Hi Ian, thanks very much for your support and feedback. It’s very much appreciated. My father is an engineer and I spent most of my former life working in engineering. Precision and attention to detail are literally hard wired into my system lol. Don’t forget to subscribe and hit that bell. Plenty more high precision carp fishing videos on the way lol. Cheers, Matt.

Hi mate, thanks again for commenting. Glad you liked the video. That’s a great point actually. It’s virtually impossible to remove a rod from a pod without disturbing the other rods. All the best with your 2022 season. Cheers, Matt.

Hi Paul, thanks very much for the feedback and I'm glad you found the video useful. Hope you enjoy the rest of the channel. Cheers, Matt.

Thank you!

Hi Paul, thanks for taking the time to comment and for the feedback. I am an engineer so I have to understand the how’s and why’s of everything lol. Cheers, Matt.

I’ve never lost a rod (dangerous words to utter I know lol.) but I’ve spent quite a few hours out in the rowing boat dredging for at least two carp rods, one of them was still attached with a 30lb mirror carp! As long as your setup is secure enough to withstand a savage take then it’s all good. Cheers, Matt.

Hi Mark, thanks very much for your support 😊 So the rod I used in this video was custom built. The blank is a 3lbs 6oz Harrison Aviator Plus. The device that caught your eye in the video was an optional extra that I had fitted when I had them built. The bit itself was designed and made by Steve Neville and is called a ball peg retainer. The actual ball peg itself was about £15 I think and can be included into the build of any new rod or retrofitted to any rod with an abbreviated handle design, for an additional cost. It’s a great little invention and to my mind there is no better way of stopping a rod disappearing into the water. I’ve had to go fishing for two rods at our lake lol. My rod builder recommended I couple it with Solar P1 long eared rear rests. These rests are around the £25 mark (each) which is top end money but are basically the only backrests you’ll ever need. They are highly adjustable and will hold your rod as securely as you need. Couple with the ball peg and some quality bankware and you’ve got an extremely flexible and robust setup that will last a lifetime. Hope that helps, Cheers, Matt.

Thanks Matt. Appreciated

@@robbins67 My pleasure mate 👍

Hi Scott, glad that you liked the new video 😊 Yeah love Shimano reels. I had a brief affair with Daiwa but it didn't last lol. These small setup details might seem small but when you add them all together it makes a big difference in the number of carp on the bank! Cheers, Matt.

@@matthewcollinsangler hi Matt, I must admit that in my sea fishing from rocks in Dorset I loved the diawa slosh multipliers, solid winches for conger and bull huss. Your absolutely correct it's the sum of all the small refinements that add up, I forgot to mention I used your semi fixed rig 2 weeks ago and landed a 28lb common on a heavily pressured club water, so thanks for that!! 👍. Still putting money away weekly so hope to visit you in 2022 Cheers mate and please keep uploading your top notch videos

@@scottpeters5624 Hi Scott, well done on banking the 28lb common, that’s a nice stamp of fish. Nice to hear the rig is working for you 👍 It’s great to know that you're thinking about coming to Beausoleil! It's a fascinating lake to fish, if you like estate lakes with lots of features and wily carp, you'll love it 😊 I'll be happy to help you plan a trip whenever you're ready. We've got a few more video ideas, thanks for the support! Cheers, Matt.

Great to hear mate, and I'm still learning too!

Pods do have a role to play when fishing from a concrete slipway or similar but bank sticks are so much more flexible and portable. Matrix Innovations make very good quality bankware but it’s not cheap. I’ve got a couple of the shorter Nash bank sticks and they are very decent. Good value for money IMO. Hope you enjoy the difference. Cheers, Matt.

@@matthewcollinsangler thank you

@@matthewcollinsangler I've looked at the Nash bank sticks, there are 2 types. One is a cam lock and the other looks like a twist lock.

@@leegray8950 I went for the twist lock. Low profile and works well. The tips are plain points as opposed to the cam lock points which are screw-in. All depends on what the banks are like. Both good options 😊

@@matthewcollinsangler I will get them to start fishing again in March. Because of my disability/balance, I can't have the rods together on a pod.

Thanks again for commenting mate, glad to be part of your journey. All the best, Matt.

Hi mate, thanks very much for commenting. Great to hear that you are getting so much out of the channel. All the best with your journey. Cheers, Matt.

Thanks for the feedback mate 😊 (missed your comment at the time lol)

Hi mate, glad this video helped you out. Hope that you enjoy browsing the rest of the channel. Cheers, Matt.

Thank you very much, that's great to hear!

Hi James, thanks very much for the awesome feedback. It’s really cool to know that we are helping you in this way. Have a great season. Cheers, Matt.

Haha, great to hear mate! I only do my tuition sessions over here in France 🤗 If you ever want to support the channel, anything you buy on Amazon through this link will give us a small commission, price to you is the same: amzn.to/3TbvnaF 👍

@@matthewcollinsangler i'll have to have a week session in france 2023 then :D

@@JTvlogs984 You’d be most welcome mate! If you ever want to plan a trip, you know where to find me 😊

@@matthewcollinsangler ah amazing! I plan to go France then year later Carp Gran Canaria ! Have you fished there? If not have a look I think you'd love a session there but we warned it can get very HOT lol.. I nearly got a job there... Anyways speak soon.

Thanks for the feedback 😊 The short answer is yes. Just tighten the bait runner to create a ‘self-hooking’ effect.

Hi mate, thanks very much for your support and feedback! I've been using Berkley Big Game for many years years now but this year I fancied a change as I found the last spool of 20lb I bought was rather spongy. For my close to medium range work, I've gone with ESP Synchro XT loaded in 0.40 (it's rated at 18lbs and if you're careful then it's certainly good for that). Abrasion resistance is better than 20lb Big Game which came as a surprise. For distance work I'm using the 0.30 (10lbs) version. I was able to get 14lbs on a real world knot test which is mighty impressive. I'm using it with 6m of 0.35 braided leader and this combo is good for 130 yards with a rig on a 12ft rod. So far I have no complaints but I've only been fishing with it since August. Cheers, Matt.

Hi Sam, thanks mate 😊 At the minute I use the Solar P1 long earred butt rests. They are very nice but rather pricey. Nash does a budget version which is the Nash butt grip. These will get you going for very little money but I’d consider the Nash Butt lock also. They have small sizes which are suitable for shrink or abbreviated handles. If you have cork handles on your 9ft Dwarfs then you’ll need the large size. A few anglers at Beausoleil use these and they do a very good job of locking the butt into position and they release nicely. PS new video soon 😉Cheers, Matt.

@@matthewcollinsangler thanks Matt, very helpful as always 👍🏻

Thanks for the feedback mate, hope you enjoy the rest of the channel. Cheers, Matt.

Hi mate, here are some ideas. If you have to use a pod then I would consider just using two rods, limit the distance between the rigs and point the pod at an angle that suits them both. Fish tips up (slightly) so that on the take the front legs of the pod are being forced into the concrete rather than just dragged along it. If you can lash the pod to a tree or anything solid then do so. You can also add weight to the pod frame with a bag or anything heavy that you have to hand to weigh it down a bit. I find bivvy pegs and bungee cords quite useful for lashing customers’ pods down tight. Test the rigidity of the setup by pulling the line hard and quick from the reel. If it doesn't move, you should be good to go! Best of luck, Matt.

@@matthewcollinsangler some good ideas I didn’t think of, thanks 😃

Hi Andy, sure no problem. Great to know that you’ve been enjoying the channel! Ah yes I’m a big fan of these rod rests and you can buy them in the UK. They are the Solar P1 centre loc back rests standard, not the short ones. Here’s an affiliate link to them on Amazon: amzn.to/3xpVkdc They’ve been faultless TBH. Pricey but you get what you pay for. (if you make a purchase for these or anything else on Amazon through this link, it will give us a small commission - the price to you is the same; this helps to support the channel, thanks 👍)

@@matthewcollinsangler Can't tell you how much I appreciate your answer Matt. It's very rare that you come across someone who takes the time to answer each and every question. I can imagine you have helped a great number of people in their carp fishing journey. Thanks again. AndyB

@@matthewcollinsangler just received the butt rests and they are absolutely perfect. A bit pricey but worth the extra to get exactly what I wanted. My problem was that I don't have identical rods (yet!) so they are different widths where they fit in the back rests. Problem solved with these adjustable ones thanks to you. I've just made a list with shortcuts to all of your videos and I intend to go down it and watch every one as they are so informative. Once again, thank you.

Cool mate, thanks for the feedback, glad you like them and that they solve a problem for you. Hope you enjoy the rest of the channel, there’s links to the tackle and gear I use for each one in the video description. Enjoy 😊

You're welcome Richard 😊

Hi mate, thanks for your question. Monofilament line is hydroscopic i.e. it absorbs water over time. If the line dries out, it changes its nature significantly and it becomes stiff and coily. Dry line does not cast well and there is more of a risk of wind knots on the cast. Before I cast any fishing rod, I wet the spool to rehydrate the line. The water also acts as a lubricant and helps me cast further. For more advice on how to look after monofilament line watch my video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aruSaZeCvKuqaZc.html Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt.

Hi Joe, glad that you liked the video. On my fishing rod, I was using a Shimano Ultegra ci4 14000 xtc (black). On my marker rod I was using a Shimano Ultegra ci4 10000 xsa (silver). Cheers Matt.

Hi mate, thanks for your question. So my fishing rods are custom built Harrison Aviators. They are the Plus version with a test curve of 3lbs 6oz. Rings are Fuji K series 40 down to 16 (I think?). Reel seat is a Fuji DPS. It holds the reel rock solid and it never needs re-tightening no matter how much abuse I give them. I had a carbon line clip and a Steve Neville ball peg retainer installed to prevent the rod being hauled in on a big take. The flared grip is also by Fuji and the butt cap is by Solar tackle in stainless. From 5 yards to 130 yards and from 10lbs to 100lbs (catfish), these rods cover all my needs. Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt.

Hi mate, thanks very much. Glad you liked it & don't forget to subscribe as there will be more videos coming soon! Any fishing questions welcome 😊

@@matthewcollinsangler subscribed and notification bell on mate . And I'm sure some questions will crop up I've only been at it for about 6 months so lots to learn but also trying to teach my son as we go as well. So a binge of your content when we are on the bank this weekend will be happening but anything I need ask I will do . Also love the content and how you get it across to the viewer

@@truckinghell1655 Wow, well that’s wonderful to hear mate. It's a real challenge for anyone trying to learn carp fishing in this day and age. So many opinions, so much marketing hype! My advice would be to keep it very simple, focus on the basics and you won’t go far wrong. I hope the channel helps you, plenty more to come and we’re here if you need us. Cheers, Matt.

Keeping it simple proves hard with how much stuff is pushed at you from tackle companies and some channels but trying to keep it to a level I'm comfortable with . Me and lad out for a 24 this weekend so hopefully land a few nice fish more so for him than me cheers

I’ve been using the line clip on my reels for clipping up for many years and I’ve never had an issue with line damage on any Shimano or Daiwa reels. I did have a cheap reel that damaged the line if I used it but it wasn't an issue because I didn't need it for the job it was doing. The best way to check whether your reels can be used in this way is to try it and then carefully inspect the line with a high quality eyeglass. Any damage will be clearly visible. I’m not bothered about the line showing some evidence of being in the clip, it’s actually damage that you need to worry about.

Hi Dan, thanks for commenting and I’m glad that you liked the video. I have a couple of options for you. For solid PVA bags then I’d use my original trick inline running lead setup (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e6pla7eXq6vHoYE.html) but use a leadless material such as the Nash Cling-on. This way you can build the bags onto leaders in advance or during the session and then just loop to loop them onto the mainline. We’ve filmed a video on this exact method and it’ll be out during the year. For small bag fishing then I’d use the Shock and Run system (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l6imjdx5p6ndcXk.html). Just make sure you build the rig with the exact components I used. I’ve seen one guy create his own version which TBH was down right dangerous. This way you can push the ring onto the sleeve with enough force so that with a small mesh bag you can hit the clip and land the rig nicely. It’s no good just firing it wildly into the lake as the force of impact will rip the ring off the sleeve. If you want to do that then use PVA tape and tie the swivel and the ring together. If you are using a pure running lead system like I used for the mono hair rig video (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/guB2nNGSnpjGooE.html) then you can get away with it if you are fishing at short range and you use a very very small bag or something like a two bait stringer, but only if you hit the clip and land the rig bang on. Or cheat and use PVA tape. I have a couple of other systems in development that would work as well but they are still in the R&D stage 😉 Hope that helps, Cheers, Matt.

@@matthewcollinsangler Wow, thank you so much for taking the time to reply in such detail. I really like the idea of safety that running leads bring to the table. As a relative newbie to the sport, fish care/safety is something i'm really trying to focus on so anything that helps in that regard I consider absolutely vital. I will check out your links and also look forward to upcoming vids. Keep up the stellar work!

@@chojindan No worries mate, happy to help. I remember only too well how confusing it is to learn this sport (you never stop) that’s why I love it so much. If you are a relative newcomer to the sport please bear in mind that running rigs are great until you come up against water with lots of weed or underwater hazards. As and when you do you’ll need to swap over to a lead dumping system that operates quickly and efficiently (on the take!) the outline inline system works well (I need to do a video on that BTW lol.) or a lead clip. The Nash weed lead clips are an excellent choice IMO. It’s great to know that carp safety is a priority for you. Do check out my carp care video if you haven't already: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a5mmaK6AyKzKdXk.html

I did buy a long masonry drill bit to bed my bank sticks in,and got a cross member welded to it,but somebody nicked it ,probably after thinking thats a good idea why should I pay for an expensive bank stick auger,the attitude nowadays is poor towards people who put there hard earned grotes away,but left the rods and reels alone funnily enough,all of your instructionsal videos are a joy to watch and so refreshing as against a great vlog,but always it seems from a sales point of view,brilliant stuff Matt and thank you from the rest of the yet unitiated,if everyone else learns only one thing from this and you take it with next time your fishing,then its a success. This is awesome content ladies and gents 🇬🇧🏕🎣🔥🍺🍽☕🚰🚾,repeat

Hi Mitch, ah what beady eyes you have! Yes although I did loop the rig on for this video I do actually prefer to tie them on as the knot never comes off the ring straight! Cheers, Matt.

@@matthewcollinsangler many thanks for the reply Matt, all your videos are excellent. I only ask as over time we all try & use different methods with different materials & naturally you may have been using the loop method with mono when making this particular video when previously you didn't. I too have used both the loop & tying directly to a ring swivel & never had a problem with either. I've tied your mono rig with a loop & it looks like it will present the same as attaching direct to the swivel, I just wondered if you'd encountered any issues using the loop on the mono rig?

@@mitchwitt9944 Hi Mitch, ah thanks very much mate that’s great to hear. No it’s no issue mate, just personal preference that’s all. If I am using a loop method I’ll always use a little tungsten anti tangle sleeve as that will help the hooklink material to exit straight off the ring swivel 😉

Hi Clive, in this video I’m using the Matrix Innovations Blackout range of bankware. The inner rod is solid carbon, the main banstick body is aluminium and the tip is machined stainless. They are solid and well made but not cheap! I also use the Matrix Rock solid stainless bankware. At the lower end I’ve also tested the basic Nash Banksticks. They are alright and offer good value for money. I’d definitely recommend a move away from a pod, best move I ever made! Cheers, Matt.

Hi Christian, so I have the Matrix Innovations auger. Solid stainless, very good. Not cheap but will last forever!

Your height doesn’t matter when it comes to rod size. The factors are: If you’re placing rigs by hand using a rowing boat, use a 9ft rod If you’re casting from the bank up to 70m, use a 9ft rod If you regularly need to fish further than 70m., use a 12ft rod For maximum distance, use a 13ft rod (but that’s a specialist rod) If you’re looking to buy your first carp rod, I’d buy a 9ft Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt

It very much depends on the venue you fish TBH. This year I’ve decided to use a pod more in my fishing to see how I go. The most important thing with a pod is to secure it properly. That’s something that is often overlooked. We’ve done full video on pods vs banks ticks here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e6mUabB7zbu7ZWw.htmlsi=frvvaTnnAo-Rsn4h

Hi Bobby, thanks for your question. When I'm talking about a tight clutch, I mean a clutch that is set tight enough to aid the hooking of the carp but not so tight that your rod can move on the bank sticks or rod pod. When I get a strong take from a carp, my clutch can still spin but the carp has to pull quite hard. In effect the clutch is playing the carp before I've even picked up the rod. You need really good bankware and a top quality back rest or you could lose a rod though! The technique is much more effective than a loosely set bait runner setup because the carp is immediately under your control and very well hooked. It's effectively an auto strike system. Obviously it only works if the carp moves away from you but that's what happens 90% of the time anyway. Hope that helps. Best of luck, Matt.

@@matthewcollinsangler really appreciate your time to reply. Just upgraded by fishing gear and hoping to progress my PB but realising I’m still a complete novice at this. Always happy when people offer advise so really grateful for your detailed reply. Thanks

@@bobbyswann3753 My pleasure mate, always happy to help. Hope you find the channel useful and if you have any other question, just leave it in the comments.

Hi Rob, thanks for commenting. If you are looking for a simple, tangle free rig that uses a loop to loop connection then check out my mono D-rig: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ntV4dZSYzsXXgac.html. Just make sure you make the loop large enough to pass a bait through or you’ll have to loop the rig on before you mount a bait. Use very strong mono of 0.40 min diameter (ignore the stated BS) as loop knots are not as strong as tying directly to the swivel. You can still use an anti tangle sleeve with a loop to loop connection if you really want to be sure. Hope that helps, Cheers, Matt.

Hi Ray, so if we’re talking about shock leaders (rather than abrasion leaders) then the way I’ve always done it is this: Tie the leader to the mainline using a suitable leader knot for the materials chosen. Wind on a full five turns of leader on the spool, then thread the rod. I want a 6ft drop (spigot height), so then take off the length of the leadcore or leadless material you’re using and cut the leader. What you end up with is the lead hanging down to the spigot and then 5 turns on the spool. Five turns is enough to take the load of a full bloodied cast but the leader isn't so long that it will start to cost you distance. If you cut and re-tie the leader a few times you’ll lose a bit of length of course but as long as you still have three turns on the spool you should be OK. Any less and you run the risk of a premature failure. All rods and reels vary a bit of course but I know that for my setup I need 6m of leader material to achieve this. Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt.

@@matthewcollinsangler Thank you Matthew. I really like your answers to questions that i ask, because they are not just simply one liners, they are proper, in depth explanations. Cheers.

@@raybriggs4529 Hi Ray, thanks for the feedback! It’s my inner engineer 😊 If something’s worth doing, it’s worth doing right 😉

Carp rods vary in length from 6ft to 13ft. Long rods cast further (up to 130m), short rods are easier to use at close range (< 70m). Test curves vary from 2lbs to 3.5lbs. 2lbs is good for short range (

תודה רבה לך על העזרה ימלך 🤗👑🤗👍👍👍👍🎣🐟🎣🐟🎣

Hi Finn, I just tie my rigs directly to the mainline swivel using a five turn tucked blood knot. For more info watch my basic hair rig video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/guB2nNGSnpjGooE.html Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt.

Hi Joe, so all the bank sticks in the video are by Matrix innovations. The black ones are stainless steel pointed with a lightweight anodized aluminium outer. The central stem is carbon. I’ve been using them for a couple of years now and I’m happy with them. I went with Matrix as I’ve owned a set of their stainless rock solid bankware (also mentioned briefly). I’ve been battering these into the hardest of ground for 15+ years and apart from some scratches and a touch of wear they will still last my lifetime lol. The bankstick hand auger is also made by Matrix and for certain situations it’s very handy. Cheers, Matt.

Hi mate, thanks for commenting. Well there are two options for a wooden jeti. You could use a rod pod or you could use stage stands. Personally I prefer stage stands as it gives me more flexibility. Depending on what bankware you have you should be able to buy stage stands that match your bankware. If not then just choose stage stands designed for the diameter of the bankware you have. For example I know that the Nash Bank sticks fit into the Matrix Innovations stage stands without an issue. Don’t forget that if you use stage stands it’s best to use short bank sticks or the setup won’t be very stable. 9” works pretty well. Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt.

@@matthewcollinsangler Thanks so much really appreciate it

@@flyingfishing5705 No worries, always happy to help 😊

Hi David, thanks for your support. Glad that you are enjoying our work. When I got back into carp fishing 20 years ago. The first thing I bought was a pod because I believed that it was the right thing to do. After a couple of years I realised that I didn't like pods so I sold it and bought a set of quality stainless bankware and I still use them to this day. Pods are unstable, bulky and very limiting. For certain specific situations (concrete slipways) they are really useful but other than that it's banksticks all the way for me mate. Cheers, Matt.

@@matthewcollinsangler Thanks Matt. Looks like im off to my local tackle shop for some bank sticks and auger! All the best David

Hi James, on my fishing rods I’m using Shimano Ultegra ci4s 14000 XTCs. Those are the black ones. On my marker rod I’m using the Shimano Ultegra ci4 10000 XSAs. Those are the silver ones. For a bit more info on the Ci4 XTCs watch my spooling video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b-CAaLZ6z9qdn3U.html. Cheers, Matt.

Hi Jack, these bank sticks are all made by Matrix Innovations. The stainless are the "Rock Solid" model, 18mm of indistructableness! Can be battered into the hardest of grounds. Had mine 15 years and they won't ever need replacing. The black ones are the "Black Out" model. Stainless point, aluminium body, solid carbon centre pole. Lightweight yet robust enough for many situations. Perfect for travelling light. Cheers, Matt.

@@matthewcollinsangler thank you for your reply and your video is great! 👍🏼

@@jackclarke8678 No worries mate 👍 Thanks for the feedback.

Hi Paul, in this video I was using some custom built 12ft Harrison Aviators 3lbs 6oz test curve. Nice rods but not cheap lol. This winter I’m using some 9ft Nash Dwarfs in 3lbs and I love them. Brilliant little rods and still capable of banking very big carp at up to 90 yards casting range. Cheers, Matt.

@@matthewcollinsangler Cheers for the reply mate I've got some dwarf rods 9ft 3lb Harrison rods are quality I've known a couple of people who used them well worth the money mate.I might get some more rods I've 15 carp rods lol for different jobs over kill probably but it's an addiction and then all my match and specimen gear I think I need help Haha.

@@paulAnthony7236 We all have issues mate, my garage looks like a tackle shop 😂

@@matthewcollinsangler same here mate bloody love it lol

Thanks 👍

Hi Eddie, yes, there aren’t any knot tying instructions in this video, this was really about how best to set up a carp rod on the bank. If you’d like to master a super simple carp rig that will catch you loads then please check out my mono hair rig video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/guB2nNGSnpjGooE.html There’s loads of quality content on the channel to discover so I hope you enjoy browsing our videos as they contain a lot of what you need to know, without the BS. All the best on your journey, Matt.

I’m scared to scratch it within the first couple of days of getting the gear but after that doesn’t really matter 😂