@daveparker2477 lesson learned I'm hopefully going to Harvey next month(March) and get 2 more inserts one for my regular blade and one for my thin kerf blade. This time I'll put tape around the insert and get the tight fit I prefer. That was on thing I should have done prior to cutting the insert . Just didn't like the looseness of the insert so played with it and put masking tape around it 2 times took all the play away. Now its a snug fit , love it

J J Piatek you are welcome. I used the weight just because the insert was above the table normally you would set the RIP fence over the insert and cut it that way. It just felt like the blade was touching the insert and wanted to be safe just incase it was. That's why i raised the insert. You may not have to do the same, hopefully. Thanks for viewing.

anthony delgado it is my pleasure. Congratulations on the new tool I'm confident you'll enjoy. Thanks for viewing

Not too scary Larry. Most people put their fence over it and lock it down but remember your fence isn’t on the table top it’s off a little. I’m just a little hesitant because if it doesn’t stay down when you raise the blade to cut into it, you can actually lift the insert that’s why I had that piece of lead laying on it. Keep it down solid against the table top but most of the people just use their fence. not like the insert for my miter saw that cuts down, holding the insert in its place. I’ve never had a metal insert because my vintage table saw I made my own wooden zero clearance and I use the same thing I use the Led bar to hold it in there as I raise the blade slowly just cautionary measure.

LSatch did you figure out what the foam pad was for?

@@briangivens5876 I called them and they said it was just to protect the screws. I disagree with Richard, it was scary as hell bringing that blade up. I clamped a piece of plywood down over the blade and left hand side of the table. Still had aluminum chips flying everywhere and lots of them. But, having said that I love it now.

Thomas I did it that way because I had the weight. Most just lock the fence over the plat making sure it’s about a 1/2” from the blade and do it that way. I would suggest that if you do it with the fence for an even more secure plate. insert a couple of wood shims between the fence and plate. this will keep the plate tight to the table should be fine once the blade pops through it will just cut off the wood shims still keeping it tight to the table . When cut is complete unlock the fence slide it off and the shims will come out all is good and done safely.

I just got the zero clearance going to do what you did. Wondering about a Dado plate now?

Rod if your asking about the 52" total measurements are 31-1/4 x 78-3/8 If you add the rails its 38 x 85 over all foot print

@@TheShackHome thanks for the info.

The Papester yes there is. I reshot part if the vid and that part was deleted I adjusted it so it is very snug it wont move.

Christopher Ungaro yes most use the fence I just chose the weight because I have it. It wont hurt the blade to cut through the aluminum plate no damage to the tips. I used my brand new blade to cut through, carbide tips are very hard and the aluminum wont effect it at all if your worried

Thank you!

WildPassion I believe so I'd double check the site but it should be. Little tip if you want a more solid fit for the insert Ill be putting a quick video out soon I added masking tape to the inner edge of the insert opening to remove the play now it fits solid with no movement.

@@TheShackHome I checked from the site, but the Harvey Ambassador c300-50 model is not included in the list for this insert.

robert97dodge no I didn't i actually went to my local nut & bolt supply purchased 4 of the same set screws but at 5/8" length the factory set screw was too short to level the plart to the table top. It's a tip I'm putting in another video I'm still working on. quick question 97 dodge is it diesel?

@@TheShackHome no sir my 97 I bought out of high school was just a 1500. My ‘06 mega cab I have now is a 5.9 Cummins and 6spd manual though

@@robert97dodge oh OK very nice I asked because I just got my engine mounts and tranny mounts done on my 72 Chevy I’m putting in a 12 valve out of a 98 dodge with an Allison tranny connected to it already have everything I need to build the engine to about 700 hp Cummins are great engines

@@TheShackHome very nice! Sounds like a sweet build. I bet you’re catching a lot of hate from the Chevy guys though. 😂😂

Tony McKessar my brother from down under well stated. quick question did you use the originals as a template for the new ones.

@@TheShackHome yes mate, for practice I grabbed a piece of plywood then used double sided tape to hold the 2 together, ran them through the band saw (very carefully) then finished by sanding the edges. Once I knew that worked I then did the same with perspex.

Daniel Grabske I don't want to take any chances so either the fence or in my case a lead weight. I'm being cautious. The insert isn't a tight fit, still has play.

Ken what is the correct way to install the insert so there isn't any play.

There is a nut and bolt on the rear end of the insert, two setscrews on each side, and a threaded insert and bolt on the front. When you adjust those correctly, the insert will be flush with the table, and there will be no play. Use an 8" blade to start the initial cut, then finish with a 10" blade.

Thank you, Mr. Hatch. I just completed making my first aluminum zero-clearance throat. The piece arrived from Harvey but without directions, so I am grateful for your wiser advice. The whole job took me most of the day. First the KZfaq studying and then the slow process of of making the finished piece--bringing the blade up gently and then backing off, making only slow gradual progress. My Harvey is a 2HP so I was careful not to strain the motor. Seeing from underneath the table that my old ten-inch blade did not touch the bottom of the throat, I had no need to use a smaller blade. I did try using it backwards (as advised by Richard above), but that was taking too much time and forcing the throat plate up, so I put it in the proper direction. Indeed, the plate has proper screws to hold both ends in place, but out of extra caution I positioned the fence over the plate on one side and then used a clamped board on the other. Besides holding the throat down to counter the rising blade, the board kept the shrapnel from flying all over the place when the blade rose through. I also plugged my vac port. Eventually, I removed the board as soon as I smelt the burning wood so that the blade could more easily complete its course. Four tips for the community: First, clean the sawdust out of the cabinet and the saw cavity and then keep the motor hatch open to prevent heat (or even fire?). Second, if your crank wheel goes stiff, there might be some metal flakes in the gear works, so have an air hose or small brush on hand. Third, wear a mask, goggles, and ear-protection. Fourth, always READ THE COMMENTS made to any KZfaq presentation to complete the lesson .