My pleasure. I’m glad you found it helpful.

I’m glad you found it helpful!

I appreciate that!

My pleasure! Best of luck in your calibration.

I think you’re spot on with the infeed and outfeed being concave. It can cause a little cup, but if you apply more pressure on the outfeed side then it’s not a big deal.

I have the same machine and noticed the same hollow jointer and planer beds. To become the best results one should always feed boards through the center of both jointer and planer. By doing so, the results are very good. I really like how this machine performs.

Austrians, but yes, it’s a great machine for hobby work. I’m sure it would work for a low volume one man professional shop as well.

I hope it helps you out! Keep me posted on your progress and reach out if you need any more help.

@@prestonhoffman5695 Thank you so much!

@@prestonhoffman5695 Hey Preston, Here’s my situation - I am testing the calibration of my A3-31 as it is not performing well. I have had it for 2 years, I am a hobby woodworker so it has not seen a lot of action but it worked amazing until my last move. To get my Hammer into my new shop from my last shop, it had to be lifted by the tables (several guys by hand - Nov 2020). Unavoidable unfortunately. This is when my machine started performing poorly so I hired the guy who sold it to me to fix it - He made it far worse - unusable in fact. I finally hired another guy to fix it (again) in late December and it seemed to work fine for a couple months. Now it’s acting up again, so I was researching and found your video (thank you again for that) and in testing the calibration it is in need of some adjustments. So I think I am ready to try and calibrate this myself and before proceed I was hoping to run a couple things past you. Firstly… Testing the outfeed table calibration: I am using a Veritas 48 inch straight edge which is to my knowledge reliable. As per your recommendation in your video, I tested the oufeed table with my straight edge rather than a digital gauge and did it as follows: I set the straight edge on my outfeed table, overhanging the cutter blade, and rotated the blade forward. The blade pushes the straight edge to the right roughly (5mm on the far side, 9mm on the operator side). So after watching your video, I am guessing the outfeed is too low as it is doing more than just making a ticking sound. My first question - Is it critical that the table is level from left to right or just critical in relation to the cutter (front to back)? Infeed: With the infeed table raised all the way up, and the straight edge balanced on the outfeed table I can see the table is NOT co-planer (obviously I’d test this again after fixing the outfeed table). Currently, the infeed table tilts TOWARD the cutter. There is a small space between the straight edge and the table closest to the cutter. On the operator side, the straight edge finally makes contact with the table about 425mm from the cutter head. (using a .02mm feeler gauge) On the far side of the table, the straight edge makes contact at about 450mm. I am assuming that I just need to adjust all 4 points so that it is co-planer with the outfeed, and if anything sloping slightly away from the cutter? After hiring this last guy to calibrate it, the machine worked fine. This was 2 months ago… Now it’s out again. The machine has been used a bit, not lifted by the tables (other than using the handles to switch from jointing to planing mode) and it’s out… Does this seem possible? What has happened?? I know you probably don’t have a crystal ball, I guess I am just frustrated in the inconsistency of this machine and was wondering if you had heard of this machine just slipping out like that. And sorry, one more question… The handles that lock the table down… How tight should they be during operation? Will this affect accuracy? I never used to tighten them too hard but the last guy said if I wanted consistency I should be cranking them down pretty tight. Is this what’s throwing out my calibration? How tight is good? I really appreciate your video and I am very sorry for the long winded message. Any input you might have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jason

Sorry to hear about your calibration issues. The process can be pretty frustrating. I will do my best to answer your questions. 1) The outfeed table needs to be calibrated first, as you already know. The surface of the outfeed table needs to be coplaner with the top of the knives (left to right). If you rest your straight edge on the outfeed table and rotate the cutter block then the straight edge should not lift up from the outfeed table. You should only hear the slightest nick. 2) In addition, you will want to keep the tables relatively level ( “- -“ vs “/ \”) because you will eventually be calibrating them infeed table. This will be impossible if the tables tilt away from each other too much. 3) when you think you have the outfeed table dialed in then tighten your adjustment bolts. I really cranked down on mine to ensure they would not move. Unfortunately, after tightening you may get some tolerance drift. I recall needing to loosen the bolts, making adjustments (accounting for my tightening) and the snugging everything up again. 4) calibrate the outfeed table. It should be similar to the infeed but slightly easier. You are going for coplaner with the outfeed table. 5) To answer your question about the locking knobs, they are tight. The most important function for them is the table should not move when they are tightened. The table should not be able to be lifted or pushed down. I did not cover the locking knobs that well in my video. They are tricky to dial in, but they are critical to get right.

@@prestonhoffman5695 thank you so much 👊🏻👊🏻

Yeah, it was definitely a learning experience for me. I will say that the machine came to me in really good condition though, so I lucked out in that respect.

Or at least a few words of wisdom? Thanks for your time thus far!

Preston, thanks for taking the time to point out where the adjustments are made, but could you actually go through the process of getting a machine out of coplaner and then restoring it to where it should be. That would be a great help for many of us who are struggling with making the machine work as it should Thanks for any help John Jucas

They do not align on there own. I believe the Felder line does, but Hammer requires calibration.

@@prestonhoffman5695 FYI, check out US Patent 4817693. Using only a dead-straight beam, support ledge, and telescopic leg, you can extend any jointer to 10' or more with precise automatic alignment, regardless of depth of cut. I patented the method 30 years ago when I worked on job sites with a lightweight Mafell over-under combo machine. Later we founded a startup to manufacture it as part of a modular universal fence system. You can see pics and more discussion at www.1-FENCE.com. I still occasionally sell components, but you can employ the method using materials lying about your shop. Felder owners, going all the way back to the original cast iron extensions, have reported that this method is by design far more precise and reliable than even the factory extensions.

I admittedly had this problem as well at one point. A couple things. First, don’t loosen those back bolts all the way. Loosen them just enough, so they move with the set screw adjustment. Second, it’s easier to raise the table than lowering it. If you can’t get the table to lower it’s because it is getting supported by some other point on the jointer. Sometimes those mounting bolts are preventing movement. Sometimes the table is balancing on the front set screws. It’s hard for me to diagnose from here, but my suggestion is to find where the hang up is. You may need to more or less start over depending on your situation.

​@@prestonhoffman5695 Thanks for the Tips. Ya I think starting from the lowest point and working up from there would be the way to go. I just need to figure out what's preventing them from lowering so I can get them down. I can't see anything that would be stopping them. Have to take another look tomorrow. Have you ever removed the bolts completely? I'd be worried it could be hard to get them back in.

If it’s at the outermost edge you’re probably ok. It’s really up to you and the tolerances that you need. Personally, I would recommend jointing/planing your boards and if they work well for your project than don’t even worry about it. If you had a .02” sag/tilt near the cutter head, than that would be worse and something worth adjusting.

@@prestonhoffman5695 thanks for your reply. I was able to adjust it using the bolts like you suggested. Another issue that I am facing is with the fence. I squared up the fence and it remains square along the travel on the slide mount except when it starts going towards the back edge. At that point the plastic washer/standoff supporting the fence on the table is on the sheet metal cover at the back which is sort of flimsy. When fence is locked with some/all of it resting on that sheet metal it doesn't lock into perfect square. Did you also face this issue?

I sort of have that problem too. What I mean by that, is I can move my jointer fence to about a 1/2 an inch from the back edge with no issues. If I go farther than that then it won’t stay perfectly square. I’m good with it, because I realize that there is just not a lot of support that far out. Make sure your nylon washer is between the flimsy sheet metal and the bent steel. My nylon washers are not touching the adjustment knob.

Did you go with the A3-31 or maybe the A3-41? Best of luck with the machine. It really is a great tool.

@@prestonhoffman5695 I got the A3-31, with the Silent-Power-option ;-). I'm pretty limited in space in my basement...

My last shop was more limited in space, which is partly why I love the combo machines. Even now, with my current setup, I prefer the combo. It saves space, outlet requirements and changeovers are pretty quick. You are really going to like the A3-31.

Sounds to me like your tables would look similar to a \ /. I could be wrong though. Do you have a long straight edge? I feel like that would be the easiest way to tell.

I do lock the thickness planer bed in place when using the thicknesser.

I don't and have never noticed a deviation. This will likely bite me in the butt eventually though.

Trial and error. Make sure you check out m.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qOCeqdB036eWlWw.html This video. There are some small adjustments you can make from the hinges. It doesn’t help me as much, but it may work well for your situation.

That’s tough. I recently helped a friend calibrate his machine. He had a similar problem. We ended up not needing to adjust the handles on the out-feed. Even with my experience it was a challenge. If you are having trouble adjusting “down”, I would recommend lowering the outfeed and bringing the table “up”. It is way harder to adjust the table “down” and I’m not sure why. I have messed with the handles before. It’s sometimes necessary, but it makes it a lot harder. Just take your time and walk away from it if you’re not getting it and come back.

Thanks for the reply! I eventually figured out that both tables are the same as far as adjustments go. Man those little Allen set screws to adjust a big heavy table is pretty tough. I think I finally got the outfeed side set.

Glad you got it figured out! It has been a great machine for me, so I’m sure it will work well for you!

I have never replaced the tables. I think you could tackle it yourself, but it will be a challenge. The beds are pretty heavy.

@@prestonhoffman5695 Thanks bud

That’s odd. They may have some bolts on there too tight. I would take the red front cover off (right next to the height adjustment lever) and inspect those bolts/nuts attached to the linkage. Maybe loosen them a tad and see if that allows movement. Just to be sure. We are talking about the height adjustment lever and not the locking lever? The locking lever tightness is adjusted beneath the infeed table. If you are still having problems just message me and I will take a closer look of what I have out in my shop. Best of luck!

This is the same mistake I made. Pull out (e.g. toward your knees away from the machine) on the handle (lot of force) and push down at the same time. It will come out just over 1/2" and catch and stay in the out position. To release just lift straight up, e.g. toward the ceiling, and the handle will move back into the machine just over 1/2". I just figured this out today (DUH) and had been doing it wrong. For me, the A3-31 was not correctly pulling the boards through the planer and I originally thought there was a problem with the machine.

In the video I go over height adjustments. Have you attempted lowering by loosening the associated bolts and lowering the set screws?

@@prestonhoffman5695 thanks for the reply I don’t know which bolt or srew to lose i am new to woodwork I don’t want to mess with bolt & screw until I am hundred percent sure or seek advice

I understand the hesitancy. It is possible the outfeed is above the cutter head if it is tilted up near the cutterhead. You may be able to lift the back end, but it’s hard to say from my perspective.

Do you have the locking knob disengaged? It should bottom out if all the set screws are loosened and locking knob is disengaged. If you do that, you will have a lot of work ahead of you, but I assure you it can be done. Best of luck!

@@prestonhoffman5695 the locking handle is disengaged but only 3 of 4 set screws are loose. should I loosen all of them?

If you want it to lower some you may need to loosen all 4 bolts. It can be difficult doing it this way, but if the one bolt is holding it up, I don’t see how you have much choice.

When I Ioosen all the bolts - it makes no difference if I adjust the front set screw or back set screw, the end of the table will still fall away if that makes sense. There is no way to lift the end of the table with all the bolts loosened.

It’s very difficult. I have adjusted an A3-41 for a friend and it took me hours. Another option is to not loosen all the bolts at once (keep at least one tight) and this should prevent it from falling. When all 4 locking screws are loosened the bed is balancing on the set screws and it’s own weight, so it can be hard to adjust. You also have to adjust the locking handle. I hope this helps, but I think you’re just going to have to grind through it.

@@prestonhoffman5695 I appreciate the reply, I haven't had much time to work on it but I'm understanding how it all works now and getting close to where I want to be with the calibration. This video is one of the only resources available, it's been very helpful!

I got my A3 41 about a month ago. I used a floor jack on the end of the bed just to the point where it made contact before loosening the nuts. I also turned the bolts a cpl. turns & that helped relax the pressure on the hinge. This way I could still use the floor jack to assist in raising or lowering the end while adjusting the allen screws.

It is ok for the tables to be slightly convex / \ with respect to each other. Are the individual tables convex, that is, are they not flat?

The same as the infeed table. The only difference is you do the outfeed first and make sure it’s aligned with the top of the knives.

Thanks for commenting. I have had the machine for about 7 years now. It really has done really well for me in that time frame. The tolerances have drifted some over time, but I am pretty rough on my machines. You mentioned the “plate carriers”, can you be more specific in regards to the function of those? I am not sure if I understand what that is exactly.

I was going to comment on this as well, so I will here. Have you noticed the round bolt heads (as you know round = point of contact for better or worse) leaving indentations on the cast iron where it meets the table? I’m surprised they didnt have it meet a hardened plate there. I wonder if this causes machines to go out. I was told later that you hav to be pretty careful to not overtighten tables for this reason, but even being gentle I noticed it.

@@brianlam8 i changed the round head bolts and set up with flat heads and that reinforced material. But the plate carriers are still weak ...

@@huseinstolar2018 I just adjusted today. Seems like every 1/32nd of a screw rotation is 1/1000”. Or about. What did you notice? Do you recall the bolt size you used? Good idea.

@@brianlam8 i think the M10 screws are metric thread. But reinforced materials, that can be tightly tightened.

Single phase.

I could make a dedicated video addressing snipe, because there is quite a bit to talk about. The gist is you need to adjust your infeed or outfeed rollers. Maybe both. I would wax you planer bed, make sure your rollers are coplaner with the bed and adjust them up and down as needed.

@@prestonhoffman5695 appreciate the advice. If I am getting snipe do I adjust the rollers up or down? Or is it not that simple? I only get snipe on the trailing end, if that makes any difference. definitely

If you are getting snipe on the trailing end then you need to adjust the outfeed roller down. The trailing end of the board is “lifting up”, because the outfeed roller is not doing its job. Make sure the roller is still maintained coplaner with the planer bed. Also, don’t move it down too far, because that will cause excess pressure. You will need to make small adjustments and check your work as you go.

@@prestonhoffman5695 I for one, would like to see a video on snipe. Also, please include adjusting the pressure roller for the planer. I have an issue where the board often gets stuck and I'm forced to push the board with a lot of force. I'm making light cuts, no more than one full turn on the adjustment handle. I use Johnson Paste on the beds and it feels very slick. I also tried the "SUPERGLEIT" that Felder sent me. I I've made one attempt to adjust the roller pressure and I'm not happy with the results.

Adjustments are exactly same as infeed if that helps. I agree that a video showing me moving through the calibration would add some value, but not as much as you think. It takes hours to calibrate correctly and my execution is not that refined since I have only done it once for myself and another time for a friend. The important detail is the overall methodology. Start at the outfeed and then move to the infeed.

Not that I know of. Actual calibration takes hours. That’s a lot of editing for the most difficult calibration I have ever encountered.

@@prestonhoffman5695 so it is the most difficult calibration and you still recommend this ? I was thinking of getting one.

Definitely the hardest I have ever done. It’s dialed in and haven’t touched it since. I really like having a jointer/planer combo. If I wasn’t in the market for a combo I would not recommend this machine. Combo machines just make sense to me. I wish the price was a little lower, but I can’t imagine having a jointing capacity less than 12 inches at this point.

Truth is, the calibration that I summarized takes several hours and sometimes longer. I may have been able to show some of the actual process, but I found it to be more effective to discuss how it’s actually performed vs a multipart calibration series.

It’s complaner during the calibration. Parallel when cutting.

@@prestonhoffman5695 For clarification, you are showing the tables when they are locked in to position? If so, when do the tables go from being coplanar to "just" parallel? Thanks!

They should be on the same plane (coplaner) when the infeed table is in the full up position. I found it easiest to calibrate the infeed table when it is coplaner with the outfeed table. The “plane”of the infeed and outfeed table are parallel when cutting (if set up correctly). The infeed table is on a lower - but parallel - plane.

hahahah