+Eddie Stivaoson Thanks Eddie!

+Lance Schul Hi Lance, yes, it will handle ballistic tipped bullets with no problem. It comes with 3 spindles so you can select one that contacts the copper part of the bullet rather than the polymer tip to avoid any damage. Although the pressure the spindle puts on the bullet is minimal and shouldn't be a problem either way. Thanks for watching!

+Dan Steven Hi Dan, very good questions. 1) You only need to hold the rubber knob if the right-hand spindle rotates when you rotate the bullet. I try to avoid it unless it turns when I turn the bullet. If you adjust the tension on the right-hand spindle properly, it shouldn't turn. If it is turning, try adjusting it so there's less tension. Otherwise, yes, you do have to be careful not to skew the results when holding it. You also have to have a light hand to avoid skewing the results when turning the bullet. It takes a little practice to get the right "feel" to turning it. 2) I tend to avoid using the adjustment screw mostly because unless you use a roll crimp on the case/bullet, it tends to change the neck tension because it's twisting the bullet in the neck of the case and that will cause the neck to deform slightly. In extreme cases, it will cause the neck to lose tension altogether and the bullet will slip back into the case. When I do use the adjustment screw, I try to only turn it so that the dial goes up around 0.015" to 0.020". Any more than that and you might get some indentations on the bullet and cause the neck to deform too much. I've never noticed any marks on the bullet though. In any case, it's best to use the gauge as a measurement device only and if you are having concentricity issues, you might want to look at your seating die adjustment and how well the die lines up the bullet just before it gets seated. A higher quality die with a well fitting alignment sleeve might be necessary to reduce run-out during the seating stage of the process. 3) I've wondered about the life span of the pad on the adjustment screw myself. I've been using it for quite a while now and haven't noticed any degradation yet, but I suspect it has to happen eventually. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and for the great questions!

+robert austin It depends a lot on the quality of the die. I also only use dies that have an alignment sleeve that gets everything lined up properly as the bullet is seated. Having a seating stem that is shaped properly for the type of bullet being used (round nose, flat point, etc) also helps a lot. Using the flat seating stem with a round nose bullet or the concave stem with a flat point bullet can throw things off a bit. Some companies, like Hornady, have seating stems you can get that are designed to fit a specific bullet so that helps quite a bit. Regardless of how well my dies perform, I usually check a random group of bullets from a batch just to make sure.

the neck spindle has too much clearance in the frame bore. I have a friend making me a new spindle and pilot. The bore in the spindle for the pilot isn't center either. I feel it's best to have this unit as tight as possible to eliminate errors and not blame sizing and bullet seating.

Nevermind, I saw on the neck wall thickness video that it had a green colored polymer/plastic pad.

Hi, yes, it does have a rubber-like tip so no damage is done to your bullet.

I just bought this gauge. I trued 20 rounds and I my goal was to true each cartridge to < one thousandth. I checked each cartridge again and they were all within this tolerance. Maybe I got lucky.....

+Dan Steven The rim shouldn't be an issue. You could cut the case mouth at a 45 degree angle and the results would still be accurate. What is important is that the centerline of the neck is the same as the centerline of the body at the head of the case. What this tool measures is whether the centerline of the bullet itself is on that same centerline. Since this operation is done on a finished cartridge, the case has been through a sizing die which would correct any minor differences in the centerline. A more pronounced difference would result in a bent case or at the very least a dented side which would be filtered out during case inspections. Excellent question though, it's not readily apparent what is actually being measured. Thanks for watching!

+HornadyLoader I suppose my concern came from my impression that even a FL re-sizer doesn't quite true up the case past the top of the case head (where the head and body meet - you can always see the line on the case after re-sizing). However, after I read your reply, i measured my case rims and saw that I never really saw more than an .0005 run-out on the case rims (even on LC mil brass). All that aside, after watching your video, I purchased one and have had no complaints. Thanks for all the great responses!!!