Once I crash the renishaw tool setter, and I spent the rest of the day trying to remember how to set the offsets manually, nice video.

Hi community! I'm in the Industrial Technician school in Denmark, I'm using a VF2 and we measure the tool offset with a digital setter as in the video. We have a G154 P99 programable offset, so ass soon as that red light goes on, we press "tool offset measure". This save us to compensate any extra, but is important to remember to run the compensation in MDI before offsetting the tools. Thanks for the video Mark, as always!

Everyone at my work uses fancy tool setters, I’m working on making one, I’m just glad I’m Not the only one that uses a 1,2,3 block for touching tools off. Newer people look at me like I’m crazy, I learned that trick from my old boss who has been running CNCs since the day you had to punch your code on paper. At my shop we use tool setters and probes, but occasionally on older machines I use 123 blocks on the vice

Man, I seriously needed this video. I’ve been trying to figure out how to utilize the gainer gauge to set workpiece heights, and was just in a mental block. Perfect timing, great video!

When I was first learning CNC, I was taught to touch off all tools using a paper shim to the top of the work piece stock. If ANYTHING changed, youd have to touch off all the tools again. When I got my first job as a machinist, we were taught to touch off all tools to the table, which is a common datum plane, which makes WAY more sense, using a 2x4x6 block and a half inch dowel pin. This keeps the spindle pretty far from the table, which can prevent bumps to tall items such as rotary axes. Jog the tool down near the block, slide it under, then jog the tool away from the pin till it clears. Then subtract 6.5" from the length. The tool length is now set as the distance from Z home to the table. Work Z offset was the distance to the table to the top of the finished work piece. Taller parallels? Just raise your Z offset.

We use a pretty cheap tool probe and set all the tools to the top of it. We don't subtract to get us to the table. The we then touch off our part with our haimer stored as a tool. When we touch off we hit part measure and then we add the tool offset value for the haimer.

This was the best video ever. I totally needed this exact information. Thanks Mark!

I love using the Renishaw probe! I keep extra batteries

Thanks for the video Mark! This explains a lot! I have been a lathe guy for over 15 years and our shop got our first VMC a few months back. I was wondering about a few things like this and you made it very clear for me. Cheers mate!

Oh my golly, I understand everything this video explained. I know so much more about setting tool offsets but I know this information can't be shared due to how we set tools in our shop. It's so interesting how something so simple can be extremely complex in the different way we touch tools off

very helpful distance to go trick!

MOM, THERES A NEW T.O.D

Mark, as always excellent video. I have a 2003 Mini Mill and I used the paper shim method for 20 years, but as someone pointed out below - you had to redo every tool height when you changed to a new part. I needed to do something to cut down on my tool setup time, so a couple of years ago I got a Heimer and a 2" high tool height gauge (like the 4" one in you video). Typically I don't have access to the bed of the mill, so I put the tool height gauge on to the body of the vise installed and set all of the tools to it including the Heimer (The tool offsets go in the location for the respective tool and I usually put the Heimer height at tool location 20 since I only have a 10 piece tool holder). When I put in the material to cut, I use the heimer to get the Z height of the material and put that in tool offset location 21 (or 22,23, ... if there are multiple heights) . The I just subtract the part height from the Heimer reference height - so for my first part height in G54 I use: tool offset 20 - tool offset 21 = my G54 Z offset. For the next part height ( if there is one) it would be tool offset 20 - tool offset 22 = G55 Z offset. This way all of my tools are already set to my Heimer reference height and when I need to machine a different part - I just measure the new material height with my Heimer and put that number in tool offset 21 then subtract it from my Heimer reference height (tool 20) and put the result in the Z offset for G54. It saves me so much time.

Merry Christmas from AK, my first machine “TM-0P” will be here the day after Christmas and I definitely feel my learning curve will be much shallower thanks to all of HAAS’s great tutorials. I ordered a prob but have been eating up all the videos I can on work and tool offsets so I know the process behind it all. Thanks again.

I clearly need to step up my Z offset game. Thanks for the tips!

On all my machines that don't have a tool probe, I like to keep one work offset dedicated to tool touch offs. I use G129, which is set 3" above the table or sub-plate (depending on the machine). When the operators need to manually touch off tools, they simply execute the "Tool Touch Off" program and it moves to G129 X0. Y0. (a clear XY space on the table). Then they just have to jog the tool down and touch the tool off using a 1-2-3 block on the 3" side and hit "Tool Offset Measure." It eliminates the step of having to subtract 3" after the touch off. Very easy procedure to train and very repeatable. It's worth noting that my processes are set up for "machine operators" rather than actual Machinists. Simplification is always a good thing though, no matter the skill level.

We use multiple methods, but for when they use the paper method, I have provided all my machinists with small 1"X 2" pieces of 0.001" thick stainless shim stock. These are cheap and east to make, and can be cut with regular scissors. They don't fall apart when when wet and they are a reliable thickness and reusable many times. You're pretty much right on zero when that shim stops moving under the tool.

Thanks for the video Mark.This was the best video.

Super amazing 👏, you're a very good teacher ,thanks very much, very educational videos.

Our shop uses the 3" side of a 1-2-3 block as our standard. I personally use the style of tooling light you showed on top of a 1-2-3 block on its 1" face as it's a lot harder to chip a cutting edge than if you use the 1-2-3 block itself.

Mark Thank you for the instructional video.

In my shop when dealing with raw stock we touch off our first tool typically a shell mill with a gage block. Subtract the difference along with an additional .03 of stock. Then we touch off all other subsequent tools and use negative z offsets in our tool offsets, leaving our work piece offsets as Z0 . When we are working on further operations we tough off the bottom of our fixture or jaws with a gage block and subtract the different and add in the height of the part based on where it is being held onto by the touch off point of the fixture. Still leaving works peice offset Z0.

I bring the tool down until it hits a piece of . oo1 metal shim stock. Works great. I do manual machining.

I had no idea about the distance to go zero trick. Here I was using a calculator! xD

I love my Edge Technologies height setter, i use it every day on the VF6 and guard it with my life!

Great video 👍

O man, cant wait to use the mem button tomorrow. I always just use a calculator and the origin button on the operator position. I use the same haimer indicator, and same techniks tool setter. On super fine height work (engraver) i will use a beater gage block and still use the work surface as the reference and jog down and check each .0001 increment. I was curious how to use a positive number for tool length when using tools between machines, we have a vf2 and vf3, never thought to use the positive gage length to the table in the tool wear column, i never use it and totally forgot its there. Best haas tip of the day!!!

For tool length compensation, another method is to set the WCS Z from spindle nose gauge line to workpiece top(like G54 Z = -22.5),then your tool length number is positive(from tool holder gauge line to the tip), it's physically the tool length,you can use the length any other machine.

Great video. 👍 I eyeball the z offset most of the time . 😊 And xy offsets with the wobble shaft 10mm

I've often used a gauge pin similar to how you used the 123 block. Jog the tool to an obviously lower position than the pin diameter, keep the pin against the tool as you slowly jog z up. When the pin rolls under, you have your position.

Epic video 🥰

i usually jog down the tool until it breaks.

I use the Edge Technology 4" Tool Setter on the body of my fixed jaw. Then I come in with a Haimer probe and measure the Z distance between the top of the fixed jaw and the workpiece. Since all my tools are set to 4 inches above the vise, I reduce the chance of a crash if a Z offset is missed since most of my parts are shorter than 4 inches. After a dry run and when I'm ready to take a cut, I subtract 4 inches from the Z offset my Haimer probe picked up and I'm good to go.

I use a Haimer 3D probe and a tool setter with indicator and precision surface like the first one shown in the video. I simply zero the Haimer on the tool setter reference surface, and store that as in work offset G110. I did this once, months ago. You also need to set relative tool length measure on, I don’t remember which setting number this is or if this is by default (I have an ‘06 mini mill). To measure a tool length, first do G110 in MDI (I have a label on the tool setter to remind me) Then you touch the tool on the setter and hit tool length measure. To set part a zero, just zero the Haimer on the part, hit part zero. And done. No typing numbers other than G110 in MDI. This means that frequent operations require zero thought, and less frequent ones require just slightly more thought, but never manual number entry.

I use the Renishaw probe and tool setter. It's awesome! I used to use the piece of paper on top of the part method.

Nice information

I made my own tool setter like the ones illustrated here close to 20 years ago.. and it works better than any store bought setter I've used. My method is almost identical to this video, but instead of dropping each tool by entering -2.000 (in the case of this video) I just drop all of the tools simultaneously using the Z column on G54 work offset. We also use the same column to drop the tools an additional .01 or so, so there is stock to face off. I also machined and ground a standoff I use in tandem with the tool setter, so I can come back to the exact same spot every time I need to swap out tools. The standoff stays on the machine. I use an empty work offset (G59 etc.) to make it easier to get there.

could you do a video on positive offsets sir mark?

I set mine on a 5 inch block I made. First my edgefinder which stays in the machine as my g154 p130 z offset since I do not use that offset for anything else. Then I set each tool to my block. Now all my tools are touched of together. All I got to do is set my actual workoffset z with my edgefinder lije g54 usually to the stock top. If I break a tool I have a common standard to set them at if the part is in process

we use either laser sensor in the machine or an optical presetter to set the tool lengths (spindle face is zero). Then we use the 3d touchprobe to touch off the part. done.

We use tool probes mostly if our machines have them

On our Doosan, I just the renishaw spindle and tool probe to set everything. That’s why we spent the money on it.

I personally like using a broken carbide end mill and touch off on the solid back end of a vice. After that adjust my G54 or the like. A close second is touching off at the very top of my parallels.

My face when I find out even Haas uses the exact same analog 3D sensor I literally had to beg for at my last machining workplace 😅 returned for summer job after first year of university and find out they had pretty much completely switched over to that type 😄

Set your retract plane your tool setter height or a "check it with a 1 2 3 block dimension" off your top of stock or z 0 depending on which clears. This allows you to easily spot check your tool lengths when providing out a program

i just always use the same tool presetter and don't substract its height... as long as i always use the same reference it work 100% of the time!

We have tool setters that we use, but on one of our machines, we have a fancy laser measuring system. When you load a new tool, it measures length and diameter of the tool.

I have a renishaw tool probe and spindle probe, I have the spindle probe zeroed at the tool probe face and use a master tool calibrated to the tool probe, it compares the offsets saved to set both my tools and my part, if ever I have an electronic issue I use a big daishowa base master as a backup. Love the way my renishaws do business

I was taught to use the back of a broken half inch endmill to touch off manually. (I’ve found it’s a lot harder to chip your tools.) For setting work offsets I just use a tool that’s already been touched off the table. (As you have shown this is a large negative number.) When touching off the top of my part with the 1/2 inch pin I hit part zero set (this will give you a large negative number in your work offset page) then type in the large negative tool length but positive. This will give you the distance from the table to the top of your part. This is why I hate that y’all split the work and tool offset tables on the next gen control. I now have to go back to tool offsets check my length then go back to work and type it in. I hope this makes sense.

Im a solo programmer/operator trying to learn my way around a Vf9, I set my tools to a 2" gauge block off the table, but take that 2" off the work offset. I can see how this would save time with multiple pieces on the table.

I take this a step farther. I set a WPC Z offset for my tool touch-off indicator relative to the face of the spindle(not the lugs) and G53 machine Z position. I activate this WPC(ussually G59, via mdi) before setting tool offsets. A bonus is that I have a reference to visually verify the length of the tool with a tape measure. Using this, I also use known tool lengths, or the face of the spindle only to set WPC Z0 at finish faces of all workpieces, yes you must subtract the tool length or gage, or paper... (bonus... when Z position is at G53 Z0 position, I also can visually check WPC Z0 with a tape measure, reference the WPC Z offset. Another way to set the tool length is to use a gage pin or block instead of the 1-2-3 block. I prefer rolling a gage pin under the tool as I raise the tool in Z.

We used a surface plate with a hole for instrument cone. Then we put a tool on the surface plate, cone in the hole. And then we measure height of endmill using height gauge. A bit strange, not precise (+/- 0.1 mm) and error prone method. It works but not convenient and not precise.

good friend made a custom macro for a 50mm toolsetter for me, simply run down to 0 on the setter and the marcro does the maths from knowing the 50mm setter height and the spindle nose to table height. Doing it this way avoids any manual calculation or entry mistakes plus ends up with a positive tool length number in the tool offset table that equals the length of the tool from the spindle nose which is great for being able to put a ruler next to the tool for a quick check.

So I used to do Tool Length Offsets like this. Then I realized a much better way to do it. Some machines like the Mori Seiki I run have this feature built in. First you need to know the Spindle Face/Nose to the table distance. This distance will be a very large negative number. That is your total stroke length on in the Z axis. With this number in mind. perform a similar action, but for a tool in the spindle. Either perform a simple calculation of the difference or that value, or perhaps activate a work offset with this absolute stroke length as your work offset. Either way, the ultimate function of this procedure is to obtain a *positive* tool length since they're are no negative lengths. Having a large negative number for the TL offset and a small positive number in the Work Offsets does work still.

I zero on the tool setters edge and set my haimer as T0 Z0 on my Siemens G500 (like extended G54 offset). All tools are then offsetted from that. If I break a tool mid run, I thrown out my tool setter again on the table and re-measure new tool.

All Z offsets are relative to the point of reference whether it is a table, precision gage, tool probe. Once the point of reference is changed then all Z offsets must be touched off to the new point of reference (if you intend to avoid a crash). Being able to comprehend makes the utilization of offsets less intimidating. I've had to place fixture offsets that are off the table (out of travel range) through the use of a point of reference.

thank you for all the great videos. they are very helpful. can you please put a link to where we can get the tool setters? i can find most of it but the one i'm looking for is your 2" presetter. thank you

We use a tool setter on the table and have the bottom of our vices offset written down and simply add the height of the parallels and part and then set that as the part offset

The paper method is the best/ technology that’s out there

Наконец то дождался!

Program of the front finished surface , use work offset to move off the bottom of work piece surface being held

You probably should have mentioned Setting 64 in this context. It could be essential when using this method if you are in the wrong work offset

Thanks Mark, any hope you could show us the same on a lathe?

I really like this video. I would personally just make a fixture to use a heigth gage and set the tool lengths to positive. Then bring any tool to the work hit part zero set and subtract the tool lenght from the work offset. Then you always know how long your tools actually are.

Can you talk about and explain workshifts

Mark, we love your videos. I love showing them in my CAM courses at our local college. What software do you guys use to create these videos? Phil

If I have to set my tools manually, I'll use any of the methods provided but I dont bother with the tool height offset to the table. Just set your work piece "z" as the difference from the top of your tool gage surface to your work piece Z zero. Saves you a step and I think it's more accurate.

The probe on my Haas has certainly spoiled me, but they EAT batteries so there you are stuck without replacemets. Part set works easy enough on X&Y with a edge finder but Z is a little trickier. Good to remember the old ways before probes

Is it possible to run a custom Macro when the Tool Offset Button is trigger. Because we could read the current machine position and set the Z tool-offset like we want. Normally, if you have an external tool setter, the tool lenght is all the time positive from the spindle nose contact. If you have one method for manual lenght offset and an other one when you use tool-setter big crash can be expected. Also wear Z-offset is normally to adapt for mismatch, so small amount, not 2".

same method basically g54 as work offset g59 as zeroing offset 50mm tool for zero similar to the second showed touch at 0 z enter c, +50 enter (fanuc mynx750)

Why take the 2" out to get to the table? Just put the work offset from tool touch gauge to part Z zero....done.

cooooooooooooool

Why wouldn’t you probe to the top of a 2in block first and set z in g54 then set your tool heights from the 2in tool setter? Since 9/10 times youll be using that same probe to set your wcs, could save you the step and potential error of entering -2.0 every tool, you dont want to see what happens when you miss that minus sign!!

This would be a lifesaver if my tool probe died.

tool probe using g43 for positive tool offsets vs negative.

Could just use the tool setter height. Then on the last tool touched set the operator page z to zero then jog to the top of the work piece and put the z value from your operator page reading in your G54 z. Done then if you want to say face the stock just drop your G54 z say -0.01" and all the tools will be dropped by the 0.01".

You calibrate height gauges by turning them upside down and pressing them down on a mill table. Lot better solution then gauge pins or 1-2-3 blocks.

I'm taking classes for milling and forgot to offset when I changed the direction to ccw.(day 4 of class) needless to say it blew the mill apart. I asked to have the teacher double check and he told me "you know what to do". Hope he don't fail me

I use a 1,2,3 block, then I touch the tip of my nose and stand on one foot. I hit tool offset measure, then after that I go into the tool offset page, subtract the diameter of the earth, hit the F1 button then I have all the information I need.

👍🏻

I use broken endmill Ф6 (mm) turned upside down in short Weldon. It's lenght is always 0 . With "zero tool" i touch the top of the precision made block 30mm and save offset in G59. For masuring of all tools i call the tool, and then call G0 G59 in MDI, and touch the top of the same 30mm block. Tools are almost always, longer than "zero tool". Same "zero tool" i use to get Z point for all workpieces, using steel ribbon 0.1mm thick, and then substract 0.1 of offset lenght to match "zero tool" with surface of the workpiece (My English is bad, i know)

I am following this exactly on a 2007 VF2, Why do I alarm out when I use a POSITIVE number in G54 "z offset" - Alarm #318 , Over Z travel range? my tool offsets are negative (-16 or so) distance between the table where I zero'd tools and top of work is 7.0" any suggestions or am I missing a setting somewhere?

Hey guy where to buy the 1st tool Mark using?

Dear mark, I am a Haas engineer from the the Netherlands, how can we use an external tool presetter and these measure methodes, can you send me some tips? Keep up the good work you do!

i use a carbon paper to touch off my tools. the carbon paper is exactly 0.03mm of thickness. i place the paper on the face where i need to touch my tool and jog and tool on paper in 0.01 increments and while i keep sliding my carbon paper and at a point the paper wont slide and it ll stop, i ll take that point as my tool offset.

Do you even have to subtract 2 inches for the touch off tool cant you just zero on top of the touch of tool and then go to work piece. saves subtracting the 2 inch on every tool right? just if u replace a tool, set new tool on tool setter and dont subtract 2 inches?

I have a question. Why doesn't Haas do like Fadal? It ask for the height of your gage. Already add in.

Hi Mr. Terryberry, When you have let's say 20 identical parts ( G54 - G154 P14 ) with different heights on fixtures and you want to do a test RUN 4" above the parts, how do you do that. We have other controls like Fanuc/Mitsubishi which have an EXT(60) in the G54_table where we can add a XYZ value. When I input a + Z4. on the EXT(60) ALL Z-levels going up by 4" for a safe check RUN. We have a Haas ST25Y Next-Gen, when I use G54 and G55 on a part I add a +Z value on both Offsets for a test RUN, is there an easier way to do that, it's always a bit tricky to change your Offsets, in this case there are only two (Z) Offsets to change so no big deal. I think the Haas lathe has the same Offset table like a Haas mill.

no g10?

I come from 5 axis CNC routers programming. Silly question here: Why do you have to go thru all this drama for every tool? Don't these CNC come with an auto tool length measuring sensor for tool length compensation? You should only be loading the tool on the carousel tool chamber, then tell the machine to auto measure every one of them and DONE! You can use G54 for every tool within a (Sub-Pro-operation) knowing the the exact distance from the tool holder to the top of your stock, your machine is supposed to auto tool compensate for every tool, it would never miss it or crash. Sorry! Had to ask, just curious!!!

does mazepin know how to do this

Why insist in use inches?

хаас хорошие удобные станки со стойки кодить милое дело. st20y супер вещь

gosh i just wanted robots to do the already come ghal

Sounds very complicated.

Setup's should not be so complicated! Designate your setting tool and touch ALL tools off that. Then for your work (piece) offset, put the difference between tool length and your work Z0. This means that if a tool breaks or needs to be changed sometime during the production run of the part, almost anyone with some basic training can re-touch the tool off and continue in production. Also, don't designate your tool length offset to touch off on the raw stock material, if you have to change a tool mid-program, you have nothing to touch off of and most programs cut the 'top' surface first (and nothing guarantees the raw stock is the same size, though it should be close if you holding ±.001 you can screw yourself over).

Probe lol

Set tool .1 above the finish part is how it’s done. We can’t use the table. And they are to grumpy to change

👍🏻