Apologies ahead of time to people who had to stare at my face and hear me talk for 26 minutes.

Good explanation of the fundamentals. One way to put the differences in perspective is that Hondata, Moates Demons (Neptune), and any other grassroots Tuning platform for Honda's was basically built to be daughter-board drop-in's to the factory ECU, their by allowing access to what was otherwise factory restricted closed-loop programming, their by providing you open-loop tuning for your power goals beyond stock, but the take away is that the base of the OEM programming is closed-loop for optimal "stock" performance where you work around these parameters with the grassroots hardware in open-loop which many are a custom to.... With stand-alone systems, they're built from the get-go with access in mind, therefore they've placed much R&D into providing not only a platform that is pretty well plug-and-play (with vehicle adapter harnesses, etc), but is also closed-loop predominantly in real-time operation, and you focus on dialing in the system based on manufacturer data per your engine parts, and mathematics that apply no matter your setup and limitations which is ideal for what a stand alone system covers these days.... Flexible closed-loop tuning with good processing power that can be had in small packaging.

Thank you so much for this video. This is the kind of thing I like : a good technical speech. 👌

I have zero clue on the info I just listened to, but I will learn it all

Kenny don't sell YOURSELF short you don't look homeless your good! They DEF picked the right guy for the videos your KNOWLEDGE is PRICELESS! 👍👍 Hell of a job dude I learned I have a mk5 GTI and b8 apr stage 2 Audi A4 and you guys got my thinking it might be time to jump off the VW and onto the HONDA bandwagon.. So much more info, parts half the price and then when I pull my car to the garage get a bill for a 1000 or 2 or get turned away... Shocked on how many garages I went to and then turned away due to having an Audi and how people are scared to work on them.. Ty guys REALLY

This is probably one of the most informative videos I've come across in awhile

Well explained, you make it clear that the hondata is good but only in a set window that it's tuned for. Haltech will be able to adjust on the fly for air and fuels + it's easy to modify your set up and the car can run once small changes are entered into the ecu.

I'm very impressed with the functionality of the haltech standalone.you explained alot of my questions I definitely feel like the 1500 will be in my future!!and the price is excellent!!

"Look homeless" Hahahaha, Humble Performance Rock!

Haha that intro "i look homeless" made me laugh! keep up the hard work guys...love the videos

Talk more about aem infinity. Also more comparison to what stand alone has that Hondata doesn’t. Such as cam trigger. And more options to data log more sensors and so on. Great job Kenny. Love your videos. Can’t wait to see some racing in 2020. #StayHumble

😂 im old school i started messing with Honda's back in the early 2000s. My best friend from highschool was seriously the first person in my area Orlando Florida to a k swap his civic before there where any swap harnesses or Internet support lol. Anyway i just recently was financially able to start my k swap project like 10 years after he completed his lol.and i was so behind on information that i went with the hondata kpro v4 honestly because of price and the fact i could use a good used or cheap aftermarket engine harness. Long story short i realized after never sending it to a tuner wanted to do everything my self including the fab work for the turbo setup i realized it is very slow compared to the newer stuff and you made alot of good points because my car is definitely not a daily just a weekend ripper no ac no radio lol. Im 40 years old born 84 so the wraith movie and Johnny 5 is what got me into cars at a young age and my uncle dad where v8 Chevy guys back in the 90s 😂😂 who would of thought i would fall in love with import 4 cylinders they would always pick on me back then saying no replacement for displacement 😂 now i can say i have a v8 4-cylinder 😂 2.4l k24 torque reminds me of torque that Hondas didn't have back in the 90s

With a wideband, tuning air/fuel became easy. My main concern is to fine tune ignition timing advance to perfection, since its the only way to increase power in n/a cars

Reason why im going aem v2 in my k series awd integra build. Better tuning, control on the race fuel I'll be running, better traction control, boost by gear for me, and crazy 2 steps lol. Kenny you always look homeless but I still love you mane haha 💜😎 .

You don't look homeless bro, looks like you are getting work done. Cudos! Keep up the good work!

I like it when you talk Nerdy!🍻🐈🔥

Great video.. the community needed this. Thanks again 👍👌🙏

Love my Ktuner for my 06 Rsx type-S. Upload basemaps, mess with 2 step and shoot flames. Got it tuned with it a month ago and made 215hp with bolt-ons. Now ready to install my turbo kit and make more power!

Thank you for making this video. Been looking at making the switch to an aem or haltech ecu. Thank you for explaining all this and showing their differences.

If you're really on a budget, but still want a lot of that fancy standalone ECU stuff, you can build a Megasquirt 3 for about $600, just have to be willing to solder and build a jumper harness and plan out your I/O setup. I've run my Hyundai Tiburon rallycross car on MS3 for two years and it's been great. Full VE tuning strategy, full sequential fuel and spark for up to 8 cylinders and a lot of the same trim tables and closed loop control options for half the cost.

Great tutorial! I would use hondata for time attack and everyday driving..If I were to travel would swap use halltech elite 1500. Because,as you mention different air pressures in different states High low terrain. DIFFERENT temps and such.

U guys have the best intro out of all the car guys!!! So well edited!

You really did a great job on the video...you explained that very well.. nice job my friend..........

So, on the K-Pro, we input a basemap and specify the target AFR, make a run, get the data log, and manually go into the fuel cells and adjust the columns. Whereas the Haltech, you put a AFR target and make a run and Haltech auto adjusts the the injector timings to satisfy your input/desired AFR target. A fast reacting/processing auto compensating ecu.

$900 for a K-pro, it's hard to argue against a standalone at that price point. Only thing I could see keeping me on K-pro would be OBD2/emissions tbh

I think because I drive from low elevation to high elevation, even with my daily driver, I'm considering the Haltech, it'll be worth more than the car itself but it'll be a great investment to start with something that helps in those cases for roadtrips.

Can you guys do a video on suspension setups for street/strip/roll race setups? I currently have Koni yellow with GC and want to upgrade but there’s not much info out there. Thanks

Damn man I'm still on neptune

Sold on the Haltech. I need to get on the VE wagon. Thanks for the breakdown, your videos are always informative and helpful, thanks bro!

Great video Learned alot about the ecu im running in my car(elite 1500) in k swapped rx8 Really good explanation. The elite is perfect ecu for engine swapping a rx8 if anyone is wondering. Everything works no lights on dash

I went straight to Haltech due to quality and the fact its all new. I am building a turbo K24A2 swapped MR2 hoping to not go broke before its done lol

Lots of info! Thanks for the upload!

Does haltech have the Bluetooth option so i could get rid off my gauge and have the gauge display on my phone like a cobb commander

Whichever one you choose, if you are interested in learning how to tune it yourself, or would like to at least know your way around the software to make changes after having it tuned, I would highly recommend taking the courses at Evans Performance Academy. He has specific courses on Haltech, S300 and Kpro, among many other ECUs.

I turned my tuner like this I want to make the world's fastest dual cam zc with as much boost as possible until the sleeves and the rods blow out the block at the end of the track with the fastest time and the highest boost in the world I've already ran 30 lb on aftermarket rods and pistons with stock sleeves and it wasn't even tune all the way up to 30 lb and only a block guard and ARP head studs hold that baby together so if anything say I like this to him I'm ready to make history 😎😎😎😎😎💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪🤘🤘🤘🤘🤙

Always great to learn new things U give a great service into how tuning works Thanks love the information

Always love the intro

Thank for the insight bro. Definitely good to know info. I gotta Hondata but may cross over at one point.

Wow!! Great presentation done with average simple language ( no molecular structure of quantum parameters terminology)👍

This video was like drinking the greatest milkshake in the world but through my brain!

Mind blown love the information great learning

Stellar information. This will help a lot of people.

nice video!!

Free knowledge right here! Wow! Thanks for taking the to make this video!

How to wire up flex fuel sensor and EBC to the Haltech? I want to run the EBC in a push to close setup-not a bleed-off setup like a manual boost controller-so the solenoid runs to the top of the wastegate to keep the wastegate from cracking until desired boost is reached.

Boostedboiz are lucky to have Brent he a beast .

No apologies you know your stuff I learned a ton.

That's great info and tons of it 🤘🤘. Thank you 🙏

Thinking of switching over from hondata to haltech for cam trigger ignition

Great video, thank you for explaining fully.

Respectfully disagree about needing to have a table for altitude. A car running on a MAP sensor can handle changes in atmospheric pressure right there. Only time you need a table for changes in atmospheric pressure is if running throttle sensor instead of MAP.

Finally someone speak plain English about where the extra money is going.

I've not a fuggin 3.2a2 j series haltech is gonna be my way

So why is it a problem using the haltech for a street car, if i ever go to all the time and effort to build a car i want to know exactly what is happening all the time and be able to have a fuel sensor that changes maps based on which fuel im running, and i want something that can throttle performance if manifold air temps are too high or if im experiencing hot engine oil or any other problems

Wish Haltech had models for newer generation cars. I have a Accord 2019

The haltech is universal also. So if ever need to sell it other car enthusiast can use it. Vs if you sell a honda ecu I cant use it at all haha

Killer review kennyyy 💪

Best explanation ever!!!

Awesome break down, makes sense

You guys need to make more videos we need more videos...

Hard for me to subscribe on a channel but damn you guys are killing it.

THIS INTRO IS FU... SICK

Honestly listened to this like a mini podcast lol Loved the info, actually was easy to follow along and explains things pretty well. Just one quick question. So I live in the rockys and just me going from home to work (70 mile drive) is a 1000' change in elevation.. so if I wanted my car to go to and from work with ease, even tho it's a street car, I would be looking towards the haltech right? Or easier put, how much elevation change is too much for the hondata to handle?

great video, i learned a lot! thanks!

FuelTech vs Haltech?! I'm a FuelTech guy. But now that haltech has the new dash Imma probably swap over to the haltech plug and play with the new dash on my 04 SRT-4 drag car.

AEM Infinity is best bang for buck. Great ECU

If you add the cost of wideband controller, and the portability, haltech, aem etc wins

I like the haltech

my oem ecu stock ecu adjusts itself i could drive anywhere without any problems how about that lol

950 for a core ecu plus paying 4 k pro mite as well buy haltech 1500

Great job was explaining

Does the Kpro allow to be tuned by the owner or are the the tunes locked by the tuner. ? What ever I purchase I want to make sure I own it can make changes myself without having to pay to play.

Just spend the money and get the Haltech... I don’t give a shit if you have to save up for months six months whatever..it’s worth it.

Have you guys ever looked at fueltech? Those things look pretty bad ass on all the track cars and street cars I've seen.

As a Chevy guy, the K Pro is like the HP tuner? And the Haltech Holley Dominator?

Pretty damn good video! Thanks alot man 💯

Thanks for doing this video its the one area I have been unsure about for my H22 turbo build plans. So say Im wanting 500ish for a mainly street use car with the above setup would I be able to have boost by gear with Hondata S300?

I bought a 2006 Crv awd. I want to make a sleeper. They don't show a hondata for this model. I dropped it with coil overs.. What is my best option to start with if I want to build this to a beast. I may end up building a new engine, naturally aspirated, to take advantage of the AWD. To get the most hp without rebuying parts?

Great info great vid keep it up guys respect cheers more vid yo

Ngl it took me a second to remember pounds was a currency not just a weight measurement. 😂

Thanks Kenny!

Its funny we only live a few hours apart and I was just reading that same article on the k20.org page the other day.

hello , nice video , but kpro 4 also has closed loop target tables for that work with wideband input at wot , i have it working .

Awsome video!

Thanks, great info.

Great information!!!!

Is there anyone who comes close to Steve Dinan from the honda community?

A kpro ecu is 900$ Elite for only $800? Sign me up! Take my checkbook

Lol how is that technical love the content

great comparison.

Ok I'm part way into this video and you've already explained something with traveling and changing Pumps. I changed from a Walbro 255 to a DW300. PSI went from 43 to 60 and Lap Times dropped but when I go from one end of my State to the other (fuel tables I'm on about now) the K Series 2147cc na (revs 5700 to 9100) is down on power, feels lazy and the Exhaust runs Rich. Guess my Table is off. I presently have Hondata. Injectors are modded std as in they have the ends ground off and test at 480cc. What's your best suggestion to fix this problem to make the engine more consistent? Need any more info??? Also there is no Honda Hondata Tuners with a 7 hour drive of me. The original car builder (12 years back is 18 hours drive).

A lot of good info

Question, so I’m about to be done building a d16 with a Garrett T04e 57 trim turbo, trying to make around 400hp-450hp range. Do you guys think it’ll be a good idea to use an S300 for tuning or should I spend more and get the haltech or some stand alone system? Friend keeps telling me to use the haltech elite 1500 and for good reason bc it has many fail safe features so it’ll be best at keeping me reliable but I really don’t want to add that huge expense to the d series build... any thoughts would be appreciated

Good info!

I have an 04 rsx type s that I'm building the k20 and putting a turbo on. Goal 400-430whp. Street car. But I'm so lost on what I need to do with that transmission . I know I'm going with an lsd I just don't know what transmission or if I can make the 6 speed good? I just want a transmission that can handle mild Street activities without always having to pull a broken transmission. Any tips?

#1 yeeeaaa boyyyyy

What do you think of the ecumaster black?

I'm up grading to a Holinger 6 Speed Sequential with Paddle Shifters plus Injectors plus a lot of other stuff but still na K25 with TB's. Will the Hondata still run it or is time to up grade???

Is there a conversion harness for the tsx k24a swap in the ek and cheaper tuning solution or is the standalone the only up to date solution seeing why people go k20 the cheaper tuning and conversion works hassle free?

still in the process of putting my car together b20 turbo. still havent decided on a ecu though i could get a new hondata or i have the opportunity to buy a used AEM 30-1001 SERIES 1 for about 200-300 dollars less what would you recommend?