Great info and high quality video. I think I'll go with hydronic in my future bathroom project. Would be great with more info on hydronic systems, floor heating and heat sources in particular!

@@albertravn Hard to beat hydronic. We’ll consider making more heating videos in the near future. Stay tuned.

What is your opinion on high velocity air system?

You forgot to mention the part of owning a pet with forced air 😂 sooo much fun watching that hair fly when the air kicks on during shedding time.

Glad this helped. We're always looking for new video ideas that people will find helpful, so if there's anything else that'll save you endless internet browsing, let us know!

Thank you! 👍

Congrats on your home! Glad we could help.

Wait, so I'm guessing your hydronic system is gas fired? I'm replacing an oild oil burner so this is for research. PS don't have gas in my community.

How do you heat the hydronic system?

Thanks! Glad you found it helpful.

I thought there is a mandate for UK homes to become CO2 neutral by 2050 or was it 2040? When you don't get really cheap green hydrogen, you are screwed! Compared to heatpumps, hydrogen boilers need somewhere between 5 to 15 times more renewable energy. Remodeling a home with a boiler to be compatible with heatpumps will be very expensive.

What kind did you buy. I am going to get one in the next couple weeks.

@@boxelder9167 MrCool😎

Water freezing can be an absolute disaster if your pump fails - you're absolutely correct. For vacation homes, or if you want the peace of mind, we mix glycol antifreeze with the water -- so if the pump fails, the lines won't burst. We use Alphi-11: fernox.us/product/alphi-11-protector-25l/

@@willplumb I did that in my system to give peace of mind and it caused me problems. The antifreeze is thicker and holds less energy than water does, so it heats up faster in the boiler (in my case a tankless water heater) and doesn't flow as fast. Both combined to cause flashing to steam in the WH and awful screeching noises. Working with the WH manufacturer they asked me to take the glycol out, which helped but the problem did not go away completely. I eventually figured out it was flashing and increased the system pressure to a minimum of 15psi (gets to 40ish when hot)(the manufacturer stated I needed a 15psi pump, not system pressure) and that solved the issue completely. Guessing I could put some of the glycol back in now... I wonder if a salt solution would be a better choice. Sodium Acetate would increase the thermal capacity of the fluid while providing the freeze resistance. I would have to swap to a stainless pump to do it though and it might cause corrosion problems in the zone control valves depending on what the insides are made of.

HRV or ERV with hydronic heat for the win (tight envelope with good insulation). Forced air is terrible. Mini-split is great for smaller applications if the outside temps don't drop too low.

Maybe a bit late, but I put in a Takagi Jr to heat my house. The biggest issue I have is that I bought a cast iron circulation pump. Get a stainless one. The cast iron should stop rusting pretty quickly in a closed system with 02 barrier PEX, but I still get rust chunks and eventually it plugs up the screen on the water heater inlet. I then have to take it out, cover the hole with my thumb while a second person cleans it. Then repressurize the system to at least 15psi, or the water flashes the water to steam and screams. Use a 50psi or 75psi over pressure valve instead of the typical 30psi. I did a single pump to keep the electric costs down. The low setting on a three speed Grundfos seems to be fine for the two zones I currently have running (still installing other zones on a force air removal). The heater has a huge output of 200k BTUs, but I doubt I can get anywhere near that without a much larger pump and the return water is usually pretty hot anyway, which limits the input. As I add zones it will return colder and I may need to kick the pump speed up. I would like to design up a microcontroller to control the pump speed based on how many zones are currently on and the outside temperature. As the temp drops, bump the speed up, or as more zones are one, do the same. The idea being to save pumping energy.

I know this is an late Answer But I'm Curently Running A Hydronic With a Geo and It's Some of the Best heat I've ever Had And the geo I haven't had that many issues neither

@@WTank109 Does the geo heat the water enough? or is it connected to an additional water heater?

You trust the government?

@@Drunken_Hamster lol. My first thought.

Amateur guess: water hold a carries heat better than air.

Your pipes should have a valve that allows air to escape if it becomes trapped. Yours might be broken or install incorrectly or something like that

Cheap initial install price, comfortable (radiant) and high operating costs.

Definitely more in the United States... about 2 to 3 thousand installed for a small unit.

Cuz in America they love to over charge for everything...

i agree 4000 for a mini split is way overpriced unless he is talking about a high btu top of the line model with a con artist installer. i got my senville 9k btu unit for about $694, thats is with taxes and a $50 rebate. the install was about $880 for the unit and about $200 for electrical install. so altogether about $1774. i live in tulsa, ok

Says who? A therm of natural gas (~100k BTU heating power costs me $1) and gas furnaces average about 90% efficient. So it's about $1.11 per 100k BTU of eating. 29 KW of electricity is equivalent to 100k BTU or one therm of natural gas. BUT a heat pump multiplies the heating output over energy input depending on the outdoor temperature. With outside air temperature in the 40s, most mini splits will produce 4 BTUs of heat for every 1 input, this means you'd really only need ~7.25 kWh of electricity to produce 100k BTUs of heat. Nationwide electricity average is $0.13 per kWh or electricity, making it around $0.94 per 100k BTU (about on par with natural gas). However, that's highly skewed since that doesn't take into account the lower electricity costs during winter on average (vs peak of summer) and the fact that most heating is required overnight and most electric companies go by time of day metering and offer discounts for off-peak usage. If you heat your home outside of peak pricing (typically 4-7pm), my local electricity rates during the winter months are $0.057 / kWh during super off-peak (10pm - 8am) and $0.095 / kWh during off-peak (8am-4pm and 7pm - 10pm). That would come out to an average rate of $.075 per kWh, or about 54 cents for 100k BTUs worth of heating (about half the price of natural gas). If outside air temperatures drop much lower (at or around freezing), mini splits may lose efficiency by about a factor of 2 (requiring ~14.5 kWh of electricity to products 100k BTUs of heat) which would bring it about on par with natural gas heating. It's not ideal in very cold or below zero climates, but it's a great solution, especially considering it can provide heating and cooling needs all in one unit (resulting in lower install costs vs standalone heating and air conditioning solutions), especially if people don't have natural gas available in their area and are relying on heating oil (which costs ~3x more than natural gas).

@@GuyOnKZfaq Says everyone in the Midwest. A therm of gas is averaging around $.396. Much less expensive to heat using natural gas.

1. Ignorance. 2. Laziness.