Thanks! Usually try for Brix 22 for reds, Brix 20 for whites. Approximate alcohol if we reach those levels is 12%, 11%

It's a Grifo (Italian.) don't know volume of hopper. Manual drive, on matching stand. You can see more of it here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ea-jY86e39mlqZc.html

You're welcome! Thanks for the support.

1. a few seeds slip through, but these are dropped, along with yeast cells and pulp, during fermentation 2. Juice would be a little cloudy - can put into frig a while to allow it to settle..

Thank you so much! we could just filter the juice later to remove any leftover seeds then

If the wine is clear, you could. But for me, I need more time to allow clearing. My usual - Whites, 5-6 months (racking a few times in between) then bottle if clear, Reds, as much as 20 months (again racking every three months or so) to allow adjustment and aging. There are fining agents available which can speed up the clearing process. amzn.to/2Xxs1Xa

the fermentation ends in less than a week with natural yeast from skins. If you use clearing agents along with sorbate and sulfide you can bottle well under 30 days. I currently have wine finished to peek dryness after only 6 days. Clearing snd degassing 5 days.

Thanks!

Vinmetrica

Have never done additions to improve color, but since people make wine with beet root juice, I assume it would be all right as long as the drinkers have no health issues with beets. Not sure if it would affect taste. There are other ways to get good color extraction next time you make wine.

@@SHredWorld sir, please make a video on how to extract good, dark color in red wine...

That's a great suggestion, but it would have to wait until this fall.

I'll try soon. Complicated subject that I haven't yet found a way to present simply and clearly.

@@SHredWorld please do it . It will help me and a lot of people. Very confusing to many.

I use God's recipe and it works every time.

I think it is. It's from Italy, label says Stampi Stampaggio soffaggio materie plastiche

Realistically you dont need to use food grade plastic its fine nothing is going to get into your wine, I am a professional winemaker. What I can say is that you dont want to use any plastic thats scratched up as bacteria will hide in the scratches and can ruin your wine.

for me, this site (and others) are better than books: www.winepress.us Forums have plenty of current useful advice.

@@SHredWorld many thanks

@@kiennguyentrung8396 you're welcome!

depends on what type of wine. Dry wine (no sugar) around 0.990 Sweet wine, higher than 1.005

Good Question! The lower temperature slower fermentation of whites (to preserve flavor) makes them more susceptible to contamination. The air lock keeps contaminants out, but lets CO2 escape. Higher temperature faster fermentation of reds converts sugars to alcohol more quickly.

@@SHredWorld when you say contamination do you just mean like bugs and such? Or is the white so slow that you actually risk it going to vinegar? If you were to just cover the white with a cloth or something would that suffice? Or is the airlock a must have?

Yes, I mean contamination by air-borne bacteria that spoil unprotected juice. A cloth covering works fine as long as fermentation is occurring. Probably get a more rapid and vigorous ferment that way. I use airlock for whites because I prefer a long, slow ferment. Many different ways to make wine!

@@SHredWorld thanks! I'm just starting out so I'm sorry if those seem like silly questions

No such thing as silly question. Wine making is at same time simple AND complex. Here is a good resource for beginners and experienced winemakers: www.winepress.us

Of course! whatever you prefer. But if you intend to bottle.....kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fsxpdJmrrZ6ud30.html

@@SHredWorld sir my ph leavel is 2.5 how to increase the value

@@SHredWorld sir,plz tell primary Fedamentation,and secondary room temperature

@@SHredWorld my room temperature 83.8°F this is k

We do. We press before we start fermentation.

@@SHredWorld thanks for the reply, do the skins and seeds from whites give off flavors, or is it traditionally done this way?

Tradition is press first, just ferment the juice. Have never heard of anyone fermenting whites on the skins, but who knows? maybe someone is trying that; would be interested in hearing about it if someone is doing this.

Not sure if I have ever had nat ferm wine. I'm afraid to try it on my own grapes.

@@SHredWorld its easy to set a batch aside with natural yeast from the skins alone. It starts a strong ferment right away and finishes within days/weeks. I only add potsulfite at end of ferment.

100% correct!! I been making wine from natural yeast and never had a problem

You need to crush your grapes and see how much volume you have. Test that volume (must) to find out how much sugar it has (measure specific gravity or Brix). Then calculate what specific gravity or Brix you would like, and either add sugar or dilute to reach desired SG. As a guide, a 5 gram packet of yeast will ferment about 18 L of must.

@@SHredWorld thank u so much sir

@@SHredWorld sir when to use bentonite powder, after 30days or?

Like most fining agents, add when fermentation is complete. If you can wait, why not try racking periodically instead? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ip1gf9io3L-blps.html

@@SHredWorld 🙄 sir first primary Fedamentation 7 days ,then secondary Fedamentation 23 days ,so 30 days completed then add the bentonite powder correct sir..

Sorry, thought I had already answered this. Depending on where you live, try online, local wine/vineyard supply, or market place trade sites.

I've seen similar methods for making wine but have never tried them. Sounds perfect for making small batches. Would love to hear how the wine turns out from those who make wine this way.

@@SHredWorld ~ If you visit some of the winemaker's forums and look around you'll find that most of the seasoned winemakers agree that the bigger the batch the better the wine turns out. Most of them won't bother making a batch smaller than three gallons, and most of the say that making a one gallon batch is a complete waste of time and effort. Personally, I try to always make sure I have enough fruit saved up in my freezer to make a five gallon batch of wine, no matter what the fruit is. I start it off in a six and a half gallon brew bucket stirring it every other day, then after six or seven days (depending on how the airlock is bubbling) I strain out the pulp with a five gallon paint straining bag (into another empty six and a half gallon brew bucket), then using a 12" winemaker's funnel I pour the wine into a five gallon carboy and fit it with a rubber winemaker's sleeve and an airlock. Then after sixty days I rack it into another empty five gallon carboy. Then after ninety more days I rack it again. Then after ninety more days I rack it again. That time if it's clear I let it sit ten days and rack it again and then I bottle it. I use Lalvin EC 1118 winemaker's yeast. I make a yeast starter (you can find the recipe online). I buy most of my winemaking supplies from Label Peelers.

Uh, no! Don't do this! Blending the berries chops up the seeds and releases unfavorable tannins and oils. Pressing is best. This way the seeds to leak into the juice.

@@ratlivesmatter125 this actually is a very good point also @Jim Yost your recipe sounds too complicated for me, imho.

@@jimyost2585 your method of winemaking is a waste of time

Have never actually diluted must myself. I understand that adding water probably reduces flavor, but I don't know any other way to lower sugar levels. Your thoughts?

@@SHredWorld Maybe earlier harvest?

@@danielnerad6671 Good Point. Grower should monitor sugar and acids and harvest when optimal.

@@SHredWorld could you use finished wine in place of water?

Have never used water, though some people do it. I prefer wine from same batch, or if not available, finished wine of same type.

Hear ya. Tell me more.

@@SHredWorld The grapes have their own dedicated yeast on their skins. We call wild ferment or natural ferment. You don't really need artificial yeasts if your grapes are healthy unless you want to alter artificially some poor grapes. These wines on the skin or called 'skin contact' were at the origin of the creation of wine, whether red or whites.

For fully fermented wine, density about 0.99g/mL