@RAR Knives and Leatherwork Thanks, Rob! As much as I like my jazzed up version of the slitty BM#2 modified burner I remain concerned that the rust will eat it's way back through from the inside even though I used brass screening/packing. (Condensation between fires I reckon.) I try to use it as often as I can, while I still can. 👍 BD

Thanks! BD

Thanks! BD

@Joaquin -Jack Nava Thanks Jack, you too! BD

Thanks! We use this stove on rotation for that purpose. Fits nice in the surplus "Military Army Surplus Czech Waterproof Rubberized Shoulder Bag" that you can find on eBay with those search terms. The BM#2 original (unmodified) with it's one-speed roarer burner stays at home. BD

Thanks for watching! BD

@Ahmed Abdelbary Thank you kindly. BD

@Charles Aec Thank you! I've found several videos on KZfaq that feature these stoves with this burner, but they most all demonstrate how badly the burner can run when used beyond its life and not repaired and/or modified. The steel mesh in the burner head is a burner killer for sure. Here's one example of a stove video that shows issues and why auto gasoline should be avoided - no shade to the owner/KZfaqr - it's actually one of the better performing BM#2 modifieds on KZfaq. (Toward the end you can hear that the burner is also experiencing vaporization surging.) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j6yUodyGscWdZ2w.html BD

@Cameron Lewington Thanks, Cam! I'm going to have to switch back to some instructional videos on stove basics for the next 2-3, so hang in there for more stove demo/expositions later this season. Stay safe, stay healthy! 👍 BD

@@BernieDawgCinema thanks Gary, do you remember upgrading my nova spigot for a steel one before it broke( holding well btw) I’ve sourced another early nova, can I send it to you for same treatment please? Rgds.. Cam

@Cameron Lewington Sure, Cam. Those are actually stainless steel studs, fwiw. Just drop a note to the bd@berniedawg.com address to get the job started. 😎 BD

Thanks! 👍 BD

@Алексей Кулешов Спасибо! Ваша плита, kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oJ-Inblqyrbaf40.html, нуждается в помощи или лучше научитесь ей управлять. Должно выглядеть так: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qeBnmciIs53SqKs.html Нужны навыки пользователя, я подозреваю. 🇺🇸🇺🇦 BD

@Sam Whitehead Thanks for watching! I don't think the #2 Modified burner will burn kerosene. Kerosene is much less volatile and wouldn't vaporize in the built-for-petrol #2 Modified burner. If you are thinking you like the quietness of the #2 Modified, there are already after market silent damper caps available that let you achieve all the power of the #12 with little of the noise inherent on the #12. shpws.me/SnJj BD

@Bez stopy Thank you! You are a much better videographer/producer than I. People who like my videos may also enjoy your videos: kzfaq.infovideos Very pretty and you have a drone! 🙂 If you are thinking about a Svea 123R, be sure to get a used vintage stove and refurbish it. The ones sold currently by Optimus are coming out of Taiwan and there are numerous reports concerning issues and lesser build quality. Similar stoves are the Primus 71 and Optimus 80. Or, based on your geographic location, you may want to look at a Juwel 34 or a Russian PT-2 - again similar. These sort of white gas (naphtha) fueled stoves will tend to do better in your snowy cold conditions than isobutane canister stoves like the MSR Pocket Rocket I saw in use in one of your videos. Most all vintage stoves will outlive you with reasonable care - I think that says a lot about how usable they remain after all these years compared to modern stoves which come and go. Check my rebuilding instructional videos for how to renovate a vintage stove. BD

@@BernieDawgCinema Thanks I will watch renovation videos. Its a shame about new Svea faults. And that butane stove You have seen its chinese knockoff of MSR they just made it lighter and a bit worse. Valve got broke and no repair kit for it existed. I swaped it for Japanese Soto Amicus, it works great, even in wind. But looks of old stove theres nothing like it, but it will take some time until I will get some. Over here we have own Meva company which was producing nice stoves but only Propane stoves transitioned into new products, petrol was forgotten. I will watch and reason with myself about beeing able to repair old stove. :) thanks.

@martinlacey4575 No. There is no "screw to take the burner off to de coke it clean the carbon out holes". You may want to rewatch the video - the WHOLE video. As I show in the video, I completely disassembled the burner head by heating it with a torch until the brazing metal melted and the brazed parts could be pulled apart. I also drilled out the center spigot tube which gave me full access to the interior of the burner head. I rebuilt the feed tubes and silver brazed the whole assembly back together. All of that should be obvious with an attentive rewatch of the video if you pay close attention. It's probably beyond the ability of most stove restorers to do this sort of work - too many skills needed in this modern day. BD

@M Silvius No direct written documents or tutorials of which I'm aware. Here are some of my most basic thoughts. I think it might be more art than science in most cases - at least for me. That said, I also think it requires an understanding of how fluid flow and fuel/air vapor mixtures work together in burner design to obtain as close to a stoichiometric flame as possible. I tend to use trial and error based on experience and knowledge rather than mathematics or calculations. (Handbuilding/designing hundreds of silent damper caps helps.) If a flame has yellow in it, then it has too much fuel vapor compared to air in the mix (rich). If the flame is thin blue and wispy, then it has too much air compared to the fuel vapor in the mix (lean). So, in the case of the BM#2 modified burner in this video, the yellow flame could most "easily" be addressed in the following ways without influencing the output of the burner: 1. increase the distance between the jet and the spigot tube opening which allows the fuel vapor stream coming from the jet to draw more air into the mix 2. increase the diameter of the spigot tube which allows the fuel vapor stream coming from the jet to draw more air into the mix Obviously, there are upper limits to these two methods. Too far away from the jet and the vapor stream will lose too much velocity and will have spread out too much to go up inside the spigot tube. The diameter of the spigot tube was constrained by the two feed tubes to the burner - I could only make the new spigot tube just so big before it banged into the feed tubes. (I would have preferred a bit bigger.) Also, if the new feed tubes were too long, then the top of the burner head would not allow the lid of the stove to close. So, the "math" involved here was based on the maximum diameter of the spigot tube which would fit into the burner head between the feed tubes, and the height of the new feed tubes that would keep the lid from banging into the burner and still provide a suitable flame distance from the cooking vessel. Some might say that another option to get a more stoichiometric flame from this burner would be to reduce the jet orifice size. While it is true that this would reduce the amount of fuel vapor to the burner thus making the mix more stoichiometric, the resulting lower velocity and lower volume of fuel vapor would reduce the air drawn into the burner head and create lower pressures inside the burner head resulting in weak flames emerging from the slits in the burner. This would likely cause the flamelets to fall inside the outer cap and ignite internally as underburn. Plus, of course, it depowers the burner and makes it have less output. Less fuel vapor = less flammage. I could rattle on for a good bit longer but fear that most KZfaq watchers have already clicked elsewhere by now. Feel free to use the email address I provide in the description box below the video if you'd like to ply me with more or more specific questions about all this. 😁😎👍 BD

@@BernieDawgCinema Wow!! Thanks for taking the time to post such a detailed write up to answer my question. Way more than I ever expected. I really do appreciate the effort. So many variables at play here, any one of which has domino effect down the line. Don't know if it is even realistic, but it might be subject matter for a whole series of interesting videos.

@M Silvius Well, thanks for your suggestion for a video series on stove and burner and fuel theory. I'm thinking that most KZfaq video watchers don't much appreciate long-winded pedantic discourse by a talking head. My most popular videos are the ones that actually show you how to do a thing or repair a thing - especially when fire is involved. 😉 My "theory" videos get the least views. I'd also suggest that I gave you a bunch of information and perspectives in my reply above that could be an excellent springboard for you to do further research and education on the subject on your own. I show videos like the one above on my changes to the BM#2 modified stove in order to illustrate techniques and to inspire others to step out of their comfort zones and go try stuff on their own. Perhaps in that spirit you could try to research these subjects on your own now that I've given you a substantial starting point. Good luck and remember I'm only an email away. BD

@twancol There is a sticker on the case that says "manufactured in 1992". BD

@Andre Olsen I confess I have a small pile of my own collection that is awaiting inspiration or a sudden flash of insight on how to proceed. It sometimes can take me months of thinking on a repair or modification before a viable solution will occur to me. (Slow thinker, I guess.) 😄 BD

@@BernieDawgCinema then I cant wait to see what you figure out next 😀

Fuel source

@scottperry30 Use naphtha, aka Coleman camp stove fuel, aka Crown camping appliance fuel, aka MSR Superfuel, aka Aspen 4T, etc. DON'T use unleaded petrol like goes in cars as auto fuel has become so full of unburnable additives (at stove operating temperatures) you'll just make a mess of your vintage military stove and probably wreck it with fouling in the inaccessible burner head. Fixed a bunch that were wrecked in this way. There's no such thing as a free lunch. It'll cost you a lot more to run one of these stoves than to just use a modern propane stove, so, if cheap is what you are after, this ain't it. BD

@@BernieDawgCinema cheers looking. Forward to actually using this stove