So true...

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Thank you and thank you for watching

Thank You!!

Thank you for the kind words and thank you for watching.

So how many Hours roughly ?

Thank you

One is to set the output oil pressure and one is a check valve to keep the oil that’s in the oil tank from gravity feeding into the engine when it’s not running. I hope this helps.

I’ve never heard of that before.

If I was going through all the work of splitting the cases I’d replace all the bearings including the crank pin bearing since metal probably went through all of them. With that said, I always used Hondabond or Permatex Motoseal gasket maker # 29132. They use this stuff to seal dirt bike motors. They both work great! Let me know how you make out.

@@Rapsgarage I just put up my latest video on the 75 this morning and some of its shortcomings on my channel. Thank you for giving me always good advice

I’ll check it out

They face out not towards the engine. See page 12 in the S&S manual. www.sscycle.com/docs/default-source/instruction-sheets/51-1041-billet-oil-pump-bt.pdf?sfvrsn=2

The way I’m seeing that diagram the marks on main gears face away from the engine, but the scavenge gears face towards the engine. Seems right being that you won’t be able to see the witness marks. Am I off again? Thank you 🙏

⁠Yes I would agree. You can also call S&S and they’ve can confirm too.

Yes you can but you can't remove the oil pump drive shaft.

@@Rapsgarage I am ok with that. I just want to inspect it, lap the check ball seat, and reseal it up. Just wasn't sure if there would be issues with not being able to hold the gear inside the cam chest in place during reassembly

@@michaelcouey1383 You can lap the check ball seat without taking the pump off. Do it in place and get all of the lapping compound out of the pump. BTW use a very fine compound. Check out my video on how to do it. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a5qea7Vol8uuf2g.html

@@Rapsgarage I did watch the video. That's what gave me the idea. I am just not sure how you get the compound out without removing the pump and flushing it

Before you start, you have to clamp off the wheel feed line or drain your oil tank of oil. Then I’ve used a q-tip that’s on a wood stick and get as much off as you can then use brakekeen and get the rest off. After completely finish, unclamped the oil line or put oil back in the oil tank and that oil will come up through where that check is and flush out any remaining compound. You don’t need a lot of compound when you’re doing this.

Thx

I have the S&S install instructions the show the difference you mention. In there instructions they install the gasket the same way for both styles. I’m always looking to learn. What do you you recommend doing differently?

​​​@@Rapsgarage I recommend he shuts the f****** up and makes his own fkn video showing his wonderful method with 30 years + experience. Put your tools and video camera where your mouth is there buddy. Let's see those 30 years in action? Oh wait you sold the video camera for a 12-pack huh? Now before anybody gets all upset I'm 55 years old back in the 80s this was just called small talk back then nobody gave a s*** if you are Republican or Democrat and nobody was afraid of offending anybody and Budweiser was the king of beers, not the king of Qu&&@$! Dont mind me brothers, I'm just venting a weee bit M8