That sounds like an awesome trick, I will have to give that a try sometime. :)

Yep, I mean that was in my head this whole video of course. :)

Yes, it's a really tough technique to show on a video, as it's tiny (TINY) dots, done hundreds of times in just slightly varying colors. The end effect when it all comes together is wonderful, but whew, it's a time investment. :)

thank you, happy to help as always. :)

Thank you, happy to help as always.

Thank you sir, happy to help as always. :)

I absolutely do. If you watch my video on distressed leather, I do almost exactly that.

I know, this one was a real challenge, the dots are micro small and I just couldn't really capture them well, though I was hoping that a good explanation and seeing me do it would still give the overall impression on how to do it, but this was a tough one.

Yep, you really can get some awesome effects depending on the material. Gladto help as always. :)

Thanks, I hope it was helpful, even though it was a little tough to see. :)

Yep, Gareth Nichols uses this a lot on cloaks and it looks great.

So I haven't seen anything I use cause rust in any way, even after years. My general advice would be something like Scale 75 Inktensity chesnut, or some form of darker brown ink. It has a transparency and gloss that will allow the shine through but adds wonderful color tones.

You sure can. :)

There will be more on that very soon. Yes, we will have them for sale.

It should be next Saturday. It's a good idea, I actually want to shuffle the playlists some and make some "courses' as there is several things that could be broken out into groups that might be more helpful to follow.

Vince Venturella Ive been working my way from the top of the list to the bottom, guess I better hurry up with that then !

Basically, you just need a very sharp brush and lots of patience and very, very small dots, If you look at Gareth Nichols work on LOTR figures, you will see this technique in play.

@@VinceVenturella thanks a ton for the reply!

Awesome, glad YT is coming through. :) (Also, they are all in a playlist if you need to ever find anything).

Sure, this is the sort of thing Kirill and Dave Colwell do, but of course, there is no one right way, as always. It's about your way.

Oh yes, sure, I don't know that there is ever a level where you stop making corrections. What changes is how often and the nature of the correction. So know, what often happens is I am making small corrections, changing a small area and just repainting a bent line or a shape or something like that rather than the whole thing, but I do freehand on nearly everything I paint, so after a few thousand minis, you build up a little more experience with it.:) I would say being willing to correct is actually the great secret to freehand at a high level, because you are always going to need to correct and shape it with the color around it.

That's a great idea, I will post it up this weekend.

LOL Micky!

Yeah, the HBA red got a little over liquefied on the palette. Tom is still safe...for now.

It depends on how weathered you want it to look. If you're going for something that's a lot more weathered and worn, I would actually recommend his tutorial on how to paint distressed leather; the finished look is really quite amazing.

I agree,it just dependson what you are wanting from you leather. you can even combine the Distressed leather with a little bit of this in spots to create some variation. Stippling is generally a great technique as a component of leather, wool, old metal, lots of stuff. :)

You can, but keep in mind scale. By that, I mean that with this bust being the size and scale it is, the stippling made the texture appear more subtle and, some would say, "realistic" whereas on something the size of your average Space Marine miniature (Primaris or otherwise) the technique will produce something that's a lot more exaggerated and the cloth with therefore look a lot rougher and coarser; this is just the nature of applying the technique on things of different scales.

I agree with TheRunesmythe, but yes, if you look at Gareth Nichols work on Instagram, he uses this on cloaks quite frequently and keeps the dots micro small and at the highlights, it produces a wonderful effect on the space marine cloaks.

Thanks guys

The sponge isn't accurate enough unfortunately for this particular application. You can certainly do light weathering stippling with a sponge (in fact, that can be a good way to do it), but it will be often be the case that you have to get in there in a much more controlled fashion across the color spectrum.

Generally I like Warcolours Flow Improver, but you can pick up liquitex flow improver from your local craft store, it's great and will last forever.

@@VinceVenturella I have Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver. Can that be used? Or would the Vallejo Thinner Medium be better?

@@d.usagi.75x51 Yep, that would work fine.

It was a limited edition model from AMPCA, unfortunately, it's no loner available.

@@VinceVenturella ah, Thanks for the heads up :) You're awesome!

I think I remember seeing it as one of Ouroboros miniatures Kickstarters after they did the cyborgs.

I got mine from Dallas Madill and cannot remember the company name. Great bust...

Yes, its Noriko from AMPSA. I did a product review on it and if you look at that video, I have the link to the store to buy it. :)