Find episode 2 here testing myths, used head bolts, and $$$ ARP 625 studs: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ZshidZlyuuC9pKs.html

RIP to all the indicators. Your service has not gone unnoticed.

This channel is quickly becoming the hardware test variant of Project Farm in the amount dedication and attention to detail, I love it. On behalf of all the subscribers, please Keep it up, and thank you. 👍 👍

I'm definitely curious about thread inserts (time-sert specifically considering they're advertised for engine repair).

Really cool test with off the shelf test equipment! At work (for a large diesel manufacturer), we've put in a lot of research to bolted joints and have some info that may be helpful here. The dial indicator was solid, in industry we grind the tops and bottoms of each bolt, and measure the stretch with an ultrasonic gauge (MC900), and correlate that to a tensile test to get actual preload. Bolt preload with a torque only torque procedure is typically accurate to +/- 30% using the same fastener design with the same threads and same coating... different coatings can influence the friction factor of the threads by typically 30-50% as well, which further compounds the error from a straight torque. different tensile diameters (like parts that have a waisted or turned down shank) will also vary the preload for the same thread size. In a straight torque joint, preload is directly proportional to the total friction coefficient times the torque applied, with the grip length (distance from the underhead surface of the bolt to the first engaged thread) being independent with no contribution. +/-30% is pretty excessive, so on more clamp load sensitive joints, we implement a torque+angle, non torque to yield (TTY). In these joints, about 1/3rd of the preload comes from the straight torque, with the resultant preload coming from the fixed displacement of the threads. This means that bolt friction only contributes to that 30% error to the first 1/3rd of preload. The difficult part of this though is that because it's a fixed displacement, the distance that displacement occurs over (the grip length) does matter. For the same angle of displacement, the shorter the grip length, the higher the preload in the bolt. This means that in this test, variation in the ram height, and moving from the thick block of aluminum to the thin block all affected the amount of stretch in the bolts when you used the torque+angle torque procedures called out by the manufacturers. If you need to control preload distribution tighter, that's where torque to yield (TTY) comes in. We can typically get to a +/-5% range with these fasteners, especially with yield sensing torque spindles. Again these torque+angle procedures are still sensitive to grip length, but because you're working in a different area of the stress/strain (or torque/angle) curve, they're a little less sensitive. Great work, and feel free to reach out with any bolt questions, especially as far as materials, coatings etc. go, and their effects on fastener absolute strength or fatigue strength... you've officially just scratched the surface!

I can't believe the amount of work that goes into this channel. Such a great service to us gear heads and tool fanatics!

Would love to see helicoil inserts tested! Use them all the time at work to fix stripped out threads in 6061-T6 aluminum in automation equipment and always wondered if they're equal, worse or better than the original threads. Great work as always!

I had a head gasket blow on an 1.6L ecotec and I was in a pinch so I went down to my local nut and bolt supply and bought 17 12.9 grade bolts and two nuts. Used the two nuts and the 17th bolt in a vice to "measure" how much torque it took to snap the bolt. I believe it was like 370 ft lb. Set the torque wrench to 300 and one by one removed the old bolts from the head and reinstalled the 12.9's at 300 ftlb. I don't care what anyone says. It worked, I went from being 120 PSI down in two of four of the cylinders to being 185 on all cylinders. The car hasn't seen a lot of miles since because catalytic converter stolen but suffice it to say hardware store can save your ass sometimes.

These "For Science" videos are fantastic

Rivet nuts in varying sizes and materials would be interesting to see as well! As often as I use them to replace bolt and nut mounted equipment on bucket trucks, I have to say, they seem to hold up better when confronted by repeated operator errors 😂

To save the dial-indicator you could rotate it 180c, and measure how much it's moving upwards. And ofc something which sticks out on the "cylinder head" to measure against. Then upon breaking, it would hopefully jump upwards away from the dial-indicator.

Use a block that overhangs the hydraulic ram and set the indicator up on the underside of it. It will last much longer that way and still measure the bolt stretch.

This video was right up my alley. I used to have all this in a class at school years ago, some mechanics also were explaining this to me, bo now seeing this video all became crystal clear. Next video I will watch is yours about bolt grades.

Factory head bolts get reused on a lot of budget builds. Would love to see the same test on a used OEM bolt.

Your channel is pure gold! This was the most fascinating one yet. Nice to see where my money went when I used ARP on my last engine build. I'm super impressed!

I worked at a construction company and they changed the nut and bolt supplier. I was using 1/4 -20 bolts and I snapped 3 out of 12 off, and I was just snugging them up. They held the cutting wheel on a asphalt cutting that would be mounted on the front backhoe bucket. I said something to the other mechanics and they hadn't had any issues yet. I drilled out the brokens and the boss went to replace them. He thought I was over tightening them. Well he snapped 2 of them off and only had one hand on the ratchet and was just over what we considered snug. They were marked grade 8 however they were not even close to the older bolts that we found in the back of the bin. All in all it was good that it was cought before they started being used to bolt on fifth wheels on the trucks or for suspension work. Someone got to go through all of the NC and NF stuff and pick out all the new style nuts and bolts. I'm not sure how things ended up after they confronted the place about it.

It's wild that this video pops up in my feed this morning, as I just received a set of head studs for my engine build and was doing lots of research into ARP2000, L19, and aged 625

I design and test head bolts like this for all of the major OEs. Uniformity of clamp load is by far the most important factor when attempting to seal a head gasket surface like this. Max clamp load sound sexy but that's not what generates long term reliable performance. TTY is your friend.

The ARP2000 bolts were suprizing. I've used them before being cheaper but not thought about using them on a really high powered job. Impressive

Really enjoy this. Something new, educational, and putting brands to their claims. 👍👍

i am glad i brought ARP head stud kit for my turbo subaru !

Thanks for making a video I suggested! I appreciate all your hard work!

Very good and educational video all the tests that I try to measure in my head now tested with accuracy. Appreciate your work and I’m very grateful for it.

Very informative!!! Great test!! That answers alot of questions for us car guys/engine abusers who wonder if saving a couple bucks at build time is really worth it in the long run!! Keep the content coming! GREAT JOB!!!!

Thanks for the video! I know you put a lot of effort into it. I have used all types of cylinder head bolts from ARP to knock off brands. I always wondered about the strength difference you guys helped answer that question. One note to others, it's very important on how you prepare your bolt. When adding lube, or Teflon sealer it can really change the pressure when torquing the bolt making it stretch beyond the desired limit. So, be sure to install your bolts as dry as possible and with clean threads. If you have to use Teflon sealer use it sparingly. Also ARP lube is the most consistent over regular oil, or other forms of grease. Thanks again!

Really fantastic tests guys. Loved this. Yes please on thread inserts.

Great idea for a video!! You guys deserve WAYYYYY more subs than you have currently!! Thanks for all the info you've given us

It looks like all the dial indicators were harmed in the making of this video. Thanks again for tickling the nerd bone

Best video I've ever seen on cyl. head hardware. Bravo, full marks!

This is the answers to the questions I never had but should of asked, thank you sir for this awesome video

You guys are just crushing it with the great content, never stop.

You should 3D print ( or soft aluminium) a small flat bracket for the indicators, with a break away notch. You can use a screw in the rod with a 4-48 screw, and offset the indicator out of the "kill zone"

That was amazing, thank you!! And I'll just add the anecdotal information that I have the Cina grade Gen4 studs in a couple of my LSes and they're working great. Torqued with exact ARP instructions, making sure to have the bottom side of the washer and adjacent head surface very clean.

As a racing engine builder, the decision you talked about in the beginning of the video is a daily thing for me. I appreciate the work yall put into your videos!

Why this channel doesn't have more member is way beyond me. Always good, scientifically accurate content. I'd take Torque Test Channel's opinion on a tool WAY before any review. Thank you for taking your time and money to answer questions a lot of us always wondered!

Good video, thanks for doing it. You really helped me out about me selecting the bolts I'm going to use.

Dang TTC! Just when I think this channel is running out of material you guys hit a home run! I'm really into it. I'm definitely with the above comments about time-sert, I'd like to see how those perform. Great job as always and I'd like to see some more merch come out for your channel. The t-shirts are awesome ;) (hat's wound be awesome!)

Love it that you are car people. We are a special kind of breed.

Can you do a test where you torque the bolts to spec and then wait 24 hours and torque again to see if they move further (like they relaxed and loosened)? I saw a video one time where a guy would consistently get ~1/8th turn next day.

Xotics are being used now in some LB7 Duramax racing applications, but many are still unsure about them. I would love to see them go head to head....pun intended

Absolutely great information. The methodology of your testing seems to be a very real analog for real-world use

You could do an extractor episode with all those broken bolts ya have now also.

I think that this is a great advertisement for the $60 Chinesium PQY Racing Studs, especially targeted at those guys that attempt to re-use their OEM Head Bolts. Obviously not a replacement or even competitor for anything ARP, but priced and strength proven to be better than OEM. Great Info.

Brilliant, absolutely superb! This is such an important issue especially when assembling critical components, engine parts, or essential support fasteners. Thank you for this excellent presentation, on behalf of most apprentice and professional engineers, Ciao, L

You did a great job with this. You may want to consider torquing to a given bolt stretch. Coatings, lubricants and variations in manufacture can have a significant effect on preload vs applied torque. Joint failure actually occurs once preload is exceeded at that point you basically have zero preload on the gasket. Normally these fasteners in this application would be fatigue tested with cyclic load applied to a preloaded Joint. Basically your higher strength bolts are installed at a higher preload to prevent Joint separation. Again good job it gets people thinking about what they are paying for.

You missed the most important bolt... The 'sloppy mechanics' special. A stock head bolt that has been heat cycled and forged for 300k miles.

Some starving child in africa could have eaten that dial indicator!!!11!!!!!!1!!!!

very cool thanks ttc and yes thread inserts would be wicked cool

this was pretty awesome and honestly I use ARP bolts when building either stock or mild engines when I built my 12.5:1 compression Honda g23 I used arp studs and they were expensive and that was 5 years ago I can't imagine what they cost now but my 350 horsepower Ford 302 has ARP bolts and I've re-torqued them three times, three different sets of heads no problems whatsoever

Always informative AND entertaining!

I love these kinds of scientific testing of products!

What's most impressive to me is the fact that the cheapo amazon ones are actually pretty competent for someone going for ultra low budget upgrades. The only unknown would be the consistency of manufacturing.

Have to admit, didn't expect quite such results, well done and those dials may be at peace with their mission well done!

We had a customer use generic aftermarket studs in a mustang 5.0 coyote. We had it on the engine stand and literally shot a stud past my head 30 minutes after it was torqued down. It went up to the second level and through the back of a cabinet. We found it in the cabinet. Scary as hell. I can see easily when you calculate the estimated 100mph or faster flying passed your head.

Never seen thread-lock on a head bolt. Great video thanks.

I've not read 'all' the comments, so forgive me if it's a repeated suggestion, but you may be able to save a few pennies on indicators if you invert the indicator and indicate off of a tab that's affixed to the head of the fastener. Then when it lets go, it just takes off and the proboscis of the indicator just extends to its functional limit unharmed. How you affix the tab to the head of the screw is TBD . . . Quick epoxy, super glue, hot glue? I know to test oem button caps and dials we often "glue" tabs or shafts to them to get linear displacement numbers. Love the channel.

Excellent video! Thanks! Also, would love to see you test thread inserts.

Glad to see always useful content here.👍

Would love to see this retested with bolts heated to simulate operating temperature of engine

Informative as always 👍👍 Hell yeah I'd be interested in seeing the Thread Inserts on a up coming video!

To save yourself on dial indicators, make a simple little one-to-one ratio pivot with a light spring pulling down on one side, put the sprung end on the top of the cylinder head, and then put the tip of the dial indicator on the other end so that the dial indicator is always reading down and then when there is failure the dial indicator will not receive an impact. And since the pivot is one to one it will still give you an accurate reading.

Thread inserts, also knackered stud removal tools!

Omfg thank you I searched for a video like this a few months back and got mad no one had made a video yet but there’s been 100,000+ engines built with upgraded bolts and studs.

+1 for the thread inserts

I have arp2000 on mine, it's a 14 mil 12-point socket. I have 24 of them holding my head on and my turbos produce around 100 PSI at the manifold with wide open throttle

At first i was bored by the end i learnt a lot :) , awesome work and effort

I've done bolt tensile/stretch failure studies utilizing a jig and an instrumented press, the sound from even the small ones would make everyone in the area jump, wish I could have watched you guys running this in person

Thread inserts would be an interesting video. My dad would always use HeliCoils and I never thought they could hold up to a good tapped thread, but in a pinch they always seemed to work, after that I was wondering about the theoretical max load of rivnuts.

Love it! Pleasure as always !

Very impressive testing

Very awesome 👌🏻.. Thank you for your knowledge 💪🏽

Here's a good test for you, the LS crank bolt is debated as to whether it needs to be replaced after being used once, the manual shows it's a tty bolt but many people reuse it, would be really cool if you tested the stretch the stock bolt makes after being installed at the manuals torque specs 👍 great video

Yes on the thread insert video, and interesting to see the differences in some of these looks like the Amazon ones need to change their ratings a bit.

dude this video is amazingly produced props to you

New those l19 studs were a good suggestion

Yes, thread inserts please! And also do them in aluminum heads. And also compare them to welding the hole closed in an aluminum head and re tapping

A thread insert test would definitely be appreciated!

Oh that intro... thank you. I was expecting something along the lines of "the following is exceptionally dangerous, do not attempt".

Another note worthy plus of studs over bolts is they put the tension on the nut instead of the threads in the block. Which in an aluminum block, the steel nut will handle much more than cast aluminum threads

For all but the most extreme Applications the Felpro seems like a very good bet as had lowest extension just prior to yield, the OEM bolt had nearly double the exentsion at the same tensile load, but would need to see at least a full set of each tested to see if there really is a consistent difference.

This is no doubt one of the best and most useful videos I’ve ever seen regarding hardware. Great job fellas

Would love to see the same test with bolts that are 300°F

Man love this channel this is great.

Very informative video. Would like to see how the thread inserts hold up. Thanks for the videos.

Have always had great luck with ARP L19 studs. The set i run in my 4g63 held down 47psi from a 67mm turbo before stretching.

Dude !!! so helpful . thank you for an awesome test !!!

i like what you'all do. thanks!

Thanks for recommending this channel, YT. Subscribed

Yes to the heli-coil and thread insert test

I think a similar test of connecting rod bolts would be interesting. There are lots of opinions out there about what are the best. My theory is the difference is not necessarily material, it is that some bolt manufacturers use alternate thread profiles, e.g. UNJ instead of UNF. Would be cool to see real data. It was interesting to see all failures occurred within the treads, just where they should!

great test

Nice testing !

Very good video. I bought the Fel Pro set before watching this. I'd probably had bought the PQY if I'd had saw this before. If Chevy had just used an off the shelf thread and pitch we could just use socket head cap screws and they are typically 170 kpsi.

Watched the vid, Liked and Subscribed. Good stuff. I always used ARP studs in my rebuilds. For me its about fully threading the stud and then applying the clamping force on the nut. Especially on Aluminum blocks.

Bad ass !!! Super informative video and yes we want to see this thread insert video !!

Yes, I would definitely be interested in seeing the thread inserts tested, as well as some other studs such as the Jeg's studs that are made in the USA. Another interesting test might be with vs without thread locker holding the insert into the block.

would LOVE to see various TTY headbolts Nissan Juke, Volvo, Audi/Volkwagon, and others. Or even TTY bolts in general. Many are used in european car suspension

Very interesting watch

Awesome video mate

Thread inserts for sure!