Wow, thank you!

interesting, thank you

True. You really should've changed your motor step size on a square the same size as the print bed Making it have more steps/mm also would've made your ID grow as well!

Much better is to switch the wall order to "outer first" which greatly improves dimensional accuracy of holes and everything in general. Tradeoff is that overhangs come out a bit worse. But if you don't have steep overhangs, definitely use that setting.

Nice, You should be able to get above 2000 accel and near 200mm/s once you have installed klipper

I haven’t played with the Neptune, but if anyone want to send me a free one, I’ll compare them!

oh, that’s really interesting. I’ll have to look into that. thanks.

yeah, this one was whipping out 17 minute benchies with no issues!

done, thank you

I haven't played with either of the others you mentioned so can't compare, but the KP3S Pro seems really nice for the price

Glad it was helpful!

Hi, thanks. I don't have my profile for download as I find they vary even between printers of the same model. I'd suggest that you start with the default profile and then increase acceleration by 100mm/s/s on a test print until you find the limit - then do the same with speeds but only increase by 20mm/s. after about 6 or so prints you should have a nice fast profile. Changing filament: I do the same as you, but if you're having a blockage, you might want to do the change at a lower temperature (say 170 degrees c) which will keep the filament much more intact but should still be more than hot enough to allow you to pull it out

I've gotten into the habit with my printers and with the KP3S Pro especially due to the funky PTFE lined heat break, of extruding about 10mm of filament before pulling the filament out. This gets rid of the "hot" filament sitting in the heat break that likes to leave behind strings and blobs of partially melted filament. I heat to 170c, depress the extruder tensioning arm, manually push the filament out about 10mm, then quickly pull the filament out of the hot end. You'll feel the resistance change as the warmed filament leaves the tube and gets replaced with the cooler filament you just quickly pushed in. I haven't had a single clog since starting this.

@@blakewaters4063 I was doing the same as you but some (random) times, the extruder is blocked. Thats the reason I asked about how to do that. Thank you for the answer

good evening. I used a normal 0.4mm nozzle in this video. the stops are linked in my previous videos.

have you seen my video from last year on simple inverse kinematics? I explain exactly that there!

Yeah i seen that its easy and food but i am working on a humanoid robot kf 18dof so while walking I don't able to understand where to start , its become complex can you suggest where i can learn more about this

The problem I've found is different filaments require different settings, so I find it easiest to adjust it in cura and then I can have a different profile for each filament. You can do it using Marlin by sending the M92 command. I normally do this to make sure all my printers have the same baseline, and then set the flow in cura on a per filament basis.

@@roTechnic thanks. I just opened my Kingroon the other day. My first try the wiring coming out of the extruder pinched between the vertical support and the extruder making a grinding noise because it couldn’t hit the end point. Not sure if that was the cause but once I figured that out mine misses the bed on its initial clean out stripe on the side. Just spits the filament off the side. 1) is there a way to adjust the X starting point so the filament goes on the bed? 2) if I hit home ALL the extruder lines up before the bed in both X and y directions so the tip is not touching the bed. Is that normal? How do I adjust I’d not. My Ender is not like that. 3) if I level on the center point it’s not quite exactly the center of the bed. Should it be? 4) when I used the five leveling points, I get all four corners perfectly level with the paper test only to find out the dead center was way too tight. Not sure how this is possible or how to fix it. It doesn’t even seem possible unless the bed sags everywhere but the middle. I’m am experienced at proper distance between extruder and bed and leveling. You can help me with any of those questions. I’d really appreciate it. I’m kind of stuck.

@@roTechnic I've been messing with this all day. My Z is good on the 20mm test cube. The X and Y are short (19.7mm). I have tried to adjust the "flow" all the way to 110% and 120% yet it changes nothing on the next test cube. I am reslicing and resaving to the disk between prints. I don't understand what i am doing wrong. Also, the wall thickness never changes either. It always printing .4 whether set to .4 or the stock .44. It doesn't seem like anything i am changing is applying.

Do you still need help?

@@TuncayAyhan Yeah that'd be great. It's always good to learn new things

For parts that don't mesh together (basically anything but gears & cycloids) I just add a 0.2mm tolerance by using push/pull on each surface. For gears and anything else which needs a tight tolerance I tend to leave it as is and use the settings in this video to make sure that they fit. Occasionally I'll need to go back and shrink the part in fusion using push/pull on the surfaces, but to be fair I haven't had to do that in a while. that's why I like these settings so much!

@@roTechnic Thanks!

I'd never heard of Odysee before! Is there much demand for this kind of content there?

yeah, that was my first impression too!