Have Five Ten ruined the NIAD Moccasyms?

Have Five Ten ruined the NIAD Moccasyms? | Gear Guide

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Күн бұрын

The Moccasym has a fairly legendary place within climbing history, having been used throughout countless cutting edge ascents throughout its long lifetime. Yet in spite of its high flying credentials, it's popularity actually came from the masses, who loved it for what it was - a comfortable, adaptable, supportive, but ultimately quite sensitive shoe.
Unfortunately its latest incarnation, the NIAD Moccasym, feels a little like Five Ten have lost sight of what made the original Mocc so brilliant, by creating a souped up hybrid that doesn't - at least by modern standards - feel like it quite hits the mark for either modern day boulder or those fans of the original who are looking for all-day comfort.
#FiveTen #Moccasym #ClimbingShoes

Пікірлер: 50

@sambuckee6842 2 жыл бұрын

Rob, thank you for an honest review, sadly another nail in the 5.10 coffin 🙄 Come on Adidas 🤬 function over form! If it ain’t broke….. don’t try to reinvent the wheel 🤨

@ukclimbingofficial 2 жыл бұрын

You'd have thought/hoped that with their resources they'd have been able to give the Mocc the update it deserved, but alas - it wasn't meant to be 😭

@hyau23 2 жыл бұрын

Adidas has ruined Five Ten

@robgreenwood3971 2 жыл бұрын

For what it's worth, I really rated their most recent Hiangle, but the NIAD Moccasym just seemed to miss the mark on so many levels.

@robert.hucknall 2 жыл бұрын

@@robgreenwood3971 agreed the new hiangles are excellent

@stevebuscemi1006 2 жыл бұрын

Test the unparallel mocc instead!

@ukclimbingofficial 2 жыл бұрын

Funnily enough we've reviewed a variety of Unparallel products over the years, but not the Mocc (for some reason). It certainly looks much truer to the original though, so I'd be interested in trying it out sometime.

@hyau23 2 жыл бұрын

@@ukclimbingofficial have been using them since they released them. Similar to the new 5.10 but better in everyway. UP took the original design and made it better in everyway

@ukclimbingofficial 2 жыл бұрын

@@hyau23 Sounds great - an upgrade that's actually an improvement!!

@simonsena1378 2 жыл бұрын

I found that the pinks have changed completely, I've been wearing them since the 90s now I had to move to a different maker

@simongalansky9204 Жыл бұрын

are they worse now? i mean the pink anasazi laces

@simonsena1378 Жыл бұрын

@@simongalansky9204 completely different foot shape, they don't fit me anymore.

@simongalansky9204 Жыл бұрын

@@simonsena1378 i bought them yeasterday. Its prety narrow in front. Probably not for me. I like more tc pro where is wide front part. But anasazi is more sturdy, seems harder,stiffer, like plank...

@user-dg9ti5gq4e 2 жыл бұрын

I've got the new anasazi pinks and they are very good. The toe rubber on them makes no sense. You rarely need to do heel hooks, but it doesn't have a negative impact.

@ukclimbingofficial 2 жыл бұрын

I think the toe rubber has been applied much more sympathetically to the Lace-ups (aka. Pinks) and VCS, insofar as it hasn't affected the overall feel of the shoe, but has provided a slight benefit of a bit more rubber. Like you say though, the Lace-ups aren't exactly something you'd expect to be toe-hooking in, which does make me wonder why you'd put it there in the first place, as it just feels a little unnecessary.

@datoon83 2 жыл бұрын

Ditch the background music or make it quieter when Rob is talking...

@ukclimbingofficial 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks, I'll feed this back to our editor

@Mitzbergatc 2 жыл бұрын

Perhaps they're better suited for crack climbing and jamming. The rigidity of the toe patch might come in handy for that.

@ukclimbingofficial 2 жыл бұрын

Potentially, and I think I acknowledged that, but that's the benefit (and if it is indeed a benefit, now makes them an incredibly specialist shoe).

@MasthaX Жыл бұрын

Have worn out at least 6 pairs of the orginals mocs before I got these newer ones. I was psyched at first but I actually had to upsize them due to their much stiffer profile with the rubber(I have a pretty wide foot). I just couldn't get my foot in at all. Tried them out for a bit but they not gotten any better, even wearing them for more than 5 minutes is a real pain which I never had with breaking in with the originals. I even bought some old stock originals because I REALLY don't like this shoe at all.

@ukclimbingofficial Жыл бұрын

We sound like we've had very similar experiences. Worth trying the Scarpa Vapour S - they might be a suitable replacement/upgrade.

@leviathan-supersystem Жыл бұрын

I have the original and and just returning to climbing since 2014. It's a shame cause I want to buy these again because they are still so nice. They break in perfect, like they are meant for my foot.

@ukclimbingofficial Жыл бұрын

It’d be worth checking out the Unparallel Mocc, as that’s much more true to the original. We’ve got a review of them in the pipeline, so watch this space….

@ryanwsu4 Жыл бұрын

I was psyched about the NIADs when they came out.... I HATE them. Its the only shoe ive ever worn in 13 years of climbing that I out right HATED

@ukclimbingofficial Жыл бұрын

I can’t think of anything that quite compares in 10 years of reviewing climbing shoes. I’ve had stuff I didn’t like, but these just confused me on each and every level.

@2rfg949 2 жыл бұрын

that sucks. why would you mess with a classic? Now I have to find a new shoe after 15 years....any one have any suggestions?

@ukclimbingofficial 2 жыл бұрын

I've not used them, but a lot of people seem to be suggesting the Unparallel Mocc, although perhaps that's not too much of a surprise given that Unparallel are produced out of the old Five Ten factory. Whilst it's not a direct like-for-like replacement I'd highly recommend giving the Scarpa Instinct S a go. I did a review a few months ago and basically, it was amazing: www.ukclimbing.com/gear/footwear/rock_shoes/scarpa_instinct_s-14452

@2rfg949 2 жыл бұрын

@@ukclimbingofficial Brilliant man cheers. Thanks for the reply. Will watch your review for sure!

@matthewlueder2656 Жыл бұрын

I don't like how rubber toe patches are being added to every shoe. Climbing a multipitch in the sun can be torturous. Seems they soak in the heat from the sun and cook your feet

@ukclimbingofficial Жыл бұрын

I'm inclined to agree. If you're not toe-hooking then it's largely unnecessary. Whilst it can be useful in cracks, most people will only be in up to the rand, so it's not exactly something that's essential. If anything it's a bit specialist!

@zacharylaschober 2 жыл бұрын

Strange to put a thick and broad toe patch on a flat slipper. This wasn’t a technical shoe to begin with.

@ukclimbingofficial 2 жыл бұрын

It's weird how obvious this seems to everyone else, apart from Five Ten...

@smashbadger2460 2 жыл бұрын

I guess if you where being pedantic you could argue that nothing has been ruined as it's a "new model". But we all know it's a new version of the Anasazi. a real shame as the original Mocc was excellent!

@johng5185 2 жыл бұрын

Mad Rocks slip ONS are wayy bette, And the rubber isn't half bad either.

@ukclimbingofficial 2 жыл бұрын

Mad Rock hasn’t been available in the UK for a fair few years now, so it’s been a while since I last wore any. Be curious to give them a go though!

@johng5185 2 жыл бұрын

@@ukclimbingofficial ahh that's lame.

@fallingbox5858 2 жыл бұрын

Yes but does it still dye your feet red?

@ukclimbingofficial 2 жыл бұрын

They certainly do, Paul...

@willking1615 2 жыл бұрын

I can attest to this. Beetroot feet

@ikarosdream5971 2 жыл бұрын

I appreciate your honesty bro. But damn, I couldn't disagree more. Once the shoe is totally broken in(seems like double the time of a normal shoe) I feel like the changes are right on track. Didnt feel any concerning amount of loss of sensitivity. The 2 piece slingshot and the thicker outsole improve edging substantially compared to any drawbacks. I didnt find the toe patch offensive in any way comfort-wise and appreciate that it is thicker and will last longer. I also feel like it pads my toes really well. I could see how someone of your stature might think it's too thick. I will admit, the first 2 or 3 weeks, I wasn't sold. the thick sole was super stiff at first. the hinge point where the shoe bends at the toe box was awkward at first until the toe cap broke in some. these shoes are the perfect all around shoe. I can put them on when I get to the gym, stretch, warm up, boulder, autobelay and then I even lift weights afterwards in them. never remove them once. only time I change them is for precise edging/heel work or red pointing. I think it's also cool that(plz someone coreect me if I'm wrong) they are still producing the normal version. I think that's a great idea. I bet that the niad feels like a normal mocc to a big guy. if you are 185 lbs or over, I totally suggest the niad version.

@ukclimbingofficial 2 жыл бұрын

If they work for you, that’s great; however, in my experience there’s shoes edge far, far better and wear in much, much quicker than this. The fact that both these, alongside the original Mocc and all other Five Ten climbing shoes, are going to no longer be manufactured as of next year is the final nail in their coffin.

@ikarosdream5971 2 жыл бұрын

@@ukclimbingofficial wild! It seems a little crazy to be releasing new shoes a year before closing down! Probably a cash grab, worked out well for me though as I prefer the new cash grab model hahaha. Ya they aren't the best edgers that's for sure! I just feel they are better than the original. It wouldnt take much to sway me to a better shoe altogether though. Thanks for the info. I dont remember now after watching yesterday, but did you mention any of the other makes/models that you preferred or fit well/break in better? We may differ in opinion on this pair, but we do have the same shape foot!

@the.Aruarian Жыл бұрын

@@ukclimbingofficial are you talking about model redesigns, or a shunting of the entire climbing dept?

@thesii213 2 жыл бұрын

SOUPED UP REALLY CMON GUYS

@ukclimbingofficial 2 жыл бұрын

We didn’t choose the name, so don’t blame us - blame Unparallel 😅

@thesii213 2 жыл бұрын

@@ukclimbingofficial Lies! But also great work!

@Bluecrabsandsushi Жыл бұрын

I forget that adidas is still pretending to be a rock shoe company

@ukclimbingofficial Жыл бұрын

Tbh, it’s going to become even easier to forget as they’re not manufacturing ANY climbing shoes throughout 2023. I wonder whether or not they’ll re-start for 2024 or if that’s the last we’ll see of them 🤔