Thanks John, I was happy with the way she turned out 🙂

Perhaps that's where I subconsciously got the idea from Roger, thanks for commenting 👍🙂

Yeah, saw it on KZfaq lol

Thanks Mike, it's probably a week away as I've got a couple of flying vids to edit but stay tuned 🙂

Sorry I meant Sky blue!!

That's right Ian, although I'll probably leave the underside that pale colour to save weight 🙂

Looks good though Cliff!! Well done👍😄

Looks even better with the paint I'm putting on at the moment.

Thanks Neil, they'll be a couple of radio control flying videos coming up as I've got a couple of days off, do comment on those too it is appreciated.

Thanks Mark, glad you found some of it useful 🙂

Hi John, thanks you're welcome. The Vintage Model Company in the UK is one source, but there are many. There are different grades available as well. I used to buy it from my local model shop but that was a long time ago! If you Google 'model aeroplane tissue' you'll get some ideas. You can also buy tissue from craft shops and even florists but you'll need to experiment with it to 'get a feel' for how it performs, this includes gift wrap tissue, but like I said there are many different grades, hope this helps.

Thanks Jerry, fun to do but hopefully even more fun to see in the air!

Hi Phillax31, yes, got some on order, the kit rubber is good for setting the c of g but not so good for duration (I'm told) 👍

Thank you 👍

Hi Garry, the covering on the Chipmunk was Hobby King standard covering, it's very light indeed, at least the stuff I had was! The Aeronca is a lovely little plane, never built one though.

@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Thanks Cliff.

Hi Radhey, do you mean straight from the 70's? 😁 I just used my mobile on this video 👍

Hi Benny, down the length of the wing 👍

Hi, thank you, the lacquer I used was one of the cheapest, if you look on Amazon (or anywhere really) for 'Autotek matt lacquer' that's what I used, it sprays very smoothly and lightly, you don't want much. I do know that Krylon is also very pipular. If in doubt make a little test square of balsa and tissue it, then finish it as you would your model, hope that helps 👍

@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Thank you so much. You saved me a few quid there. Love this community of modellers. Great vibes. Thanks responding so fast. Take care!

Hi Henry, it's just tissue I've had for many years, have you tried Googling? There are suppliers around 🤔👍

Hi Dan, check out this video and read the answer to Brian's question, I agree with it completely (assuming your model is the 16in version), cheers kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sLioYKpps9Cxcmw.html

Hi Mike, the dope won't add strength but will add a lot of weight, it depends how humid the air is where you live, a high humidity will cause the tissue to sag without sufficient dope so it won't fly so well, however more dope to combat this and the weight will cause it to not fly so well! Paint will add even more weight. That's why I used coloured tissue for both colours for maximum weight saving. Here's two channels to look at, the first is where you'll really learn how to build top class models by a true expert, the second illustrates how models react in a humid environment, both channels are excellent and well worth subscribing too. kzfaq.info and kzfaq.info/love/rxRTOkn7YSD4cEtkbMOOhw 👍

Hi Mike, I did it in one, the underneath was one section as was the front top, the bigger you can handle the better really. Maybe three pieces? 🤔🙂

@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Thanks, I think having bigger pieces looks nicer.

@@mikeshutts1969 It does Mike, but you can disguise the joins if you tear the tissue, the fibres blend in to an extent.

Hi The Guy, you can do it in small pieces, which is easier to manage, or bigger pieces. If you're not happy with any bits just remove them and try again, you'll get better 👍

Hi Cliff, thanks for watching. Tips for the fuselage covering ... basically do it in sections, as for what size sections it depends on your skill/confidence level, the bigger the section the quicker the job gets done. I will say though don't worry about pulling the tissue off and cutting a new piece if you mess up. Are you making it to fly or static?

Cliff Harvey RC Planes Thank you for the response. I have no experience with building one of these. I am a toolmaker so I have a lot of experience with fitting. On the question asked. Would you fit the tissue one side at a time or drape it over? Thank you for your reply. I’m looking forward to building the spitfire. I would not be here without it.

Cliff Harvey RC Planes I’m going to fly it from my ceiling. Thank you............

@@cliffholliman4487 The challenge Cliff is the fuselage doesn't just curve in one direction and the tissue will tend to crease hence why I said do it in smaller sections. The finish will be just as good once painted.

Well Irwin, thanks for the wing compliment but no compliments on the fuselage 😁 It was a bit of a challenge due to the tapering curve, it seemed to work without adhesive but as soon as it was applied things went a bit awkward, the second side (starboard) was easier because I did it in three sections, front, mid and aft and that's what I'll do in future. At least the early planes were mostly slab sided.

@@CliffHarveyRCPlanesThanks Cliff. I must admit that I have tried both ways and have gotten frustrated either way. But on large planes it doesn't seem to matter. Maybe that's why I prefer WWI models for small planes.

Hi Carroll, thank you, the lacquer I used was one of the cheapest, if you look on Amazon (or anywhere really) for 'Autotek Matt Lacquer' that's what I used, it sprays very smoothly and lightly, you don't need very much. I do know that Krylon is also very popular. If in doubt make a little test square of balsa and tissue it, then finish it as you would your model, hope that helps 👍

Hi Tobi, basically I go for the biggest piece I can fit in one go, it depends on the curves you have to go around. With the model I'm building at the moment I plan to try putting the tissue on very slightly damp, it goes around curves more easily but it takes a bit more practice, I'll post a video when it's done. 👍

Hi Brian, the tissue went on as tight as I could manage, then the water, this is what does 95% of the tightening, then the spray lacquer just seals the tissue and gives it strength, to be honest I was surprised it works as well as it did! It's a good idea Brian to do a little test square to see how it works for you. 😉

@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes so it was plain water not distilled or was it mixed with alch I have heard so many stories I used to use nitrate dope back in the day years ago then as I have found heavy as now I tried brand name plaztic dope 95%water 5% to preshrink was a night mare then applied a stronger coat but wasnt very pleased managed to do all flying surfaces ok now on fuse as my current build is a practice run before I approch the Cessna 180 which should turn out all the better for this build of the Typhoon. NB Pre shrinking for me gives wrinkles and bumps. Will be following your method on the fuse plain water distilled Ill use all I need is a better spray, garden ones way too heavy lol

@@BrianRamseysg01 Yes, just plain tap water, we have soft water here, I don't know if that makes a difference. Re the sprayer, the one I used doesn't exactly mist it on and the tissue goes quite saggy and takes a bit longer to dry but while it's wet it's very delicate.

Hi Joseph, if you put the tissue on with as few wrinkes as possible it doesn't have much shrinking to do. If you go to 8:20 on the video you can see me spraying ordinary water, (a mister bottle would be better, it wouldn't soak it as much) onto both sides of the wing then I weigh it down for a couple of hours until the tissue is try. I don't use dope, it adds to much weight, the green is just emulsion paint watered down a bit and then the whole thing is given a light dusting of matt lacquer. The tissue is model covering tissue, domestic tissue can be used but it's not as soft and pliable.

Hi Sharne, firstly fit a brand new blade this is essential really. I try not to cut tissue which is wet with water or glue until it's had a few minutes to dry, it just tears to easily, in some instances I'll pull wet tissue apart against the edge of the balsa if the tissue colour is the same, the small fibers blend in with one another.

Hi Jon, if you Google "Autotek Professional Matt Lacquer' you'll find it, it sprays very finely, just what you want on a small model lad.

Hi DD, didn't pin down but used the weights, same difference. The laquer dried in just a couple if minutes in the heat were having at the moment, because I had a little washout the trailing edge was supported and the lower surface was off the board anyway. I had a piece of polythene under it just in case it stuck though.

Well yes, but to avoid warps apart from the intended ones. LOL I am looking at tissue over 5 micron mylar for the Mr Mulligan. but having seen the lacquer result, I may change my mind. Modern products have revolutionised tissue covering.

Click the 'announcements' button on the left hand side, you should see it there Mike.

That's easy Mike ,I'm fitting a RR Merlin ha ha. No, only joking, I've lightened the tail end as much as I can and what has to be added has got to be added. For every 1g on the tail you have to add 4g on the nose so it's worth shaving off as much as possible.

Free flight for this one Morco 🙂

I just use water but you can add alcohol so it doesn't shrink as fast but water's ok, try and mist it on if you can 👍

@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes so I wanna buy one of these rubber driven plane kits for me to have fun building and my children to play with. I am aware it will get destroyed but at this price point I am fine with that. What do I need to build it that is not included in the kit, besides the glue obviously? Is it reasonable to paint is with a light coat of car rattle can colour that I have around? Did you and if yes why, decide against the fiber supplied in the kit? My apologies for the noob questions.

@@echannel1018 Noob questions are great, no problems there. You're right in so far as it'll get destroyed pretty quick 😁 Weight is the killer of a good flight so by the time you've either doped, or as I use sometimes, clear matt lacquered the tissue it's starting to get heavy, then you put paint on top of that and you're building a brick. This is why I used coloured tissue, the brown, and then painted the green on using watered down emulsion. Nothing wrong with the kit tissue as such, just that it was white. Also it's a good idea to test any paint etc in a small area first to make sure there's no funny reactions.

@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes thank you for the swift replies. Highly appreciated. Greetings from Hamburg

@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes My apologies, one more question. Do you think it is reasonable to use water only and no tensioner clear and then go with coloured paint directly? Then I can dust that on lightly and save weight