1" SHD40 pipe will be next....

Appreciated! He is one of the very few people who truly inspired me to become the person I am. An amazing man.

And wearing gloves!! The horrors! :)

Many sway bars are made out of basically spring steel. If a file will cut it, it might just be normal steel.. If you cannot "cold bend" it, you can heat and bend it, but if it is a spring steel just let it cool in air, do not quench it or you might make it brittle and it might fracture in use. You could quench mild steel and it might be a tiny bit harder, but at least you won't make it brittle.

Some believe in doing it all with spring and no bars, but by the time you have enough roll resistance, bumps really upset the car. I believe in relatively soft spring so you don't upset the car, and get the balance you want with bars.

@@GregWellwood am going to build a 3/4 sway bar see how it behaves on track.

That would be this one: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hq2inq2V1ZvOm58.html

It's a "torsion beam" axle - it _twists_. The bar reduces some of the twist. On any other suspension, this wouldn't work.

But it DOES work. You should see the torsion beam axle twist by itself! It's adding to the beam. It works.

@@GregWellwood it may feel more predictable to tie both sides together but its not an anti roll bar. thats not how sway bars/anti roll bars work at all

It appears to "anti" the amount of "roll" the chassis is getting, by limiting the "independent" movement of the rear suspension. You're going to need to give me a thorough explanation of what you believe, and not just an "Oh no it doesn't!"

@@GregWellwood anti roll bars work thru articulating load transfer not by means of limiting suspension movement NOT with a solid piece of metal. what youre doing is as good as replacing a shock with a rod to stiffen up the suspension. your bar is not mounted to the chassis to be able to transfer load the way an actual stabilizer bar transfers load. kind of like changing shocks to solid rods, sure it kind of works but lets see you drive over a bump on one side where the distance from the mounting points of your pretty bar are now 6" apart and something will get ripped out. now if you had a stablizer bar that mounted to the chassis to endlinks/droplinks than you woulda been ok. solid works for leaf springs not for stabilizer bars

my first comment literally describes how an antiroll bar works. if you change the side mounting brackets to connect to an end link or drop link and weld a mounting tab on each side of the axle then use some bushings and brackets to mount the bar to the chassis than it will be an anti roll bar. for now its pretty style bar that very well could be a road hazard to whoever may be driving behind you

If you heated it and let it cool slowly, you've annealed it (softened it) - even Mild Steel can be slightly annealed. As you cold bend it, you're also work-hardening it, which would make it harder. In theory you could heat-bend it, then quench the bend in water or oil - Mild steel won't fracture by doing that, so it's low risk and would put some of the hardness back in.