"Stepclimber, what are you doing!?"

No.

... actually

I love a happy ending

mountaineers stream always runs clear

There is no more special feeling than looking down and seeing your shit placement sliding down the rope! My ten foot fall just turned into a forty foot whipper....

thats fascinating. thank you for sharing!

I call BS. No photo...isn't real.

@@stevenstrangeways ah well fair enough but I'm sure I remember this. I do have a mate with some ancient gear so maybe I'll find something from him that proves it.

my favorite is when you find a brand new abandoned cam on a 5.3, and it pops out no problem.

inspect it first. If it looks bomber I use it. If it's really rusty though, maybe back it up. All depends on the situation. There's a red z4 that's been stuck on a 5.9 at the Water Gap for over a year now that we still use.

Just fall test it with a heavy backpack if you're not sure

Damn could have been a whipper then maybe the weather crushed it over time. 🤷🏻‍♂️ There are a few melting in nuts in the trapps I can remember. Lol 😂

@@BetaClimbers Yeah I have no idea. It was there for years, and then someone managed to dig it out. No idea how they did that though. I don't think any of these methods would've done the trick in that particular case.

@@stuff2climb102 there was a WideBoyz video where something like this happened and they felt it was thermal expansion of a huge amount of rock in an offwifth crack.

@@markmagas1982 really? that could be it. Do you know the link for the video by any chance?

@@stuff2climb102 My son tells me it was part of the Pete Whittaker's live tour so it's not a video unless he puts it on the WideBoyz channel after he's finished with his tour. If I do see him mention it I'll pop it back here.

It can be very situational, that crack may only allow one way or the other. Takes a little experience and skill I guess. Thanks for the comment. 🤙🏻 with vertical I would just say it more important to place it at 45 degree or in direction of load. If it’s the first cam there can be two directions of load on it because of the belayer but that’s another story.

@@BetaClimbers Thanks, man. The first piece is always sketchy. I just try not to fall until I have at least three in! I do often use an Edelrid OHM device for weight differentials - that means that first piece has to be bomber and directional; the loading of the OHM will pull the piece upward. Actually, it yanks the hell out of it upwards!

@@ananda_miaoyin interesting never used one myself

@@BetaClimbers I will be doing a sport climb review of it next week. They do not suck at all. Takes about 70 lbs of heat off of the climber during a fall. They do twist the rope a bit and make lowering real slow.

The only references I have is personal and from the experience of some fellow climbers but I will look into if some one has some concrete data on the subject. You could be right some rock types might expand more than others.

Hey thanks for you’re comment. As a civil engineer and a granite trad climber for manny years, I find this situation very unlikely. The volume of rock you would need to have an effect would be very huge and without any cracks execpt the one you are climbing. With a very big thermic differential (multple hours between leader and follower) and thug up passive pros or pitons. In this case, it MAY have an effect (less than a mm). With a cam spring, it is more likely that your cam walk and got stuck. Regarding the concrete evidence, there is not a lot of simularities with rock. The expension in a rock follows the break’s line and in concrete it goes in all directions and it is also affected by rebar. I could be wrong, I would love to see a study on that matter if you find one Josh. Whatever the awnser, if you respect the range of oppening of your camming device, you’ll never have to deal with thermal expension. Sorry for the english quality ✌️

Ohhhh and I forgot, to recover a piece or a booty piece! Add couple of liters of water in the cam. It will go out each time ahah

With tri cams I first use the nut tool to un cam it by pushing the top back in. I then hook the nose and drag out

@@BetaClimbers thanks, Josh! I will try that in a crack where I'm Shure to get it out again anyways. ;⁠-⁠) Mine wandered deeper in and then downwards where it went from the active blocking position in the passive nut position and was stuck there, there's only the option of reversing its path then but I didn't know exactly how it got there and had to figure that out first while the sun went down...

@Burner Burn I do make videos just not on this topic. It's not entitlement to point out that a content creator could say the same thing in less time and in a more clear way. That's called feedback.