Good Video, this is a very good trick you used to get your idle better in gear. Sometimes to explain electricity path is say its "lazy" it will go the path of least resistance.

Steve Brûlée I’ve watched him on Engine Masters he sounds like he really knows his stuff.

Love the series. Building a 250 2V myself with a sniper, in LA also and would love to connect and learn from you on the tune!

Cool! I literally thought about doing something like this with my 30003 (400hp TBI) FiTech once. Repurposing the AC input as a pseudo PRNDL switch. -On a FiTech you may not even need the relay.- I believe there is an option to select the signal type (12V vs GND) for the AC wire. Anyway, I had an issue with my 360 Dodge where when I put the transmission in gear the engine rpms dropped and causing a nasty stumble. I ended up greatly improving the issue by adjusting the relevant (2) fuel tables for both in AND out of gear to get the Learn trims closer to 0%. The problem is on the FiTech the “Idle Fuel Learn” has a lot ground to cover (too much for an auto IMO). It’s responsible for everything under 1200RPM regardless of MAP readings. When my engine was idling out of gear the Learn was around -14% but, when the idle stabilizes in gear the Learn was around 4%. The trim/learn was to slow to correct for this sudden change in load. I later found out this gap in fuel wasn’t as big if I selected CAM2 instead of CAM1 but, I learned an important lesson, the less trim has to work the better off you’ll be. And that goes for the IAC as well. Why make the IAC creep up to it’s target instead of just snapping to it? You know it’s going to increase with an automatic. With some addition software features I believe these aftermarket systems would greatly benefit from having a documented input wire for automatic transmission equipped applications. You could do a lot of cool stuff in software with that extra information. For example dedicated Idle Learn ( Both iac and fuel) and Idle AFR targets for in and out of gear. I recently emailed FiTech on this idea and more but, they never replied back so, I guess their not interested… all well I guess. Anyway, real cool solution, I like what you did with the relay. I’ll have to remember it.

The whole point of map vs rpm based speed density is load based, so if it's stalling when you put it in gear, get the idle timing and fuel right. You shouldn't have to do the iac kick.

So just wondering if you had the link available to the Holley forum you referred to in the end of the video?

So for wiring of the relay. You connected pins 86 (coil +) and 30 (switch common) to 12V keyed ignition. Pin 85 (coil -) is connected to the key side (cranking contacts) of the neutral safety switch. 87a (normally closed) to the ECU AC input. And 87 (normally open) is not used. When in Park or Neutral the NSS switch is closed which means pin 85 of the relay can get access to ground via the starter solenoid coil via its “S” terminal. This will cause the pins 30 and 87a to be in the OPEN state. (No IAC Kick demand) When put in gear the NSS switch will open which means pin 85 will lose access to the starter solenoid “S” terminal and therefore ground. This will cause the pins 30 and 87a to be in the closed state. (IAC Kick demand.) When the cranking circuit is closed, 12V will be present on Pins 86, 30 (via the key ignition contacts) and 85 (via the key cranking contacts) but, like you said, it doesn’t matter. The voltage potential will be the same on both sides and cancel each other out. The relay coil polarity (86 and 85) doesn’t matter unless there is a flyback diode connected in parallel with the coil. Is this sounding correct?

What cam did you decide on? Man, that sure turned out nice.

WOW! Nice upgrade. What did you do with the old motor? I’ll buy you old single barrel efi.?Maybe you’d be interested in doing an efi upgrade on my 1954 Chevy 235?🤣