I'd like to offer a few tips for consideration when working with PE. First, get a small piece of 1/4" Acrylic sheet, or alternatively a small ceramic tile. Use these to do your cutting on. This has the benefit of avoiding bending the metal when trying to cut it with a knife, something you will usually encounter if cutting on a self healing cutting mat. The acrylic is better from the standpoint of not dulling your balde as quickly, but it will scratch more easily than the tile. The tile is probably the best overall choice and readily available in any hardware store. Secondly, when filing the edge of a small piece, use a pair of pliers (as you did), but hold the part closer to the edge where you are filing. It is far less likely to bend the PE part that way. Thirdly, use a stiff piece of thin wire held in a hobby knife handle as your applicator for CA glue. You want something that will remain relatively straight rather than something that bends easily (such as copper wire). I use a short section of the internal wire from a guitar string. The benefit of the wire is a more precise application of the thicker CA glue. When it builds up on the end of the wire (which it will do), then a small lighter (such as a BIC lighter) can quickly burn the CA glue off of the wire. Avoid the fumes. Another choice for holding PE is to acquire an inexpensive jewelry gemstone picker. These are usually steel handles with small rubber coated end pieces (on both ends of the handle). They are a little less forgiving if you get CA glue on them, but a bottle of CA Debonder will take care of that. And finally, it is advisable to evaluate parts before folding for the best order of folding. Sometimes, more complicated parts have to be folded in less than obvious order, so taking the time to evaluate the folds can help to avoid any surprises in this regard.
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Those are great tips! Thanks Carl 👍
@JDsHouseofHobbies3 ай бұрын
Perfect timing! I'm going to be using some PE seat belts on an airplane kit for my club. It'll be my first time, but a fellow club member gave me some advice for them. I'm surprised those tiny parts didn't (as our British friends say) "ping off."
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Awesome JD, I'm glad to help. The sticky film on the back helps keeping the parts from flying when you snip them.
@johnnymayo85343 ай бұрын
I've made 'friends' with photo-etched accessories over the last couple of years! The game changer for me was getting a good photo-etched cutter, needle nose tweezers and in most cases using some type of canopy glue.
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks for the tip Johnny. I really do need to get the heavy duty cutters. I prefer rhinestone adhesive myself where there’s a chance to make a mess gluing something down.
@ronalddrain80333 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video and tips.
@Ronsonic2 ай бұрын
I'm old and know nothing of modeling in this century. Thank you for this. Carlsmoot makes some great points here, too.
@ScaleModelExperiment2 ай бұрын
Absolutely Ron, I don’t claim to be an expert but I do like to share what I’ve learned with the community. It give me personal satisfaction to learn that I helped someone out. Thanks for watching and leaving me a comment 👍
@JHartModelworks3 ай бұрын
Instead of using a wash for the recessed areas, use a sharpie marker in the color of your choice. Let it dry. Then take a tight weave cotton bud, like the Tamiya ones or the make up ones, dip it in either ronsonol lighter fluid or isopropyl alcohol and dry the cotton bud off on a paper tow so it's no soaking wet, then gently rub the surface. The cotton bud will remove the marker from the top surface, leaving the color in the recesses. Also if the sand the photo etch before painting the paint seems to hold just a little bit better. (It's so hard to get paint to stick to PE)
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks Justin, I not only appreciate you watching but for sharing your tips 👍
@nheather3 ай бұрын
One thing you did but didn’t explicitly call out is to keep one side of the protective layer in place - this is to stop parts pinging off and disappearing into the void when you cut them off the sprue/frame. Another thing you didn’t covering is annealing - photo-etch, especially the thicker stuff, is quite springy, so if a part is to conform to a curve it is often best to annealing it first - heating over a flame and then cooling - this will make the metal more malleable and will bend and curve smoother and keep the shape. Another thing I have seen with parts like boxes is to solder where the folded edges meet - otherwise, under closer inspection, you have boxes with gaps in the corners.
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Those are all good points. I’ve never tried annealing or soldering in the past. I’ll have to give it a try. Thanks for watching and adding the tips 👍
@timemachinesscalemodels3 ай бұрын
Once again, excellent tips, James. I don't work with too much photoetch, but if I ever do I'll remember these lil bits of wisdom.
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks Rob, I appreciate you watching and supporting the channel.
@jimbucci34743 ай бұрын
Great video James. I use ultra fine point Sharpie markers to add color to photo etch emblems. I color them while still attached to the fret. then when the ink is dry I carefully polish the top of the emblems with 3000 grit sanding sponge then remove then with a hobby knife or photo etch scissors 😃
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thats a good tip Jim, thanks for watching and sharing.
@1968fordman3 ай бұрын
I've been kinda afraid to use photo etch, but I have 2 kits in my stash that have them. I'll use your techniques to try my first attempt at them. Thank you, James!👍
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
So glad to help Fordman, good luck with your first attempt. Take your time and everything will be fine.
@nikolaosstavrou53273 ай бұрын
I USE AN ETCH PRIMER FOR THE PHOTO ETCH IT BONDS WITH THE METAL AND ALSO THE GLUE STICKS BETTER. AND IF YOU ARE USING STEEL PHOTOETCH AND YOU WANT TO BENT IT MORE EASYLLY JUST PUT THE METAL IN THE OVEN SET IT AT 200 CELECIUS FOR AN HOUR LET IT COOL DOWN AND IT WILL BE MORE MALIABLE. NICE VIDEO ,AND SORRY FOR THE CAPS MY KEYBOARD IS ON THE FRINGE!
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks NIKOLAOS 😁 I appreciate the tips.
@petermerz27043 ай бұрын
Great video James! Happy days! 😎🇨🇦
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thank you Peter!
@theintake89613 ай бұрын
Perfect timing for this video James! My next kit has photo etch and I've never used it before. I was used your white glue method yesterday. Thanks for the help. 😎👍
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
So glad to be of help! Thank you for your support.
@BillyStrangeAutoModels3 ай бұрын
Haven't attempted photo-etched yet, but I will soon. Thanks for the tips!
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Of course Billy, that’s why I put the video out there was to show how to work with it. Good luck with your first try👍
@drafting56523 ай бұрын
Thanks for sharing have a great week!
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thank you for watching, enjoy yours as well 👍
@ronalddrain80333 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video and tips.
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Absolutely Ronald, I appreciate you watching!
@alancyr31003 ай бұрын
Great tips! Thanks for sharing.
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks for watching Alan👍
@kdkustoms3 ай бұрын
Awesome video James!!!
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks KD, I appreciate you man!
@cratecruncher4974Күн бұрын
I like to sand the larger pieces while still on the fret with some 1500 or 2000 wet dry all in one direction. Anything delicate I cut off beforehand. The light sanding takes away the sameness of the surfaces of the parts giving them a more realistic finish to my eye. It also helps with paint adhesion. My first layer of paint is always a clear etching primer. I shoot the whole fret when I do my white metal parts with the same primer. Tamiya and Gunze Metal Etching Primer come in rattle cans and are both great in my experience.
@ScaleModelExperimentКүн бұрын
Wow, thanks so much for your tips. I’ve been doing a lot of PE work lately and I’m learning more every time I do it. Thanks again, James
@KarlScaleModeling3 ай бұрын
Nice video there James, thanks for showing us all the tools and tricks, I'm sure I'll find this helpful for my future photo-etch jobs 👍🏼👍🏼
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Do you have any tricks or tips for me? Do you prime PE?
@KarlScaleModeling3 ай бұрын
Yes James I always prime the photo-etch pieces with 2k primer then follow with the necessary colour/s. My procedure is similar to yours, cut the same as you then trim off the excess with a Tamiya scissors and finally a lightly sand with a sanding sponge. Finally, a quick sand to the surface, attach to a stick and off to airbrushing 😊👍🏼
@willyct2073 ай бұрын
Thanks for sharing another how to video with us Mr. James!!👌👌👌👌
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Of course Willy, my pleasure! Thanks for watching 👍
@michaelhintzmikesminiature18123 ай бұрын
Great video James. Thanks for sharing
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks Mike, you rock!
@hortonshotrodshop20033 ай бұрын
Thank you James always wonder how guys cut that stuff and make it look better
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks for watching Horton, PE parts can really make the details stand out on a model car. Although, sometimes the PE parts are too thin to look real. For example window cranks are usually too thin for my liking.
@japanfour2923 ай бұрын
Need to get one of those diamond files. And possibly a wax pencil..i have been using a pinhead of poster tac on a toothpick for picking up small photo etch. You might try removing the photoetch from the fret on a hard surface versus a cutting matt. Works better for me, but its all about what you're comfortable with.
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Does it make it easier to cut the PE against a hard surface?
@nicholasbcleghorn80083 ай бұрын
Thanks for sharing. 🏁
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks Nicholas 👍
@donaldwoodward72213 ай бұрын
Good video. Like the broad nosed tweezers.
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks for watching Don, I bought a variety pack of 8 tweezers and those and the curved pointy ones are my favorites.
@rheidtech3 ай бұрын
Really cool👍
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thank you so much for watching and leaving me a comment!
@rheidtech3 ай бұрын
@@ScaleModelExperiment 🎩
@travisweeks78193 ай бұрын
Awesome
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thank you Travis!
@bobpratt82243 ай бұрын
Great tutorial..
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks Bob! I appreciate you watching👍
@davidchin3503 ай бұрын
I'm left with those sharp stubs after snipping PE as well🙁
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
I used to use a sanding stick but found that the Tamiya diamond file works VERY well.
@nikolaosstavrou53273 ай бұрын
FOR SCISSORS I RECOMEND THE Xuron 9180ET AND THE .9180NS ITS ABOUT 40 EUROS BUT IT CUTS LIKE RAZOR!
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
That’s the one I think my friend had. He would simply cut right to the part he needed like he was cutting decals.
@user-wj6zo3nf1s3 ай бұрын
Well done PE tutorial. Thank you. Where does one find a 'wax' pencil? The PE wiper arm...mfg'er & supply source if you please.
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks for watching. The wax pencil can be purchased from Amazon. The PE wiper came in the kit and required some bending and careful application of superglue. I filmed the assembly of it, but was out of frame for most of the video so I cut it out of the video.
@timstuper3 ай бұрын
I saw a really good version of those photo etch bending blocks at Haven Hobby. But it seemed like in a lot of applications, how you're doing it would be easier. I have to get one of those pencils. Where did you get it? Great video, James! Great recovery from accidentally placing that photo etch on that pedal! And not editing out shows even at your skill level things can go wrong!
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks Tim, I’m doing ok without a PE bender for now but I think I do need a good pair of Metal shears. The wax pencil is from Amazon and they are super cheap. I cut lots of blunders from videos but I left that one in 😂 thanks for watching bud 👍
@garyparker29693 ай бұрын
Nice Tutorial Bro 🏆🏆🏆 God Bless 🙏🤗 Gary.
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks Gary, I appreciate all of your support!
@homunculous0073 ай бұрын
Great Vid. Thanks. What are your thoughts on metal primer? Brands? VMS vs. Mr. Hobby, for example. Thanks again for all you teach us.
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
I don’t use a metal primer. Very thin coats of lacquer paint work fine for me.
@CycolacFan3 ай бұрын
Never managed this without at least one piece dropping on the carpet and disappearing forever...
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
haha, I have a hardwood floor in my hobby room. I have yet to LOSE a part.
@rayrussell62583 ай бұрын
James, would a photo-etch grille look like that? I have an older un-built AMT '69 Torino Cobra kit that lacks grille detail. I'm wondering if it would be worth the search to find a P-E grille for it, and what difficulties I'd have with something that big. How would it be mounted in the opening?
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Hi Ray, I've found that PE grilles lack the 3D effect (just my .02). Some look nice, but thinning the back of the kit grille so that the holes are open looks better in most cases if possible.
@madhatterstudios9663 ай бұрын
Great video. It's a shame it didn't include bending windscreen wipers as I find these are very confusing and combined with super crap instructions, it's a recipe for a car with none at all :)
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
To be honest I filmed it but I was out of frame for most of the bending so I cut the footage from the video. Next time…
@daveabbott3 ай бұрын
Please use a harder suface when cutting parts off the fret as a soft surface such as the cutting mat will lead to bent/distorted parts, ask me how I know...
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks for the tip Dave, I appreciate you watching and leaving me a comment.
@JohnPol3 ай бұрын
Great tip by the way what do you use to do your videos with?
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Thanks John, I use my iPhone 14 with a camera rig on the desk. Nothing fancy. I edit in iMovie.
@bobread57723 ай бұрын
I am doing a Revell 1950 Oldsmobile. I have photo etch for it which has individual letters for the word “Oldsmobile” on the hood and the trunk. My problem which I an experimenting with is finding an adhesive which will give me working time to adjust the position of the letters, which will dry clear when set and which any excess outside the letters can be removed. The closest I’ve gotten so far is rubber cement. Any suggestions?
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Rhinestone adhesive. It’s water based, holds strong, dries clear and you can remove excess without a fuss.
@bobread57723 ай бұрын
@@ScaleModelExperiment Thanks!
@robertjutson46403 ай бұрын
Do you ever solder your photo etch? That’s when it really gets fun.
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
I have not. No thanks 😂. Thanks though for watching 👍
@JoseDiaz-nd9ic3 ай бұрын
Great video, question those pliers seem modified , where can you find pliers with that flat wide edge to bend wider parts like you just did. do you always have to use super glue and can other glue work as well? thank you I appreciate it..
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
Hi Jose, the pliers are stock. I bought an 8 pack of assorted tweezers and that one was one in the pack. You can always use 2 part epoxy, clear paint or white glue also to join PE parts. Superglue works faster. I use a non fogging type gold from BSI industries. Thanks for watching 👍
@Papucho672 ай бұрын
how do you have so much kits, I see a lot on the background or are those only the boxes, lol
@ScaleModelExperiment2 ай бұрын
I do have too many. It takes me about a month to build one model. I have been buying kits for over 25 years. All of the kits behind me need built.
@Papucho672 ай бұрын
@@ScaleModelExperiment can only think of this, WOW! I'm struggling down here in Mexico to get some, lol
@wombat_models3 ай бұрын
Hi James, Do you ever use a primer (etch or otherwise) on your PE?
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
I do not primer PE parts. I just mist paint them.
@clouddog23933 ай бұрын
Sorry but for me modelling is about enjoyment and there is no enjoyment in using photo etch . Therefore unless the parts are large and easy to fit (Covers for radiators , air coolers ) l substitute plastic parts where possible . l model AFV .s and photo etch in 1/72 and 1/35 is a nightmare .
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
I have friends that build in 1/32 with PE, that’s a no-go for me. I sometimes struggle with 1/24. The realism is part of the appeal I guess. Thanks for watching and participating in the discussion.
@deanjohn92033 ай бұрын
You couldn't use a large piece to demonstrate technique...? You had to use the absolute smallest one!? Thanks for the process though.
@ScaleModelExperiment3 ай бұрын
You have a point there Dean. Most PE pieces are small for increased detail. Thanks for watching👍