I think a big step into diversification would be teaching people sewing and pattern making in school again. Because most people lack the skill to make their own clothes these brand end up having power in dictating what is trending and what is considered good or bad fashion/ quality etc. when you can make your own garment you can get so creative and the pride you feel when you wear something of your own creation is unmatched. It would also help with overconsumption because understanding how much work goes into making something alone, can stop you from buying unnecessary stuff

Was really fun speaking with you and great to see how the video turned out!

Im at a point where I want to create my own clothes honestly. Luxury brands had their moment for me but those prices are ridiculous and especially for very simple things like a hanging belt.

As an artist trying to break into the fashion industry no amount of gratitude can be expressed to this new side of the fashion KZfaq community.

I wish there were more open communities for most hobbies, fashion, art, architecture and the like filled with actual real people, even if i do eventually find some wild innovative thing there has never seemed like a place to discuss it without gatekeepers/elitists by all means if someone is invested they will eventually find what they needed to see. it just feels empty once you get there

When I discovered high fashion I was amazed by this whole new world but the only setback was the price, so I started sewing.

I believe clothes need to end ... so we can all be nude true selves

Thank u for calling me an expert I’m going to add that to my resume real quick 🏃🏼‍♂️

We did move on, in 2010 independent designers started doing there own brands to create there own fashion movement which ended up being called streetwear then the big brands adopted and copied it using imposters like Virgil to make look like they weren’t stealing it and the people supported them instead of the indie brands and designers. They made your Virgil bed now lay in it

Hell I think the only thing in fashion that is 100% accurate is color theory and tailoring each item to the persons exact size or just making certain parts of features better.

I couldn't relate more with the "average online fashion enthusiast" 😭 looooove the video. So good

I’ve already mentally moved on. Met gala antics? Tuned it out. I don’t care what Rocky is wearing any more. LV, Gucci, Balenciaga putting on ever more grandiose shows? The bigger they get, the less I care. The shock tactics are worn out. Influencers are less influential. I’m listing as much as I can from my wardrobe, it’s enough stuff. Time for a new hobby, like foraging in the woods or something 😂

Recently I have found myself questioning my interest in fashion mainly because of the community and people in it and with the advent of TikTok so many new people have gotten into it in the mainstream sense but what is strange is that even though they've only just gotten into it, it feels like they just have such inflated egos about it. It is as if they know everything now cause they watched a couple of tiktoks and bombard their knowledge of what is right and wrong e.g. what to must wear. Art should enrich your life, not become it.

Yay you’re back…as an Irishman I love that we have someone like you covering these topics that isn’t some D4 based Nepobaby. I really hope you keep this up

A few weeks ago i was shopping with a friend and we saw a vintage dior dress(or a similar brand) for 60€ or so. The piece looked very modest, you couldnt tell who made it, and my friend said, whats the point of expending that much if nobody can tell youre wearing dior? (or whatever the brand was). For a moment i dint know how to answer, then i said, cause your paying quality. Looking back to it, the fact that my friends instant thought was, whats the point if nobody nows what im wearing, if i cant display the price tag of this garment through a name, makes me understand the direction fashion has taken for the past years. (Btw shes not really into fashion, just likes to dress “trendy?” Idk). And then the fact that it took me a second to make the relation of designer=quality in my head, makes me think how the image of designer clothing has changed. Just wanted to share a thought😺. Sorry for the bad english.

What if a company had a catalog of patterns (designs) to choose from that people could custom order to their size, fabric and color? If there were also brick and mortar shops in some cities it could be a place for brand enthusiasts to gather?....and if manufacturing was done on site it could become a place for people to actually _connect_ with the people who make their clothes.

The only thing I didn’t agree with is that luxury fashion should be cheaper. While at first glance paying $1000 for something may seem crazy. When you start totaling up the hours of labor it takes to create something it makes sense. I’m not sure if big brands use ethical factories. And if they don’t that price is ridiculous. But I’m working on my first collection currently. One gown I’m making I’ve already spent fifty eight hours on. It’s still not done. If I were to charge $15.50 USD an hour for labor (minimum wage in my state) that’s $899. Not including fabric costs or adding any cost to make money in the end. And fabric is extremely expensive. Of course if it’s $4000 for a t-shirt…. Yeah that makes no sense. Always enjoy your videos! Love that you and Understitch did a collaboration

I think the rise of pandabuy and other fake clothing is making fashion grow again there’s more young people getting into fashion now because of the easy access to higher fashion clothing for cheap

Unfortunately what you're describing is just a problem endemic to literally every industry ever under an economic structure concerned exclusively with maximizing private profit. Fashion is never really going to become as democratized, affordable, and crucially non-predatory (doesn't aim to make you feel insecure and coerces you to buy all the latest trends) as you would hope for it to be as long as it's treated as a for-profit private commodity '/ luxury goods business. The economic incentives will always be to raise prices as much as possible, artificially limit supplies to maximize profits, constantly introduce and market new trends as well as make clothes that don't last very long to keep you buying new over and over again, and also to just make you feel insecure or not complete without purchasing said clothes. Fashion is only a microcosm of every other industry in this way that prioritizes private profits over what might be best for the general public.

I think this channel can work as a sounding board. I would like to hear about your opinion about recent collections and stuff.

A video on the specifications/details that make a garment high quality would be great, imo

I stopped following fashion over a decade ago in favor of personal style. I find the fashion industry to be staid and clinging to a stale “glamour” that stopped being chic over forty years ago. Fashion is very personal, and I think we’re experiencing a self expression revolution. When I used to see people at fashion week I was inspired, now I cringe. Disconnected people in expensive costumes. Very few have it right. If Vogue stands at the center of fashion in your mind you’re already a faux pas too far gone lol we need something like punk that’ll have people sifting thru the streets in carefully sourced and or handmade frocks that explicitly express soul.

The youtuber Andrewism has a great video on a “Library Economy” I feel like this in a partial or complete implementation in the fashion world would solve much of the issues presented in this video.

This video is is a summary that speaks to my longing sentiments about the fashion industry. Many thanks! Keep up with the good content! ❤❤

I do not comment on videos mostly, but going through your videos is so refreshing and make me need to comment somehow lol. Since a lot of bigger fashion channels they really just don't do a lot of critical thinking on other lenses(etc. economically, sociologically) rather just "Art History" blah blah blah. So yeah I really like your stuffs. While I went through all your videos, I noticed some of the newer videos does not have good views compare to other videos, I hope that don't stop your enthusiasm and motivation to make videos. Really looking forward to your new perspective, research, or opinions. Well that's all I guess.

youre videos are great man, insightful takes

Thanks for your videos. Your content is very novel and you're easy on the eyes.

The thing about making fashion cheaper is that you have to cut down either quality or labor or both, most people buy their clothes at Zara or HM. You could say they can go to thrift shops, but most people want new clothes and going to a big store is just easier, and you could probably find what you are looking for faster. I think the future of people ho are into fashion is making their own clothes, that's the best way to express your self the main barrier is making this craft more accessible It's so hard to learn these things because of a lack of accessibility. I live in a big city in France and outside Paris affordable sewing classes do not exist, or I am not aware that they do, again like you said in the video it's a lack of accessible communication. Any way, like the fashion road man said back where he grew up, all the clothes people wear comes from a local designer it's tailor-made. And I love that I wish this was the case everywhere. I'm going to stop righting or else this would go on forever. Sorry for any one reading if this was all over the place. Thank you for taking the time to read that, please tell me what you think!

Great video as always, really thoughtful too

In Italy for example we bought at sample sales , some were only for employes , some for everybody, a third of the price for items. Good quality items you can wear for 10 years in a row and they are still looking gut.

Hi, I am from Argentina, the average monthly salary here is 400 USD, and 40% of the population is below the poverty line (more than 50% if you consider young people). It's sad, and I don't see the country as an anomaly. There will likely be more countries like this in the future. Countries in which the people don't get to think too much about what they wear, they are much worried about not starving. Worrying about fashion is a privilege now, and it'll be more and more rare in the future, let alone "high" expensive things. I'm not certain when fast fashion will stop being the norm in this conditions. Sorry for the depressing post :)

Amazing vid as always. Apart from Apoc, any other recs for independent fashion retailers and/or good resources to find sample sales (I live in London)? I think I really need yo get out of the bubble, where I fix the same pair of Uniqlo jeans 3 times in 7 years & only buy weird archival pieces that Im too scared to wear.

Luxury prices are insane for the kind of boring designs they put out. Even if the designs were exciting and the quality was top notch, the prices are still exorbitant. I had the idea that luxury = quality and I've realized (from a lot of your videos) that this isn't always true. Buying clothing for design, quality and the feelings you have attached to it should be pushed instead of making it seem like trends and luxury fashion houses are all that matter. Getting into fashion is intimidating because of the prices and pretentiousness of the industry as a whole and also because the conversations surrounding it online are generally just convincing you to think a product is important and buy it. I'm still trying to understand my ideas on opinions on fashion and how I should approach things and your videos help alot, so thank you and keep doing what you do!!

I love this, you’re saying everything most are thinking and needing to happen also telling people to explore outside of the “norms” and brands that consider you a fashion person.

Got a piece from that dior collection ❤

just 2 weeks ago it was antwerps designer dasys where all antwerp designers do a 2 week stock sale with price starting at like 5 euros and they all also sell fabrics. its the best way to get walter raf dries stephan or just any antwerp designer brand for cheap, tourist visit from all over the world but it still seems criminally unkown

People dont even know what "good quality" is, you have to try and feel a lot of garments at higher price points to know that there is some good quality out there. Working at Bogner Fashion House I was there when we changed producers in India and had to use low quality leather with inferior colouring technique because of profits. We had to lie to our customers that we still use the same leather and treat them like dumb people, even though they noticed that the colour was quickly gone from the leather after some uses. Our leather department has had gone bankrupt 2 years after the changes and I was glad it happened! And I always buy designer stuff when it is on 50-60% sale, which can take a while but the pieces I want almost always go into sale after a few weeks if you look right. Casablanca Paris is kind of my favourite aesthetic right now, so colourful, vibrant and looks like fun. Love their pieces.

The only reason that fashion exists is to provide a constant need to buy more stuff. I hope in the future this will evolve into individual style on demand w ai designer and fabric printing

Social media destroyed a lot of more specialized online communities. The stupid effect of having everything in one place is you can't follow everything, so you just end up in your own little bubble of whatever you follow. And even if you stay on a very specific subject, you have no idea if what you follow are actually good sources. Especially with politics (and conspiracy theories) you see tons of people that are presented (and belive in) a very specific world view that they actually created themselves. Social media also put the focus on the individual (and later clickbaity companies) instead of the community. Out in the real world, it's nice to have some public space you can share and play basketball, soccer, skate around or whatever, but if you wanna be a tennis pro, you go where you can practice undisturbed for 5 hours a day. I think there's is a shift towards people wanting more specialized communities, but I don't know any good platforms for it. There's great Discord communities and Discord is great for what it is, but it also sucks because it's like trying to have a serious conversation in a party of 200 people (with loud music and flashing lights lol). I'd love to see something that had a lot of social medias functionality, but removed all focus from the individual.

Really great video, as a junior In highschool interested in fashion and college around the corner all the negatives of fashion industry currently, as some discussed in the video, really deter me from persuing it. Luckily all the the things u and blokes discussed are so true and it’s a source of motivation on how to improve the industry all around. The change doesn’t start top to bottom but from bottom to top.

"predatory" with AW face comes up... CHOKED SKSJKSKSKSKSK

That "Hi" at the beginning of the video was oddly calming. Fashion ASMR content when?

Where are the back ground vids taken from? Was a really nice vid

Does anyone know a good place to get Thai fisherman pants? I've only found some ones on Amazon/Etsy that have questionable reviews. The style is really cool, but all the pieces I've found say they break down pretty quickly

19:26 this is it. that’s the next wave. if you’re watching this vid you prob have the means to get a sewing machine go thrifting and get started. this video is exactly what i’m on and i’m so glad there are likeminded people out there like me, y’all keep me going

The only page/medium that comes to my mind is show studio where conversations are happening but besides that, it seems harder to find a space where actual conversation is happening

Want to hear from you about ethics in the fashion industry. How the fashion industry needs to change for the better in regards to ethical treatment of humans and animals, all along the fashion industry chain…. And any small designers who care and practice what they preach instead of greenwashing.

Advice: Cool to see you theorizing the fashion doomer talking points, BUT here are some solutions for content, Featuring unknown brands, going to their runway shows, showing off their clothing, and interviewing their designers, going to unique stores, finding interesting fashion collectors and personalities. Being an art critic could be a path you go down, but I am hoping for nuance, clearer and more elegant thoughts and bigger ideas! the interviews where a great addition to start, but more research would be greatly appreciated. And I'm mentioning this as I would hope to see you grow in this way, I don't like really any fashion content creators and youre close to becoming legendary if you dig just a bit deeper. Hoping for the best :)

is there any programs where you can design clothes and buy them directly? I know you could use clo3d but where the fooock should I go to get the clothes I design there. I don't want to order the hoodie 30 times

I absolutely hate when people put text on the screen for half a second, so you can hardly read it. You're already talking serious stuff. Even though it interests me, it takes real energy to keep my adhd brain focused.. Why the hell are you trying to fuck up my focus with flashing text all the time!? Apart from that, I do love your videos ❤

While yes everyone does wear clothes, I don't think if the change you propose could even happen at all that it would take an extremely long time, simply because the average person does not try or care very much about their outfit or style. Though this could be a generational thing, even if prices were more accessible, it really feels like there's always going to be people who throw on any t-shirt with Walmart jeans and call it a day

:) I always enjoy listening to you

I absolutely love this video, 100% would like to see more like this In terms of having a new platform on which to enjoy fashion, I think that both Rian (on TT) and Ayo (YT: Fashion Roadman) would make platforms. Rians would be incredibly thought-provoking and detailed, with all the notes that she has on previous history of fashion, and all shows, I would love to read her brain. Well I think that FR would have a more inclusive and more expressive platform, but the problem is that all of that is so expensive that it’s basically impossible for small people like us to afford to do (though FR did start his own magazine). which realistically is why platforms like High Snobiety changed in the end, because they just need to make the money to pay the staff.and unfortunately that comes with clickbait and ads In terms of small designers, it is a trend coming up now that people are buying more into small designers, they’re bored of their big names, which is fair. But I think that cannot last forever, I think we’ll have two years of the trend, which, at the end of that we will have new big-name brands, like a mini version of what we’re having now . I would like to think we will endlessly get new small designers to enjoy, but the reality is those small designers don’t make any money. Unless they only do printed T-shirts and sell them for a crazy markup, there’s no way to make that kind of thing viable in the long-term. Yes, it’s good to champions more designers, but there’s only so much money to go around, theres only so many people willing to spend it. I think that brave New Wear made a great point when he said that people could just make their own stuff, which I would absolutely adore to see. But not everybody has that kind of creativity and it’s also quite difficult to get into because there is a high cost to starting a hobby like that. So its an ideal but even if it does happen itll probably be unfortunately niche I hope somebody comes along to disrupt it like you said throughout the whole video, but it’s hard to believe that that would happen when we as the public are poorer than ever. I mean maybe will have another rich person come in and change it like Karl of Schiap and we will just have to be along for the ride 🤷‍♂️ (wow I am cynical 😂)

Meaning of Fashion to made you look the best of what you like and get the compliments and don’t had to cost arms and legs .

whats the runway show playing in the background of the vid? :0

what mic do you use to record your videos? the quality is nice?

This is a sign from the universe to get my ass up and start recording 😅

the greatest crossover we've been waiting for

What show is in the background footage

the understich crossover we needed

My favourite item of clothing is my bespoke fish scale tailored waist coat. The fish came from a dumpster down at the docks in Saint Christians Bay of Figs. The stench when I wear it is unfathomable. I've seen flowers wilt. It is an expression of recycling and reusing waste. Some say this coat should never have been made but it makes me feel invincible. I have to wear googles and a scuba mask when I wear it or I'll vomit. For me using animal excrement and food waste is a direction I'd like to see the fashion industry grow towards. After all, Bernaut Arnault was the son of a fisherman and carried fish around with him everywhere when he was a child.

why wouldn’t you put the link in the description to the website tho

10:24 anyone have a link for this website ?

New camera POG

Got a question to yall that me and my friend were arguing abt. Technically applies to all art but we can address fashion specifically. Is fashion completely subjective? Or is there an objective approach to why some fashion is objectively stronger/better than others?

could someone tell me the name of this runway 8:52 ?

charlie constantinou is going crazy, can't wait what the future brings

you really do have to sort through so much to find any good commentary on the current state of fashion... on one hand it's incredible the amount of articles and online resources (like this channel) are on the internet but i feel like many are discouraged

whats the runaway footage

Love your videos :)

Walking the streets in Ukrainian cities somewhat underlines points made in this video. Obviously heritage brands do exist in Ukraine but on a lower scale. Much of the best jewelry and fashion that I wear I got from independent places in Ukraine. Do mind that export prices can be quite extreme, for example Kochut will sell their jewelry at 3x times the price to customers abroad than at home in Uzhgorod. I'm sure there are more countries that do a similarly good job, Ukraine is merely my go to country

20:44 Bernard has those K.K. Slider eyebrows

I don't think it's about "luxury", it's about "exclusivity". Hype Jordans aren't (real) luxury. There's tons of small brands now that aren't luxury, but they're limited and make people feel part of a small exclusive club. Exactly the same the luxury brands want you to feel. This also made me think, it's funny fashion can make you stand out and fit in at the same time. Nothing special about wearing some New Balance or whatever. You'll fit perfectly in. But if it's some limited collab, you're suddenly also part of the exclusive club at the same time.

You cannot destroy the system using the systems tools. I think building your own communities is the only option rather than looking towards these huge legacy brands being more inclusive, which they tried to be with difussion lines, but as you've said aren't all that good. For those who cannot partake, it isn't meant for you. At least not at this moment. I think most of this video is feeding into nostalgia/"TBT" & that world just doesn't exist anymore. I think you're important in this space! As I've said once before, I agree with almost nothing you say in most your videos & yet your voice is super important to have within our community. I appreciate the time & care you take to share your opinion within these videos. Again, I think your issue isn't a clothing issue & not even a fashion industry issue, I think you're just anti-capitalism, which is mostly an idealistic view of the world, but not a realistic one. I'd love to have an in-depth convo with you someday! With love, Jovian

Literally checked your page this morning to see if you dropped🙏

I'm at fashion student in chicago and I honestly feel like I have to decide on whether I will eventually have to go to New York or the other fashion capitals just to seek work bc in chicago and from where I am from originally, Maryland, there is no "fashion scene" so there is pressure to feel like I'm not in the right place and I won't have any kind of security in having opportunities or an audience. But, I also know that this could be also another opportunity for me to be more subject to opportunities in chicago bc it isn't overwhelmed with fashion and artists bc of the fixation and over saturation happening in New York. its challenging though bc my main goal is to be an independent designer that is based in wherever I want not just a fashion capital, bringing it to ostracized areas, and be my own boss independent of big fashion. I also feel like these changes could bring about a break in normalized exploitative work environments that new designers have to suffer through.

I think this video brushes a lot of broad strokes. There are plenty of high quality actual luxury brands outside of the conglomerates that does real luxury such as Armani (who I work for), Cuchinelli, Bally, Zegna, Ferragamo etc etc that are just no as loud and all over socials dominated by the conglomerates. If I want good quality premium brands there are niche ones like Sefr, Hereu, and a million others on ssense that aren’t priced beyond their quality. Everything exists you just need to know where to look

big fan of Bliss Foster's stuff right now

I'm surprised that barely anyone talks about Edward Enninful exit from British Vogue. Apparently he was gunning for Anna Wintour's seat as Editor in chief of US Vogue. Well, that's a dumb move. If you come for the king, you better not missed. And he missed. And so he was given some impressive title as "global advisor", but we all know it means nothing. It all played out almost like the plot in The Devil Wears Prada. Someone wanted Miranda's job, and she pulled strings behind the curtain. I believe Edward as a puppet used by Anna back in 2017 when he barely ad enough experience and credentials. But Anna hated Alexandra Shulman. And so she promoted Edward for Alexandra's job. Pretty cunning move.

I appreciate you're point and the break down of how the discussion of fashion has changed. I loathe that everything is centralized and no longer fun. You can barely have a convo about anything because there's no sense of community. And I love how you explained how fashion can change to be more accessible rather than just wishing. I'd love to see more independent stores and brands grow. I get sick of doom scrolling the same major spots that show cool brands years after they've been cool.

dude ur recommended looks just like mine

To have a new fashion news hub, there first must be people dedicated and NOT distracted/ADHD

we got the exact same yt explore page wtf

I still haven't found my own style yet tbh

great video

A great way to find a curated list of brands to research is to look at what various boutiques are stocking, or even better go to the store irl and chat with the staff! Some boutiques; canoe club, blue in green, if soho, chcm, dsm, selfedge, lmk any I’m missing!

High fashion brands use ateliers in Europe for some items, but for the most part they use the exact same factories as fast fashion brands. You can tell… the items are usually not better quality at all… Chanel has the worst ethical/sustainable rating of all of them.

okayyy

U have to take into consideration that these brands out 50plus years an more, they stood the test of time, went through world wars and still relevant today, u have to give them credit for that. And they are not to expensive, its for the RICH! not the poor or average

I find myself looking for the most ‘Unique’ pieces even though I live in Mexico but damn, the flea market has many kind of stuff I found a Margiela coat and bought it instantly (76$dlls, I checked everything and it’s a genuine piece), also a full real leather jacket from ‘Espinoza Leather’ from 2004 it’s like a biker jacket it was 5$ (custom made measurements and stuff) Also there’s a lot of second hand stores and they usually put well known brand clothing such as ‘Dickies’ or ‘Levi’s’ I learned that high quality pieces are more important that just having a tag that says a important brand

I think it’s great that we wanna support smaller brands but at the same time maaaaan do some of these indie brands wanna charge an arm and a leg. Reese cooper is a lot more established now and whatever but even then his jackets shouldn’t be 2 stacks like wth. Deffo would rather buy independent brands and buy my big name designer 2nd hand tho

There is the same struggle for contemporary art. It is very misunderstood and there is no approachable place to learn.

3:42 - " . . . extremely predatory" *edit cuts to Alexander Wang - icon energy. I live.⚡

lotta cool discords out there - been really enjoying connecting with fashion fans there

❤❤❤

Nice

❤

I make my own clothes thank god

great video, bro be reading my internet comments, they be lying to the ppl, have fun be yourself

My hypebeast comment was featured in this lmao