He is very good. I'll lay some even better stuff on you. You know what spent charge is mostly comprised of? Carbon. You know what one one of the best carbon solvents ever made was? Gumout (carberator cleaner spray). It blows the carbon off your whole gun. Grooves, channels, races, in between spring coils- everything. It just blows your gun clean, no Q-tips brushes, or anything. It is also fast evaporating, so your cun is cometely dry, 30 seconds after spaying it clean. Spray it all clean, spray it with rem oil, pull your snake through, wipe everything off- DONE.

@@vitodelorto1796 thanks 👍

💯

as a pizza lover, i agree.

The absolute best shooters in the world, in every single category, clean their barrels every 100-200 shots at a MINIMUM, and as little as 10-20 shots at a maximum. I think there's something to that technique that GunBlue isn't considering. Afterall, they hold world records, you, me, or GunBlue don't.

@@fluxcapacitor05 Just because everyone does it doesn’t validate the procedure.

@@fluxcapacitor05 The absolute best shooters in the world are usually sponsored by cleaning products makers to use their products. Besides, many people clean their rifle barrels too often simply because they uncritically mimic what other shooters do.

Ed Zoltay I learned something I never thought to think about. Thank you.

Every spring, you hear about an inboard motor boat going kaboom.

Thank you and God bless.

How bout that knowledge now? There's definitely an art to it I've began to notice

The absolute best shooters in the world, in every single category, clean their barrels every 100-200 shots at a MINIMUM, and as little as 10-20 shots at a maximum, using all sorts of solvents. Some like Eric Cortina even use hard cleaners like CLR. I think there's something to that technique that GunBlue isn't considering. Afterall, they hold world records, you, me, or GunBlue don't. I would be careful what you call 'snake oil'.

Mouse milk & snake oil endorsements pay for a lot of salaries though 😉

Mr42960 Exactly.

Accuracy is best maintained if you don't have copper fouling period. Fouling is CALLED "FOULING" BECAUSE ITS AN UNDESIRABLE, ABNORMAL CONDITION.

So the copper left behind is helpful towards conditioning the barrel? Should the copper EVER be removed?, or just clean the barrel as usual and if it leaves a little copper behind, that fine? I'm asking because this is something I haven't heard about from anyone. If this is like seasoning a cast iron skillet, I get it, but even after seasoning a skillet you can't use soap on the surface anymore or it washes the seasoning right off and then have to re-season if you do. help with some clarification please. Thank you GunBlue490...weapon info just keeps pouring out into these videos, and is greatly appreciated.

Definitely cutting against the flow of the popular opinion of the masses .one thing for sure is that there is much to learn and discern concerning information shared by many experts on rifles, and this video sure doesn't make things easier. I do relate to your sharing that it seems like the blue green copper buildup seems to have no end. I have heard that leaving a copper solvent soaked rag was the way to go, bit then I see a video where some experts share that you should never leave anything soaking in your barrel overnight. What did I ever get myself into. Well At least you reinforce your findings with sound logic. So the thing this video now has me contemplating is, is leaving the copper in the barrel like putting a band-aid over an infection, or is it like putting a silver filling over a tooth cavity? I guess that in the case of the silver filling going over a cavity is that the rotten part is scrapped out before they cover it up. So is there anything under the copper in the rifle barrel that will cause it to rott inside out. I'm surmizing that all the gunk that we clean out of barrels, besides the copper, could be covered up by the Copper. Like say from the first bullets that were fired before the last bullet fired through the bore, before cleaning a barrel. But we clean that stuff out to clear a pathway for the barrel to fly out unhindered by obstacles, but then again I have heard in some cases a bullet sometimes flys strainer out of a dirty rifle, back to learning and discerning.. But what causes erosion. I know the bullet passing through a barrel at a velocity of 2700 fps will displace metal in a bore, but what about divets or cavity holes in a barrel, such as I have seen pictures of, is that caused by fouling, or something else like condensation, and couldnt copper covering up rust due to condensation be like putting a band aid over a infection. I appreciate the time and effort to share the logic behind your video, and I will definitely give it a fair shake when I apply it to my rifle. Thank you.

Tom, I have a Hoppe’s #9 air freshener in my truck.

Russ Schampers me too.

Refreshing to find someone willing to genuinely pass along time tested field experience vs today’s hyper media sales whizbangery.

LOL! Thanks.

Thank you, Sir.

baugwan1 Warren Page was deeply involved with accuracy shooting and cartridge development, and contributed much to the 308 and 243 engineering. Read his book "The Accurate Rifle" by Winchester Press, long out of print. He never used JB bore paste or any of the many aggressive procedures people now employ, and abhorred the notion. Cleaning as he did it, and as I describe, is 100% effective, simple, and without any caustic compounds. He would have appreciated hammer forged barrels and their nearly hand lapped smoothness!

I spoke to a successful, competitive, long range shooter recently. Asked him what products he uses, prefers Hoppe.

Cleaning a gun is not unlike bathing. You can go 5 months without it and live, but it's not necessarily the best thing.

+WholeCosmos I learned that as an electroplater of precious metals; gold, silver, rhodium, nickel, copper, etc. making coaxial electronic connectors in the aerospace industry after high school and on my return from Vietnam. We used to rig special jigs with a wire anode down the middle of cylindrical bodies in order to deposit plating, as electrical current does not flow around corners. While I have not seen the system used by barrel manufacturers to hard chrome barrels, I presume they chrome plate bores the same way. I have read tedious articles about how some uninformed folks scrub such barrels with abrasives, which does nothing except wear through that precious plating that's intended to make the bore slippery and make undue cleaning unnecessary..

+Jim Skelton Jim, your wisdom on lubrication of machinery is well-founded. However, let me elaborate on the dissimilar nature of the beasts, and remember that my intended audience is the sport firearms shooter. While I am fully familiar with, and have great experience with machine guns, none of my comments are directed at those who expend belts of ammo from a mini-can. So, let me explain... As you know, engine parts are heated due to a combination of two factors: Internal combustion and friction. While it can be logically derived from this that firearms produce heat by the same corresponding factors, they do not. In an engine, both sources of heat are combined in one monolithic block of metal, where one feeds the other so intimately and efficiently that water and/or ambient air must flow deeply into the parts to get them cooled. Even if the engine were not firing, copious and continuous bathing of oil is necessary to prevent seizure or galling due to friction of interacting metal surfaces. An engine is described in terms of continuous service. Once started, the owner's manual imposes no time limit on its operation, except to change the oil. Now, let's examine a gun, and see how it compares. Remember that while I am speaking of non-military firearms, most of this would hold true for many of the guns associated with heavy service weapons designed for combat. The source of internal combustion in a firearm is its chamber. But unlike the cylinder of an engine that is nested inside the engine, the chamber of a firearm is disassociated from the rest of the gun. During internal ballistics of a fired cartridge, the flame is projected forward into the barrel. The chamber on the other hand, being generally the widest and/or thinnest part of a barrel, cools first. Not only is it a good heat sink, everything else; the receiver, the bolt steel, frame, and slide, even the stock and grip, dissipate heat. The barrel itself, giving off heat, is effectively radiating destructive temperatures to the atmosphere not unlike a steam radiator, and the larger the barrel mass, the more efficient it is at doing this. The effect of cooling to the larger surfaces of cold metal works in the same way that a plumber lays a damp rag over a valve to protect the nylon seats inside while he is applying extreme soldering heat to a union two inches away, or in the same manner that this computer's CPU is being cooled by fins and a fan... much like the H-D engine is. The chamber's size in proportion to the rest of the barrel is comparatively small in handguns, and miniscule in many rifles. Now, what about the destructiveness of this heat from combustion? There are two types of guns in this regard... those that self-destruct due to internal combustion, and those that don't. It is only rifles that produce high pressures above 40,000 psi that begin to impose sufficient heat, combined with pressure and if not permitted to cool properly during firing, that the metal directly in front of the chamber breaks down metallurgically over time. So, in the extreme, my M-60 machine gun would do this, if fired for too long a time, and would require a barrel change. On the other end of the extreme, and after 2,500 rounds over ten years, my Sako 270 Winchester throat began to fail. To what degree? I seated the bullets less deeply by .025" within the case in order to be near the rifling leade. But it was still accurate. If it had been a .30-06 with less chamber pressure, or even better, a 7mm X 57 Mauser, nothing would have happened yet. A prairie dog shooter, shooting his gun too frantically and without allowing it to cool, can chew a barrel of his .22-250 up in several outings. The guy who shoots 30 round mags, one after another, with his AR-15 can do likewise, perhaps mitigated for a time with a chrome-lined barrel. HOWEVER, not one whit of this is associated with any amount of lubrication, and it cannot be mitigated by oil in any part of the gun. The barrel lives or dies, at a rate corresponding to its caliber and rate of fire. Period. Does the barrel heat get into the rest of the gun's inner workings? Well, remember that it is only the immediate portion forward of the chamber that begins to flake after thousands of rounds or from firing a few too quickly. It generally is less than an inch or so in sporter guns, though in continuous-feed belted machine guns it can be half its length. The barrel beyond that, which gets really hot during firing, remains pristine, having acted like a radiator, dissipating heat. The largest part of a barrel remains so good and unaffected that many bench rest shooters simply cut off an inch of the chambers of their guns and re-thread and chamber them, until the barrel is too short to qualify in their events. However, at no point does a receiver or frame ever reach any destructive sub-molten heat level. You wouldn't be, you COULDN'T be holding it, or even within feet of it. The highest possible heat that a receiver can be handled would be on the order or 140 degrees F, which is almost 1,000 degrees below aluminum's melting point and 2,500 degrees below steel's. To reach even 140 degrees, the entire barrel would have to be many times hotter, close to it's molten point. Nobody shoots melting barrels. Even a machine gun cannot produce heat that will destroy a receiver. When the barrel was toasted, the receiver was still like new. Only one glove was needed, to remove the barrel. As for lubrication, we never applied more than a few drops of light oil to the sliding parts of machine gun bolt, and there was no reason to apply it to anything else, lest it turn to caked mud before we got a mile down a dirt road riding on the hood of our M151A1 jeeps. We wiped a light coat of oil on exposed surfaces, and wiped it off. That was good for my M-16, and M-60, and it's more than sufficient for my personal guns, and yours. Can you destroy a gun with friction? No. At least, not a well-made firearm. If you know anyone who can fire a gun so fast and long that they can reduce good, hardened gun steel to a perishable state, let me know, and I'll publish a warning about that brand. Firearm lubrication has one function only. It's to break the surface tension of the two interacting parts, which is accomplished with the single drop of simple oil that comes in a gun oil bottle filled with medium grade mineral oil, as I have done all my life. I hope this explanation helps.

GunBlue490 Thanks for that detailed explanation. In truth, I can become too verbose when writing and go off down roads never meant to be traveled. How I veered onto the Harley thing is anyones guess. What I wanted to express, and all I wanted to express, is my conviction that synthetic lubes work better than petro ones no matter what the application. I still believe that unless it can be proven to me with lab tests that I am incorrect.Your depth of knowledge is astounding. I'll be following your work from now on and look forward to whatever you next post up. I'd love to hear your take on the 22TCM round and the 1911's from Rock Island Armory (division of Armscor) that are purpose built to fire them. Disclosure: Yep, I own one of the full size, single stack, 22TCM / 9mm, tactical versions of these pistols. That 22TCM is a HOOT to shoot and the ballistics are off the charts!

Jim Skelton The .223 Remington/5.56x40 NATO case has had countless wildcat design adaptations over the years; necking up, down, shortened, for just as many reasons, from silhouette shooting to varminting, and from rifles to handguns. It was itself a modified .222 Remington Magnum, which was itself, back in the 60's, a respectable step up from its daddy, and the King of them all, the venerable .222 Remington, which has so unfortunately been forgotten, owing to the vast number of .223's and 5.56 NATOs produced in the world. It's an exceptionally good base from which to work, if one desires to play with brass, as one can't possibly miss. No cartridge based on it has ever been less than accurate, given the correct sizing of barrel to powder ratio. The very first shortened version, ideally suited for a 10" barrel, was Remington's own proprietary .221 Fireball, introduced with their XP-100 bolt action pistol, based on the 600 Remington rifle action. This commercial shortening of cartridge to match yet a shorter 1911 barrel seems to have taken a longer time than one would have expected! Others have played with similar wildcats, but the great problem has always been the need for handloaders to make their own custom wildcat brass for their custom wildcat guns. Cartridge acceptance and success runs a good deal less than restaurant success. It's a huge leap of faith and a monstrous financial risk for any company to put money down on a new cartridge offering, especially when it's tied to a gun, and it's an even greater risk to buy what might very well be a maverick gun that goes the way of the Dodo. In particular, bottle-necked .22 wildcats have had a very dismal acceptance, and have stranded many owners with fine guns for which they could get no ammo. Having said that, Armscor may have hit on something here, and it may catch fire. But having said that, I won't be putting my money down until it has been a Top Ten seller for ten years. How about the round? Excellent. Ballistics are in the varmint hunting category at close to 2,100, exactly what I'd expect from that combination, though the bullet Armscor is using is, I suspect from its terminal performance, a heavier jacketed bullet than one would find on the shelves. If that is so, that's good from a performance standpoint, but bad from an availability one. I could be wrong. Often, varmint bullets react like heavier hunting bullets at velocities lower than their design parameters, so it could simply be a standard 40 grain .224 bullet. In terms of practicality, I'm not so sure it has the potential to rise above the curiosity class. It's very light 7 pound recoil spring means that my wife would be able to draw the slide back... something she cannot do with my 1911 45 ACP. But having said that, it's not exactly the size pistol that she'd have the least inclination to pack in her handbag. Or elsewhere. So, it's not a ladies gun. The 17 + 1 capacity is interesting, but whatever does one need to tote a double wide gun on one's belt when it boasts near rifle effectiveness? I'd welcome a reduction in size of my carry 1911, not an increase. A flat mag standard 1911 width version would be more appealing to me. It's flat shooting, but that has never been a criteria for combat handguns. Great range potential in a handgun has very limited practical application, especially when the accuracy doesn't meet the demands that a long shot requires. Reports of about 2-3 inches at 25 yards is standard 25 yard 1911 accuracy, but 8 to 12 MOA will incite a lot of yawning for the 150 yard crowd, where the ballistics carry it. Bottle-neck pistol cartridges, notably the .357 Sig, are found to be prone to bullet setback in the case after repeated cycling from a magazine, at which point the case neck completely loses its grip and the bullet drops in, dangerously raising pressures. Most 1911s are best allowed to slap home with a new round to assure that the slide is in battery, which is not conducive to mitigating this problem. As to the gun itself, Armscor makes a very decent gun, though quite far down the ladder in terms of fit and finish compared to say, a Colt or Ruger 1911, and more closely akin to a British WWII Webley, so it won't attract whistles from the tenth floor. Over the years, there have been many niche guns, aimed at a particular market, and I'd call this a "deep niche" gun, with a market that Armscor has apparently identified, which may be larger than I'm aware of. The fact that you're enjoying it means they discovered you. ;-)

Thank you for watching from your beautiful country!

My dad used WD-40. Lol

Pretty sure Hoppes contains ammonia?

@@reveriesimplex648 That is why the patches until they come out dry and clean.

I am a former Class A rated electroplater, quite familiar with bright, soft, and electroless nickel plating and other precious metals, too, including gold, silver, rhodium, and cadmium. Yes, copper is indeed flash plated onto the base metal, which is a universal bonding metal for all other plating, as one uses paint primers to for paint adhesion. We commonly stripped plating that we had performed for various reasons, and used a number of acids, combined with tumbling, to remove plating. Though we did not use ammonia, there being many more ideally suited to the task, it does indeed attack copper. The nickel itself is resistant to most chemicals, but the problem lies with areas vulnerable to being thinly plated, such as sharp edges, as with the crown edge of the throat, cylinder edges, etc. Plating is deposited by electrolysis, as metals in solution travel from the anode to the cathode (the item). Metals deposit uniformly only when the electrons bombard at a 90 degree angle to a flat surface and somewhat less uniformly to rounded parts. Any parts that are off perpendicular to the anode positions at the side of the tank receive less of a bombardment, not much different than our sun's rays when it is low in the sky, and those areas in the "shade" receive nothing. Think of how spray paint deposits on objects unless the nozzle is directed to each surface. I have not seen the manner by which handguns are suspended in nickel salt tanks, but it's almost assuredly from copper wires and plating hooks hung on a reciprocating cathode bar, just as we precision plated coaxial cable connectors. Plating is vulnerable at any number of those thinner locations on the complex surfaces of a handgun, and though the plating is very durable, it should be treated with regard to that vulnerability. As with any gun regardless of type, whether it has plating or not, I recommend the use of plain mineral spirits or paint thinner to clean your gun. Do not use any gun solvent that may contain any amount of ammonia. As a caution, most common gun solvents, including Hoppe's, contain ammonia in various strengths for the purpose of removing copper, and I would avoid them on a plated gun.

Rick Mansberger Both are essentially the same invention called Stoddard solvent. Paint thinner is considered a slighly more refined version, which is of interest to painters, but has no relevance to their basic formulation that will clean and degrease equally well. Paint thinner traditionally says mineral spirits on the bottle, and vice versa. Use whichever you prefer. I like the new green stuff for all the reasons I stated; smells less, non volatile, and I suspect it works possibly even more swiftly than the former stuff, from my non-critical evaluation.