Happy to help as always. ;)

thanks, always happy to help.

Excellent, thank you, glad I was able to help. (also, awesome user name/thumbnail). :) - Thanks for commenting, watching and subbing!

That's awesome to hear, glad to help as always. :)

Awesome, I always love it when the vids align with people's projects.

Happy to help as always :)

Excellent, always glad to help :)

I second this: Seeing the palette is a gift from G-d.

I am going to make sure to include it whenever possible from now on as I realized seeing the paint might certainly help.

Also, happy to help as always.

Happy to help as always.

I am guessing that is about what I have recorded at least - which seems scary to even me. ;) - But thank you, glad you find the tutorials helpful and I am always happy to assist with questions.

Excellent, happy to help as always. :)

Glad I could help!

You could, but you would need an incredibly sharp brush and a very light touch, as they wouldn't really be visible at this scale, but if you can have a faint (very faint) lines that are very thin, it could be done. As to baby poop, yep, it would be great, perfect color for such a purpose. Thanks for watching and glad to help as always.

Thank you, happy to help. :)

Glad to help as always sir, thanks for watching.

Anyone playing Salamanders in 40k would love it. Their skin tone is black so pretty similar to Drow I would think

I am happy to add it to the list, I am sure it could be useful for many or just an interesting alternate skin tone.

Sure, I have some of those on the list as well, goliath grey could be very fun.

Happy to help as always. :)

Do you mean the white to black transition? That is just Zenithal highlighting, I have many videos on that. Here is one for example - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gJOUhLheybmykWw.html

@@VinceVenturella The purple-ish contrast you've got going there :) Thanks for the link I'll look into it :)

I don't know Cadian fleshtone exactly, but I remember it being a little more tan. You may want to start with something a little more pale and/or mix with the white itself as your mid-tone, but yes, that could definitely work.

I was not sure about the color, my notes were not around, but I believe something more tan will work better as an undercoat. When you say midtone, do you mean after the tan undertone you can glaze with tan white, later on finishing with white glaze? I think a video reply would work best for trying to explain this all. Should I just make a video and link it to you somehow? Email might work, but it is not the safe option.

Sure, it's why I'm generally working over a zenithal for these purposes.

@@VinceVenturella I do the same, but I meant spraying inks from below where there is no grey undershade. I mean there could be grey if you don't mind that the shadows aren't too deep, but contrast is generally king so the darker the better.

Yes indeed. :)

I do reviews through the tier of my patreon, you can find the link in the newer videos. :)

Awesome, glad to help as always.

Sounds about right, as long as it's close, you'll be just fine. :)

I tried and SG goes great but it´s better to use flayed one flesh instead of kislev. Or so I think haha

So I have a video coming soon for undead flesh (it's oils, but the colors would be the same). With undead flesh, the key is so subtract the reds, and add in purples, greys or greens. As to highlights, I think you are on the right track. Adding a desaturaed cold blue is a very valid way to go. You can still keep the shadows warm with a purple, and then a little bit of very. very subtle green glazes can go a long way. I would honestly avoid the all over wash at the end. That brown is too warm. You could use it for some light stippling to simulate more rotten or dirty parts of flesh.

@@VinceVenturella awesome! Thanks for the insight

Nope, same tricks will work.

This was a fun one, these two often occur together in the same armies. :)

Mixing in ice yellow or similar lighter colors will get you to good places

Yep, also just a way to make sure the hand touching the miniature area is covered (oil and such).

I covered it in this video here - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hJ5ogdd5s9PeYYU.html

It is easy to remember that is for sure. :)

I hope it helps, practice is the key, trying and failing is always the best way to learn.

@@VinceVenturella it has especially your nmm when you show how to do wet blending it really helped me get confident enough to try display models

So it varies with some of the colors, but the general story with them (and frankly all Scale 75) is that they're fairly naturally transparent. They really aren't meant to work over black (and as a general rule, I don't ever recommend painting over straight black, I always work over a zenithal). Their natural transparency means they work best over a lighter undertone where more of the true color can show through. These paints are great for glazes and for that type of work, if you are really needing to reset a color with a high opacity paint, in general, these aren't great for that.

@@VinceVenturella Great feedback, thanks a lot for responding. I understand about the black undercoat, it was just a test model, it's usually not what I would do either, it was just very apparent that they couldn't cover it at all and that's why I was suddenly wondering if there was something wrong with them. I tried on a more creamy white undercoat with the Hellbound flesh and it was much better, started playing a bit with it and I think I understand them a bit more, as you say they are more glazes, you build up effect by their transparency and blending. It's a very different paint style than what I'm used to. I'm thinking maybe a light grey/lidt purple undercoat will do the trick then for decaying flesh, and work the paints on from there following your technique. Sepia/camoshade also works very nice for that disgusting shade. I'm working on finding good methods for skin/flesh/tentacle nastyness for 40k Death Guard/Nurgle by the way, that's why I came across this and Scale75, there was a lot of interesting colours in those Fantasy and Games packs. Again thanks for the feedback.

You're not wrong, all brown is sort of a lie, as it's always distilled from other colors (usually red or orange) and this one does steer very much toward red.

Sure, that's a great color for green for flesh.

Sure, do you mean darker, non-Caucasian skin tones or more putrid - like green, rotting flesh?

I feel like he had to be around before this, but I don't know for sure. ;)

Yep, the green base is a canvas trick, I use it on some minis as well as it makes a rich base tone. I know Soshie's she does great work. You are right, in the end, there are many, many ways to do flesh.

Nice. :)

There are always a few. :)