They're an absolute blast to drive with double the factory horsepower or more!

They're a ton of fun for pretty cheap. Just one of those things where you have to have realistic expectations before you start.

Thank you!

The honda tech forums have ton of useful info! But they are a bit dated. Still a great source for info but not always the most up to date.

Clutch wise initially I had a cheaper XTD "stage 2" that I didn't break in properly and slipped the first time driving it, which still did well enough to put down a 13.8 1/4 at the drag strip. After I built the motor, I did a synchrotech rebuild kit with carbon synchros, an Mfactory LSD, insane shafts axles and a comp stage 4 clutch. As long as you preload the axles when you launch it there's no reason a set of factory axles and some good transmission fluid wouldn't hold up with a good name brand clutch. If you're shooting for a super high hp build, there are adapter plates out there to adapt the D series to a B series transmission which are more commonly built, but unless you're putting down somewhere over 450hp I dont think its necessary.

You can do a D to B trans. Enemy creation. In Kissimmee Florida has all your d16 go fast parts

VSR has been good to me, I run their 7875 on my LS car, that thing should light off quick! You can get oil pressure from the sensor area on the back of the block using a T, but the threads are BSPT. Alot of guys end up forcing an NPT fitting in there not knowing any better and having leaking issues either immediately or down the road.

Thank you!

@@acceleratekendel you're welcome brother, that's why we're here to support you

Those are certainly an option! I've heard good things about them but never ran them personally so didn't have any input on them. I had some off brand 1000cc injectors at one point and they were super difficult to daily drive on.

Huntertunned flow tests them and when you order them he gives alot of info about your specific injectors, he runs a yt channel btw.

it’s v

Thankyou!

I just looked into them and they're out here breaking records for sure! While they are fast, I think most budget build people are looking for a car that's more of a summer cruiser / daily instead of a track toy, which is understandable. This video was geared a bit more twords the weekend warrior guys.

Sorry! I made this vid in my brothers apartment with his fancy microphone as opposed to just yelling into my phone mic lol. My newer videos I've gotten the audio much more dialed in!

The sandwich plate is used for the oil feed, it goes between the block and oil filter and pushes oil into the turbo. You still would need to drill a hole in the oil pan for the oil return from the turbo. My local fab guy charges $20 to drill a hole in the pan and weld in your bung so long as you bring it to him cleaned out and not full of oil residue.

I wouldn't worry about spending the extra for that low of horsepower. With E85 and a good tune it'll have no problem making that power on the stock rods and pistons.

@@acceleratekendel i might get new pistons and rods anyways because my d16z6 has 230k on it. dont want them snapping from being so old

​@soren_prod doesn't matter how old they are, they'll be just a strong metal has a weird stress threshold. If you get new pistons you ofc need a rebore tho !

​@@dietznutz1 If I change the rods only how much do the pistons hold reliably

@@errajiadnane6553 I have no idea

I ran stock head bolts at that time with no issues whatsoever. As long as the tune is good it shouldn't be a problem. I was on E85 the entire time tho which does make the tuning window and margin for error a bit larger.

@@acceleratekendel Awesome.. Thanks for the response

@@markf378 Anytime! thanks for watching!

As far as I know, D16 rods are 3mm wider overall than D17 rods. So these rods and pistons wouldn't work in a D17 without some modifications.

They're the same price just the summit BOV is like a dollar more

@@gaelmartinez897 The summit BOV and the VS BOV look to be pretty close to the same. I've personally only used the VS and as long as you take it apart and make sure the diaphragm is in correctly it should be perfectly fine.

Depending on power level, you probably will need a clutch. It's not so much about horsepower as it is torque when it comes to a clutch. I had a cheap ebay clutch when I was still stock internals making 220hp and didn't have an issue

@@acceleratekendelwhat clutch was it send the link part

I did the 75.5. alot of people do run the 75s but you will get some piston slap, and the only reason to go 76 is if your block is already bored to 75.5 and needs to be cleaned up / has grooves that catch a finger nail.

My initial build with stock block and purchase of the car was around $3500. Building the 2nd motor, transmission and suspension included I think total in the car was right around $6500

They do the job, but they don't do it well. I ran some off brand 1000cc during my initial build and while they worked good wide open, driveability on the street and cold starts were less than ideal. I know how hard it is to shell out the money on a budget build, but if it's something you plan to build / keep long term, I think it's more of a buy once / cry once situation.

Are you in the US? Facebook marketplace is where I get stuff like this,, just gotta wait for the right deal. I got the one I built for $50 with bad rings but that was pre covid. Post covid tho I did score a 4.8 for $200. The deals are out there you just gotta wait for them to come up.

@@acceleratekendel Yep, U.S. west coast here. I need to start my daily routine with marketplace.

I get them for 200 all day and thats Y8 and Z6s

Marketplace, just got a d16y7 in a 97 ek/ej hatch for 800$, just have to really look for the deals

Junkyard