as a newbie homebrewer, your channel has been of great value, thanks a lot!

Such a useful video, answered every question I had and many more. All delivered in a easily accessible way, perfect.

These videos have single handily become one of my favorite resources. Thanks for taking the time to share the information, David!!

David I brewed a 10 liter batch of your Citrus Orange Wit 8 weeks ago bottled it and it has become the most delicious beer ever.

Great video again mate. Youre right about the A.A%. some hops here in australia are up to 5% different than what is on brewfather. Adjustments are needed.

Very informative! Many thanks

As ever, very educational and interesting. Thanks for taking the time to do this.

This was great to a new starter like myself looking to experiment with hops.

Hello, I recently read an interesting chapter in Toni Nottebohm's book „Hopfenliebe“ (hop love) about the bitterness contribution of dry hopping. I wanna quote+translate it here and wonder what you think of this. Maybe this would also make an interesting experiment :) ... „Bitterness can also get into beer throughdry-hopping. Oxidized alpha acids, humulions, are easily transferred into beer through dry-hopping. Humulions have around two-thirds the bitterness of iso-alpha acids and contribute most to the bitterness of dry-hopping. It has been observed that they produce a gentler bitterness than iso-alpha acids. The reason for this is the more polar molecular structure of humullones, which is why they do not stick to the tongue as strongly. However, dry-hopping also removes iso-alpha acids from the beer because they stick to the plant material of the hops and precipitate with it. At the same time, humulions are introduced. Studies have shown that beers with less than 20 IBUs tend to become more bitter when dry-hopping (approx. 3 g/l), while beers with more than 30 IBUs become less bitter. The more hops are added during dry-hopping, the more iso-alpha acids are precipitated and the more humullones are transferred to the beer. Humullones have around ten times more influence on beer bitterness than the polyphenols, which are also extracted during dry-hopping. Alpha acids also pass into the beer, but only develop 10% of the bitterness of iso-alpha acids. Beta acids and oxidized beta acids, on the other hand, have almost no influence on bitterness, as they are very poorly soluble in beer. Interestingly, these effects can mean that a dry-hopped beer and a beer that is only hopped during wort boiling can have the same IBUS, but taste very differently bitter.“ ... Best Regards!

Good David, thank you. Filled in more gaps which I guess will continue as long as you keep putting up vids. I'll go thru it again to assimilate what I missed the first time.

Another great video, thanks David. I use use your videos as reference tool whenever I am planning my brews.

Hi, David, thanks for your suggestions and the info in the video.I'll follow it. Regards, Colin

Thanks David! Most informative. I also enjoyed the great Hop Tea video and look forward to trying that.

Thank you for this information. Tom from NJ

Excellent video and information. It will help me a lot in my future brews.

I brew a lot of pale ales and ipas. In general I will use first wort hops for bittering, I like that it drops the sharpness I'm there bitterness. and at the end of boil I'll drop to about 160 degree F and hop burst/hop stand for an hour to maximize flavor/minimize bitterness. Then I'll dry hop usually at the tail end of primary In about 3 days in and sometimes as soon as it goes into primary like in a neipa. I've been pretty happy with the results using these methods. Malt balance is key too in order to really lift those hop flavors.

Thanks for another informative video David. Just about to bottle my version of your Belgian Dark Strong Ale, 12months conditioning, and i am eagerly looking forward to a carbonated tasting:) Cheers

Thanks for the video very informative. I thought there was some magic formula needed to work our desired IBU so thanks for clearing that up

Another great video. Thanks, David!

Thanks for another great video David. Can you please explain a bit more about hop bursting, what it's for and how to do it?

Hi David...Love your videos; VERY helpful!! One question regarding first wort hop additions...I am making a beer that calls for this method and I am using a Grainfather. Do I just dump the hop (pellets) on top of the screen before sparge, or do I add them to he wort? The next addition is at 30 minutes (all hops are Citra). Thanks for your time and great, helpful videos!

Brilliant. Answered some questions I had. Thanks mate.

Hi David a very helpful informative video , thanks Ivan

I received some advice on dry hopping from a professional brewer out here in Southern California. He recommended that dry hopping is best performed for 24-48 hours toward the end of activate fermentation. The shorter contact time reduces the chances of getting a vegetal or horse blanket type of flavor/aroma and the yeast will consume or precipitate out some of the less desirable volatile compounds. I tried this with a recent NE IPA brew and it has the best hop flavor and aroma of any beer I've brewed. You can also get some excellent results by dropping cryo hops into the keg for a longer duration (the cryogenic process removes astringent flavors and vegetative cone material). I added some cryo Citra and Mosaic to my keg with lovely results (note: I removed the keg from my keezer for about two weeks to get the temperature up during the process).

Just what i was looking for. Thanks!

Great videos about hopping!. So technically, if I forgot to Steep the hops in the end of a boil (for aroma), should I dry hop it or make a tea? Making your Bohemian pilsner with saaz.

Awesome channel!! I look forward to every Wednesday for the next one and to see what you are drinking on Friday's! I searched through the comments so as not to repeat anything and didn't see my question, so hear it goes. When dry hopping using a bag, let's say an NEIPA, should I remove the bag after the 3-5 days contact time and let the beer condition or transfer the beer to a keg to condition to get it off the dry hop? I understand that oxygen is the enemy, especially for that style, so if I remove the bag, I will obviously be introducing oxygen. I guess I could remove the bag, then purge with CO2? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thank You.

Interesting stuff. Cheers.

Great video again. Questions on your comment of using 10% more hops if using a hop spider. 1. Is this 10% the same for bittering, Aroma and flameout? 2. How do you deal with the additional 10% in your brewing software? if I up the quantities it will change the IBU's for the recipe. 3. Is the 10% based on weight or IBUs? Thanks.

So far, I am still in the novice stage as I have been brewing less than 2 years. I have only hopped my beer in the boil. I am considering dry hopping a malty beer because I don't care for the flavor of malt with very little hop flavor.

David, will you make a video on how to sparge properly and increase efficiency? Thanks

Hi David, hop utilisation seem like a real mystery to me. Temperature and time are 2 variables that seem to impart a varying outcome, and I probably over think trying to be more precise with my results. But when brewing the Marris Otter / Citra Smash, I tried to use my taste bud to see how long it would take to extract the resins from the pellets. I used the hop spider and spoon to sample over time, but even after 30min there are still considerable flavour being extracted. The temperature I used was 80*C to begin down to 60*C. Listening to you video on hop tea compared to DRY hopping is very interesting and for the reasons why,, as I see it. I want to explore hop tea instead of dry hopping for when pressure fermenting. Just add the tea to the bottle and open the valve. No vegetal matter going into the fermenter and potentially no grassy taste. Right? Cheers and thanks again Michael

Hi David, a question regarding first wort hop addictions, I read Somewhere in homebrew forum that the ibu of fwh should be the same perceived by a 20min Hop addiction, how do you calculate your fwh ibu? Btw, just won 1st and 2nd place in a local homebrewing competition, I owe you a lot, you made a huge difference, I cant even compare my actual beer to the One I brewed 6 months ago. THANKS!

David, I'm brewing an IPA and I really want a strong orange aroma and flavor. Currently I plan on using citra for bittering then amarillo at flame out, amarillo at peak fermentation, followed by another addition of amarillo day 5 or 7 of fermentation. I am considering using sweet orange peel also. I would greatly appreciate your input. Thank you.🍻

Subtitles intro: three beer it’s good fire (music) tea Nanna lie down. lol, I like to sing “ I am gonna drink beer till I need to lie down”. Not the actual lyrics to the intro. :)

Hi David. So I think I have a method of injecting hop tea into my primary fermenter using a kegland T from a PET bottle purging that bottle. Question is, is hop tea as effective as dry hopping in your opinion? And do I risk a lot of oxidation? I could purge the bottle as much as I want with CO2 and transfer to the keg. I've not used hop tea before. I know I could just try it but trying to learn this method without messing. Up to bad. Lol. 🍻

A valuable video as always - quick question........I'm about to do my first dry hop, following the Brewdog Punk IPA recipe which calls for 6 different hops (200g in total) to dry hop for up to 5 days. I watched your other hop video showing the tea infusers which I will get hold of but is there an issue with putting all 6 hops in the same infuser - or a smallest number which will adequately hold everything (with some extra room allowed)? Cheers.

Great video David. Just one question regarding first wort hopping in the Grainfather. How would you get the hops into the wort with the grain basket in the way?

Hi David. Do you find that a hop sock or muslin bag absorbs the hop oils more vs the tea balls when dry hopping? Thanks for your advice . Cheers

When you use your grainfather to make whirpool hops at 80c do you run the hot liquore through the pump for 5 minutes then cool it to 80c using the heat exchange.

Hi David. I'm just planning my latest brew to highlight Ahtanum hops... Was planning 20g Centennial(9%) for 60,then Ahtanum at 20(10g) 10(40g) flameout(25g) and 25g dry hop ,but after your comments on low alphas ( these are 3.8%) thinking of ditching the dry hop ? Should I just put these on the flame out or elsewhere in the boil ?

Great Video as always! Those leggings made me "hoppy" but it's doubtful she drinks a lot of beer with a body like that. Do you usually wait 30-60 minutes before cooling the wort with flameout hop additions? I personally have never, I usually start cooling right after flame out and keep the hops in there during the cooling faze which usually takes 30-40 minutes. Also, the last comment "when using a hop spider" is that only in regards to frozen hops? *cheers

I have a question regarding flameout, whirlpool, and hopstand. I will shortly be making my very first brew and have been slightly confused by a lot of incompatible and not always clear information from the myriad of sources out there. My plan is to use a low amount of bittering hop throughout the boil and adding flavour/aroma hops in the end. The setup will be quite basic. When whirlpooling and doing a hopstand, do you start at flameout and is it important to chill as quickly from flameout to ~80C and then add your hops for the whirlpool and hopstand? And do you then keep the temperature high or continue to cool? How "unsafe" in regards to contaminants is it to not have a quick cooling of your wart? If using a submersion chiller, does this disturb the whirlpool effect enough for it not to be worth the bother? Hope some help can be found out there. :)

Could you tell me how to know how much hops to add to one gallon smash beers? Im not using a brewing calculator yet. Im interested in Belgian pale ale styles of single hop beers. My next project is using jarrylo hops, and im not sure how much to use, so any help would be appreciated.

I've also noticed that you never seem to use a hops spider? I have seen you use the tea strainer with the weights in them and I assume this is a fer better way to allow everything to mix in better? Cheers :)

what is the problem to not use hops in the main boil lapse? (6:45 ). My english is not good enough to hear clearly this part 😅

What are your top 3 favorite hops that you use?

Hey David, re/ 7:53 --> how would you go about combining a "30 minute hop stand" with the best practice to run the 100° C wort through the Grainfather counterflow chiller in order to sanitize it. I'm asking as I was brewing today and ended up with this situation: for the first time I had wanted to add a "hop stand"-hops and as the boiling phase was over I sprinkled the hops into the hopper. As I then stood in front of the setup I noticed the temperature starting to drop and decided to cut out the hop stand in favor of properly sanitizing the counterflow chiller. Any idea/advice on this? Thx!!

Beautiful video again :) One question, David, does it make any sense or have you ever used as an experiment a hop addition in a different way to bring bitterness in a malty beer? i.e. for a london bitter style have you experienced different additions of hops to provide aroma and flavor apart from the addition to give bitterness? Another example: imagine you have a recipe for the famous london pride (which I recently developed, being really good). Have you imagined adding hops traditionally used as bitterness as hoptea or late aditions? and aromatic hops traditionally used to provide aroma and flavor i.e "hallertauer hoptea"? I know it may seem like a "sacrilege" according to the "established norms" but my imagination is great :) Regards!!

5:07 you know, going by your voice I wouldn't have expected you to look this dashing. But I should have known better. The hops-leggings at the beginning of the clip were a dead give away. :D

I've just been putting a hopsock in there, will try the hop tea in the next brew to try it out :) My ipa's get snowglobe syndrome in their second week of carbonation, looks like protein to me, flavour is super. But i have to idea where it;s coming from. Any idea's? O, and i made your bohemian pilsner last week. on point on every thing apart from fermentation. My Glycol chiller died the next morning :( So it has been fermenting at room temp for a week. Have'nt thrown it out yet, but im sure it's not going to taste like a pilsener :(

thx!

My lager had a sweet apple taste/aroma, can I add hops to the keg to make it more bitter or boil them up and pour the filtered liquid into keg?

Thanks this video was particularity helpful tonight as I'm looking at trying a recipe (Warsteiner my favourite beer)from the Grainfather site for the first time and was having difficulty matching the hops requirement with my local brew store as they have the same name but different AA values. I've looked at the GF site but the calculators section doesn't seem to cover this. Is there an easy way to calculate the additional hops required to meet the target AA requirements? Cheers :)

Hi David, I am about to do my first brew with Grainfather mash tun / hop boiler, I have a sparge water heater and two conical fermenters with glycol chiller. The last home brew that I did was way back in the early '80's using Dave lines Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy recipes, and a brewheat boiler. The process that I was used to included adding Irish Moss at the hop boil, followed by primary and secondary fermentations, at the secondary fermentation Gelatine was added. Are these additives and two fermentation stages still necessary? And where can I buy those leggings, are they on the Grainfather web site?

What are your views on the hop rocket

Boy, you do sound like Chain Bear in F1

I had tasted hop chinnok 12,8%AA and sorachi ace 9,5%AA. And sorachi is much bitter then chinnok.?????? Why?????

I'm a 29 year old bearded man and I want those leggings for myself...

Wtf is a gram? I live in America.