Thank you. I do my best to stay positive and healthy. I'd always rather have a good time than a bad one. I'm glad you like it.

Thank you. Glad to help.

I WAS JUST GONNA COMMENT THE SAME THING! LOL

How did that S&S SH93 hold up?

Wow. Thank You. I hope I can live up to that.

Now, that's "entertainment."

That is awesome! That makes me feel worthwhile. Make your Uncle proud.

Thank you.

What an awesome compliment! Thank you.

I was going to say. This guy is the Bob Ross of motorcycle engines.

Sorry I can't see what your issue is.

@@pacificmike9501 I know Mike, I just deleted the pictures I had of it all apart. But can take more while removing the washer. I gained on the alignment of the belt but lost the reach of the starter gear jackshaft. I tried everything make the gear to reach ring gear but nothing can be done. This was my 3rd complete belt drive system I have tried just not meant to be. It is the last year of AMF so stuff is just the way it is. Keep those video’s going Mike 🤜🤛.

Thank You

Wow, thanks

Thank you. I try. I still miss a little here and there.

Thank You. There's certainly more to come. Glad you like it.

Thank you.

Thanks, will do!

Thank you.

Great to hear!

Thank you. Those are the things I love.

Thank you. Glad you're enjoying this stuff.

Thank you. We try.

Was just getting ready to type the same thing and noticed you beat me to it. ‘79 Shovel rider

Thank you. But there's room for all of them. We all have our preferences.

Sounds great. Read your service manual too.

Glad to be of service.

Thank You.

Very cool. Take it slow. You'll learn it and it will be a great experience.

There’s other clips that even show a 66 shovel chopper

We try to make the sound good, then we realize, "a dog, an airplane, a train, it's just life." We're just guys trying to make a nice presentation. So, the neighbor's dog is welcome to "chime in." No, wait! "Squeak" in.

Thank you.

Thank You, and have fun with it.

Thank You.

I don't know anyone that far from here.

Welcome aboard! Thank You.

Glad to be of service. Thank you.

Thank You.

And thank you for watching.

Thanks, you too!

Thank you! Cheers!

Thank you.

Thank you. Glad you like it.

Hope to be of help to you. Thanx for responding.

Glad it was helpful!

Merry Christmas to you. It's really glad to hear that you're enjoying our stuff.

Thank You.

Thank you. We try.

Thank you.

Tatro is still a genius but I’ll agree his camera isa bit shaky.

Thank You.

Thank You.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thank you. Glad you like it.

Pacific Mike If I we’re to buy a Harley equipped with a Shovelhead am I going to be doing a lot more maintenance than if I were to buy a newer bike with an Evo? I prefer the freedom to do it myself but I don’t want to bite off more than I can chew. Thanks again for the videos.

That's a tough question. Evos are really easy to maintain. Shovels aren't bad. You start hopping them up, they require more attention. "They" meaning all of them.

Pacific Mike Thank you

Thank You. That's quite a compliment..

Glad you enjoyed it.

Time to step up. I miss my teachers every day.

😢

You know, I try to install happy little parts on happy little bikes. It's not bad you know.

I hate to tell you this but, how clean the lower end is? You have no real way of knowing without disassembling it. Without disassembling it, you don't know for certain about any of it. Good procedures and experience tells you it's okay. So you have to go with that, concerning the lower end. You could rinse the lower end with kerosene to clean it up. But, immediately afterward, oil it up well. Those "additional oil lines" were one of Harley's experiments that didn't seem to be necessary and most people just plugged them off. I don't know that I helped you much here, but this is pretty much it. Thank You.

Yes.

It's just personal preference. I'm still deciding what to do on the project bike. I have some kind of "off the wall" thoughts and too many choices. But, that makes it fun too. We'll see.

@@pacificmike9501 Too many choices, can be very difficult, also delay the build, time will tell.

I actually check and recheck myself. Nobody's perfect.

@@pacificmike9501 thank you i really appreciate your comment but I'm very lucky that I had another 8hours work and it could have been way worse.

Thank You.

Same hardware. So, same tools. Thank You.

I believe it is called a "torque adapter." If I'm wrong, please comment again to tell me. That one is Snap-On brand. I believe other people make it too.

Yes, you can.

I understand. My old road bike is a shovel. I bought it new in 1978. It was the last new '77 around. I put 400m miles on it. I developed it over all those years, then wrecked it. It's almost back together. I can't wait. Sometimes, it takes a lot of sacrificing of other things, but you just keep after it. I'm almost there.

Same here, beautiful look & sound!

Glad you like it. Thank you.

Thank you.

I honestly don't know, but any good American brand should do the trick. I'm damned old and bought my Shovelhead brand new. I got off a Panhead chopper and onto a brand new Shovel. I loved it so much, I put 400k miles on it. I pretty much lived on it. I wrecked it several years ago and just got it running again today. I know, no matter what else I get, that Shovel is home. It will always keep me young, and I hope to wear out the motor again. I suggest you do the same. I would like to remind you, those head bolts in and out so many times pull the threads in the cylinder head inserts. It's easily worth a few bucks to have a machine shop mill them down from the head surface to make sure your gaskets seal. Thank you. Hopefully, we'll ride forever.

Very carefully, you may need to rzor blade them off. Again, very carefully. You ned to replace all of those gaskets. Do not reuse head or base gaskets. Or any of the others.

@@pacificmike9501 thank you Mike!

Thank you. Glad you like it.

@@pacificmike9501 thanks for posting this informative video on shovelhead engines.

Thank you for watching.

I've seen this one approached a lot of ways. But, I really don't want to risk anything I don't have to. And, I consider motorcycles "love things." That being said, I would blow away any dirt from around the spark plugs. Then, after removing the plugs, squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders. Put the plugs back in loose. Let the motor sit, maybe even a week. Now carefully see if you can turn the motor over by hand with the kickstarter and with the plugs removed. If you can, it's going to make the next step a whole lot easier. The next step is to remove the top end. Clean around everything first so nothing falls into the motor. This way, you don't risk damage before checking it all out. I know we'll be talking again. But, getting your face back in the breeze on a Shovelhead is gonna be fun.

Great news Mike. After a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and a three week soak, my Shovelhead turns freely. I turned it about two revolutions. It turned smoothly with seemingly no drag and no sounds. Would you recommend I go ahead and change all the fluids, rebuild the carb and see if she'll run. Or should I go ahead and remove the top end and visually inspect it. By the way, I'm in Ohio. It's 17 deg. and snowing. So I'm not that pressed for time. It's just that I can't wait to hear that loud, lopping idle out in the driveway.Let me know what you think.

Pacific Mike ...

Mike, is there a better option for getting questions to you?

L

Sure. Just like anything else modern. Better carb, ignition and exhaust. Oh yah, and a mild cam to wake it up a little.

You don't need to remove the engine from the frame, just to replace head gaskets. There are videos shown installing head gaskets. Go to our home page and click on "videos."

I don't think that is a real common number. I can't find it either. "L" stands for the gear, which is "late," and the proper one for your motor. 1981 Shovelheads were limited as to the cams you could install. I suspect this one is pretty mild to allow for that. My guess, just "my guess" is a 300H. If in fact, that's what it is, Crane advertised it as 248 degrees duration for both intake and exhaust and .455 lift again, for both intake and exhaust. Intake timing 24/44, exhaust 44/24. You'll need to call some guys who sell these cams and still have "old stock" with cam cards to get those specs and I can't be sure if we've identified it properly. If I was pulling the top end and everything looked good, and measured good, I would ball hone the cylinders and install new rings. I would most likely "hand lap" the valves to their respective seats and install new valve seals. That with new gaskets should freshen it up nicely. And, another "Happy Motor" takes you down the road.

@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike, Didn't know 81 had limited cams you could install. Yet another nugget of information I have learned from you. Keep the videos coming.

It's a matter of wear. Are the cylinders warn? There are specifications in your service manual. Look under "Service Wear Limits."

Thank you. I think they're called "torque adapters." Mine are Snap-On brand.

Good point. In a hurry, and sometimes, the only way, but not in this case. Trying to make videos short and concise becomes too much of what I'm thinking instead of doing. But, thank you for your observation, and, I agree.

Okayfine

Assuming it is a stock frame, yes, unless the engine is taller than stock.

@@pacificmike9501 thanks mate you’re a gentleman.

Thank You. I am retired, but reside in Southern California.

That's a long conversation. The more you build a motor to a specific purpose, the less it becomes for other uses. Think about it like this: "I'd like to build a big motor that makes big power all through the scale, a motor that will run forever and never blow up or wear out and make good gas mileage, and, and...." One of my all time favorite people used to say, "Man does not live by one motorcycle alone." But, if you must, there have been some big Shovelhead motors out there. Back in the seventies, one of the greats I always admired, John Harmon, built the Monster Motor. They were then available in 120cu. in. Mr. Harmon produced special cases, heads, cylinders, neat stuff. He has sadly, since passed. S&S builds and sells 103" Shovelheads. I learned a long time ago, I don't care what the numbers are. Do I have loads of torque to casually fly up the mountains? Do I have the speed to casually fly down the freeway in the fast lane with more than adequate throttle left? Is my bike cool enough for "datenight?" Can I take off on a long trip tonight without worrying about it? Mission Accomplished.

Okay. Just straighten up before you turn wrenches.

Thank you. I think several companies make them, but, that one is a Snap-On.

@@pacificmike9501 Thanks...…… I'll check with them to see if they still have the one with the shank to provide clearance.

They must not make 'em like that any more...…………..

You need a guy with a "tool truck."

@@pacificmike9501 I got a Proto 3/8 drive 9/16 off Amazon but I looked and searched all the major companies on the net for the crows foot that had the offset similar to the one you use with no luck. Was saved by eBay ……found one that had been pre owned with 1.5 inch reach...……...…. they must not make new ones like that anymore.

Yes.

It's a battle. If a drag link socket fits the slot tightly, a hand impact driver should work. Problem is, the pretty slotted ones always get used up going on and off a couple of times. Sad, but true. I try to be real careful. Some times, the right size screwdriver with a wrench on it will do it. Sometimes, you have to sacrifice them and buy new ones. I hate destroying things. We should probably make a driver specifically for the early Shovelhead and Sportster rocker screws.

Thanks for taking the time to answer. I figured someone with your experience might know a trick; alas, no trick. My '67 has some oil weeping from under one of the rocker screws. I too don't like destroying things. I might go ahead and buy a drag link socket and grind it to a tight fit to see if I can get it out without ruining it.

Good idea. Nylon seals are also made for the rocker shafts. If there's enough length on the shaft (not always), you can install the nylon seal and the o-ring.

They are, of course, similar. However, the camchest is very different. Shovelheads were made from 66-69 with a generator mounted up front. Camchest still very similar to Panhead. Then came the "conemotor." The Shovelhead from 70 up had a different camchest and an alternator located in the left crankcase half. There are other subtle differences from year to year. I believe this one was a 79.

The Shovelhead engines drain from the heads through the cylinders (passage through the cylinders and into the case through a hole near the bottom of the bore). Unless your motor has been stroked, there should be no problem and stock gaskets should be fine. We're assuming "no modifications."

@@pacificmike9501 no mods done Mike. Thankyou for you reply. You videos are brilliant and are helping so many people.

I don't work any more. I am retired.

@@pacificmike9501 it is a pitty😒

I honestly don't understand the problem. Someone else installed them. What do you suppose they used? Look at the Shovelhead engine videos we've done by going to our KZfaq Channel page and tap on "playlists." Look at the videos and see if maybe it answers your questions.

Pacific Mike yes I’m guessing someone changed them at some point. They are grade 8 hex head bolts and it’s almost like when they tightened them down, the head got twisted just enough that there is not enough room between the head of the bolt and the cooling fin on the cylinder to get a wrench or socket on to loosen it. I’ve watched all of your videos, I have the dogbone wrench you use, I can’t get anything on the bolts enough to get a bite to loosen them.

@@slevin8478 sell it and let someone else worry about that LOL

@@cdula26 at the time I was about ready to. I got it figured out though

Yes. Not the place to take chances.

@@pacificmike9501 thanks for getting back to me !

No, they were not.

No, that would be our Flathead.

I don't know what they are. Educate me.

@@pacificmike9501 Brass bushings to take up slack for the rocker box bolts. Eliminates the ticking sound. Maybe......we'll see.

Thank you.

Thank you, I think. I'm probably out of touch, but, I don't know who that is.

@@pacificmike9501 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jreFp5Nlv6_Oh4U.html The voice of Johnatan Banks seemed just almost similar to yours :) Greetings and huge respect from Spain!

If I needed to do one, I'd show it. I will be doing the pumps on my 1940 Flathead 80. But that's a little farther down the road right now.

mag cover?

So true.

No, they are not. The originals are hex head, flatheaded bolts. They are factory specific purpose bolts. The acorn nut and stud configuration is for looks. I like to use either original bolts or aftermarket twelve points (which are easier to get a wrench on when retorquing).

@@pacificmike9501 thanks, I ask because my bolts and cylinder nuts are hex, in my parts book didn't call for the acorn type, so I'm guessing it's all stock.

Cool. Make sure that the bolts and threads in the cylinder heads are spotlessly clean (carefully, don't damage the threads) before reinstalling, to get a nice accurate torque setting.

@@pacificmike9501 will do, thank you for the help and as always, love your videos

Sure. However, on a Shovelhead, you have to remove the heads first to remove the rocker boxes.

@@pacificmike9501 thanks Mike ,that's what I meant to say rocker boxes . brain fog is getting worse . appreciate your help .

No problem.

Family

Hard to say. What does it need? Who's going to do it? Too many variables. What is the labor rate where you live? This is a question that can only be answered by the person or people doing the job and what it's going to take to get it done.

@@pacificmike9501 it's been seating for 12 years so does have little bit oil around the engine. I tried to start it but oil start pouring out , I think I should replace the oil pump check valve ball and spring .

That's normal if the oil is coming out of the breather. If it sits a long time, the oil will get past the check ball and into the crankcase. Put a pan under it. The scavenge gears will pump more than the feed gears and it will all balance out again. It's simply a matter of gravity that the oil passes into the bottom of the case over time. Don't run the motor too low on oil. Once the problem clears up, keep oil in the tank, don't overfill. If the problem continues, then you'll need to explore further. But this is normal for an engine that has been sitting for awhile.

Better get a better aim. Tap the bottom of the rocker box with something heavy and soft.

I assume you're speaking of one from a 45. Big Twins didn't have oil pumps, except "hand pumps" until 1936. Was that supposed to be a trick question?

No.