The CBF1000 MK2 (from 2010 onward) Honda changed the design but simply making the unit very robust, twice as thick coatings and other improvement's, Honda did listen when they designed the CBF1000 MK2, Alloy frame, one end can, better fuel consumption, I sort of like the MK1 though as it had 2 cans and not the one as on the MK2, The Honda CBF1000 MK2 is in the top 8 bikes in the world for reliability, cheap parts, easy servicing, and we all don't mind numb bums knowing we will get to where we are going as a self maintained machine is more reliable than one being serviced by Bubba Bob at the franchise dealers.

Cheers for the vid! 👍🏼

I would change the reg/rec as the voltage was still fluctuating a lot more than I would expect and at times dropping below 13v when revved. It looks a lot like the reg/rec is not doing it's job

Your fluctuation in voltage could be due to the meter probes not being properly connected to the battery terminals. If they are only poked in, they could be bouncing and breaking contact momentarily with the vibration as the revs go up. Ideally they should be connected with crocodile clips. If you want to check for voltage drop between the connector and the battery the easiest way is to connect one probe to the +ve pin at the connector (regulator side), with it plugged in, and the other to the battery +ve terminal, then run engine with loads turned on (ie, lights if they are switchable). Voltage measured should be virtually nil. You can then repeat with negative terminals to check earth side. The other point is, you can only get accurate results from charging tests if the battery is healthy and fully charged.

As others have said good connections, crocodile clips to battery, are essential to correctly test voltages. Also you have virtually nothing to gain here by hot wiring the RR direct to the battery, you previously tested the wiring loom with battery voltage at the RR and less than a 0.2v drop between RR and battery positive and negative cables which proves the wiring loom is good.

All very sensible precautions, but for my money i'm pretty sure it will be fine now.

I think you were maybe trying to remember Electrosport, but yeah, being of a certain age, my brain always goes to Electrolux first, if it wasnt Electrosport it may be Electrexworld who are a few miles away from me.As for that mystery cable, maybe the remains of what was a permanent aftermarket cable for plugging into a battery tender/charger, as the positioning and the in line fuse, gives that impression.It did seem to be jumping around a lot voltage wise when being revved.Try running it for a few mins just on idle, to see a steady/increasing voltage and then rev it to 4k-5k to see if it smoothes out the jumping around, or, give it a full charge from a tender/charger and then try it

Should be ok Nat good idea to take a spare battery though👍

Fully charge your bike battery. Put fresh batteries in your tester as old ones can give poor results. Test the AC output of the new stator. Go down the Winchester, have a beer and wait for all of this to blow over.

🏍👍👍

Is it necessary to drain the oil out of the bike before you remove the stator cover? How much if any oil drains out when you remove the cover? I haven't been able to find a single video that shows or explains that.

Did you have to drain the oil to remove the stator

so what code did this throw up, i have code 34 wich could relate to voltage drop.

First!

once you topbox you cant go back