I am also a shoegaze fan! One of my favorites is a group called Gleemer

It's crazy to me that nobody seems to mention that you can get the exact same effect as the GW mold line remover by using the back of your hobby knife blade. Just flip your knife over and use that as the scraper. No extra tools needed, you don't even need to change what's in your hand. I also find it to be a nice middle ground in the "sharp vs dull" conversation. Since exacto blades aren't deburred from the factory, they're sharper than the deliberately dulled mold-line remover tool but they're less sharp than an actual sharp knife. I feel like it's the perfect tool for the job.

Another recommendation for the nail varnish shelves, I've got 2 sets up storing my stash!

I was using the painting toilet for a while!, liked the fact that I wasn’t mixing metallics and non in water but I have since moved back to jam jars and even went with bon mammon or however you spell it now!

Oils and oil washes are amazing. It is A LOT to get into, but the results are better, faster, and most importantly, forgiving. Don't listen to me, however. Instead, watch a few Not Just Mecha videos with Marco and he'll explain it much better.

George sounds like a daytime TV hoarding show segment written all over him. Channel 5 will be frothing at the mouth.

I use Oil pin washes so I don’t tint the surface and more importantly precise shading with an acrylic is just too soul draining for me.

I'm a scale modeller , started off with aeroplanes when I was younger, did miniatures aswell, stopped both for a good few years . Started again about 10 years ago , mainly building and painting cars ,I started to learn airbrushing to get better finishes on cars , I found gundam around the same time as I got the airbrush, then I got back into miniatures about a year ago . Now I build and paint alsorts

Go watch Marco Frisoni if you want to know why and how to use oils on Warhammer minis correctly Swann-Morton is the GOAT, The No3 Black handle is excellent, the perfect blades are 11 and 15T. Hobby Hack: 1. Stop using PVA! Matt Medium is the best adhesive for creating scenic bases, can be used in a multitude of dilutions and still works perfectly. There is a Plethora of Golden Artists Acrylic Pastes and Mediums that can be used, Pummice Gel, Fiber Paste, Glass Bead Gel etc. Once dry, your base will be almost indestructible 2. Aluminium Oxide is the perfect scale sand

My wife bought me the hobby toilet didn’t even take it out of the box straight volleyed it over the garden fence lol

I would say Cult of Paint use both oils and pigment powders very effectively in their work, well worth taking a look!

Best multiverse crossover since the Spiderverse

I cannot believe that I'm hearing about married at first sight on this podcast, as an Australian I'd like to state that this show is in no way a good representation of our beautiful people

Well JOE, not that it's ANY OF YOUR BUSINESS, but I use a paint toilet to clean my brushes, because I keep putting my brushes in my mouth like some oral fixated child, and it's just nicer to have a little taste of brush when it's been flushed in clear water.

I use a water toilet, lol I absolutely love it. The best bit I can finish painting today and can start the next day without filling my jam jar. But I use a mug as well.

Hello from Straya (Australia), try Farmer Wants a Wife Australia.

Watch Mr inbetween. The best Aussie show , do yourself a big favour.

Re: oils and pigments. Need to get Henry from Cult of Paint to school you lads, properly, but they both have unreproduceable effects. Wet or dry pigments are incredible at a specific tone and texture. They literally are *paint* btw. Oils are easy for recesses but also the subtractive quality allows you to use them easily and unlike acrylic washes. they dry in a blended manner, creating a natural gradient. Phenomenal for all types of blending as well. Use them more with the intention of learning them.

On certain models and vehicles. Oil pinwash is so simple and if you mess up it’s easier to fix compared to acrylic paint. Oil is also great for weathering

The tip at the end is life altering. I love the old metal Rackham models but always have issues gluing the metal parts together (I usually drill and pin as well as glue. Ian’s wisdom of using a tiny bit of green stuff plus glue for attaching metal parts is genius. Thank you!

Got to have SepTEMPLAR for the theme when the time comes.

So, George was the one like I got on my "new number, who dis?" comment. Makes sense! QOTW: How do you know where to start painting? Every time I paint a miniature, I can never decide where to begin. Skin? Cloth? Armour? Whatever I choose, it always feels wrong or leads to more mess than intended. Apologies if this has already been asked!

As an Australian, I’m recommending George listens to one of our home grown metal bands called Polaris, for his next paint session. I await your feedback!!

you can use oils without varnishing the acrylics first

Oil pinwasher here. I'll start off by saying that I am not a fan of the eavy metal style. I typically paint a more grimdark/realistic/volumetric style or whatever you want to call it. The main reason I use oils and enamel over acrylics for washes and recess shading is the amount of control I get. For the most part the capillary action keeps the color in the recess nearly perfectly and if there is any over spill, the long working time allows me to clean any of it up without staining like an acrylic wash. Pertaining to using oils and enamel as washes. I simply like the finish more than the acrylic glossy finish. They leave a chalkier finish which looks more like real dirt buildup. I can also bring back the highlights with a q tip allowing for easier highlighting without blending and glazing. I can see how the drying time is a turn off for a lot of people, especially in more humid environments. I'm "blessed" to be living in a desert in California where we have 0% humidity and 120°F/40°c in the summer so my oils dry in about 10-15 mins. Price is also a major factor as you can buy a huge bottle of mineral spirits and a variety pack of cheap oils for the price of one citadel wash

Language

The discussion around 1:00:00 is so "guys being dudes"

Paul’s model looks incredible

Pigment powder and enamel washes and oils just help add extra nuisances to the texture and overall look of the model. Coming from both a scale modelling perspective as well as a GW hobbyist, it’s just another great way to add different elements to your models.

Another fun episode (you guys are going to be in so much trouble when James comes back! 😅). I use three of the things you guys deem useless. 1) Oils - thin white oil paint is brilliant for adding the brightest part of a glow effect. No need to gloss the model first, just run it into the recess after your colours. It’s much brighter and flows much better than thinned acrylic paint. And Tamiya Panel liner is great for picking out stuff like those Deathwatch shoulder pauldrons with all the raised script on. 2) Citadel Mould Line Remover - this has one use and one use only, but it is really good at it, and that’s scraping off crud like sand and stray paint from base rims before final painting. Scalpels are too sharp for this, and a bit too flimsy too. And finally 3) Ultra Matt varnish - brushed on mixed with a little water as a precision finish on specific areas (I especially like it on weathered, cracked leather), rather than covering the whole model, is where this shines. Or rather, where it doesn’t! 😅

I mostly use oils but I'd never tell an accomplished acrylic painter to change their ways. For me I find the process more enjoyable but on balance not superior. Oh unless you are painting in a closet you don't need a respirator. This is lifted from canvas painters. We are using tiny amounts of solvent. Every "advantage" oils have has been solved by acrylic mini paint companies, to one degree or another. The opposite is also true with oils...so it evens out....what's left..what's always left...it's a vibe.

Oil washes are nice because they're easy to clean up, even if you absolutely glob them on. On the subject of the mouldline remover, I use mine to remove excess texture paint around the rim of bases - is it a good idea to buy one for that? No. And for old paints, yes they aren't as good, in some cases, but they do also have some nice tones/colours that might be harder to find in modern ranges. I will not stand for this Liche Purple slander!

The first gut to make plad paint will make a million, but the first guy to make skin paint out of skin will be arrested.

the bit about hoarding boxes and jars cracked me up 😆 the jars George was on about are the 'Gu' desserts. Top tier jar that 👌

Eagerly awaiting reviews of the ideal hobby setup for small spaces. Moving house soon and will finally have a dedicated space. At the moment I use an IKEA trolley to store paints and wheel it around the house to wherever I can find space.

Just picked up two brush cleaning toilets from Scope for a quid each. Only used it for a couple of days and it seems pretty handy really. Certainly wouldn't pay more than a fiver and definitely wouldn't pay Green Stuff (scam merchants) prices.

Best stuff to listen to is anything from Rucktion Records, so Ninebar, Proven, Knuckledust, Injury Time etc.

The MCU for this would be to include a cardboard cutout of James Edit: with a soundboard you can use to complete answers

Can you link to an example of the shelves you use Joe?

To weigh in on the mould line remover 46:15, Tom Hibberd (former GW) was on an episode of the painting phase and said it was designed for young hobbyist for unsupervised use and you have to be over 18yrs to buy a knife or blades in the UK. He's Been on twice, very interesting peek behind the GW Curtain

Stop shitting on retro paint whenever James isn't here to defend it

MK7 SM helmets are way better than Primaris ones, they're just iconic. I'm redoing all my Dark Angels with mk7 helmets atm. There is something about the mk7 that makes it more terrifying.

I’ve never seen that mould line remover for sale on its own, only in starter paint sets. There’s a bigger one that GW sell that has a similar finish to their clippers. I would never buy either, as all the points about a scalpel I agree with, however it’s aimed at kids building models unsupervised

As far as oils and enamels it is quicker and looks a certain way. It’s used a lot in scale models but I think it’s over used in minis

There's a reason unpainted sand on a base or led's etc look 'odd', its because when you paint a model that is smaller than it theoretically would be in reality, you're scaling everything down, including the light source of whatever distant planet they're supposed to be on, but anything unpainted uses the light sources in real life, like the sun or a lamp, so they never match.

Blue tack in the neck join of your HQs. Swap between helmet and a small collection of bare heads. I only started doing this recently, but I love it for a collection of marines. Before a game I am like "so which guy are you today, or are you in a helmet". I also felt steered wrong by the AK Ultra Matte youtube hype. After being annoyed by that I bought a bottle of gloss, and mixed the two bottles together entirely. That made an almost satin varnish that looks good on most things.

Hadn't really thought about the satin varnish though. Have to think about that one.

Thanks for taking up my suggestion. Good conversation and I agree on the oil wash as well, I've started to paint without using washes or pigment powders now.

One use for pigments is combining them with dirty down rust for more colour, also the dirty down absolutely seals it in

I'm a big audiobook guy while painting. Any book is good, but if you can find a book that matches what you're painting, that's even better