I was a Tech for 30 years and saw dozens of stripped out oil pan drain plugs and oil filters so tight they wouldn't come off . These are the reason I change my own oil at age 60 .

Another tip from a mechanic. When you take off the fill cap place it up against the hood latch so if you forget about the cap after you've put all the oil in the engine, you won't be able to close the hood

6:05. If you look closely at the container, they usually show that you should hold it the other way, with the spout at the top. This allows air to get into the container as you pour and it practically eliminates that glug glug glug you get when the air is having difficulty getting into the container.

A couple things I would do differently. I wouldn’t put all 6 quarts in. I go about half a quart shy, and adjust the level based on the reading on the dipstick. I don’t know if you skipped it, but if you jacked your vehicle up and it is not level, you want to lower it back down and make sure it is level when checking the oil level. You should also give your oil time to drain. Remove the drain plug first, then take about 30 minutes to go over all your other checks, don’t put it back in till you’ve replaced the filter. You can often get an additional half to 3/4 of a quart of the old oil out by giving it more time.

I'm 62 years old and still enjoy crawling under my cars to change the oil. I use ramps btw. Much safer than jacks

One additional thing: When removing the old filter, you MUST verify the rubber gasket came off too. (make sure it's not still on the car) Otherwise, when you install the new filter, you'll have two gaskets that are double stacked....very bad.

Just an important heads up... Always point the floor jack straight out away from the vehicle (at a right angle). Lower your jack just to the stand and lock the jack in place as a back up, because like the guy in this video you may be using a jackstand that has been recalled, due to poorly machined components. You can't get caught slipping if you're always evading & gripping!

That’s the correct way to do an oil change. I totally agree with you on doing it yourself. I’ve had all kind of bad experiences with dealers overfilling my engine or not putting enough oil in it. Unfortunately most new cars give you no choice but to let them do the job. Keep up the good work my friend.

Two things amongst many I learned growing up with a mechanic for a dad. 1) that no matter what, you are always holding the flashlight wrong.... 2) how to change my oil

Amateur tip: I wrap a gallon size ziplock bag around the filter as I unscrew it - it catches all the oil. I used this trick on my 2001 Burban, 2007 Acadia and 2007 Mustang. I just used this trick on my first oil change of my 1989 Toyota Supra Turbo - the filter is in an a awkward and tight place - and it worked like a charm. Love your channel BTW - very informative and inspiring.

As a DIY guy, I have a few additional tips. * Warm the engine up first. It doesn't have to be running temperature (scalding hazzard), but it will still flow out better if it's a little hot. * Most (all?) Japanese engines have a horizontal filter. That's no problem and doesn't cause any issues. It's not doing your oil changes regularly that causes problems, If you have a vertical oil filter, prefill it by all means if it makes you feel better. * Take both the sump plug and filter out and let it drain. You saw how much oil was retained in the filter receiver? you want as little of that dribbling back into your sump as possible. * When you jack the car up look which way the sump plug goes. Jacking it one way will usually help the sump drain. The other way will make it retain more oil than it does otherwise... and yes, the design of most sumps will guarantee the retention of some dirty oil. * A DIY job isn't under shop time constraints. Let it drain for half an hour... or whatever. Go and have lunch. The more dirty oil you get out, the less dirt there is in the engine. * Take the 15,000 km between services as a suggestion. A fairly bad one, no matter what oil you use. Oil is relatively cheap, engines not so much. There's plenty of independent mechanics (like Scotty Kilmer) that suggest that short service intervals are good for your engine and will make it last much longer with greatly reduced wear. * Always make sure the filter gasket has not stayed on the receiver when you take the old one off. It's possible for this to get left behind and result in double gasketing, which will lead to a leak and require you to re-do the job, when you eventually figure out what happened. * The correct torque on a filter is to do it up so the gasket just meets the sealing surface, then turn it another 2/3. I've never had a leak doing this, and I've never needed a tool to get the old filter off either. * Lastly, always replace the washer on your sump plug, and yes it should have one. Some manufacturers use a single fibre washer while others use a single copper washer. Keep a supply on hand for oil changes. The copper washers are better, however if the pan is dinged up and won't seal, a fibre wash might save you.

I usually do my own oil changes but occasionally I will let a 'shop' do it, like if I'm getting new tires. The last time I did that, I noticed after doing the next oil change myself, that the tire shop never replaced the oil filter. I put a piece of tape on the oil filter that I last installed and the tape was still there when I did the next oil change. It was there twice as long as it should have been. I feel better knowing that I'm using a high quality oil and filter when I do it myself. No exceptions.

When you take off the filter, when the oil starts to pour out, just let it pour. There is no need to try to get it off while it is pouring out and getting the oil poured down your arm. Wait fir the oil to stop pouring then remove the filter. Then when putting back the filter, it is very important to follow the tightening instructions which usually is in the filter. 3/4 to a full turn after the gasket meets the surface. Do not over tighten because when you do your next oil change you can possibly take off the bolt that the filter screws onto. And it could be a pain to take off. Plus always check the old filter for the gasket. Make sure it is on the old filter and not still stuck to the motor. If it is and you double gasket, it will leak out almost all that 6 quarts, when you start it. And it will leak out fast. You really should address these things. They are very important

4:25. To avoid taking a shower in engine oil, unscrew the filter until oil starts to come out. Remove your hand and let it drip into the pan until very little drip remains. Then unscrew the whole filter.

For those who didn't notice, he had put small magnets on his old oil filter. Those are meant to hold down the iron particles which would've otherwise circulated within the engine.

One thing he should have mentioned when jacking up your vehicle. Never rely on just your jack to hold the vehicle up. Use jack stands. Your seal on your jack can blow causing vehicle to drop.

Here's a good reason why it's best to change your own oil! First of all, I'm 63 now and have always changed my own oil. I live in Az where it gets extremely hot in the summertime. I received a flyer in the mail from a Honda dealership for a free oil change and vehicle inspection. Since it was about 110 degrees out I figured I'd save myself from a very sweaty oil change in the garage and actually go to the dealership for a free one while I sat in their waiting area drinking their iced coffee in 78 degrees. What could go wrong?? After about a 1.5 hr wait the service man comes and gets me and says all ready and gives me the inspection results. Nothing really stood out in the list other than needed a new drive belt which i knew anyway and always do myself. I get home and of course I open the hood to check the oil color ro make sure it looks good and it's filled to the correct level. I couldn't believe what I saw. The oil was very dark and very obvious that the oil change had not been done! By the way, I'm an aircraft mechanic for a major airline, 32 years, and I think I can tell if an oil change has been done or not! I was furious! All that time going to the dealership and waiting and all for nothing! I decided to drain some of the dirty oil into a little plastic container ro have as evidence. I put some clean oil into another like container so I'd have the dirty and clean oils side by side in little containers so I could go back to the dealership to prove my case. I arranged a meeting with the head honcho and went in and told him I was treated like an idiot and done wrong by their dealership. Told him I'm a 30 yr jet mechanic for the world's largest airline and they pulled the oil trick on the wrong guy! Lol. I can laugh at it now looking back on it all! Anyway, he set me up with the service dept manager who wanted to drain the oil in my Honda to see for himself. He came to the same conclusion obviously and apologized repeatedly. I told him I want you to make it right or I'm going to the media and I'll let over 80,000 employees at my airline know about your maintenance practices here at your wonderful dealership. I had a list of things I wanted done complementary by them. The guy was very nice and cooperative and he really did take care of me as I asked for a lot of items to be done free of charge. New serpentine belt, new spark plugs, trans fluid change, brake fluid flush, valve adjustment, OIL CHANGE, cooling system flush, new air cleaners, and tires rotated and an alignment. When I got home I obviously proceeded to check everything that I could ro make sure it had all been done. I was happy to see the engine compartment looked like new! They had even washed that and I even had new high end windshield wipers installed! Moral of the story is that I'll be doing all my oil changes and everything I can do myself as long as I can continue to crawl under my vehicles. Definitely won't take the bait for a free oil change no matter how hot it is outside! I'm sure I'm not the only one they have done that to, no doubt! More reasons to do your own oil changes and beware of ripoff dealerships!

Jiffy Lube destroyed my car during an oil change. Now, I always do it myself.

Always check the dipstick before starting to be sure the oil level is registered. Pouring in 5 quarts without realizing the drain plus isn’t in happens. Run it until warm, let it sit 5 minutes, then check the level and top off as needed. Don’t assume the level just after filling is final.

You did a great job simplifying the job. I suggest you add several important factors. While under your vehicle, this is an excellent opportunities to look around for possible problems not noticeable from above! Second, and very important, after filling the engine, run the engine for approximately 5 mins, while looking under the vehicle for possible oil leaks. They do occur even to the best!

Don't put the drain plug back in until AFTER you have removed the old filter. On some cars, more dirty oil comes out of the drain plug hole after the filter is loosened!

I did that and a full tune up too: spark plugs, air filter, cabin air filter and upper oxygen sensor. The tune up was less $80, pretty good deal! Oil changes are super easy, took me like 20 minutes max.

Another thing to do is to let the engine warm up slightly to get all the cooties into suspension, then drain it. And if you are going to fill the filter before installing it, best to pour the oil into the outer ring of holes so the new oil will go through the filter medium before reaching the engine bearings. If you pour the oil into the center hole and there is some dirt introduced that will go into the engine without being filtered. Good video, Hoss!

The best reason WHY is that many shops tell you they are putting synthetic in, but use cheap oil instead.

One tip is: to remove the filter, if you don't have the tool, you can use sandpaper in your hand, and that will help a lot. If it's too tight and doesn't come out, you can go through it with a screwdriver and turn it (it's the last option). Recommendation: always be fixed there are no leaks, especially by the filter. And never make the mistake of putting oil without having put the screw or the filter, because it usually happens a lot.

I've been changing my oil for years. Saves a little money, I know it was done right, but mostly prevents someone else from overtightening the filter. Had it happen every time I had the oil changed by someone else. On a side note: I just noticed your jack stands. If they were bought at Harbor Freight you might want to check to see if they were recalled for collapsing with a vehicle on them.

In some cases, it also might be a very good idea to wear safety glasses while draining your old oil. For both the filter and drain pan with the drain plug. Also, let your engine cool as much as possible before changing your oil. If not, that oil can be HOT as F sometimes lol. I am speaking from experience because I used to work at Valvoline Oil change.

I haven’t read all of the comments so this may have been touched on. I have been changing my own oil since I first owned a car in the late 60’s. I was always told to warm the engine to allow the oil to have the sediment that may have settled to be in suspension in the warm, hot oil so it drains with the oil, not remaining in the cold engine. Just be aware of the temperature of the oil so you don’t get burned. Also, after starting the motor after the change check for leaks from the filter and drain plug! I always checked, and was glad I did since one time my filter wasn’t installed correctly. I did check and see oil dripping as soon as I started the motor so no harm done except for a small oil spill. One thing I did learn from this video, and appreciate the tip, is to allow the oil to soak into the filter material, then top it off. I always filled the filter, but then immediately installed it.

Always check your oil level prior to starting, and after starting it and shutting off engine.

It's a good idea to always check the oil level before a change in order to alert you to possible oil burning or leakage to look into further.

2 suggestions, you can avoid the oil mess while removing the filter if you let it drip out before removing it completely. You can avoid an oil mess while filling if you turn the bottle the other way. Thanks for sharing!

That truck looks mad clean considering all those years it has on, very good owner

I learned how to change oil when I was 10 years old. Cause growing up my parents couldn't afford to pay someone to change it. As well as doin tune ups and fuel filter and any other repairs we could do with basic hand tools. Glad I learned how at a young age. I've always done my own repairs and oil changes all of my life.

When I was in college, I’ve had mechanics straight up not change my oil and charge me for it. I’ve never trusted mechanics since.

Thanks to KZfaq and the people like you I do almost all the work on my cars!

Hello Jimmy, thx you for sharing your knowledge. I can add to the procedure that before replacing the drain plug, you should go ahead with the oil filter & after replacing the new oil filter, replace the oil drain plug, in that way it will be more efficiently draining as much as you can the old oil. In my case, once I finnish my driving, the day before, I will begin draining the engine while still warm & the day after began the replacement of the new oil & filter. Thx again from Puerto Rico.

Great video! Small tip: removing the filter often lets a little oil escape back into the oil-sump, so I suggest reinstalling your drain plug after you removed the filter, when everything is open and drained out

If you want the job done right, do it yourself 👍

First time I have come across your video. I like your clear no nonsense, no clowning, no funny antics, clear, easy to understand presentation style. Thank you. This is exactly how I have done my oil changes many times. I liked your caution of supporting the weight of the car on a secure prop. One suggestion though: best to fit a new sealing ring to the oil plug, or use something like Permatex liquid gasket, or you might find drops of oil on your garage floor, and have to re-seal the plug.

The major flaw in this video is suggesting you can get 15k oil and be good for that long when in fact that is a terrible idea, largely because you have to change the filter much sooner than that.

Good video at a very general level. For those who are novices, it would be worth adding a comment about the possible need to change the sum plug copper washer, especially if it is a crush type, also, note the possibility that the old rubber seal on the old oil filter may stay stuck on the mount - if this happens then the new filter will not fit properly and oil will go everywhere (this has happened to me), and finally, I couldn't believe you would drive the truck without checking the oil level first??

I always do my own work because I know it'll be done correctly. Do my own brakes and tire rotation too.

I don't know if I missed it, but it is best to warm up the vehicle (and the oil in it) for a few minutes before turning off and starting the job. Oil will flow out more easily when warm and any thicker "sludge" will drain more thoroughly. Just make sure you haven't got it too hot by putting a hand on the filter first! I also leave it with the drain plug out and the filter off for 20mins or so, before putting the plug and new filter back - you'll get even more of the thicker deposits out this way (you're not paying for someone's time). Obviously the other comments re the plug washer and the filter gasket are critical too. Make sure the vehicle is on level ground when determining the final oil level by dip stick.

One tip when changing engine oil, put the front of the vehicle on ramps, not only for safety reasons but also because it tilts the oil sump backwards towards the sump drain plug, which allows for all the oil to come out, whereas jacking up the car on one side makes the oil in the sump move away from the sump drain plug leaving a small amount of dirty oil remaining in the sump !

I was at a major repair shop hanging out at the garage door waiting for my truck. I watched them take an empty 50 gal. barrel away and replace it with a new one. I could see the label said it was 5w-30 conventional oil. They simply put a magnet label that said 5w-30 synthetic oil over the real label. Change your own oil.

Great job,I do my own as well at 71 years old then it is done right and clean.

Love changing the oil on my Mercedes. I have a vacuum extractor that simply connects to the dipstick tube. Sucks it all out without spilling a drop. It’s how the engineers designed it to be done. Tests show it pulls more oil out that using the drain plug. Oil filter is up top of the engine, so that is easy peasey too. It’s fun! I look forward to doing it.

I've never experienced the o ring sticking to the filter adapter in 42 years of wrenching. I never install a new filter without lubing the o ring with clean motor oil, and wiping the adapter mating surface clean. I can see it sticking if it was put on without being lubed as it would be stuck to the filter adapter and wouldn't be spinning off with old filter but rather would seperate from the filter base. But then again I don't experience any of the problems that many on the internet would insist will happen, for example: 2001 Dodge Cummins HO 6sp, 250k miles on original clutch, never had a unit bearing failure (still the originals, periodically lubed through ABS sensor port) or death wobble. 2000 Jeep Cherokee XJ 160k miles, never overheats, no unit bearing failures, no death wobble.

This is very true. After 2 oil changes at a local quick lube that starts with a W, the tech says "there's alot of sludge under the cap." He showed me the cap and yellow sludge. Since then I always change the oil myself. Convenience isn't always worth it. Never had sludge build up problems again. Couldn't even say if they actually changed the oil at all. Now I know for sure I got 5 clean quarts and a new filter all of my liking.

I just changed my own oil for the first time yesterday after having a bad customer service experience at the local quick change shop. Never going back

It's important to make sure that the glove compartment lid swings open and close easily, and that the dome light if functioning properly before and after you change your oil!

I have the same exact Suburban, but mine is a 2003. I hope you don’t mind, but Now I’m going bing-watch every single video that you have on your Suburban. Thanks, ❤

You got it 1ROAD, I am now 67 and have been changing my own vehicles oil since I was about 12. ( Seems like it ) I don't trust oil changing places and they are known for OVER tightening the filter and drain plug. I worked in a body shop for years. Seen that a lot.

Two things you should have done, first Check the oil level of the dip stick to see if your engine is somehow consuming oil, if the oil is low by a couple of quarts before you drain the oil, see if the engine is leaking oil, look for spots of oil on the drive way, or if the engine is eating oil. you may need to change oil a little more frequently. because of slightly worn engine rings, also look at the condition of the oil. see if it is more dirtier than normal, also check the engine oil level after the engine has run for a few minutes to make sure that the oil level is on the money.

Nice and clear. I always change my own oil and filter. Then I know it's been done and with quality products and not just any old rubbish the garage has on hand.

I agree with u 100% because some of those garages put cheap or recycled old oil God knows on your engine. I'm not trying to bad-mouth those garages out there but I went through that experience. That gives a bad testimony for those good garages that do good work. I learn the hard way, but I DO IT ON my own. Thanks for the video. Have a nice day

i just did my first oil change, which was not that messy as i suspected as i used R. Kirkwood's tip about zip lock bag which definately reduced my mess to quite a lower level. thank you so much for such an informative yet easy to understand video.

Since I use synthetic oil I don’t trust shops they probably put their cheap shop oil and charge you for synthetic

I watched the video and was impressed. You did a good job. It was educational from the start to the end.

Awesome video, and awesome explanation, i just loved it !!

Good presentation. I can tell you've done this job many times before. I'd like to ad a couple more tips for novices at this job. 1.Make SURE you only use the proper weight and service schedule oil. Don't guess. If you engine is specified for Dexos oil, use ONLY Dexos labeled oil. 2.Flatten out a cardboard box and place it under the drain pan. Have enough cardboard extending beyond the pan, at least a foot in every direction but more is better. Dirty black oil is difficult to get completely off your driveway. Always have a rag handy under there. 3. ALWAYS wear safety glasses when working under a vehicle no matter what you are doing. The tiniest spec of crud in your eye can be quite painful and it is everywhere under a vehicle. 4.Drain plug: Only use the right size combination wrench (1 open end and 1 box end) to remove/install the plug (a socket wrench is OK also if it is the right size, short ratchet only). DO NOT use an adjustable wrench, vise grips or pliers. I would caution novice mechanics to be very careful installing the drain plug. Do not over torque. Snug and a tug should be plenty of torque. Cross threading the plug is a very common mistake doing this job. That's why they sell oversize, self tapping plugs at auto parts stores that may or may not leak. Avoid this conundrum. 5.Also, I wouldn't use the long neck funnel except when filling trans oil. A short funnel drains thru faster. The oil bottles are designed so that if you pour the oil out with the opening of the bottle with the opening higher than the rest of the bottle (counter intuitive I know), you don't get that glug, glug, slosh. This is the design intent of the bottle. You can pour it out faster and have more control of the oil flow. 6. NEVER use the oil filter wrench to install the filter. Hand tight ONLY. 7.After you have all but about the last half of a quart in the motor, start the engine for about 30-45 seconds then shut off. Wait about 10 minutes for all the oil to drain down from upper areas inside the engine to the oil pan. Check the oil and top off carefully. NEVER over fill an engine with oil beyond the intended capacity. It can cause oil seal leaks and on some engines oil consumption/smoking. If it calls for 5 quarts and you just dump in 5 quarts, you can overfill the oil because all the old oil may not have drained out or the new oil filter may have a slightly different capacity than the one you took off. Better to be slightly short of full than to over fill. 8. Wipe away any spilled oil off of engine and any other component it my have spilled on. Make sure oil fill cap is installed correctly and tight, same for dipstick. Thoroughly wash your hands with soap and water. Sorry this is longer that I expected but in 50 years of working on cars I have made or fixed every one of these mistakes at least once. Work smarter, not harder.

Always do it yourself.....this way you know it's done correctly!!!!!!...

That pre-fill is a good idea! Thanks!

Best video by far… you’re very detailed.

"I change my own oil whenever humanly possible" Me too. At least five times a day.

Just a thought---after removing the old filter, look to see if the gasket is still on it.

This is a great video and i fully agree with you, changing ones own oil allows us to choose the oil that we want to put and that is awesome!

I've done my own oil changes for years and always use good synthetic oil. A few additions you may want to add. Parts stores will give a good discount if you buy 6 or 12 filters at once. Drain plug seal - check it and replace if required, note; sometimes they stick to the oil pan. Filter seal - make sure the old seal comes off with the old filter - my sister had a shop change her oil and the old seal stayed in place then they had a double seal with the one on the new filter, it was leaking bad. Oil level check on the dip stick, I did not see you do it. I recommend after the start up that you shut it off and let it drain down 10 minutes then check the level and add if required. (usually one beer is a good wait time period). Lastly disposal, mark your empty jug "old oil" when done and pour the old oil in it and take to recycling depot for free disposal of hazardous waste. Cheers

Instead of an auto parts drain bucket, I used a cheap plastic cat little box from Wal Mart. It's a little bigger, which helps catch oil from the drain and the filter.

I am always shocked by my friends that never change their own oil. Even on my Harley Davidson I do it myself. The places that do oil changes don't hire MIT grads to change oil. Remember that. These kids can't even pull their pants up and you are trusting them with changing your oil. It takes 30 minutes at the most and you get the personal satisfaction that it was done right.

i also like to look around while im under there. last oil change i found a transmission leak. got it fixed before anything got "noticeable". counting my blessings on that one!

I always do my oil changes myself.I drive an f350 superduty with a diesel engine. The truck has high ground clearance so its very easy to go underneath it.When putting the oil drain plug back in I always use a torque wrench set to the proper torque setting.The best thing about doing oil changes yourself is satisfaction the the job was done right.

I agree 100% with this guy , do your own oil change . How many F150 EcoBoost owners lost their skid plates or the dealer forgot to put it back properly .

Ya gotta love KZfaq, especially for the DIYer! The comments and tips that follow are great!

Very impressed on the emphasis on jackstands. 🤔👍 I do my own. After filling, start up check for leaks. Shut down and clean up (about 15-20 mins) THEN recheck oil level.

I would put some wheel chocks around at least one back tire before you get under the vehicle. Also emphasize to set the emergency brake. I like using redundant jack stands so my life doesn't depend on one Harbor Freight jack stand.

But a five quart jug, not separate quarts, will save you money too.

Thank you for confirming what I've been saying. I change oil with, brand, weight, amount and filter that I choose; tighten bolt safely, clean; inspect; check and take used oil to shop for recycling FASTER than just dropping off, let alone picking up, paying and arguing about my 'suggested repairs!'

I agree, in my youth I always changed the oil in my vehicles, especially in the military with access to hobby shops and lifts. I haven't done it in 30 years, but after not being certain the dealership actually changed the oil in my car the last visit, I decided to take it over myself. Ford offered several free oil changes, but the last time I was in the car was sitting in the parking lot for the longest time, then suddenly it was in the drive and supposedly ready. Once I got home, I pulled the dipstick and the oil didn't look fresh so not certain it was ever changed. With a set of ramps, I easily changed it myself recently, and I allowed it to drain for 15 minutes, something I doubt is ever done in any service bay.

I've been changing oil in my own vehicles all my life. I never thought to add oil into the filter B4 screwing it back into the engine. I like it & will be doing that from now on knowing the4 filter element will be fully absorbed with oil B4 I start the engine. I prefer my 3 jaw gear driven filter wrench in preference to the type you used. I drive my car up onto ramps then chalk the rear wheels B4 proceeding. Warm Regards from Reno, Nevada

One of the most simple maintenance tasks you can do on your car but probably the most vital. I always change my own oil and you're right...it is very rewarding

I've been changing my oil for decades for multiple reasons. I own 5 vehicles so maintenance costs can climb. I can use a higher grade oil and filter than the oil change places use. My ramps are set up so I can do the job as fast as 15-20 minutes in some cars. My local car parts store takes the old oil so its convenient. I also do tune-ups, brakes and all minor jobs as a 65 yo DIY'er

Small thing you didn't mention is... Disposing of the used oil. First you need a container that will hold the 6 plus quarts of oil. You can take it to your local auto parts store for recycling. It is a little more effort but the piece of mind that you know the job was done right is very rewarding and something not to worry abought. If you don't plan on keeping the car for a long time take to the oil change place. The tools and jack and jack standS are something you should already own.

Incredible video. Thanks!

Thanks Jimmy Tip. Use a medium ziplock freezer bag pushed up over the filter after you loosten it a bit. Push the bag all the way up and slowly unscrew. The oil runs down into the bag. Works great on my 5.7 hemi where the filter is buried and drains on everything without the bag.

I already know how to change my oil but, your video is so good that I just want to watch how to change the oil and learn again. Thanks for the great video!

I was always taking my car to The Shop for Oil Change every 5k and Pay for Good Quality High Price. and 4 week ago I did make a Oil Changed for my Car at Home And I realy surprise that Oil Filter look very bad. Thich Much very Dark Back old drity. Look like The Shop Never Change Oil Filtet for my Car for long time that could Destroy the Engine. and I decided to do my own Oil Chang at home. Now the sound of my Car engine is quite and running very good. Thanks for this Great Video.

Thanks for sharing brother 🙏

Thanks Jim for a quick and no mess around oil change lesson. If you were my school teacher, a way back in the day, who knows what job position I may have found myself in. many thanks.

Another couple tips. I always run the engine for a bit and check for leaks. While it's running, I take a photo of the mileage and the oil & filter containers. Then I email myself those photos along with any other notes like the drain plug size and whether or not I changed the air filter. I often look up my email while shopping for the new oil and filter. Plus the email dates the oil change. It's kind of handy since I have 3 vehicles to take care of. Kind of nerdy but it works well.

ℹ️ Thank you very much for your video!!! Since dealership wants $185 for oil change, I started to change oil myself. It cost me only $35 for 5 litres of Toyota oil and $9 for Toyota oil filter!!! DIY is THE BEST!!! Thank you again!!!

Right on Bro!!! Higher quality oil and filters, plus no over tightened filters or stripped drain plugs!

Just the way I do it, I fill more safer doing it like this, thanks for taking time to show others how, good job young man.

I never screw my oil filter on “as tight as I can”. Screw the filter on until it makes contact and then only turn it about one 1/4 to 1/2 turn from there. Any tighter and you will have a mother of a time getting the old filter off (I never have to use a wrench to get my filters off, btw).I’ve been doing this for over 40 years and I learned this from mechanics I ran with back in the day. I will agree that doing your own oil change is a smart thing to do.

U have my ^5 for filling new filter cartridge with oil. Good work!

Awesome advise on the oil change

should of checked the dip stick to make sure the oil was at the proper level

Pro tip, unscrew the oil filter first before drain plug. Or at least before you put the drain plug back in, extra oil often drains to the pan when you remove the filter

Thank you Very Much, what an incredible video!!

Very educational. Thanks sir👍👍