Thank you, glad to hear! Very appreciated!

Thank you, very appreciated!!

Thank you, very appreciated!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you! Thanks for watching!

Very kind, thank you for watching!

Very kind of you to say so, thanks for watching!

Glad you think so!

Thanks for watching!

lol waste of time. transition will neer happen.

Glad you think so! Thanks for watching!

Thank you!

Thank you! It is difficult to say without seeing the system, but I’ll try! It depends what you’re incoming flow rate is already, an unvented cylinder should have a combi valve on the incoming water main to reduce to 3 bar. In terms of flow rate you need at least 25litres a minute on your mains supply for an unvented cylinder. If you don’t have that, it will mean your system can’t handle multiple showers and you’d be better off with a combi boiler. You can measure flow rate by timing filling a bucket that you know the capacity of. If your incoming main has a low flow rate you could look at installing an accumulator or upgrading your water main size, ideally you want 25mm mdpe coming in. Your combi valve needs servicing annually too and it could be blocked up with limescale on the filter, so worth cleaning that out if you haven’t recently. It could also be the way the showers have been supplied, if they are both supplied on the same branch in 15mm, you probably won’t get the flow you need.

Very kind of you, thank you!

Thank you! I did do some research back when I installed it and a couple of places said 50oC was enough to kill legionella over a few hours. But looking again perhaps i should turn it up to 60oC

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759The legionella risk is overstated in domestic properties, especially if you are turning your stock over. Within that, the largest risk (within the low risk domestic environment) is the multiple bathroom house with say 3 or 4 bathrooms and two occupants for much of the year. Then the risk is in dormant shower heads and the like - visitors coming to stay and using a dormant shower - if there is a legionella risk this is multiplied by aerosol droplets from the shower head. As in all things the elderly are more at risk than young people if exposed to the pathogen. So, in sum, domestic properties are low risk (try and find a recorded case that is not a care facility) A legionella hygiene cycle of once a week for domestic properties is good enough and some would argue is overkill. I do it once a week when my missus is going to have a long soak in the bath.😉

Thank you! They are just 1/4" thread back entry gauges, I got mine off BES. I dont have a product code, but these look similar on BES website - Part Number: 21923 Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

I think a filling loop usually has a double check valve stopping back flow, so probably not. Draining down the system to change an expansion vessel would be sensible. Thanks for watching!

Yeah using the nest hot water for an extra zone saves money and our bedrooms are spread over two floors, so not really a good place to put the thermostat anyway. 50l/m is a really good incoming supply, i think it will make a big difference on your showers, as long as the showers can handle good flow rates. It is expensive, so comes down to how much value you put on flow rates in the showers when running both together. Thanks for watching!

Thank you, very appreciated! Thanks for watching!

Thank you!! I hadn’t planned on it, our taps are all mixers and the showers have cartridges in them. I thought a tempering valve was usually for sinks in public toilets. Thanks for watching!

Yes, you have a combi valve that reduces to 3 bar, off that comes hot and cold supply. Difficult to see in the video, but you can see it in the thumbnail back right between the two pressure gauges. Thanks for watching!

Thank you, and thanks for watching! Without seeing it and a lot more information, it is very difficult to say. If you have a combi boiler, you’ll need to get a plumber in. If you have a cylinder and the water is just coming out cold, it is probably a broken 2 port valve, but could be any number of other issues too. Sorry i can’t help more!

Good luck with the renovation! First thing to check is your incoming water flow rate, as a cylinder needs at least 25 litres a minute. If you get a bucket you know the capacity of, fill it and time it, you can work out litres a minute. If you have less than 25, you’ll need to consider a new supply if it is old and 15mm, or if the road has low flow rates, you need an accumulator and pump. I don’t think a cylinder will cost significantly more to heat a house and heat hot water, you don’t lose a lot from the storage. Any reason why they said a cylinder will cost more to run? Check the max output flow rates on the boilers you’re looking at, and compare to the showers you plan to fit. I expect they would be enough though and you’ll want to go with the cylinder. Thanks for watching!

@TheDiligentDIYer1759 thanks for your reply, if you have central heating on for a few hours morning and evening does this always heat the water in the cylinder? I'll check what you have suggested regarding flow rate and see what works best for us. thanks again

No you have valves controlled by your central heating controller, so you can have heat to the cylinder, or radiators, or both

That’s very interesting to know and makes sense, thanks for sharing!

Thank you, I think it sounds like you need a new control unit. My guess is the controller is shutting off everything because the cylinder stat has clicked off. You can probably get a new one cheap second hand. The one controlling my hot water was actually a new open box one off Facebook marketplace. Although if this has always been a problem, it might just be wired up incorrectly. You could try and rewire it yourself, but this is quite complicated if you haven’t done it before and I’m not sure what sign off requirements there are. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Fortunately a friend holds a G3 qualification, so didn’t need to worry. I think you can do the course yourself though, I did look at it and it was fairly inexpensive, so could be an option for a big DIY install. Thanks for watching!

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 how did you register it with building control?

My friend who has the qualification helped install it, so was able to register it with building control.

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 The G3 qualification alone does not allow you to register an unvented cylinder in excess of 15 litres. You need to be a member of an approved contractor scheme or gain compliance directly through local building control. How did you register it with building control?

Depends on the complexity of the system and your skill set really

I agree with DIY Guy. By far the most difficult aspect of installing a central heating system is lifting floorboards (especially if it’s nailed down chipboard panels) to put your runs in. It is a great exercise for someone who wants to bring their skills on quickly. As a project here are things to consider. 1. The most important step is system design, are you going to go system and cylinder, or combi. The next key part of the design is calculating the total heat loss of the property (good software apps for that like Heat Punk. Next sizing the emitters to meet the heat loss of the rooms (which in total should match property heat loss) and to do this you need to decide what flow temperature you are striving for at your design outside temperature (normally -2 or -3C). 2. Next selecting a boiler to meet your design requirements (heat loss from the property + hot water) and a cylinder and deciding on location of boiler, cylinder and emitters). An important feature is control strategy and weather compensation is by far the simplest (and best) - it is particularly suitable for lower temperature systems. 3. Next designing or selecting pipe sizes and where you are going to run them to minimise the runs, normally 22 or 28mm primaries. You may wish to consider using manifolds on each floor for distributing flow and returns to each rad with a home run for each rad. Best to use 15mm on these to future proof the property. 4. Run the pipes - it’s the easier and more enjoyable bit.

It depends on the boiler and the type of controls you have really, sorry it’s difficult to help without seeing it! Best to post some pictures on a forum and ask people or get a plumber round. Thanks for watching!!

I think it’s personal preference really and doesn’t make too much difference, but generally plumbers put them on the flow. Thanks for watching!

I have thought about it, but I like seeing the copper haha

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 agree 😍😍😂😂

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759Part L regulations demand lagging - personally if it is in the heated envelope of the building I think the regulation is nonsense.

Thank you John! The HW expansion vessel was supplied in a kit with the cylinder so I never actually questioned the size, but I expect you’re right and it is on the high end of acceptable. Thanks for watching!

Hi, I think you may have misunderstood me, the EV on the cylinder is undersized, not on the high side. Correct size would be 24l according to sizing charts, however it is borderline since 24l is sized for 210-250l cylinder. Interestingly I have inherited a system which has been installed using an 18l EV on a 250l cylinder. On the same system the installer has a 24l EV on the radiator circuit, effectively the wrong way round. I am going to renew them both with 24l EV’s. Great vid by the way, of course I zoomed in on it because whole layout very similar to what has been put in here. I’m retired now but must commend the quality of your installation, it did rather remind me of one or two of mine, a very neat and well thought out job, well done! I like your gauges pre-and-post Pressure reduction valve. When I do my remedial, inspired by you I’m going to fit one pre valve like you but the second one will be a combined gauge/thermometer which will go on the DHW take-off. It is good to have a one look visual check on what is going on. Best wishes John.

Yes sorry, I meant on the lower end rather than higher. Very kind of you to say so, thank you! Thanks for watching! Good luck with your upgrades!

👍

Very difficult to say without seeing it, best to get the installer back. Thanks for watching!

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 thanks. If they fitted it only 5 months ago they shouldn’t charge to fix it?

Depends on the issue really, if you’ve got hot water everywhere else, then there’s something wrong with the shower, probably the cartridge. If you’ve got no hot water anywhere, then it’s probably the cylinder

Hi, sorry I don’t have a plan drawn out for it, it was all in my head and scribbled on the wall. The layout is pretty standard and just adjusted for your exact set up on where the pipes leave the cupboard. If you just ask for isolators on everything and say you want an S plan plus system, a decent plumber will produce something similar. The tee at 13 31 is just a hot water supply to my loft conversion, as it didn’t make sense to run it down to the floor first and it has an isolator above anyway. Thanks for watching!

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 Sir, very much appreciated for your response and explanation, I will try to send you an email private and confidential as soon as possible with the new year. Enjoy your family time and the festivities among. Happy New Year

Thanks, you too! Happy new year!

You can usually hear where it is coming from. In my experience it’s probably a PRV that is stuck open, if you run it full for a short period they usually sort themselves out. Thanks for watching!

the cause is excessive temperature and/or pressure

Using a drain off and hose. Thanks for watching!

My system uses a gas heat only boiler, but you can have an unvented cylinder heated by electricity only, the system design would be very different though. Thanks for watching!

210 litres slimline tank. I only have the timer on for 60 minutes each day, but I expect it is quicker than that and the thermostat just clicks off. My boiler is also only set to 55oC, so that will affect the speed of heating.

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 And for how long does the hot water last in the showers?

That does 3 medium length showers

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 Ok, I want to upgrade the capacity of my vented cylinder. I was thinking 150l is enough, I have time to wait for water to heat back up too! Thanks very much! Your up 1 subscriber

Thank you! Worth going as big as you can, have a look at slimline or horizontal cylinders are good if you can put it in the loft

You’re absolutely right, my mistake

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 No problem at all , have a great weekend.

Hahaha thanks Alex. Fortunately I do I have building regs sign off from a plumber who helped me install it. Thanks for watching!

It’s just as likely any other fitting would fail and cause a leak

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 I prefer thumb screw air vent / air vent cap , cheap but best .

There is more polite way you could have phrased that…

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759To be honest, the internal construction of the expansion tank is wholly irrelevant. The only serviceable part is the Schraeder valve as long as you use the red on the heating and the white on DHW (and read the manufacturers instructions) you are good to go. When did a plumber actually repair anything anyway - they just replace parts.😉

Harsh

Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to give feedback. The edits are mostly me cutting out short pauses thinking it flows better, but perhaps it is distracting and actually makes it less watchable.

@@TheDiligentDIYer1759I think there is an autocue app for the iPad - which may help you to keep on track and avoid ‘thinking pauses’😉 Personally I think you did fine and the edits do not bother me - good content is all that matters.