Really useful. The early part explaining how to manually open with the lever has kept us warm whilst the new motor was getting delivered. Thank you.

NEVER think that these videos are boring. They are massively useful! Great job.

I'm a relatively experienced DIY plumber and found this very helpful, thank you.

I was about to change the pump until I saw this video. You've saved me a lot of time and money. New valve head fitted and everything ticking over perfectly again. Thank you.

Always a pleasure watching your videos Al 📺📺💯💯💯💯

Always great tuition, thank you professor of plumbing. Peace be unto you.

Very useful, especially since all gas engineers are fully booked this time of year and now that I know how to check out the valve, I just have to wait for the system to cool down a bit. I'll probably have a closer look tomorrow.

Thank you! Your videos are so helpful....this helped me find the issue with my system!! 👍

Thank you sooo much, absolutely perfect 👍 So clear, so precise, no worries at this end at all now. 👍

Thanks Al for the easy to follow video.

Thank you for this video, a real insight into the valve! 👌🏻🙌🏻

Great video Al 👍 Just a note to folks : the older Honeywell valves you can't remove the head completely - otherwise you'll get very wet. You can tell which one you have as the older one has four inner screws to remove and no dimples on the top cover, the newer version has two screws and dimples in the top cover 👍

Thank you so much for this video it has been extremely helpful I've been living in a new flat and struggling with the central heating running all summer just to get hot water. I complained to the letting agent, who promptly told me that I was incorrect saying it was the motorised valve, and told me to use the immersion heating rather. Got hit with a 600 euro bill this month. But now I know I am correct and am going to stick the bill right to the letting agent and tell them to get a plumber in here asap.

Many thanks for this video, I have this problem so will investigate,thanks to your instruction I don't feel quite so perturbed.❤👍

Good video Al and the new camera is so sharp!!!

Very helpful to understand how it works and very clear explanation, thank you!

Excellent video. I will definitely give this a go. Many thanks in advance.

very informative,thanks Al

From the start of your video I knew I would get my heating to work, you have that look of wisdom about you. July gone I had a Google Nest installed heating was working fine when tested but hadn't used it since then - called the tech that installed the unit, he did mention the valve might be stuck closed but failed to mention there was a manual override on the bottom, I couldn't see that part as it's in the boiler cupboard back to front hidden by pipework….not sure how they installed it! after a few burns to my hands and arms I managed find it and got the valve to stay open manually, there is resistance on the lever so I'm hoping I don't have to change it when it's back to auto mode, right now though I need to heat the house as its an ice box. You possibly saved me £200 quoted from the tech, as it seems an easy fix, can't thank you enough maybe I can buy an ice cold beer for you one day!🍻👍

Thanks. I started unscrewing box and then something snapped and duddenly valve is closing and opening again. Hope is not temporary. But if problems apears again thanks to you i will know what to do. Your explanation is straight forward and English easy to understand. Thank you.

Very helpful indeed, great video and simple to follow!

Great - I have had problems with a number of zone valves where the tap itself has got a bit stiff and this has caused the place where the zone valve keys into it (invariably made of plastic) to 'round out' and not be a tight fit - then you get all sorts of intermittent problems. Probably down to hard water jamming up the actual tap valve. One to look out for!

Hi Al, and Jen, thanks for the video, one of my friends has a problem whith the 3way valve, I'll pass the details on , hoping your both ok , just heard were going into tier 3 from Monday, so I'll be looking for more diy jobs to do, even some plumbing,lol, keep the videos coming Al, it's the first place I look when I've a problem, cheers, stay safe , best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart.uk.

Brilliantly explained, thank you for sharing 🙏

God Bless you Sir - the stat called for heat but no pump running or boiler so I manually pushed the override lever and Boom! pump and boiler runs. The micro switch was not latching - this is the third time I will be replacing the micro switch with the proper rated switch from RS Components - it might be due to sludge in the valve making it sticky but I have flushed my system twice over the years

Very informative video, thank you so much, one question. How do i know if i have a 2 or 3 port valve actuator. I have printed on my old one honeywell f5 9308? Thanks in advance Mick

heya mate, these videos have been very helpful to me. i have an issue that you could probably solve. i have an eph controls v228p 2 port motorised valve zoning HW fron CH. This week the water was struggling to get hot(38 degrees after hours) CH working fine. i moved valve lever to make sure it was working and opened the balancing valve a bit. this seemed to solve it. The issue is now the HW is heating when the radiators should only be on. Its joined to an evohome system.

Great video , I have 2x two way motorized vales with hot pipes either side but like warm water in taps ?

Thank you you are a live saver

Brilliant video!

Very useful mate ta 👍

Hey Al, thanks for the great videos. If I put the actuator in manual position and that does not cause the boiler and pump to start, is it likely a problem with the microswitches instead of the motor? My symptoms are hot water working but suddenly no heating. The valve is open in the manual position because if I put hot water demand on by turning up the cylinder stat, the boiler and pump start up and water flows to the rads. However, even though there is heating demand, as soon as hot water is satisfied, the boiler and pump stop.

Very helpful. Thanks.

Hi Al...you use to be able to buy just the ball and oparating arm on the mounting plate at a fraction of the cost of a new complete valve assy...do you know if and where you can buy them..great video..thanks.

Good vid Al, I have the 3 way valve, which is about 12 years old. I've been having a problem with the heating not coming on when timer comes on but hot water comes on, which when I turn off the heating heats up, it's intermittent, being that sometimes it all comes on and heats up or only one or the other heats up, so am having to manage it. Would this be a fault with the motor electronics, I've taken the motor off and checked the spindle and that's nice and free.. I'm also wondering if a very old mechanical room thermostat can cause the problem, it doesn't seem all that accurate with the clicking on and off, but will be replacing that anyway with a digital stat soon. Thanks Dave.

Thank you so much for making these videos! Quick question if you don’t mind… my heating downstairs has stopped working, but heating upstairs and hot water throughout the house is fine. I have a combi boiler and two of these 2 way motorised valves in my airing cupboard - one of the valves (upstairs I assume) feels warm to touch as it’s been running for the heating this morning, the other (downstairs?) is stone cold. What would you suggest in this case?

Good one! Thanks!

I've changed a few heads on these valves in the last 30 or so years. It used to be the motor burning out that was the weakness but now it appears to be the mechanism that operates the microswitch. I suspect the geared drive has worn and jumped and the arm no longer touches the microswitch. The last one I replaced had done this and the same today on a valve head fitted less than three years ago. Is this a known weakness, otherwise known as built-in obsolescence?!

Thanks, saved me a massive headache

Hi Derek I have home emergency cover and this happens to me every year. The heating engineer just changes the 3 port valve but I wondered what the underlying cause could be? They never change the brass valve and wondered if this could be making the 3 port valve fail each year?

Just to add that I have a tempest solar system with two 2 way valves. One is tempest the other Drayton. When turning on the water the boiler does not come on unless I move the arm on the 2 way valve to manual, however the spring does not allow me to place the arm in the little groove. On having both central heating and water switched on, the central heating is fine, any thoughts please

Hiya, I have a similar issue,HW not coming on but rads working fine. Today I held the manual button on and it worked fine but won't work in auto. Can I assume it's the Detach valve that needs to be replaced. Thanks for the video, very informative.

Hi, my heating and hot water is controlled through Heatmiser thermostats. When I turn on heating, I can hear the motor opening etc, but is the lever at the top supposed to move across physically to manual or does it remain in auto and just a motorised sound comes through? Help will be appreciated. To confirm, both are working fine but just want to know what visual is supposed to look like.

Thanks for uploading. My boiler is a Vaillant ecoTEC plus 624 system boiler. Heating works (can see the valve open) while hot water not. Turning to hot water, nothing happens. I manually open the valve, the boiler does not start.

Do you ever see any problems with the microswitches in valve head? I have a new head to go on my system (S plan so a 2 way honeywell valve) and am hoping that is the issue. Standard F+E system and the boiler cycles with the heating but heat never gets to the rads (HW no problem). I am guessing it is a valve issue. Also hoping its the head as I don't fancy changing the valve body. Had a problem with the HW about 12 months ago and it was the head in that case.

I had one of these whole motors fitted today as I’ve had hot water but no heating for the past two weeks, finally got heating today for about an hour then it decided it was going to stop working again. Bit confused about what to try next. Only had this problem since my new programmer got put in so all I can think it’s something to do with that?

If the 3 port valve has wear or crud blockage , could it result in some hot water for rads leaking into the hot water pipe and heating the water in the immersion cylinder?

Hi I've got a question Al I've had a Worcester Bosch combi boiler fitted three days ago and my flue pipe is dripping lots of water on the outside floor is this normal thanks

I have a Banico ZVD 3 way, port A goes to heating and port B to the hot water cylinder. Wiring is Neutral to blue, earth to green/yellow and live to white. In this configuration it appears the valve is always powered on which doesnt seem right? The configuration I think I need is normally powered off so port A is default, and power on to activate port B while hot water cylinder is being heated. Any idea how this can be done?

Hi - I just replaced my Banico valve about 4 weeks ago. The heating worked perfectly but the push connector has now come apart and doesn’t want to stay together. Very strange ! Have you come across this previously ? Many thanks for your videos. Much appreciated 👍😉

Hi mate. I have this valve and radiators come on when only hot water is on. If I lower the switch it goes back to the top when I turn hot water on. Switch does nothing when I turn just heating on. Any ideas?

Hi, we have the ST9400C next to the boiler and in our house the CM927 thermostat. The water heating seems to work fine … the heating this year we are having a slight issue. The heating comes on at the right time and the radiators all warm up - but when the thermostat reaches the correct temperature the radiators do not switch off. I have checked the pairing between the CM927 and the little box (HC60NG Relay Box) on the wall beneath the ST9400C and they seem to be paired OK. The flame does go off of the main thermostat (CM927) when the heat reaches the desired temperature and also the green light on the small unit goes off (HC60NG Relay Box) . But the radiators seem to just stay on … where as before the radiators used to switch off at the desired heat. Also when the rooms reach the desired temperature - the boiler just stays on. Do you think there may be an issue with the Honeywell Home V4043H 1056 zone valve, we seem to have 2 of them. We can use it as it is - just turning on and off by the boiler as and when - but would ideally like the thermostat to work. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I have the same Honeywell diverter valve and set it to Manual and it worked (for about 20 minutes. After that the radiators went cold again. Aside from this, is there something I should also be doing or is the valve faulty. I recently moved into my house and the heating had been off. What are the red taps? I have three and one is directly above the '1,2,3" pump which is connected to the diverter valve. Any help is appreciated.

Hi, I have the opposite issue. The heating stays on when the thermostat turned well down and the timer switches set to OFF. Is this likely to be a valve issue or a faulty timer?

After locking the valve switch in manual position, my valve comes out of manual mode by itself after about 15 mins? Can the boiler or timer cancel the manual mode by sending a signal? Or is the valve just closing itself

Should the motorised valve be “returning” when both central heating and hot water are turned off? It only seems to return when I turn the power off.

At 2.50 you say what if the lever is floppy and you dont say more about it, If yje lever is floppy is it likely to be a burnt out motor?

For the last 10 years or so, I have had issues with the Honeywell 3 Port Diverter valve, in that I have suddenly only had Hot Water and No Heating. On one or two occasions I replaced the top-plate of the diverter valve because the ball-valve swivel had become stiff, but on all other occasions I have replaced the Actuator Head to restore Central Heating. On one occasion more recently, I successfully replaced just the motor in the actuator head (which was a lot less expensive). However, last week I woke up to find that we had Central Heating upstairs only, and the downstairs radiators remaining cold. Naturally I feared that the circulation pump had finally failed after 25 years of loyal service; but as a first step, I removed the actuator head from the diverter valve to visually check that it was OK and that the ball-valve swivel worked freely. I re-assembled and switched on the boiler, but the same symptoms prevailed. Therefore, with the boiler still switched on and in Central Heating only mode, I checked the voltage on the circulation pump - ZERO!! - so the fault is somewhere else! With the supply to the burner disconnected (so that I could lift the control panel & it’s box of tricks out of the way) I removed the cover from the Diverter Valve Actuator Head, hoping to see how it worked when switching between C/H & H/W - it seemed to OK, but still no voltage at the circulation pump. With the intention of changing the Actuator Head yet again, I started to slacken the two screws securing the Actuator Head to the Valve Body, when I heard the Circulation Pump start, and yes! - 240 Volts at the pump!! Evidently the limit switch inside the actuator head was not being activated, but worked fine with the actuator head securing screws backed-off by about one turn. Leaving all as it now is, I put everything else back in place and reconnected the burner, and It’s now bee working normally for the past 6 days without the need to replace anything - just slacken 2 screws a bit! Long may it last!! Hope this might be of help to someone, but be VERY careful when working on the boiler with the power ON!! 19/02/23

so I have 2 zones. ground floor and first floor both controlled by thermostat. Heating is constantly on and when temp is not the desired one it will send signal and boiler kicks in and starts heating the zone it needs. First floor heating stopped working and I did move this lever to manual and it was giving proper resistance when moving. Now the first floor heating works when ground floor heating kicks in. Now my question is: Is it still faulty valve? why boiler does not start? I can't find diagram that would tell me what is giving signal to start what, I thought thermostat -> control unit -> boiler -> valve. but no idea...

Hi my central heating is coming on but my water is not heating up when i put it on .is this a valve problem to. Thanks

If I set it to manual, will my thermostat be able to control how hot my floors get?

I used this video to fit a new valve in December 2022 and it was a huge help, but now it appears to have failed because there is no resistance in the spring, and the heating is not coming on as regularly as it should.A few days ago I used a peg to hold the lever in the manual position but it has not done much good. The valve I purchased was from Amazon and is a 'Team Controls' valve and cost about £31.00. Despite messaging them they have not responded. Do you think I have bought too cheap? I am trying to get a refund through my credit card company. Can you recommend a replacement please that is 'mid range' regarding cost?

My heating wii not switch on until i turn the hot water on then its ok .i have to have both ontogether will this be the same fault brilliant video very much appreciated thanks If you take a photo of the wiring that will help to remember correct replacment

My myson power extra 2 port valve works 1st off then shortly after the heating stops then I have to push the side over to make the boiler fire up?

Thanks. My valve is failing intermittently. Put a new one on 7 years ago. Fails about once a week always when I’m at work and my wife is freezing calling me in the office. Hoping it’s just the motor as it was only 4 months ago I had to drain it down and replace the water pump.

I've got a two way valve that's playing up sometimes it's working and sometimes it's not. Could it be it just need some WD-40?

When that lever is moved over and the heating comes on, do you have to move the leaver back over again to turn the heating off again?

Is it possible for the valve arm to still move properly when disconnected but electrically the motor is dead?

I have had this valve malfunction twice on me in the past having to call out an engineer. It has been fixed on both occasions but I wonder what the engineer actually did to get it working again. I've switched on and off and on again at the controller with no luck, so does the valve just stick or the motor not function? I'm interested to find out to save calling an engineer and wait for his arrival if I can rectify the situation myself. They do seem prone to malfunctioning! Cheers.

is "mid position valve" the correct name?

Hi, I replaced the motorised valve with a new one as it was clicking and not staying on. It worked at first. However it stopped working. I took it off to take a look and now it seems that the little lever is not moving the switch/spring on the inside. It seems like i broke this new part :-( Any idea what i did wrong? Would the best thing to do be the buy another one and attempt it again? Thanks👍

Hi if you could help I would be very grateful. I have a telford copper cylinder 2 way valve 230v art 60521623. When buying a new 2 way valve i noticed the back plate fitting is different with the turning valve not able to fit. Do you know of any like for like replacements please.

My 3 port honeywell valve hums even when the hot water and heating is not required. Is this normal? Its not loud. Thanks in advance..

What about no heating and the boilers pump not running neither. Programmers on for heating and theromstat turned up/

Can I temporarily remove the valve motor and manually open the valve and leave it so that heating is always on?

How would I know if I have a 3 way valve?

Please help, the lever on mine is stuck and will not allow me to put it into manual mode. I’m getting loads of hot water and no central heating. Thanks so much for the video and a swift reply would be very gratefully received :) my dad is 90 years old

hi al, i have a y plan system and every-time i tur the heating on, downstairs in the front room theres a very noticeable clicking /tapping noise in the wall where im guessing my copper pipes are going to the rads. is there anything that you could suggest to stop the noises from happening, TIA 👍👍

I'm sure you realize that you are showing close up items out of focus. You need to hold them back a little from the lens.

You never explained what a loose lever would mean 😢

These valves are a rubbish design. The valve motor is permanently energised when switched to heating so that means it's energised for 6 months a year. No wonder they fail.

I have a combi boiler on how to air out ?

In my system, about 3 meters pipe next to boiler very hot but after not hot What that mean ? Thanx