I do believe it! And thats really cool, I have a few more VF-84 Tomcats I want to build!

I was in the Navy, and I was on an Oiler and in 1987 and we were in the Nimitz battle group and we pumped a lot of JP-5 to the Nimitz.

Wow, sounds like you really put a lot of work in your build, I bet it looks great!

The GSB Furys were NOT IFR capable. The refueling probe was on the latter Gray over White scheme FJ-3 and 3M. His corogard leading edges are absurdly big. It was a really thin strip along the leading edge. And yes, the nose is bad. Not the builder's fault but the guy who designed the kit. I would get an Emhar FJ-4 kit and graft their nose on the Sword kit. Much more accurate. I work in 1/48 and the Kitty Hawk/ZIMI FJ-2 and 3/3M kits are the best to build an accurate 2/3 Fury.

If those decals are yours, I love them! I've used them on 6 different projects now, and have a few more down the line!

can you do more VF/VFA-102 please 😬

@@fishnchips5826 maybe

Great! Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Cheers!

Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!

Thanks man, I appreciate that! I would love to build one of these in 1/48 scale!

Thank you my friend!

Thank you for watching!

Thank you for watching and I appreciate the sub, this was a fun build and I think I’ll do it again with the included decals!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you!

I've got no doubt in your skill for this kit Joe!

Much appreciated!

Thank you!

Awesome! I need to add a lightning to my collection!

Thanks! Thank you for watching!

Very glad to have you! Thanks for the sub!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Yeah, I've added a few more sword kits to my stash and have recently added some Special Hobby kits, which have a similar feel to them. Quite pleased with the experiences I've had with them. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!

@@HammerheadModelMaking Oh, you will love them. One thing with many of these kits is triple checking the fuselage will close. The stuff in it... cockpits, bulkheads etc... can push the halves apart. I have a theory the fuselage halves end up too thick due to moulding process. But as you point out, its all about just checking alignment, flattening the mating surfaces, removing pin marks etc. Y'know... MODELLING! In almost all cases you can trust the engineering of the kit parts to fit once you remove the plastic not needed. And in return you get superb surface detail, top quality decals, first class cockpits and wheel wells... and interesting subjects. Keep up the good work.

Thank you!

Thanks!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you!

Ohh, that will look so good! Can't wait for you to get started on those!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you, much appreciated!

Thanks for watching and I appreciate the Sub! I didn't know until after building this that I want to build more!

It does strain the eyes somewhat. Fortunately I am blessed with good vision, just praying it stays that way!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you!

That Meteor sounds like it would be interesting!

Thank you, yeah that would make sense about the corrosion prevention!

The Walthers Solvaset is really strong, much stronger than Tamiya or Micro Sol/Set. So I usually do a small test on a decal that wont be used when I'm using it on a new kit, just to be sure. I've had times when I've applied too much and it melted the decal. But when it works it works great, most of the time I only need one application and the decals just snuggle down. Two at the most for stubborn decals, including Tamiya decals. As for the other part of your question, my normal order of operations is: *All your paint work Gloss Decals Gloss Panel Wash Final coat (Matte/satin/gloss depending on the project) Final weathering (oils and such) Hope that helps. It works for me, may not be everyone's cup of tea though.

Because I am usually working on more than one project at once, and there was actually a significant pause about halfway through this build where I worked on a commission project. So, that would explain the glue!

Thanks!

Good time, I will give that try some time! Thanks for watching!

Much appreciated, my Eclipse has a .5 needle.

With Tamiya paints I usually start around 15-20% thinner and adjust as needed, and Make sure you are using the X-20 thinner, that stuff does wonders, in fact, I've started using that to thin all of my acrylic paints and its great. As for the Vallejo metal colors I've generally found them to be airbrush ready and don't need any thinning, and usually spray them around 15-20 psi.

@@HammerheadModelMaking Thank you for the info, i will try this wheni m airbrushing next. Currently making up a Hobbyboss 1/72 SU-47 Berkut so i will definitely try these ratio's when putting the black main body colour down. Thanks again, really enjoy your videos

@@CYPRUS008044 You're welcome!

Thank you very much! I just use my iPhone for all of my filming. I have an iPhone SE and film it at 1080p. I find that the iPhone handles close up stuff better than other cameras I've tried. Additionally, I have a few LED light panels that I use for lighting.

@@HammerheadModelMaking awesome thank you for taking the time to reply. I might need an iPhone??? 😎

@@modelglue Yeah, no problem! If you can find a used one, it might not be a bad idea if you're just going to use it for filming.

Yes, it was VF-61. The only real information I have is that they were attached to USS Lake Champlain, June 1955. However, I cannot verify this 100%, although I do not have any reason to doubt this is inaccurate.

@@HammerheadModelMaking thanks buddy!

So, not all planes will be tail sitters, obviously the tail draggers don't have this issue, but aircraft with conventional landing gear are prone to being tail sitters. I've found that if you are doing a modern jet, they typically don't have any balance issues, but earlier jets and many multi engine ww2 aircraft can suffer from this problem, the trouble is, its hard to tell which ones will be tail sitters until you get it put together, so I've just gotten in the habit of adding weight "just in case".

Thank you, I just wanted to try my hand at building a plane and I love the wwii planes.

I tend to spray the Vallejo paints around 20-25 PSI. I know thats usually pretty high, but I find that they work pretty well.

@@HammerheadModelMaking great thanks! maybe that is the secret, that is why i asked. If you want, try to dilute them with the Vallejo airbrush cleaner, maybe they will be sprayed better, you can let us know in the next video if it worked better

Time isn't the issue, its where to put a 1/32 aircraft when its done. Although, that being said, HK models just released a 1/32 A-20 and I'm REALLY tempted to get it.

Thanks for the like, I've definitely learned to turn the volume down on my intro in my more recent videos, but I'm kind of fond of the music and will probably keep it.

Thanks! I have an M-60 build and an M1A1 build planned, but I need to work through some commissions that all happen to be aircraft, but they are coming! Oh, and also a US T34 Heavy tank in a "What If" diorama.

Wow, I had no clue that the Fury came before the Saber, thats really interesting! I'll be sure to check out that website, thank you for sharing!