🏠Get help with your loft conversion geni.us/loftsurvey

A model of clarity - both visually and verbally

Finally someone explaining this properly excellent

The best and simplest loft conversion explanation i've ever seen - excellent. This demystifies the process and would allow the average person to either do it themselves, or not get ripped off by a builder claiming its much harder than it is. Really glad to have watched this.

When I used to do loft conversions, we had to have chicken wire below the new floor with rw4 fire insulation, dwarf walls had to be birdsmouthed into the rafters, which had to be upgraded to 6x2 sc16, any velux windows double up rafters either side, also the new floor had to be independent of the existing ceiling, avoiding any cracking etc, always check with your local building control, for advice etc.I enjoyed the video, I'm a carpenter by trade.

Hi Robin, Your videos and knowledge and how you explain your projects are brilliant. Very easy to follow and very informative. I have learned loads over the last year watching your channel many thanks Mark B

Your channel is a great discovery, thank you so much for taking the time to make the videos

i'll never do this but this is REALLY interesting. This is a understated channel that really should have much more subscribers ! Thanks for sharing and explaining

The best explanation! Thanks for taking the time to explain it in this way 🙏

Excellent video Robin, from a structural engineer!

Great information Robin. Thank you for sharing.

Those 'ceiling TIES' that you refer to will in actual fact be under comression rather than tension, (assuming that the rafters have been appropriately TIED togeter, for instance with the ceiling beams/joists at their junctions with the wall plate. The specifications of the nailing plates will therefore not need to be worked out by a structural engineer in order to ensure that they can resist tensile forces but rather to resist compressive forces which will tend to cause them to skew as the compressive forces squeeze the ceiling 'ties' downwards. Since the ceiling 'ties' are under compression longditudinonally they would be better referred to as being, 'braces'. An effective way of reinforcing these joints would be to fix, (preferably also glue) a block/strip of timber immediately below them so that it abutts snugly against the lower edge of the ceiling brace. This will however complicate the task of cladding the inner surface of the roof with plasterboard etc. however since these blocks would not need to be very deep, eg. 1" and that loft conversions require sheets of thick insulation to be placed between the plasterboard and rafters, (rather than merely between the rafters because a gap must be left for ventilation and a 3" x 2" or 4" x 2" rafter is not deep enough to insert enough thickness of insulation to comply with modern building regulations) there would therefore be enough thickness of insulation to allow these areas to be replaced with blocks of thinner insulation. Of course even the methodology that you reccomend will kikely be more than strong enough to support a bit of plasterboard and insulation so there should be no need for everyone to have their new loft coversions ripped out and retrofitted! Thanks all the same for all the information that your providing in these videos much of which seems to be entirely sound.

Currently have plans passed for a loft conversion for a timber framed house in a 3 bed semi lol would love to see a video on that

Hi Robin can you please continue the series on how to build a house in the UK including the foundation, beams, and truss calculation, or even information about UK regulation about building a house many thanks

Hi Robin, great video! I can tell a lot of time goes into your videos, keep up the good work. Do you have anything similar for a hipped roof? Thanks, Luke

Instant subscriber on first video.

So helpful!

Amazing videos. Very helpful! What would you do if you have to add thicker rafters? The load bearing walls top flat would get in the way of any thicker timber you had to put in?

Very informative

Such a great video. Love the visuals. Hated when you said the word Truss clips. Reminded me of that horrendous Prime Minister we had. [Shiver!!]

Brilliant

Great video thank

very good videos mate, love the effort you have made using im assuming with Sketchup.

Wonderful video. May I ask what modelling software you use?

great job Robin as I am converting my loft in the not too distant future. However my loft doesn't seem to quite follow your diagram. Firstly apart from the outside walls all the bedroom walls are studded and I have 1 massive beam running mid point at right angles, chest height and connected to the purlins. Suppose this is to stop the roof collapsing.I wasn't thinking of removing the purlins just put some uprights in and removing this beam and putting cross members at the apex. Do you think I could get away without putting in a flitch beam as I don't have space to get one in. Looking forward to your next video. Doh just seen your video about how much force a wood studded wall can take, although still don't know how much this is.

Great video Robin! Id live to know, if you were going to cut through the stud wall as you mentioned at 9:43, what would you do with the flitch beam that would be above the floor line?

Hi Robin, I've just seen your video and really enjoyed it. I use my loft for storage and would really have to focus and dedicate some proper time off work to do anything like what you have done. A real stumbling block for me is ventilation, as I wouldn't want the loft to sweat and condensate. Any advice in thar direction would be fantastic. Would it mean lots of vents?? My loft is freezing in winter and like furnace in July. Thank you, Robin.

memang tepat....peniaga dapat membeli minyak peket melebihi 1 bundle....suri rumah hanya 2 beg/kg....terutama kedai batu 2 jalan langgar alor setar

Hi, super channel you have .. very informative. Which software did you use for these please? Thanks and keep the superb work up for us !

can you make another video with one side is a wall and some rafters need to bind to wall instead of floor? what metal work needs to be used etc.

Robin, Do you have a similar video in converting a loft from A frames rather than the purlin & rafters?

Could a flitch beam have suitable strength ( for the use outlined in this video) to span 6 metres if 2 steals are sandwiched between 3 timbers? Also… is it acceptable to have one end of the beam supported on top of the chimney breast ‘wings’ that stop at ‘floor’ in the loft to the side of the actual chimney that curves up to the stack? This would give more room to work with and not have to pocket out the party wall. Love your videos, so interesting how load gets passed through structures. Many thanks, Alistair

Great video, what’s the programme you used for this.

Would this work with a modern truss roof on a new build property?

Hi @RobinDeJongh what are your thoughts on using the steel Web joists so services could be run like MVHR or plumbing? Thanks.

Can the new loft floor joists be hung using steel hangers from the purlins?

No need to double supports in the stud wall to match the doubled rafters each side of the skylight?

How do you do this with a hip to hip roof? I can only seem to find guides with gable ends to put beams in etc.

Thanks Robin. Very nice and visual video. Definitely a great tool you are using to show the process. In this case, can the existing ceiling joists take the load of a larger span while you have removed the existing ceiling binders? That should be a critical stage of the construction, maybe limiting the load until the installation of the new floor joists.

Question, if I have diagonal truss members?

Hi Robin, how close can a steel sit next to a chimney breast if on a steel plate? thanks

My loft is almost identical apart from a pair of A frame type beams - about 1/3 and 2/3 along the loft space, mid height (so really impede movement unless you're good at limbo🤣) sitting under each opposing purlin and attached to the adjacent rafter. Would this conversion method allow these to be removed since there will no longer be any purlins?

Do you have the head height to make it a habitable space?

How do you run waste pipes/services perpendicular to the floor joists? Do you not need to drill a very large hole through the joists compromising their integrity?

Do u have information on how to build a dormer on each side?

The "stud wall" is a supporting wall as it and the new beam are replacing the purlin. There are lots of options with the beam. I did one with four 225x50 timbers. Needed 3 plus one to cover joins. Where possible best to add a dormer to create more headroom in most lofts rather than velux.

The beam you add after 0.50 seconds, could that be put in place using strong joist hangers bolted to the concrete wall? Instead of resting on a wall or in a pocket, thanks

just been looking in my eaves some sod has left the purlin in after building the stud wall off the flitch beam, that being said I have a dormer so maybe it's different I don't know but I am wanting to knock down the stud wall in two places and ideally support them with maybe an arch on either side of the load bearing wall in the middle of the eaves to make some eaves cupboards pretty specific I know but any hope of a video?

Could please show how is posible to convert similar roof but with perpendicular truss (not sure how its named properly) and then need drop ceiling for 30cm down, as need win space to have at least 2m headroom. Thanks

Probably the best described and illustrated video that I see on KZfaq. Very well Done! Only my question where can I find flinch beam? If I type in google nothing to come up that you described.

What app are you using? Thanks

Hi Robin, very useful video thanks. I have a near identical roof space to this, have put new c16 floor joists between the existing ceiling joists, slightly floating above the ceiling as per your drawing. The total span is approx. 4m, with a load bearing wall about midway, so approx 2m spans between supports. I have used your loft floor calculator which suggests deflection will be okay but in practice there does appear to be a little deflection still. Its not too bad but if I can remedy it, I probably should before I cover it up with boards (or perhaps the boards will stiffen them?). I'm thinking perhaps screwing or bolting some flat 3mm steel bar along the sides of the joists to reduce deflection in the timber? Is that something people do or is there a better idea?

Great video thank you! Quick question- if you have a solid masonry house with no cavity. How would the filtch beam be supported as a pocket wont be able to be opened? Really enjoy the informative videos

Liked and Subscribed

Hi Robin, great video, one question, if I keep the purlin as a feature, do I still need the collar ties as height is an issue in my planned loft conversion, cheers

Hi Robin, great video! As you can see from my name I am working in my attic currently and it is fully boarded and seems strong, however it looks as though the boards have been just screwed into the existing roof joists without any additional beams/supports. Is this not suitable for any real load bearing? We also have quite a few things stored in the attic. What problems could I run into if I continue using the attic with no additional supports?

Why is it okay for the flitch beam to sit on the ceiling joists? @1:58

Hi, great video ! Where do you get the bolts with toothed thingy (collar ties) from (8m25-35s in video)? Thanks.

Hi Robin love these videos but can you do a similar one for a hip roof loft which has no gable walls..assume a detached house..thanks

Dear sir I have been watching the video that you have in KZfaq Iam thinking to convert a loft into living area about 12m in length 2.2m in hight is it possible to do it and for the budget will be expensive the plan drawing and convertion Thanks

How do I remove king pin in middle of room holding up ridge?

Hi Robin I'm moving to a timber framed house, would i be able to use the loft space as a storage room. Thanks G

Can the same be done but with wall joist hangers instead of going into the block work?

How would the supports sit in a fully pitched detached loft where there isn't a gable etc? Every video I have seen deals with terraced or semi detached or converted to gable. I have a detached bungalow that is pitched at both ends and would prefer to convert without changing the angles of the roof.

What would it cost up north here if I pay someone to do that?

Does the flitch beam have to run end to end, 1 piece or can you use multiple pieces, so easy to go thru loft hatch

In my (1965) bungalow I have 3 evenly spaced braces that span between my purlins that sit about chest height. The Purlins have braces onto the walls which I'll not touch, but If I brace each of the rafters with the same sort of ceiling ties as shown here could i just remove the original braces between the purlins? They are just in the way & I'm always banging my head when I go into the loft.

Can you really use truss clips upside down and use to pick up ceiling joists? I suppose they are okay as not really doing much as flinch beam?

Maybe I'm being daft, but at the end of the video you say the next video shows how to install a staircase, but it doesn't. I've looked at other videos listed on your channel but I can't find any reference to a stair installation. Help! Great channel BTW...

Is there an equivalent video if you have a truss type roof? My builder is telling me it's likely the whole roof will need to come off and be redone in order to have a loft conversion.

Hello, I've just discovered your channel having found a bungalow that I am considering buying - for full renovation including a loft conversion. The roof timbers, unfortunately, have the diagonals and I feel the roof needs a steeper pitch to maximise the floor area available, approx 7.8m x 11m. It has gable ends so I'd like to think I'd have 4.4m x 11m to construct 2 bedrooms, a bathroom and landing space. So, I'm looking at a new roof. My question is: Am I insane?!

wish it was just this easy.. the mess of gravity water tank, cottsway standards of disrepair and wiring ect are causing me all sorts of issues with my loft conversion

Hi Robin . Love all your well explained videos. Is there a software available so I can see a floor plan in a 3d effect please ?

How would a dormer be put in using this example of roof construction?

What if I do have the diagonal truss members though 😅

What if you don't have those masonry gable walls? (most houses in America will not have that, they will be regular wood framed walls)

Why does my roofspace seem so much more complicated? 🤔 In addition to vertical beams I have a lot of horizontal beams spanning from one opposite side to the other about waist high.

Great video but I think the height of 2.2m is wrong because the finished floor height will be say 2.1 and then it is only over a 20cm span. Move 30cm to the right and you are down another 45cm already. Perhaps I am wrong but as someone who lives in a 'room in roof' house don't underestimate just how quickly the roof slopes!

Cowboy builders or corner cutting builders beware, KZfaq is here to check on you.

Can flitch beams be constructed in situ? So no hole in gable wall needed? Also how is it fixed to the timber kit at the gables in a kit built house?

Do you actually have to have a structural engineer or is there a way of doing this without one? I assumed lofts/dormers were all permitted development?

I would rather cut an angle on the top plate for the ashlar wall and double it up not fanny about with small wedges

LIKE👍👍👍👍👍💥💯💥💯💥🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩

No idea what a padstone or a pocket is. Bye, I'll try another video.

As much as this looks diy having done this. It's not for the faint hearted

Its awfull that you need a structural engineer even though hes just going to look at joist span table... yet you can build a whole house no structural engineer.... WTF 🤣😂

Hi how much do you charge for design / calculations? Im planning on converting my loft, can I get your email?

reported video thumbnail