Thx Coolkeys. Your right. I just had to check the AC theory on a hoover motor and as you said.. It indeed does not make any difference to the direction of rotation. Thanks John

+Ashish Pala You're welcome Ashish. Thank you for commenting.

Thanks friend.

Thanks Chipmunk :) Agreed my friend, the motor is quite a strong device when its running...I've not testing it boes it does seem to just STOP against the microswitch when it's activated, so unless it's got some sort of internal clutch etc (which I doubt) it's under some stress all the time really. Not just in that 'ON' position either. Once power is cut the return spring is really strong to and really whips that gear around thus pulling the mechanism back. Actually the rather weak metal plates holding this whole thing together bend under the return spring tension :o Thought I was subbed back to you but it seemed not. I am now though :) Thanks friend John

Ah ok... Good to hear your getting along ok with it now. I actually don't believe you'd have any better luck if you're house was brand new.. As nothing seems to work, or fit correctly these days does it.. Hehee 😊 Cheers John

darkbyte2005 Thanks for the comments friend.. Glad the vid was helpful

Thanks David 👍️

@@OrbiterElectronics Bought a replacement motor, this morning from Wolseley's - home to fit it. 10 minutes later: Bingo! Job done - Cheers - David.

@@davidwilliams6334 Good to hear.. Nice job mate 👍

people got kicked off you tube by using the F word...I know you dont mean any harm but You tube monitor comments closely

I guess It doesn't matter how it works.. as long as it works :) *thumbs up*

Hi.. Yes you could.. Obviously though please be careful when connecting it. Also don't hold the motor when you turn it on just in case there is an internal short, you may just get 240v mains on the motors case!!. If I remember correctly the syncron motor gear only rotates slowly so you'll either see it moving, or it will have failed.

Thank you 👍

Hi.. Sorry but I can't really help you there :( The reason is that I've not seen enough of these to be able to enlighten you on the direction of rotation. I know that when I was buying my motor I just opted for the one that looked the same & stated that it.."fitted the most common type of valve".... so I guess if there are few types of valve, there must be a few types of motor too and perhaps they differ in a rotational way?

There are manual controls on the side or top of the syncron motor housing but these are mainly used to override the mechanism if say the motor has failed etc. I'm not a specialist in these things but I believe once the motor is at it's maximum travel it acts a bit like a clutch, in that the internals outer part keeps spinning, keeping pressure on the gear mechanism and thus the relay triggered to keep the boiler active. Only when power is removed will the motor stop & the whole mechanism return under spring tension.

ray holmes Hi Ray.. I'm sorry but I can't really advise on what the problem could be, I'm no specialist where heating is concerned. Although.. I believe a diverter valve can also cause these issues so I've provided a link regarding testing.. This is entirely at your own risk of course as you maybe working around mains voltages here! blog.superwarm.co.uk/ultimate-guide-to-diagnosing-a-faulty-boiler-diverter-valve

Hi.. I assume your talking about the top/bottom half of the valve/motor assembly? If so then yes its important they they fit together properly and that the gear can engage with the mechanism. The mechanism only moves slowly so keep your eye on it. the motor should turn the mechanism until the switch is activated. Assuming you have the same type of motor assembly as in the video you could try moving the valve manually via the small lever on the motor housing, if you try this and the radiators start to get warm, you'll know its either the motor or valve/mechanism not working properly.. PLEASE NOTE that mains voltage are present on and around these parts. If you're not sure it is best to get an engineer to test it for you.

You're quite correct 👍.. I was the one who wasn't thinking. I guess I just spend too much time with DC ☺️

syd bell .. Perhaps like us you'll have more than one motor & diverter valve.. if the boiler is going off though that sounds like a different issue. If this motor wasn't a fix for us it would have been time for a heating engineer visit.

Would normally agree,but we had not hot water or heating until l changes Syncron motor.

Hi Simon.. If I remember correctly my motor was doing the exact same thing as yours & wasn't contacting the mirco-switch at the end of it's travel. So our heating or hot water wasn't turning on. So as the motors were only about £12 I ended up replacing it. With regards to repair, I'm not sure as i've never bothered with that. But I'd doubt a repair would last anyway. As attached to the motor is it's small gearbox, this houses very small narrow plastic gears.. And what happens is these gears unfortunately strip teeth when they age, this then affects the travel length of the lever arm, meaning that it often doesn't reach the micro-switch as it should. Once a few teeth have stripped the motor/gearbox no longer works

You're welcome 👍

Whilst powered, only the cage @2:35 is continually spinning at speed. There is then space between that cage and the inner magnet assembly, this creates pulses. And acts a bit like a magnetic clutch turning an inner hub via reduction gearing, then it turns the small outer brass gear. So as the motor is powered & thus the cage always spinning, via magnetic fields a small rotational force is always kept on the brass gear that will then hold a small water valve open. Only when power is removed can the whole mechanism reverse & return to it's starting position under spring tension. There is no internal friction as such, just magnetic fields being used, followed by reduction gearing to create a small amount of torque to turn the little brass gear. Hope this helps a bit.

The box part on it's own is called the 'head can' I believe & is like this.. tinyurl.com/yjwz4ob8

@@OrbiterElectronics Thank you so much! 🥰 We've been trying to find the part for hours ! I am in Canada so it's a 120v version but now I know what to look for thanks to you.

@@adriiko You're welcome 👍

Go to ebay and type '240v syncron motor'. You'll see loads of them 👍

@Mircea Hi.. As far as I know there is no switch inside the motor itself. But there is one in the mechanism the motor is screwed to. The motor is either on or off depending on the signal from the main boiler PCB. The motor not only opens & closes the water valve but it also operates the spring mechanism in the housing it is screwed to, depending on the demand for hot water or heating. You can see this lever mechanism & micro-switch at 4:45. Hope this helps

@Mircea Sorry.. It was my fault, I did see the full comment but forget about answering that bit 😮 When the motor is powered it pulls against the spring, lever & arm mechanism that is attached to the valve, once the mechanism reaches the full extent of it's travel a small lever also presses on the micro-switch telling the boiler & pump to come on. At this point I 'think' the motor is still spinning to hold the gear and mechanism at full travel and the switch depressed. When the heating is switched off, power is cut to the motor & the spring mechanism pulls the lever & arm mechanism back to it's original resting position. The motor gear also turns at this point as the whole mechanism is in reverse due to the return spring tension.

Hi.. No it's an AC motor so it doesn't matter.

I believe there are few varients, but I just picked one from ebay that was the same voltage spec and looked the same as the failed one we had.

@@OrbiterElectronics Thanks for the reply. I wasn't sure about the voltage as some are 110, I thought the control board might reduce the power for this to work. Since then i've found a 230v

Just a quick question. I have the two screw release which was a relief. Once it was of I wanted to test that the valve was not seized. I did move about 5mm. Is this about right....should it move more, I was reluctant to put any pressure when turning.

@@glenn20081965 The valves themselves don't move that much really.. perhaps a quarter turn. You can check its working though once everything is assembled. By making sure that when the valve is open.. both input and output pipes are hot 👍

@@OrbiterElectronics Sorry to bother you again, I was wondering if you had some advice on a specific issue. I've just bought a three-way motorised zone valve head. However, before fitting the new valve I took the cover off to inspect the item. I moved the manual slider across to see if all was ok, on doing this I noticed that the tabs that are supposed to make contact with the two internal switches only barely touch the spring-loaded levers. The tabs only just touch but don't press the switches that activate the boiler. The switched can be heard clicking if pressed with a small screwdriver, but as I say the tabs don't fully engage with the switches when manually operated. I emailed the Amazon seller and he advised that they should fully engage when fitted onto the 3 port valve and that the motor would give more torque. If this was the case, then what would be the purpose of the manual valve?...is the manual valve only supposed to open the valve and nothing else. Is he talking rubbish? I can send back for a replacement, but I thought I would ask before doing so. Thanks in advance.

Thanks mate.. It's been over 4 years now but we still miss him every single day.

In the UK we have 240v AC electrical systems. In the video I'm using a 220-240v AC Honeywell Synchronous motor.. You can see the 230v @50Hz specs stamped on it's case here.. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fL5kh9Bn0OC6nnU.html

Sorry but I'm not a plumber or heating engineer buddy, so I wouldn't like to advise you on the wrong thing to do there. Sorry.

Thank you.