Deadhead systems can improve vapor lock reduction by adding a fuel filter from a mid 70’s Cadillac, added between regulator & carb. It has a return bleed outlet that returns a small amount of fuel to the tank. This helps purge fuel vapor & increases fuel flow at low speed, keeping the fuel cooler.

OMG! This video was such a great help in trying to figure out whats been going on with my fuel system on my motorhome not getting fuel to my carb. Very informative! Thank you so much.

Great information! Thank you for taking the time.

Stayed to the end very informative it helped me with my return dilemma thank you

Enjoy your videos I stay to the end and every time I learn something new. Old school all the way got a 93 f150 302

Brother I stayed till the end and became a new subscriber!! Thanks for explaining this!! IM new to the world of electric fuel pumps and started drawing out how to make a return setup work with a carb. I was pretty close. Thanks for the detailed vid!🏁🏁🏁

Good work and very well explained....Thank you

Just went through the same exact situation. Wish I would have researched it first. But didn’t even know they made these. But I had three of them layin around. My head was spinnin.

I watched the whole video.. It helped me fix my problem . thanks

Very interesting, I did not know 2 regulators where made, I went out to my race car and I have a dead head regulator and I do a return line to the tank, I have been having erratic fuel pressure, time to get the return regulator thanks for the info.

Thanks for the info. Taught me something!

watched the whole lecture and learned a lot and it should help with my 1967 firebird issue

Thank you very much for the info.

very good information 👍🏾

I stayed to the end good vid

I've always had problems with fuel boiling with dead head and tried everything to make it work. Moving lines, spacers whatever. Put in a return and it's all good. Using a holley blue pump too. Way less strain on the pump now too. Found a few forum posts on converting the 803 holley dead head reg into a bypass reg and haven't had any issues yet.

Great news my friend it makes sense

Not sure about ur video...But it go me thinking too saying that I too am always wanting to learn. New subscriber & liked. Keep them coming Yazmin Venice Beach ⛱

Thanks I just put a carbed 355 into an 89 TPI iroc-z. I left the tpi pump in the tank and I'm having trouble returning fuel fast enough.

Great info 👍

You did good thanks for the tip

Cool brother! I always make it to the end! Haha I love experiments teaches us so why not .... I have the deadhead system on mine and dang it really does work a fuel pump! Once it’s pressured up you can hear that pump screaming saying come on man drive me lol ....

That was very helpful

Thx for sharing!

Hello, great Info! Did you figure out what the little plastic debris was that was restricting the flow? Thanks and Cheers from Motown.

I want to put a bigger cam and a water pump and distributor delete on my LT1. What setup is best for cam and crank signals. Thanks , I would appreciate your input.

This is true for so many parts. so similar but just different enough to fuck ya over. it gets REALLY tiring, especially with bad new parts and incorrect listings, etc..

Not to nitpick, but on your chalkboard schematic you should show the fuel lines in the correct sides of the regulator. You have them coming out of the top of the regulator.

I'm battling a 30' motorhome with a 454 on a 1983 C30 chassis, with a bastardized fuel system. It needed a water separator to run on cheap gas, and a bigger pump to go up really steep hills. Then, they put in a puny return line that worked with the original puny pump. The answer appears to be to use a return regulator, followed by a dead head regulator to keep from over-pressuring the system when idling down really steep hills - when the return pressure will be maximum, yet the return fuel has to go UP through a smaller tube. No one seems to want to talk about fuel systems for looong vehicles having really BIG engines - and RV-factory plumbing. If the RV factories only hired a real genuine mechanical engineer, we wouldn't have these problems. Your thoughts? Steve

I was looking at this video what motor were you running then, i just noticed it?

I had one of those. It has a tiny hole inside. So why do we run giant fuel hoses and force everything thru the tny whole ? Kinda defeats the purpose dontcha think.

Im in need of help i just switched my 89 tbi to a carburetor and put a holley fuel pump to supposedly regulate the amount of psi of fuel to my carb by itself and i watch my clear view filter to see it just sucks a lil bit of fuel not enough pressure to keep flowing to my carb. Im pretty new to all of this some help would be awesome

2 year old vid and I hope you figured out how to run the cooler with this set up on my sbc I use a similar cooler but not to cool the fuel before it goes back to the tank but before it goes into the carb so I am running a high pressure pump to the cooler and the from the cooler to the regulator which I have dialed in at 7.5psi and that way the carb is getting cooler fuel and so is the tank and works like a charm!

i’ve got a 1986 chevy c10 and i’m trying to use the carburetor i have but as diagram c instead of diagram a like i have it right now. can you do a vid on how to convert a to c

heres a question for ya , I have a 78 chevy truck , Im thinking about pulling the float assembly out the tank and adapting an internal fuel pump.. It shouldnt be hard to do ... what I cant figure out is how electricity in gas doesnt explode... But have you heard of anyone adapting their old system over to what Im wanting to do....? Oh Subscribed

I have one that’s says part number 362146 Holley not sure if it is a return one or not having a hard time figuring it out.

I learned new things

If you take ⅜ hose and blow water through it... It's gonna flow the same regardless of its shape... unless it flows up, then gravity on the weight of the fluid could cause back pressure at a certain point..(thats irrelevant in this scenario) what im saying is i think either the inlet, outlet or I.D. of the coil in that cooler was restricting it all along. The delta p from fluid friction in that spiral isn't the issue. It's nearly immeasurable.

How is your pressure regulator being held up like that?

I want to see the experiment with both the regulators in use do you put the dead head after the return style reg

Question , Ive been out of the mechanics scene for a long while, do you think a Holley electric fuel pump is good for the street ? longevity? Thanks

Putting a one gallon fuel cell for my nitrous. Am debating if i need to put a reture system. Tank. The tank is in the front

What size return line are you running, is it bigger than feed line?

Hey man can you help me out with a fuel injected setup? Can't find any information and trying to learn where to put the regulator. MMR fuel rail kit came with an adapter for newer Mustangs regulator. So basically its return style, two fuel rails. Do I T the incoming fuel and hook directly to each rail, then link the rails with the regulator in between? Or do I put the regulator right on the inline hose, connect it one rail, then just hook the rails to each other from there?

Nice

i have a bypass12-887 i have a vacumm port outlet on it do that line have to be hook up

Question: installed e elec fuel pump (internal regulated to 7psi or 90gph at 5psi) and later also a return line regulator. I know a regulator is not needed but it is how it is right now. I wonder if the reg will ever free the return line which this low number of pressure from the pump. What do you think?

Can i block the return no return line

I needed this because I never ran a return, but I'm confused by the last option. It comes from tank to pump to carb to regulator to tank? If you had to buy a fuel system from scratch would you go carb or FI?

I just made that same mistake! Aahhhh.

I don't understand option C. How can you place the fuel regulator AFTER the carb if it's not regulating pressure to the carb? What's the point?

Am sorry to say it old cars carburator and electrical fuel pumpe never and ever work together makes only headaches. Back to the old days sorry for that experiences talks🤣👍

Watched all

Fuel tank venting for next video

is you return line the same size as your fuel intake line? im setting one up now on a 454 6an (3/8 ) fuel line in , out and return

The restriction in the straw theory doesn't hold water the inside diameter of the straws are not apples and apples your going to have restriction trying to push same volume of water through smaller orifice of spiral straw, has nothing to do with spirals. Your restriction in your system is more to do with inside diameter of smallest area internal more that any turns, and bends even though they may create a very small parasitic resistance, compared to smallest orifice cross section under same pressure. You can have one area cross section in the return side that's to small and your system is killed. I've used dead heads and return regs and they both work fine on carbed cars warmed fuel is better anyway it has to vaporizes, atomize for better combustion raw cold fuel is not all it's cracked up to be. It's just like many think highly polished intake runners is better after the carb is great for filling, but not for stirring fuel air mixture to get a great combustion flame front for power. I run super turbulent rough runners on mine to mix but flow increases with larger runners to get the best of both worlds. When you introduce fuel droplets because of fuel being cold it doesn't produce power with irratic combustion burn so you always have to watch control how far you take something. And complicated systems are always something you want to stay away from harder to troubleshoot, harder and more expensive to work on it can turn and bite you in the ass many times over. Don't know if you've ever heard the statement ( kiss ) keep it simple and stupid, and win.

So it’s better to place return style regulator AFTER carb?

Why don't you put the cooler on the line feeding the carb? Don't you want the coolest fuel at the carb.

on your 3 drawings "c"... why is your regulator after the carb on your return line? why even have a regulator on the back pressure line, shouldn't it be before the carb?

How long did it take you to chrome everything out she is beautiful

The return does 90% of its function when the car is at idle. Your fuel is flowing at its slowest at idle that would be the only time your fuel would have a chance to boil. If you put your regulator after it has already gone into the carburetor you aren't regulating anything. You are literally only regulating the flow going back to the tank

There called by pass regulater

Follow instructions.

holley reg is junk