Honestly I can't speak highly of your presentation skills. Your knowledge is clearly up there with the best, However finding somebody with your explanatory ability and gift for explaining things in a lovely, simple, form has been impossible, until now.

Excellent simple guide to the key elements of a loft conversion. time to get the calculator out and watch the beam calculation video 😀

I am an Architect & Builder. This is very informative and very clearly explained, thank you.

You're videos are amazing. Thank you.

the sketchup presentation really explains everything.....thanks!

Much appreciated. I have my first dormer project as a graduate engineer and it's very insightful to see you break down the load transfer. Will help me for marking up with the racking panels and doubled up rafters where you indicated

I think you have the best channel for timber and steel residential structures

Great info Robin. I am currently planning a dormer loft conversion. This will be extremely useful advice. Thank you!

This is so spot on for the project at my daughter's house which I'm preparing for. The combination of detail with simplicity of explanation is breathtaking. The software used is so versatile and adds such a dimension to Robins skill at breaking down a complex set of processes and bringing them within reach of a competent DIY-er such as myself. Many thanks; so helpful. Peter from Liverpool

Best videos here lads i m highly impressed

Love the channel, thanks so much!

Thanks for posting

Fantastic presentation ❤

Excellent. Thanks

I love how you explain everything in detail❤️ I know that sometimes it's difficult to give definitive answer but I'm wondering if chimney isn't connected structurally with the roof (doesn't support any ridge or rafters) and it isn't part of the party wall (it's erected in the middle of the house) does removing this upper part (above the roof and attick section ) of the chimney requires any permissions or need to be surveyed by any official? 🤔

Just a thought for a future video (inspired by your one on non former wide houses) - in the case of a house of the order 10 metres wide, assume the steel ridge beam would but unrealistically deep. In that case can any ideas be suggested for support from below e.g. two supports, one at 1/3 and one at 2/3. Also is there an option to angle these to the wall plate, rather than straight down. I'm assuming a loft split into three rooms rather than one large open plan space.

Well explained, suscribed

Hi Robert , What is the best way to support the ridge beam on a hip to gable loft conversion as the gable is to be built up in block work but if we built the gable , (mainly to support the ridge beam ) it wont give us much room to work around and give us easy access to the loft space ? any suggestions please. Mike

Great video, really informative. Can you do a video with a double dormer, please?

Hi, thanks for the interesting and informative videos. A non techincal person who is undertaking a loft conversion and trying to understand it all. Do you know what building regs sign off on ceiling heights as it seems such an unclear point on loft conversions? I also note that in this example the ceiling height will be sub 2m even with the steel ridge beam pushed up. You mention in order to raise the beam and fit the wooden dormer rafters from the steel that would be subject to certain conditions - what are those? Many thanks

Hi, can i ask what might be the best roof for this design? I like your video.

How long would it take for this job to be done? Also, how much would this level of work typically cost. At the moment im not sure to have this done or not because i feel i really need to trust someone to do that level of work to the house structurally.

Excellent! What software are you using there?

I have a terrace house and wanting to use the loft as a office / storage. I have two roof perlings and two floor binders going into wall at each ends. I also have a v shaped support which is connected to the roof perling. I want to remove the central support to open up the roof space. I was told by a structural engineer that I can’t span from binder to binder as they not or can’t take the weight even though I said I would double them up with 7 x 2 and tie them into the floor binding. Also he said I needed ridge steel under the roof ridge ? He also said I would have to get steel x 2 to replace the floor binders and come off the vertical to the roof perling .. the question is do I need the steel for the roof ridge as I will be building a dwarf wall up to the roof perlings as I’m removing the central support

Big thanks Robin for that. With a house about 5.5 metres front to back (and roof slope about 42deg) I'm thinking I'm a bit pushed for headroom so the extra floor steel idea is very interesting. The other bit I don't know how to estimate is warm Vs cold roofs. I guess a less desirable cold roof would give more headroom. That might make a good subject for a future video?

Hi Robin. I have an outbuilding which was built about 8 years ago. The roof was engineered by a company and included an attick room. I am thinking of having a dorma to make more of the space. Do you think this would be an issue?

Do I need a steel on the front wall or can I build of the the internal with a 4x 2 wall plate?.

Height being a challenge in loft conversions could you in theory reduce the ridge beam size by have an internal load bearing wall - the load being the dormer roof- near or maybe under the ridge itself.

May I ask if you keep the pitch roof the thin rafter, how to do the pitcher roof insulation? I am facing the problem with my house. I opened the floorboard for the loft to gain a double storey space, but can’t do the insulation.

Within the width of the dormer, is the structural function of the joists limited to holding up the ceiling below?

Is the side wall 5x2 on edge to have a space for the 4" insulation

Great work... could I ask what the sketch program is called?

Thank you! I'm reverting back to Civil Engineering after working as a Chartered Accountant for the last 23 years!. What Software are you using?

Hi thanks for this video and your other videos too, i have seen alot of this in person but never understood it but it all makes sense now you've explained it so simply, one question I did have was how the new floor joists would attach onto the rsj if the joists have been lowered flush to older beams would a slot or notch need to be cut for it to sit onto the rsj? @11.08

Hi Robin, I have a traditional cut pitched roof, in which an internal load bearing wall runs through the centre from gable to party wall. Like in your video, the dormer will be to one side. My architect has indicated that a steel beam would run the length of the roof to support the new floor. Can the internal load bearing wall plate not fulfill this function and enable me to save some height on the pitched side? Perhaps dropping the joists between existing joists, from the centre wall plate to the purlin support?

Is it necessary to sheat the sides of the dormer or can you simply batten and slate?

This is so helpful, I'm about to embark upon my own loft conversion to keep costs down, do in my own time frame but off drawn up plans, some of it doesn't make sense, I'm looking to remove existing purlins in my 100yr old mid terrace that used to be two houses, so I have cross over points that are still supported by a deteriorating old dividing wall, the idea is go through the wall at what will become floor level with a flitch plate beam upon which do a supporting stud to the rafters then hopefully remove old purlins and upper wall This will be the existing roof side then dormer out the other side. I'd love to be able to lift the whole roof off to do new and install purlins, rafters etc but this will be further down the line due to cost. Your presentation has just made total sense of what I should be considering. One question is, do you think a flitch plate beam to be suffice for supporting stud to rafters? span is approx 6.5 mtr with the wall in the middle to offer mid support. I'd have to work out gauges of wood and plates, the current plans for the ridge alone propose 2x 300 x 47 c16 beams bolted together with flitches. I could go on but just wanted to say, think the info is great and would appreciate more advice on my project. thanks

Hey Robin. This has been really educational, thanks. I have an almost identical layout that I'm considering converting. Can you give any idea on minimum steel sizing for this example and how deep into the wall is required? I have 5.5m span between gable walls of brick construction with no cavity. Thanks. 👍

I love these videos. It's given me a boost of confidence. What software are you using?

Hi Robin, im currently developing a house and looking to extend and convert the loft into living space i was wondering if you could help?

Hi Robin. Great video, very helpful and well presented. One question I have regarding the head height and introducing the 2nd RSJ - as shown in the video. Wouldn't the 2nd RSJ create a step in the middle of the room or would this RSJ be shorter in height than it shows in the video? Also what are your opinions of ECO tuss? Would using eco joists for the floor joists mean we could omitt the RSJ in the middle if the roof and create better head height (generally speaking). Thanks.

How do you hide the second beam that breaks up the floor span? The first beam becomes part of the wall, but what about the second ?

Hi Robin great video. Would it be possible to omit the ridge steel and support the ridge with a timber truss or timber box beam as per the other video you have made? This would open up the DIY option further without having to crane up heavy steels into the loft.. I am exploring utilising internal load bearing walls to support a new floor below the ceiling to increase head height in the loft, ideally can remove the need for large steels and keep it down the timber route. Thanks

Great video! If it interests you and you get a cchancecoukd you do one on a hipped roof to a gable end with dormer loft conversion? Thanks!!

What if your house is L shape you have 10ft ceilings and you want to convert only half of the front and half of the back can I drop my ceilings two ft down on these half so that I can have more height in the attic

Nice video thanks for sharing. How would you support the ridge beam if your two gable walls are made from timber rather than brick? I imagine a steel posts of some sort fixed to the inner leaf of the internal blockwork but cant see how this would be stable.

Really insightful video thanks Robin. Wonder if you could answer a quick question. New build house wanting rear dormer extension. Length of the house is about 9.5m any reason why the structural engineer I'm using is reluctant to use steel beams to support the roof? Is 9.5m too long and heavy to use?

Why not just have the floor and ceiling in 1? Have the knee wall act as a box beam and just double up ceiling joists to support floor load?

Thanks Robin for all your videos! Can you use a flitch beam instead of a steel beam for the ridge beam for the dormer? If not, what can be used instead of steel when there is a small awkward space or a lighter alternative?

This is so informative! Can you please tell us if the height of a gambrel roof can be raised either with a dormer, or by making it into a Gabel roof? We have a shed with a gambrel roof. But we would like to lift the roof line on the lofted portion for more head space. We're trying to figure out how that might work.

Great video, we have just taken on a similar project and the engineer has done this with flitch beams and not steel beams/column? I’ve not done one this way before so is tricky to get my head round

Wow ❤

LOVE LOVE LOVE your lessons! Harvard, Cambridge and the like should pay you to design engineering courses...it would increase graduation rates and produce better engineers! This is so fun, you can’t know how grateful I am! Quick question, do you have a lesson on how to figure out my roof pitch and how to increase my roof pitch? I want to add a dormer but I don’t think I have sifficient pitch/head room. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!!

Really like your videos Robin. Wondering if you could answer a query about the RSJs in this configuration being fully restrained vs unrestrained? If I fill the floor steel web with timber and hang my floor joists from there, I would argue it is fully restrained. Would this be the case with the ridge steel, if the flat roof joists were hung in a similar way (not resting on top like in your video)? This would really help with calculating the buckling!!

Hi really interesting insight on this project, can I ask if im doing which I am a loft conversion, on a 1930 semi with a traditional roof. How would you deal with the different size rafters between neighbours and maintaining the same pitch line? the birds mouth would be deeper but would that weaken the timbers

Hi Robin. Great video. I was wondering if there is a way of having a dormer without the top steel. I’m trying to avoid using steels as I’m doing this job on my house alone and my home is a semi-detached bungalow so would like not to get a party wall agreement.

We purchased a home and are the second owners leaving previous owners the original builders. They had 20 years ago also added a dormer just like this to the original 1 bedroom upstairs area. It looks very similar to what you have at the end of the video. However, the dormer has a small sloped roof( not flat) and ends 6 feet or more before the back frame of the house. Directly below where the decided to end the dormer is my kitchen with a massive 3stacked plated wood header. Would it be possible to extend the dormer to the end of the 1st floor framework and be able to get rid of the huge header and if so what would that require of us ? Also would this option here provide opportunity for front dormer as well? We want to maximize space atleast one of the two options but both ideally if realistic. Which of the two would be the best to start with? Thanks again! Very explanatory

Hi robin, I don't quite understand the reason why you drop the new floor joists below the top surface of the new steel beam when the floor will have to ride over this anyway? Are you expecting a step into the dormer?

Hi I would like to know what force is on the ridge beam . I.E. A downward force or sidewards. Could the ridge beam be pushed over when taking away the opposite side ? John

Nice video. amazing software, what software are you using?

Robin, I notice span tables only going upto 220mm...why is that? .... would it be possible, for example, to use 11 x 2 (279mm x 47mm) timbers..to have a span sufficient enough to not need steel at all?

Could you explain the order of works please? Can the entire rear side of the roof be removed in one go before starting to assemble the dormer? Do you need scaffolding in neighbours gardens in order to add the sides to the dormer?

Thanks Robin, why not put the new steel beams within the existing ceiling pack the steel and put new timber joists in?

Hi Robin, my architect says I won't need a middle beam as the spine wall is supporting. It's made of wood on the first floor and brick on the ground, in your experience do you think these are strong enough?

Hi Robin! What programme are you using for these drawings? Thanks

Interesting, both my neighbor and me, in our pre 1890's small terrace houses both have had loft conversions with stairs going up etc. We though putting a dormer conversion on the back sides of our houses to give us headroom and turn the spaces into more substantial rooms would be a good idea. However we've been quoted over £70k each, apparently new regs or something, trusses need to all be replaced, basically a new roof. Seems a bit crazy to me, surely it's possible to strengthen existing beams with steel plate or something?

Any reason why the flat roof part, doesn't have an incline to help the rain flowing?

I just finished my igcse and now I am attending foundation because I don't really know about what career should I choose. I would like to go to architecture but it's kinda hard and low salary. Recently I am researching about IT. can you give me some advice on it. And which college will be better for that 2 subject

👏👏

What size steal beam for ridge beam and flidge beam

are the steels inbeded in gables ?

Is there a structural reason for not taking the dormer all the way to the eaves or is it purely one of aesthetics?

How can you join your loft dormer to your neighbours dormer ,please? There is not even one video explaining it..probably it would be a good opportunity to increase your viewers numbers too,Robin De Jongh,plus it would take out some of my enquires.

I definitely would have dropped that steel into the existing ceiling joists. Would have been worth it despite the poss disruption to the ceiling below.

It would be quicker and simpler if you just took the lot off and put a cut roof on, proper joists and standard steel setup

✅For a loft conversion remember you need an architect! I recommend getting quotes through ArchitectCompare geni.us/architectural

obviously no answer to my question ? bit sad really