I just dragged home two barnfind shovelheads. Thanks for posting such good videos. you're like the Bob Ross of Harleys...we love you!

Thank you so much for showing the "Soundcheck Trick" Mike !

You do great work my friend. So glad there are guys like you here to teach us youngsters what old schools all about. Thank you

This guy is like the Bob Ross of Harleys.

You take such care when working on these engines, that says a lot about the pride you take in your workmanship. I won't mention names but there are some others who are just rough and toss the parts around.

Your videos are great, they've helped me a ton!

Dude, this is awesome. I watched part one already and just finished this one, you have a lot of knowledge about these older Harley motors. I'm a young man (19), so you'd think I'd be into this new technology but this new stuff is really complicated, you practically have to be a rocket scientist to work on it. I'd rather be old school and have something that I can rebuild in my shop with some tools, a bit of knowledge, and maybe a book or two. Thanks for passing on your wisdom to guys like me, we have to keep old stuff like this going

Mike, you stuff is so enjoyable. Love to have your knowledge.

Love your KZfaq channel Mike. Very detailed and informative videos. Currently repairing a 1958 flh, and also putting together a 51 motor with 50 heads, but changing the intake ports to oring style to fit a super e carb.

Hello Mike, Thank YOU for explaining the value of those POP-UP advertisements Historically - I have just "HIT" the button to get on with your You-Tube VIDEO Not realizing that I was depriving YOU & your CREW of valuable Income & a RESOURCE Now that I know you garner a smidgen of REVENUE off the ADVERTISEMENTS ... I let them run their COURSE Thank YOU for your Precise & In-depth instructional VIDEOS COOP ..............................................

Mike, You are the Bob Ross of Shovelhead rebuilds. I love your videos. I would have liked to see you taking the pistons off the rods though.

Awesome. Like the way you explain and do things. You have a very organized process

Thank you for making these videos man!

Mike, it seems like you're not alone in digging shovelheads. I put shovel tops on my 1960 FLH. I know some are gonna scream sacrilege! But each to his own. I remember when shovels were the "new" engines. I worked in a small shop in town after my day job when a shovel head motor came in. I bought the top end, complete, from the owner. And when the lower end of my Pan came back from the master of all engine builder's in my area, I topped it off with the shovels which were in excellent condition. Everyone does things his own way and I surely see the logic in checking a lower end the way you did. But I was always taught that when you check the connecting rod big ends of an engine you put the flywheels on the power stroke position. In other words over top dead center, no more than 90° after TDC. That's where the most force is put on the rollers, races and crankpin when the cylinder fires. We used to just check by putting the flywheel in that position and pulling up and down. Although your rubber hammer technique would work well in that position. What do you think? Does that make sense to quick check the play in the rods in the power downstroke position as opposed to any random flywheel position? I know this is an old post, but maybe you or other engine builder's will see it.

Another one of your great videos. Very well done.

Like Christmas in August, a Pacific Mike double feature!

I’ve had a couple of Evo sportsters and have been wanting to get a older Harley. Thank you for showing this youngster some of your knowledge ( I mean that with all due respect).

Thank you mike , will be ready for part 3.

Great videos. I’ve learned a lot.

Thank you Mike for a great video. You keep it simple, but still stress the little but yet so important things to watch out for. I just gave my son my 83 fxrt shovelhead and will most definitetly make sure he watches this part 1 & part 2, for he has a yearning to learn more about shovelheads, since rebuilding so many 2 stroke engines. Thanks once again.

Thank you for the knowledge, sir.

Awesome. Great to see. old school is true school

The Bob Ross of Harley mechanics.

Great video Mike!

Shovels are easy to pull apart. Going back together takes great care and measuring, these are not exactly plug and play like jappo engine . Takes patience and precision to make a good rebuild. They can go along ways even when cobbled together. Old school tough.

excellent video my friend,,,,,,,,,,,,good explanations,,,,,,,,,,,,nice and clean and neat, nothing left to chance............no speed ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,just good clean thorough work,,,,,,,,,i love it...........thanks a million for this kind of video.............

Awesome video! Im trying to rebuilt a 1969 Shovelhead dyna..

Yup, those 8/32 screws that hold the ignition plate? I broke one! So.... instead of taking it to a machine shop for the extraction, I attempted to drill it. Well, that didn't end well either! So......bought a OEM nose cone and buttoned it all up with new parts. End of drama! But, I did resemble it with never seize on those little stand off screws. Both Male and female ends. As you know, the littlest stuff will jam you up! Great video Mike, thanks!!

beautiful

I need to replace my cam cover, One side of the 8/32 has stripped again. Already had a 8/32 heli coil installed. So ordered a new cover.

Getting old together I love that I bought a new 1970 flh from Ventura Harley Davidson in june of 1970 frist cone in Ventura co. loved those days any way have a Blessed day my Brother ...Bill

Great videos thank you!! Any chance you might be doing a vid on panhead engine rebuild soon?

Hey Mike, great vids the bolster my confidence to continue this journey. Doing a similar exploration and refresh on my '75 Shovelhead SG FXE. Testing the lower end in the fashion described. All seems good. No rod/crank up/down endplay is detectable, solid 'thunk' sound with a rap from a rubber mallet. Question, you mention the rods have end play - side to side endplay. Mine do. Male greater than female. Males exceeds the 3/64th specified in the shop man. The doc says or implies that this is relevant only if up/down plan is detected in rod to crank bearing. Therefore, my conclusion, based on the imperfect accuracy of the test described in the vid, the lower end is a reasonable risk; i.e., do the top end only. I realize this is an imperfect science so no guarantee, but it passes the risk litmus test. The side-to-side play in the male connecting rod is irrelevant. Have I got it? thanks

Hi Mike. Appreciate your videos. What product do you recommend for cleaning the inside of the cylinder and head?

Hi Mike, That tool you made about 42 years ago to remove the cam cover, what are the specifications? I would like to make one myself. We love your videos, very informative, thanks Mike.... I have a 69 Shovel and would like to learn more about specialized tools Thanks Darren

Hi Mike, NICE details & Wonderful idea on your TOOL ( to be duplicated with your permission) Good information on the STOCK Harley-Davidson CAMSHAFTS being STAMPED with an "H" ( does the "H" just designate "H-D" ? or a particular "H" camshaft that Harley used ... ie: as opposed to a Harley "G" or "I" camshaft ??? ) Thanks again for the VIDEO COOP .......................................

Hey Mike, Great info.... I bought a 76 Shovel and it has oil leaks everywhere. I believe the cam cover is leaking (I hope it is NOT the inner oil pump gasket) but I want to replace the cam cover gasket. can I remove the cam cover without having to remove the lifters? I understand removing the ignition parts but I hope I do not have to remove the lifter blocks just to get the cam cover off, cleaned up, and a fresh new gasket installed to hopefully stop one of my many leaks.... any other advise you could offer would be GREAT! Thanx in advance.... TD

Hi Mike, you were pulling up on the rod then rubber mallet down right? ...also, what about rod play side to side, didn't see you do that one. I don't remember the magic number for rod side play, do you?

Hey pacific mike! My old mans shovel has been sitting for about 10 years now and im about to start wrenching on it. Any advice on what needs to be done to a 75 flh that has been sitting that long? Please and thank you

Mike where can i purchase a compensator socket will allow me to turn the motor to align push rods. Also the head bolt wrench. Thanks Mike. Cliff Sr

Hi Mike, Merry Christmas How do you check the side play in the rods? Thanks, Steve

👍

Hi Mike. I have a small amount of oil leaking from one of the crankcase studs. Service manual page 3-29, figure 3-35. is the right bottom stud. I remove the skid plate and cleaned everything. Took it for a spin and let it sit. So I know that is the guilty stud. I experimented carefully attempting at removing the nut from the right hand side. But the entire stud spins. I stopped at this point. So I believe what would happen is that it would spin out of the nut on the left hand side or maybe at some point the nut will break free. Not sure. I do not believe there is enough space to pull the stud out on the right hand side. It would run into the frame. I ended up concluding that it's too risky to fix this leak while it's in the frame. That means pulling the engine completely out to do this. That's my conclusion anyway. Wondering what your opinion is on this?

Hey mike is there a certain kit you recommend buying for all new bolts and nuts?

Hello Mike love your videos we have talked befor about belt primary any way can you beleve the cone motor is 50 years old this Aug. were have all the time gone ...ride safe my Brother ...Bill

Mike, do I have to remove oil pump on a 75 shovel to split the cases. I'm just looking to split and reseal cases. Trying to do it it without removing pump. Not sure if it ca. Be done that way. Thank you

In about a couple of months I am going to start exactly the same project - rebuild 1983 80 inch FXRS motor. I realize I need to get the Service Manual for that particular bike first but after watching a few of your videos I need to ask - where on earth did you get that fancy stubby wrench you are using to undo all the bolts on a head and cylinder? I searched Internet high and low with no success. Thank you.

Hey Mike, what size are those bolts for the puller? I'm thinking of making one.

Hey Mike, I have a 1979 FLH ShovelHead 1200 74CI. I have a brand new set of 80 CI cylinders with the pistons, can I use these with my same heads? If so what would I need to change or update to make this work? Thanks JP

Hey Mike , Jon from the uk, i have two 79 shovels ,one runs great and a daily rider , the other blows pushrod tube corks and blows smoke when warm out the rear exhaust port. Any ideas to the problem , sifton hydro tappets aftermarket lifter blocks , rebuilt s&s oil pump and cam chest , all is good in there, breather timing etc , any help greatly appreciated, I’m thinking either valve guide seals or piston rings , peace out , ps your videos helped me get the daily rider riding daily 👍

What is your thoughts on using synthetic oil is a shovelhead. I have always use 50 or 60 weight Harley oil since I live is a hot climate. i have two twin cam Harley and my 72 FLH so I know to use synthetic oil in them. I do like these twin cam motors I am going to sell one of both and track down an Evo Harley.

YES and his counter man Duke . I beleve we have met at some time do you know Dave Hasen at the shop in Ventura ? I road a 1954 fl with a side car yellow and black I also built the 1939 Harley 61 knuckle that dave has to this day wow small world ride safe my brother ….Bill

My bike is called "my old lady"Her lower end has always felt pretty fine to me. Will you be doing jugs later?

So I have question I have a 1972 cone shovel motor rear rocker box nut steady dripping oil onto my rear exhaust if it’s not a o ring issue where else should I look for the issue thanks

You've got the experience, but using 8/32 screws in a puller application would make me very nervous.

Not worried obout messing up cam like that?

Hey Mike, I wish I had email address for you but since I don't, I'll ask you a question here. I own an 84FXWG, last of the shovelheads, and I was wondering what the compression should be on my old girl. I've owned it for all but the first two years. I refreshed the top end about 15-20 years ago and a buddy of mine said it was starting to smoke a lil bit last year in Sturgs...any ideas?

Is there a specific email that I could contact you at Mike? Have a very questions about a rebuild..