Happy to have helped.

Thank you so much for commenting. I really appreciate your comment.

Thank you for taking the time to say that. Your welcome!

Your welcome. I am so glad that the video helped you. Thank you for taking the time to say so.

Thank you for taking the time to say this helped. I really appreciate that.

Excellent. Thank you for taking the time to leave a nice comment.

Thank you for your nice comment.

Just wanted to say thanks to you too for people posting all the stuff that we need to know about the Honda Accord and we do really appreciate it...

Your welcome. Thank you for taking the time to leave a good comment.

Thank you for taking the time to make that comment.

Thank you very much for taking the time to leave such a nice comment. I am so glad this helped you.

All I can say is follow the video. Check fuses and connections first. The replace the part. You can also pay someone to diagnose the problem and fix the problem yourself.

Well ... that is too difficult to diagnose from afar. Could be something major like a head gasket leak to something minor like a radiator or heater core leak. Of course that could be a bunch of work to repair but minor none the less. Could also be a hose or any number of things. A professional diagnosis could cost anything from zero, to 1/2 hour, to an hour of shop time. Good luck and have it looked at if you are concerned about it.

The resistor is the easy fix and I have rarely found motors to be bad in modern cars. Bad motors were more typical in 70's and 80's american cars.

Thanks for the reply. I'm gonna test it 1st. One time I had an 02 Mountaineer in which I had to replace the blower motor.

Sorry I don't know what is going on. Could be the relay or the control connection in the dash.

@@A_Renaissance_Man Thanks for reply back.

Make sure the control settings are set to blow the air through the vents you are checking for flow. I actually had the settings wrong in one of the scenes in the video.

Could be your Dash control, it's like all these Resistors in the back, this is expensive. Better off going to a junk yard.

Any update on what the problem was? I’m having the exact same issue

@@skinzsoccer2 I just fixed my heat. 1- Resistor in dash above passengers side feet. 2- Blower motor. 3- The control panel on the dash that controls all your settings. I would just test all 3 and you'll see which one it is. The Blower motor if you tap on it and it comes on them it's the Blower motor for sure!

Janet Smith Thank you for your comments. Stop the video at 0:35 and you will see the arrow pointing at the feet of the person. At the end of the video, the flow direction is correct. The arrow needs to be pointing at the person's head. Check to make sure the flow direction is set properly.

Yes, thanks. That is the first thing I tried.

Not that I know of. Thank you for trusting my response.

Sometimes broken fuses work when they are hot and they do not work at other times. I do not know how the motor is but I have not found them to go bad, but the bearing can wear out but that is more noise than function. So fuses or resistor could be the problem. You could have someone check it out them fix it yourself. Some places charge and some do not charge for diagnostics.

@@A_Renaissance_Man i have changed the fan and all is working fine thanks ,what a pig of a job on right hand drive cars thanks alot honda lol they qouted £460 .cost me £40 for the part from salvage yard .

After two weeks same problem ,now ive changed resister and seems to be ok .

For a continuity check you can just set the dial to sound, if you hear the tone the fuse is good. If you leave the fuse in the holder you can set the dial to Volts DC and look for 12 or more volts.

Both. The problem originates from bad blower motor. When it aged, it can no longer spin freely and needs higher current to push it to spin. Eventually the resistor will melt the contact inside it. Then the resistor will become in "bypass mode". Only level 4 setting works, not level 1-3. Switch between open and close air flow may trigger fan to spin because of the outside air comes in and give the motor a lift. So basically people with this problem have both defected resistor and blower motor (but not totally broken and both are repairable). I replaced both when the motor did not spin on some days and worked only on level 4 on the others. The resistor is $8 on EBay and the blower motor is $37. The tools needed are slot screwdriver(need one really long and one really short) for resistor and T25 Torx screwdriver (need both regular one and short one, better use Torx L-handle) for blower motor. The resistor is not really gone bad. I opened both new and old resistors up. I saw the difference. The contact got detached after the temperature was too high and melted. It can easily be soldered back. After I soldered it, the old resistor works again 100% with new motor and partially works with old motor if I switch between close and open air flow to give the old motor a lift. There are also KZfaq video showing how to wash the old blower motor with WD40 so it can spin more freely. But I choose to buy a new one since it is quite cheap on EBay and disassembly the motor into two parts needs a lot of work. The old motor had some noise since 18 months ago anyway. Time to replace it in my case.

​@@artfquinnYup mine is completely crapped out now. Thanks so much!:]

This repair only fixes the fan's blower speed. If your car is stuck in AC then the door that seperates them may be stuck or the actuator that switches between the two may be inoperative. GL. I hope you get it fixed.

Thank

Thank you for taking the time to comment. I really do appreciate the fact that this video helped you.

Off and On could be several different things. I do not want to tell you to throw parts at it. Guessing would be your choice.

@@A_Renaissance_Man hey I hit under the glovebox and boom I was freezing lol..... thanks

@@A_Renaissance_Man I had to replace the part smh but it was done in 5 mins under the glove box

Should be the same as a Honda Civic. Remove the passenger side foot well cover and look for an electrical connection like the one shown in the video.

@@A_Renaissance_Man thanks will check

I understand. Under the dash work is both mentally and physically painful. I wish I could help you with words, but the work is a matter of figuring out what and how to do it with tools at hand.

Sounds like the flap that separates the heater core from the evaporator is stuck. The controlling actuator for the flap or the flap itself could be the problem.

@@A_Renaissance_Man thanks do you know about brakes?

I think it was a Honda CR-V. I don't remember the model year.

I know this is a little late, but it says it's for a 2012 Honda CrossTour Fan Motor in the video description.

Chances are the blower just kicked the bucket. Anyways, still worth a watch

Did you even watch the video? He explained that, yes, he was throwing parts at it, but his parts-throwing was based on years of experience in which parts were most likely to fail. Upshot - he nailed it FIRST TIME. Either quit your whining or make your own video.

@@arguingwithstupidpeople2047 So what you're saying is he guessed and people who don't have years of experience wouldn't have guessed correctly

@@arguingwithstupidpeople2047 And not to mention when you guess and you decide that your direction should be a certain way you can still test things to show why your guess was correct

Yes. In the engine compartment. I think it is fuse #14 but you will have to confirm that.

The repair shown only fixes the fan speed. Sound like you problem is with the vent that opens and closes the heater core box. Could be a vacuum leak or the controller on the dash that switches from one to the other.