Best tip I got for painting an army was to switch between units and characters. Batch paint a unit, lose the will to live, paint a character, see the light again, rinse and repeat. It's got me through two 2k armies so far. Keep it up fellas, love the show.

Whoa whoa whoa, hold up - you mean we're getting painting advice from the lads making coffee in the office??? (Bants, love the show!)

On the discussion of basing: ever since I learnt about basing in the 90s, I've always applied my basing materials, sand, rocks etc, prior to priming the model, with the model fixed to the base. Sometimes I will build a model onto a terrained base, sometimes I will put rocks etc around the feet etc. For my painting style, I've always found if you can't get a paintbrush to part of the model, you probably will never see it. Bases should tell a story to compliment the model or army, but not detract too much. I find painting the base and model as one, helps me achieve that.

I work in the film and TV industry as an on-set technician, but I'm hoping to move over to being a screenwriter in the next year or so. I listen to/watch you guys whilst I work on my scripts. Gotta give you a big thanks as listening to the podcast has reignited my love for modelling and painting, even though I've never been big into painting for the twenty-ish years I've collected Warhammer. I'm currently preparing a small Iron Snakes force, a couple of AOS characters, and an army of Skyrar's Dark Wolves with my own little twist to the colour scheme and lore.

I can attest that the only class I still remember almost everything from high school (25 years ago now) was my Biology and Human Phys classes, that teacher didn't have us take notes during class he gave us a notes packet and we had to copy the notes covered in class that day as our "Home Work". This was 2 fold, we paid more attention during class and reinforced the learning later with manual copy work.

I recently went through the 3rd edition Tyranid codex and the painting guide section said you could use lizard patterns. I immediately thought of your episode earlier this year where George got ragged on for seeing them as lizard-y.

You guys should come to the States and put on a painting clinic. I'd be willing to pay quite a lot for in person coaching. My painting has improved leaps and bounds just through hours and hours of practice, but in person feedback would push me ahead miles (or kilometers lol), I'm certain. Thanks for the podcast guys, love it.

Brilliant. Great to hear different perspectives based on opinions from experience whilst open to suggestions. It’s a personal journey but always best to try something you haven’t thought of. Thank you

Spot on as usual ! I love the batch painting one color at a time ! Didi that for Hobgrots... 40 of them. Done under a fortnight a couple of hour every week night ! On to the Gutrippaz now ! Did all the Leviathan space marien with a spong in under a week. Need the détails done now but the armor looks good enough for a grim darkish custom chapter XD

Isopropyl alcohol and a medium toothbrush does the trick for stripping plastic models.

Wanted to add to the "where I listen to this podcast" list. I'm an RN that works in gastroenterology. I assist the doctors and coordinate colonoscopies and speciality gastro procedures. So I'm mainly in the operating room a lot. Usually between cases during the day or if I'm on call at the hospital, I'll be listening to you guys or a 40k audiobook. I love this podcast, and I look forward to it every single week.

On the matter of painting details to draw attention like faces and such, Darren Latham Silver Skulls is a good example of great models with really well painted details and simple armor that reaaaally stand out. Completely agreed. Im following that route on my Blood Angels successor (as much as my skill allows). Love the podcast. Congratulations and greetings from Spain!

Absolutely love the podcast. Don't have anyone to talk shop about painting with and so this is as close as I can get. Two thoughts. Speaking of access, should the GW sculptors pay more attention to that when they design the models or how they go together? The cloaks and capes especially. Sometimes you paint a model and you think "there is no way this person paints." Second thought on bases. With my Imperial Fists, I cant be bothered to get basing colors on the yellow. Too much of a hassle to fix. So I use a dot of super glue on the feet and glue the marines to the bases. I then base with sand and prime. After that, I snap them off the base and fully do the bases. Then, using their footprints, I use plastic glue to get fix them on the base. Their feet "sink" into the basing and you don't have to mess with pins. Keep up the good work.

Another great pod guys

can say, I started painting before lifting, and I can completely agree that the gym/painting comparison is 100 percent on point, before you start either its effort to set up, then when everything is all there set up lovely its so much easier to just get it done!, using a home set up for both painting and working out is double effort but once it starts thats it, off motoring away until its done! Keep up the awesome podcast! p.s. Georfe's polite subscription ask worked! keep those magnifier cluso specs on!

1:12:30 sitting at my desk stripping some paperclips to base pin a squad of marines as this tip played 🤣

It would be nice to see some of the other team members from seige as guests for tips and their input on brown or black base debate.

6 months into my learning to paint journey. Just taken on my first "large" commission of 50 guys to get some more army painting experience. I found the 3 step process James mentioned to be so helpful in working out how to manage the volume of models in a timely fashion and that once step 1 and 2 are done the execution phase is much less stressful and allows me to enjoy the painting part so much more as i dont have to backtrack as much to work things out. Keep up the amazing work guys.

I never understand why everyone recommends biostrip, then says whoah kid don't leave it in too long it'll melt the model... isopropyl alcohol does a fantastic job in no time at all, and doesn't hurt the plastic at all. In a sonic cleaner with iso you can literally see the paint fly off in a cloud as soon as you press go

James has more Acronyms then the British Army 😮😮 Very clever tho… does he get out much ? Or does he just eat, sleep, breath and dream painting miniatures!! 😂😂😂

Another great ep guys, lovley stuff. I personaly dont like the look of unpainted texture paint/paste, so i do almost all my bases with the models off, as i paint over the texture stuff always

AIM, PPE, Got it! Next level here i come!

Thank you guys so much for the podcast. It has encouraged me than you know. I have a question for the next podcast. Who is everyone’s favorite primarch?

I accidentally left models in bio strip for a month. They fell ended up falling apart as if they were clipped off the sprue and when i cleaned them up there was no paint lol Loved it

Hearing a bunch of British people say "Base" over and over again keeps bringing my brain back to that Master Chef Buttery Biscuit Base parody song. ...One could probably make a version of that song with audio from this one episode.

Biostrip damages the material the model is made from by getting into direct contact with it. The paint protects against that. If you are doing it in stages, you will completely remove paint from some parts that will then get exposed to the biostrip. Have had this happen to some mini's using other agressive paint strippers.

I got a question for you all, what would you say is your favourite GW "Center piece" model? So many good models in the AOS line, im curious if any of them win

After all this base rim chat, i am considering running my texture paint all down the base edge as well just to throw in a third option.

the bases not doing seperate sounds to me like ditching a subassembls

Bio-strip products are not available in the U S. I use LAs Totally Awesome cleaner/ degreaser. An overnight soak, scrub with a soft toothbrush and done. I'm sure there's a better way, but that's how I do it, and it works. Also, it seems to be a very gentle cleaner.

The arguments for buying a nice guitar to start are that 1) It's easier and nicer to play, and guitar is hard, so you should make it easier on yourself, and 2) If you decide guitar isn't for you and you bought a nice guitar, you can usually sell it for nearly what you paid for it, whereas if you bought a $100 First Act, you'll probably struggle to even give it away, and 3) If you spend $1000 on a nice guitar, that investment is going to make you want to play more to get your money's worth. I have been playing guitar for 20 years, and I always recommend people start with a sub-$200 guitar. I don't care how much research you do, you aren't going to know what kind of guitar will work best for you until you've been playing for a while. I've found that people who start with a nice guitar are unwilling to ditch it, even if it's the wrong tool for the job, because they spent so much on it. For this hobby, I would get cheap brushes and a box set of paints designed for minis to start with. Cheap acrylics designed for canvas don't really work (that's what I started with), but you can use really questionable brushes to great effect, and getting a variety of sizes will help you figure out what you like for investing in higher quality versions of.

Hi I hope you guys see this, I've been wanting to reach out to you guys, for a commission on my lion el Johnson. But when I go to your website, the pop up add for the newsletter with the picture of Dante comes up, and won't go away... So I have no way of exploring your website.. could you tell me why this is happening or help me please. Thank you.

I am new to the hobby (just over a year) and I have absolutely wrecked two Artis Opus size 2 brushes. 😢

Will be watching this tonight. I like painting but when it comes to doing like 10 of the same model (even if posed differently) I get bored. I like to mix in a character or a vehicle.

do you have a video on brush care?

i understand both sides of the equipment argument, better equipment is nice but if you havent used lower quality gear you wont know the difference. I know my ibanez prestige feels a lot better than my standard rage Rg's lol

Disagree with the notion that if you paint for display, stripping doesn't make sense. It's the other way around for me. If I spend a lot of time on prepping a model, and then am not happy with the paintjob, stripping it is a peace of cake and saves so much time. Fresh paint (as in even like weeks/months old) is very easy to strip with less agressive strippers which in no way damage the model. So I would argue that is not worth stripping miniatures that are still in production unless you build them yourself and know you you build/prepped them well.

Somebody telling you to get a nice guitar to begin with is blowing smoke. Get something well under your budget, then allocate some of that money to have it set up properly in a way that is comfortable for you to use.

I can be bothered painting separate from the base, I normally build miniatures months before I paint them and I like to have the building all finished by the time I am ready to paint

B&Q's own Diall brand paint stripper is EXACTLY THE SAME as Biostrip, at 1/3rd the price. Stop getting ripped off! Methylated Spirits is just as good and both are re-usable. Neither will harm plastic even overnight. Resin miniatures no more than 15-20 mins in either. Metal miniatures are best stripped with Cellulose Thinners, it will remove the paint within seconds. 1mm Florist wire is better than paper clips in that it wont break your clippers, never use hobby clippers on Paper clips, they are hardened for a reason. I would say that Xuron Track Cutters are always a better choice for cutting pinning wires

wasd