I'm not even half way on this video and I can say with confidence this is by far the best video on KZfaq on how to install gears.

Always enjoy watching Davin work and the way he explains everything. You can tell he takes pride in his work, and passing on his knowledge. My father always told me this, " You can only keep what you know, by giving it away".

Setting a ring and pinion always seemed like black magic to me before this video. Thank you for doing such a thorough job teaching us.

I watched this video at least 50 times when I was redoing the 12 bolt on my Chevelle. Thank you so much for giving me the confidence to get the job done!

By far the best video on R&R of a 12 bolt axle set. I have a watched a few and have actually done gear changes on the 9" Ford so the concepts carry over. Very well presented in easy to understand terms and instead of spending hundreds of dollars on checking tools you provide a $2 solution. That alone was worth the watch.

I can smell the gear oil! I raced a 12 bolt setup back in the 80s (Moroso Brute Strength center) and was taught that the seal should be left out, bearings lubed with gear oil, moly lube or grease on the pinion nut and washer (to make the crushing easier and preserve the pinion threads), crush the sleeve to spec, (with a Snap-On dial style torque-meter if you have access to one) Once at spec, back off and torque the pinion nut to spec, recheck drag - creeping up on it if needed. Once the preload is set, dis-assemble to install seal (lubed with gear oil and a little sealer under the washer), then re-torque to spec. If all was well, the preload was accurately set without the seal drag effecting the setting, but you could recheck the drag and it usually went up 15-20 in/lbs with the seal in place. I always did it this way, and I'm sure you can get away with setting it during final assembly like you did, especially on a street car, but this was the preferred method according to GM and Richmond Gear back in the day. Hope it helps. Great video

You are a very good instructor . You were thorough , precise,and explained everything to the smallest detail that alot of instructors skip over ! Thank you and I will keep this video as future reference .

This is the best how to do video on automotive repairs I have seen to this day. Specifically on rear differentials and gear changing, up grading axles, or even carrier bearing replacement. I don't know how much was scripted or edited but it was perfect. The explanation from start to finish was for the everyday person, camera filming was clear and on point. They say the Devil is in the details , so when you took the time to show the torquing of the bolts and ramping up in stages to final specified numbers was one of those details where in other shows and videos they skip all the time. I liked your fix for the pinion seal. For most of us without a lift I'm guessing will most likely not have a lathe as well, but you gave the solution we can get a ring or collar machined. I have been a mopar person my whole life and have been spoiled by choice when swapping gears. I would intentionally buy cars with the 8.75 rear end, mostly because it is the best choice for any car with any horse power plus the ease of maintenance. changing the gears is a piece of cake which the 3rd member comes out as one piece, just like the Ford 9 inch. That is really swapping out the pumpkin not breaking down the unit and changing to another ring and pinion like you did in your video. In the past I would swap rear differentials before attempting to change out a set of gears in Dana rear end. Your video has changed my mind about doing a gear swap on a 10 or 12 bolt gm rear end or Chrysler 7.25 or Dana 60. Keep up the good work on your videos. You were being nice to the new gears and bearings in your burn out right?? I hope so, for a big block on street tires, those should light up and spin until they pop or you let up off the gas. I would think that the life span for the rear tire would be greatly diminished after the posi installation and the lower gears. I was hoping you were going to show the RPM at 60 mph before and after with the new gears and tires. Also was hoping you were going to put in the new speedometer gear and go over the rule of thumb for ratio of teeth when swapping to larger tires and/or gears. Maybe a quick follow up video?

Between you guys and Ericthecarguy, our knowledge has been enriched, our confidence boosted and our appreciation is beyond words. Thank You!! If I am ever up against this task, you have my back. We all should aspire to help others like you and Eric have done over time. Cheers! Zip~

I love all the detailed information that is included in this video. Other shows would have had this done in 10 minutes of video and glossed over all the important details. Keep up the good work.

Early on, I could tell that this was the most practical/usable Hagerty video that I have yet to watch! I had NO idea that the rear seal included in kits these days was a truck seal - that explains the pesky leak I never seem to get rid of - thank-you, thank-you, thank-you for taking the time to speel this out, and give a viable solution!! I also really appreciated seeing how Davin chose to set up bearing preload, it was so simply, it was a "DUH" moment for me!! Thanks again!!

I think you are over estimating the ability of most people to set the gears up right. I loved to see the spacer you made to run the truck seal. I set up one set of gears for my 70 chevelle 12 bolt about 10 years ago. I was paranoid that I didn't get the bearing preload on the pinion right. I had a old timer look at my work and said it was about right. A video like this would ensure it is done correctly. Thank you for the content.

I think, this has been the best explanation on how to rebuild or lash rear axles. Well done guys!!

That was the clearest explanation of setting the pinion shaft I have come across. I had a new Yukon rearend put in my truck from reputable repair shop and it whines to no end. I know now the pinion shaft is not set correct. Looks like I'm going to fix it myself.

Great video! I did this job with the rear end housing on the bench, and was glad I did it this way. I took the time to install new axles/bearings and installed new coils springs, shocks, and a rear disc brake conversion. I took my time and it took me a day and a half. I would not have wanted to do this with the housing in the car.

🧰🔧⚙️🔩I KNOW FOR A FACT THE HAGERTY YOU TUBE CHANNEL IS THE SINGLE MOST INFORMATIVE CHANNEL ON THE TUBE! Quality info that is explained by someone with dirt under his nails not brooks brothers on his feet! I appreciate all the time and effort everyone at HAGERTY invests in making this kick ass channel

I drove my old truck for 13 years with the rearend seal leaking just enough to coat the underside of the bed with gear oil. Never enough to worry about... Now I wonder I had that same seal issue. Thank you for all you do! These are absolutely priceless.

ive been a diesel mech for 35 years ive set up a few diffs in my day this guy knows how to do it right. And probably the easiest way

I watched this to gain a better understanding of positraction. This guy is real nice and he's an excellent instructor. No sensationalized demeanor with him. I was never bored, and I'm planning to find more videos that Davin Reckow has done.

Yellow bottle making fart noises, is the best was to start any video on KZfaq. This is an excellent video for upgrade carrier or gear ratio change. As he noted, this was a 3.08:1 ratio. Meaning the drive shaft turns 3 times to every turn of the wheel. Most people come in when they have noise. Changing the gear lube and kept at the correct level is important. I wish the quick lube guys knew this instead of trying to find a $46 PCV valve. The ring gear tosses gear oil thru a tunnel cast onto the pinion breathing’s, as we discussed a ready turn fast and ran somewhat low, will wear quicker. If this is the case, when apart, clean the metal flake out. Don’t forget the axle tubes and outer bearing wells. Spray carb cleaner followed by a rag, pushed inward with a broom handle. The worse it is, rinse & repeat. Air check the case vent on top to make sure it breathes as expansion & expansion occurs has to go somewhere, instead of seals. The outer axle bearing wells do hold gear lube so add some while installing the axles. When full, during long off-ramp turns, gear lube will fill these pockets by centrifugal forces. 1 more reason the keep the lube clean and full while level. Some companies manufacturer expensive high-tech rear covers that drop the temperature of high horse power and pulling trucks. Just keep in mind the most all us, realize that high temperatures break down and destroy man-made additives in GL-5 and others. As one of the best diff videos on KZfaq, there are a lot of things to think of. So, if the pinion seal starts leaking on your parking spot, think about the consequences of not fixing it... or least taking your bottle and make fart noise. My question is, who put the muffler in that spot?

This is one of the best “how to” viedo on how to repair and change the gears on the rear end. Very professional. Mike

I agree with prior comment, this is by far the best instructional video on changing your ring & pinnion and setting up your carrier assembly. He uses language we can understand and explains when each step is completd & what it MUST look & feel like. Thank you!

this whiteboy is by a mile ahead the best youtube tutorial ever on how to install gears, i had like 4-5 doubts about the install process before i came here, now im leaving feeling like an expert, new subscriber for sure

By the way,I am in no way an expert mechanic. But as someone that did this same install (God bless the Haynes manual!) on a 1986 K10 stepside,this guy is my new hero. Honest mechanics rule!!!

for heating bearings a electric skillet with whatever oil is laying about can't be beat. good thermostat to maintain whatever temp you want.

Thanks for this video. Rebuilt my GM 8.2 in my 71 Chevelle. Went with 3.73 gears and Eaton Posi. It was a success thanks to you guys. 🤘

Can't believe it took me this long to find this video, this is miles better than any gear swap video and has finally given me the confidence to do it myself.

Peg leg burn-outs are just never cool. Anyway, i've watched A LOT of gear swap vids on you tube. This is by far the best one going. Clear and concise explanations. Good job on this one guys.

Davin, you’re videos are the gold standard as far as I’m concerned. Thank you for the amazing work that you do. My 16 year old son and I have been binge watching your videos during quarantine. Just finished this 12 bolt install masterpiece. Next time I get up North I’ll have to see if you can meet for a beer !

Wow...i felt like i was in a actual car mechanic class in college with lab-time and instructor! Double thumbs up for Davin for a super-cool video!!

I vaguely knew how to work in a diff, now I see what all is involved. Outstanding job, thank you !!

you made all this make complete sense now! I was always doubting myself on how to do the pinion depth. Not now. Thanks again! Plus i can now tell my wife I need a toaster oven for the garage hehe

Hands down the best posi and gear install vid on youtube

I want to quit my job and work in your shop! Thank you for this detailed video - VERY COOL rear-end gear/carrier swap.

I like your style of thoroughness very in-depth on everything, kudos to you.

Long time wrench and restorer. Watched a few other videos on this and your is by far the best and clearest explanation on how to do this. Tkx BTW should do a follow up on how you calculated the speedo gear replacement. I stock the entire set but when I did a 70 Chevelle I had to change the other plastic gear on the tail shaft too.

This is how all how to videos should be presented! All of a sudden I now "think" I can do this.. Nice easy to understand how to, Great job!

hands down one of the best step by step out there!!! please do more of this!

Great video brother. Great description on setting pinion depth. Wouldnt believe how few guys get the tooth wear pattern correct. After rebuilding mopar diffs I see why chevys are always breaking, everything is small. Ring gear pinion bearings. Great teacher my man.

Without a doubt the most professional rear end rebuild I have seen yet, THX

This is definitely the best video on KZfaq on this subject. Thank you.

Ratech makes the correct seal.

It's like the "This Old House" of car mechanics!! More videos like this, please!!

By far the very best illustration on putting gears in... hell, beat illustration on even changing seals.. Thank you!

Very thorough step by step learning process.

What a great video all details covered. I was going to take it to a shop but based on your video I think I can do it myself. I have to say, EXCELLENT job!!!

Excellent tutorial, this is exactly how I've been doing this for the last 40 years, only difference is that I made the investment early on to purchase a dedicated depth gauge. Thank you for taking so much effort to cover all the bases.

Ran into that seal problem before and a speedy sleeve similar to the one that saved my harmonic balancer saved the day. Not only with a wider, locatable too, sealing surface but in the future neither of us wept again.

Davin is a wizard. I could watch him rebuild car stuff all day

I've been looking at diff rebuild videos for months and this is by far the best. Thank you!

This job is tedious but this is one of the best videos I have seen that explains it in simple terms.

When I changed gear ratios in my 69 SS Chevelle way back in 74, I removed the plates and springs that lock the wheels together and had a heck of a time compressing the plates together and inserting them. The shop manual showed using a couple of C-clamps but they had to be released to get the plates back in. SO, I compressed the plates and springs together with clamps and then tied the plates together with many loops of fishing line through each of the springs. After inserting the plates/springs, I cut the fishing line and pulled it out!! Worked like a champ!

Thank you! This video is great. This is the first time I’ve had this issue in my 71 SS (that many people tried to tell me it wasn’t a true SS) 🤣

You know he's a pro when there's a calibration sticker on his torque wrench. Way to go man.

Takes me back to working in the shop with dad but without the cursing, good job!

The most thorough how-to video I've seen. Great work Davin. Thank you for taking your time to produce it.

Bye bye one tire fryer!! I would watch, learn from and trust any auto mech tutorial from this guy. Great description! Thanks for making this video. I subscribed and plan to watch em all 👍👍

By far the best instructional video on differential upgrades. Thank you

I did this whole thing twice back about 30 years ago, he nailed quite of few mistakes I made, and learned from. Spot on!

I said before, and say again - Davin was the perfect pick for this job.

I’m about to have this done on my 1970 Camaro… But after seeing this I’m not sure I would want anyone other than him doing it. He’s a scientist. I know the guy who’s going to do mine he’s not gonna do a lot of these things…..or maybe even know about them

Great video We need more old-school mechanic shops like this around 👍

What a wealth of information and knowledge. True privilege to bear witness to this. Thank you Davin.

Amazingly professional, accurate, and informative. Thank you.

Great video. Very thorough. I havent done one of these in years but now feel fully confident to build my 66 C10 rear.

Very good video for a mechanic to follow on rebuilding a rear differential, one thing I would say though, if you go that far you should change the axle seals too.

That was amazing, I could actually do the job right using this. The metallurgy comment about temp and discoloring is very valid though, you will get the desired expansion at much lower temps without hurting the bearing.

Having done this on many diffs I remove like you showed. To get the pinion flange off sometimes you have to use a 2 jaw puller to get them off. I like your way of measuring the pinion height. I have always fought them!!! Though heating bearings I do not like. They press on easily, Just get some pipe to do so. Fitting the ring gear on,, use some heat, 100F is usually enough. On a hot day leaving them in the sun is enough. Use a couple of cut off bolts as guides. And many ring gears only go on in one position. Check before trying to fit. I have never struck a short seal, though have never done a 12 bolt!! Crush sleeves, You can get 10thou shims to go under the old ones so as to reuse. You dont go through your exercise!! And make sure you have plenty of oil on the bearings. I have an alternative to your tool to hold the pinion. A piece of 2x1/4" with a swing piece to go opposite. Works trick. A dial indicator is ok for someone doing it the first time, I do them and bearing preload by feel. 3-5 thou more backlash is required for racing applications. Those gears get quite hot. Synthetic oil keeps them far cooler. And makes the gears live longer. The paint pattern is the drive side of the gear, you have showed the back! Check the oinion as well.

Best how to set up gears on KZfaq.

+ or - .002 at the Pinion! Thanks for the Video, remembering back in the day, not having the Precision Tools, but learning from mistakes, building Pos Differentials blind.

Thank you for making the video, now I know exactly what to do. A few years back like7, mu tear end had gone out on my way home from Columbus Oh to Pikeville Ky, I heard the roaring noise from the rear passenger side, stopped at a service station and looked under and seen the gear oil covered the inside of the passenger tire, this made it the second time I had to go inside that rear end. So I limped my way back home and the next day went to the boneyard and got another complete rear end. Ok here is the issue, my F150 is a 2004 V6 auto/overdrive. The option I had at the time was to take a rear end from a 97 F150, and a V8 I know a big gap in years but I had no time and it was Christmas Eve so I went for the brass ring, and this rear end has drum brakes. and everything on it in good shape, took me 45 minutes and $80.00 out the door I go. I went to my friend's shop and got busy, Within 2 hours I was on my way home. The boneyard rear end is a Dana 60 ratio I think it is 308, like your project my odometer is off and my OD is good at low speeds but at freeway speeds, you can't feel the difference when I shut the OD off. Would change speed sensor fix my odometer?

Excellent video., explanations were clear and concise. I have a press but i like the toaster oven trick Thanks again

Excellent, natural teacher- on double lip seals always put motor oil between the 2 lips so it lubes/cools between them :) Ive also found when doing rolling torque - its good to give the bearings a whole bunch of turns so the rollers can seat inside the races - usually knocks the rolling off for a while //

Great video. I would add to make sure to index the driveshaft and yoke. Also it’s a good idea to maintain the correct temperature as the factory setup was done, usually 76 degrees Fahrenheit or so. Just check with the manufacturer if it’s not on the card. Get a hot trouble light near it and watch your settings get wonky or set them up in the winter without heat and, same thing. I always use the pinion holding tool against the frame and a 3/4 drive cross bar with six point socket in a scissor configuration with a jack and a length of 4x4 against the bar to help keep it from flexing and use the jack to tighten or loosen, just have to switch sides for either. Gives way more control without all the yanking and can be done on jack stands. I shoot the gear with a infrared thermometer to make sure it stays stable as I do my checks and keep my hands from warming the indicator tool. Using a spacer kit instead of a crush sleeve is a nice way to go. Also taking half the crush distance off the end of the crush sleeve helps a bunch with that type. There are other trick sleeves also out there. I use permatex RTV (NOT silicone ) that’s specifically made for gear oil. Change the fill plug to a female type. Make sure the vent tube is clear. last I weld all the way around the axle tubes where they go into the housing as they are only spot rosette welded and tend to leak and actually can turn if over stressed. When setting the shims in on final assembly with pre load, I heat the case with a heat gun and spread it just a touch. A case spreader is nice to have. Just don’t get nuts with it. I only use the blue lock tight on the cross shaft retainer bolt , and the New pinion nut if not pre applied . Some guys swear by red, but I don’t. I also usually replace the stock cover with a girdle type. Just cheap insurance. On a stock cover I flip it over and with the rounded end of a ball peen I’ll place the hole over a socket and peen it back the opposite way. I use a lock washer on a flat washer and as soon as the lock washer crushes I stop. Blue lock tight on the threads of the cover bolt. They love to leak if not babied. I use a brass drift and a block of teak wood for the seals pinion nose and races. I just wish there was an easy way to clean inside the axle tubes and housing. I’m sure I’m forgetting a thing or two but hope this helps someone. Everything else in this video is spot on though.

I have a 3.42 in my k1500 yukon 4x4 from factory. Great speed available up top. Doesn't automatically want to spin tires when off road. Climbs hills and gets good traction. Probably my favorite gear ratio. I've got a 05 cateye with 4.11 and a 01 yukon XL with 3.73 and the k1500 is my fav

Great video and easy to understand. By far the most trusted explanation out there, but as said before; I'm not keen on the idea of getting the new bearings that hot.

"There's nothin' KZfaq likes better than slo-mo sparks"...except for intake-backfire flames. "Yowsa!"

Opps, 1,000 transmissions in my career. I jusst got lucky, good boss, good crew, sorta and good support. Started in 73, 350’s T-35’s, anything.

Probably the best Differential Service/ Repair video on KZfaq...perfectly explained and executed... although I'm not going anywhere near a Differential...the most I can do is replace an Oil Filter...

Right on the money. Just swapped to a 4.10 and refreshed my knowledge/experience here with this vid. Great job!

Simply the best channel on KZfaq !! Thanks Davin/Hagerty !!

You did a good job of explaining. You were backward on the drive side, and coast side of the ring gear. It was evident when you turned the wheels. Was still good to watch.

You may want to talk to timken about a max temp to heat their bearings. We heat a lot of bearings for a lot different things at work; timken, and skf mostly, and any time there's any kind of discoloration to the bearing that's a no-go do over. My guess is if you asked timken they'd say 225-275f. Above that and you start to affect the heat treat of the bearing.

perfect ! as i am about to tackle a 1987 chevy G-10 rear axle upgrade . im going from a 3.08 open , to a 3.42 posi . although mine is a GM 10 bolt , this DIY is awesome for us do it yourselfers .

Who else would just sit and watch Davin work on cars all day

I've seen the rest but now I have seen the best. Thank you so very much as I am doing this same surgery very soon and able to do so confidently. Cheers

Late to the party here and someone may have said it already.. money for seals is cheap. Change the axle seals while you have it out.. Just preventative do it while it's already apart.

Excellent video. None of the other bull crap you get in other videos. You show us what we come to watch. Thank you for great content. Best videos by far.

This is exactly the how to video i needed to see, thank you and very well done my man!!

You reversed the drive and coast side of the ring gear. The driven side of each tooth is the convex side. The concave side is the coast side

Great video. I did my 14 bolt Chevy on the side of a steep road on jack stands. Took 2 days. Just to accidentally do a granny gear burnout and shattered the housing. Gave up on rebuilding rear ends after that.

Thank you for posting this. Just lost a pinion bearing in my 73 blazer and this helped a lot.

Wow, thank you so much for a great, practical, and informative video. I was going to pull by 12 bolt apart on spec but now I think I won’t but when I need to this video is #1 on my review list.

Davin: If you can pull your wheels off, you're ok Me: Pulls wheels off Davin: *measures backlash off of custom made steel slab Me: *completely lost*

Appreciate the course..... love how you got in detail explanation on the critical points of the install...I have a 85 K1500 an want to do the gearing myself...an you have giving me the confidence to tackle it... Thank you good sir

Lol The start! I had my video running from my channel. Then yours made those sounds. I was like what no way I made those sounds in my video.

Great Video!! I've done this a few times and I still learned A LOT. I know if I have occasion to do it again it'll be easier and better. I remember once using a 3/4 " breaker bar and 6 foot length of pipe on the crush sleeve while the car was on a lift and the car did raise up on one side. You're right, not something to do while on just jackstands!!!

Very well done. Thank you. Gave me confidence to tackle the 12 bolt in my '79 K10 restoration.

Great teacher To the point no fluff Explains tools required and giving proactive advice as you progress into the project

Absolutely the best and most educational and informative video on KZfaq!!! Great job guys!!!