This should not be try it at home without supervision if you don’t know what you’re doing you can have a serious accident and burn yourself. Refrigerant is no joke and nothing to play around with. Sorry that’s the truth this is one thing you don’t want to make a mistake with.

As a tech that learned everything either out in the field or on KZfaq when I started, I distinctly remember when things finally snapped and became clear in my head when it came to refrigerant - from then on I always referred to the charge(especially the suction side) in terms of TEMPERATURE - not PRESSURE when communicating an issue to someone else or while figuring out the issue. Trained a few other guys at the first company I worked for and would always try to get them to think in the same terms (Blue gauge TEMP, Red gauge Pressure) - it makes understanding Superheat and Subcooling (and what it means in the system that much easier).

I don't do residential HVAC but in managing my own automotive HVAC I learned one thing. Well, a few but this one too. If I think the system may be under charged ALWAYS leak check the service ports BEFORE touching them with ANY tools or equipment. You will not find a leaking schrader valve with gauges attached and you will not have a definitive diagnosis if the reseating that takes place "fixes" the problem. Thank you for doing what you do here on KZfaq.

Great video I am a 54 year old maintenance tech and also do and still learning HVAC. Your videos are very informative

Going into my second summer and really am understanding these systems is becoming increasingly easier to understand. Really appreciate the video for folks like me.

New HVAC/R Tech in the game and this is the best I've seen it broken down for me. Thank you.

i literally didnt understand a single part of this video, but something about listening to a guy who knows what he's talking about with visuals is so awesome

Thanks for making this video - best one I've seen on how to properly add refrigerant to a system. Helped me to top off my boat's A/C unit. Best regards from Key West, Capt. Blackheart Charlie

Greg, you have killed it as a small business owner. Most of you guys put out alot of great stuff on HVAC technical stuff. That's awesome. I would LOVE to hear more about the actual building of the business and growing it. Thats very inspiring!!! Keep doing great things brother! Chance from Myrtle Beach SC

Well done. You gave excellent information!

You did a good job explaining why and how to properly charge a system by temperatures instead of gauges, and really sounded like you know what you are talking about and seems like you went to trade school or learned off a educated teacher (instructor).

Thank you sir, very informative and great explained

Your the man. Thank you for the knowledge

Very well explained sir.

Great explanation. Thank you

Nice.. and clear explanation.. thanks much😊

Very nice explanation, thanks for the video.

I'm just a guy who fixes his own stuff but you taught me a lot thanks

Was very useful. Thanks a lot

I took out all the freons from my unit, then I added propane. System is way colder I would say. Thanks for showing me how to do this and what tools to buy on craigslist

I am glad that you mentioned to add liquid refrigerant a little at a time, because here's what nobody mentioned is: when you add to much liquid Freon at one time, the chances are , that it will carry some of the compressor oil with it it and it will take a while to equalize again.

fantastic explanation. Do you have a video that talks specifically about subcooling?

Very good nice information thanks

This is a course with perfect airflow that’s not a high static duct work situation. This is also with a perfectly clean filter and a perfectly clean coils and the appropriate size line set. Not to mention perfectly good capacitor as well as contactor outside can also affect the refrigerator. All these need to be done before you start adding refrigerant unless you know that system and are you just checked it all.

Great video more videos im trying to make my own ac company

Very informative. I have a somewhat different situation. A friend bought an abandoned building, and will soon tear it down and build a new one. I can take whatever I want before the demolition, such as the AC and furnace components. I believe the AC has not been turned on for over five years. Is my first step to check the high and low side pressures at the compressor? If there is decent pressure at the compressor, would it make sense to try to get the AC running in the building? Or would it be better to disassemble everything and check the components individually, prior to reassembly at the garage I'm building? If there is pressure in the system, is there an easy way to capture the freon and reuse it at my new location?

This company is awesome, very great info

great information about charging, before charge i would try find leak first, open evap coil panel, look in drain pan for any trace of oil, most of the time thats where it leaks, if its is leaking, most coils have 10 year warranty, get it done when its under warranty.

The first conversation you should be having with a customer once you determine the system is low on charge, is finding and repairing the leak.

Thank you great video!!

great video thank you!

Thank you for this.

thank you very much!

Thank you...

Great videos for new techs. Wish I worked for you when I was a new guy, I think my life would’ve been a bit easier, great leadership my friend!

When I teach about gauges and pt I try to get them to use temps instead of pressure it is the best way to simplify

Would this apply to R22 although focusing on the green temp ring?

Hello , I just have a simple question. Is it ok to store r22 , r410 a in your garage during summer? And where to store it in winter ? Thanks

Thank you

I have a set of test gauges. That way I do not automatically take too much from the system. With test gauges I take minimal refrigerant from a system.

Hi, my r410a with txv unit. The suction saturation temp is about 33F and suction line temp is 48F giving 15F of superheat. But why is my liquid line saturation temp is 97 and my liquid line temp is also 97. I tried adding some refrigerant but nothing changes. This is a high velocity system air handler with a slab coil. I think my suction saturation temp is also too low. Both coils are clean and txv valve is new. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Thanks very informative but one question @start if you are talking about td or approach temperature it shouldn't be return air temp ‐32 or 35 = coil temp

What do you think of replacing txv with a piston ?

How do you treat a system with an "R410-Flo-rater" metering device (Aspen DX-treme C-Series)? Like a piston or a TXV?

Good info...thanks!

thanks

Thanks for the video! One question... Wouldn't you want to find out where the leak is? 5 lbs. is a substantial leak, I would think you would be back there soon.

The further the distance between both units dictates the amount of time for a full cycle. A system that is charged will feel beer can cold. Always use your gauges and get valve extensions with cut off. Then you can bleed most of the refrigerant back onto the system before disconnecting.

to the point!

How much do u charge per lb of freon. Let me compare to beutler and bonney.

This better be good 😄

Seems like some schools say add liquid, some vapor. I have seen both work and understand the phase change is the magic. What is your thinking in liquid over vapor?

Hi I have one of these Micro DC Air Conditioner Kit, DC 12V 450W R134A Refrigerant . how can I Add Refrigerant to it please???

Hi. While charging do I have to turn ac on?

Great video Fox !!! How would you charge up a system that does not let the compressor come on because of the Low Pressure Switch preventing the contactor to close ? ( would you use vapor first as to not to hit the compressor and fill it just enough for the compressor to come on or would you fill with liquid right away ??? ) Thank you so much for taking your time and trying to answer my question !!!

Hi dear sir:im really complicated about charging liquid to suction line,for example 2 lb liquid refrigrant to suction line dosnt damage the comppresor? As ive been thought that liquid will damage comppressor in suction line and the reason that we sgould have sh at suction line is that to prevent liquid gas return to compresor.please explain.yours sincerly :peeno

You never have to add refrigerant unless there is a leak. First find the leak, repair, then add refrigerant.

good mr fox..

please,when exactly we need to chage or add refrigerant?,,and what is the standard?

Thanks for the video. Can you tell me why you turn the 410A upsidedown? I hear you are to keep the R22 right side up. Does feeding liquid shock the compressor when you turn 410A upside down?

Can I add freon using one hose

& if the liquid line temperature (make sure the sun or your hand, or other heat source is not warming the area where your temp probe is mounted) is cooler than the outside ambient temp, then suspect a restriction up stream for that measured spot of the liquid line....i.e. a liquid line filter drier. Take a Delta-T across a liquid line filter drier, if it happens to be located up stream from the measured spot of the liquid line. If there is a temp drop of (I think) more than 3 degrees, I have been told that the liquid line filter drier is the source of the restriction, & would need to be replaced with a new one.

Hi, boss, why not use digital gauge which can give you either superheat or subcool right away, easier & faster. (One more thing, I think R-410A is a blended refrigerant, it can only be added as liquid in suction side, you'd better mention it to use a nuzzle or throttling method.)

With the system off and liquid line and suction line service valves closed. Is it ok to add liquid r410a into the high side? Thanks

You have to start this trade young and as a helper and work your way up..

I'll just add to be sure both sets of coils are clean with a new filter installed before moving forward with anything else.

What about piston charging? Subcool is for txv only.

Can you help me with following math? * AC unit on the attic, ducts insulated. * R410A, * out door temp - 93f, * low(blue) pressure/temp - 160psi/55f, * high(red) pressure/temp - 340psi/105f, * return pipe temp - 100-105f. * (out side temp) - (high(red) temp) = 12f what is less than expected 15f. * (high(red) temp) - (return pipe temp) = 0f (sometimes 5f) what is less than expected 10f. * (supply temp) - (the nearest cooling grill temp) = 7f up to 10f what is at least 9f less than expected. Note: AC documents/labels do not have any suggestion regarding subcooling (Goodman GSX130301B*) Math with 15f difference between outside temp vs (high(red) temp) and 10f difference between (high(red) temp) vs return pipe temp does not work here. I have 12f (very close) and 5 to 0f (big difference). Questions: 1. did I get it right the system needs charging to hit 115F on (high(red) temp) gauge, so there is 10f difference with return pipe temp? 2. To hit 115f on gauge I need to add 40PSI. What is approximately amount of refrigerant I need? if I buy 5 lb would it be enough or should I buy 10 lb to be safe?

Do you need to bleed the suction and liquid hose?

Hello Fox Family, a question, when adding refrigerant, how do I know my refrigerant tank is empty? By looking at the small rounded window on the manifold?

Are you adding liquid refrigerant into the suction line? You placed the tank upside down. I thought we want vapor to go into the compressor.

Is going to hvac school worth it or should i try to find some apprenticeship program?

Almost new unit in our second home. Heat works. A/C blows good, but no cool air. I think it’s needing Freon. Not sure. I’ve heard you can do it yourself. Any tips? Thanks’

This guy just got out of school you can TELL.

Never add R check for supply air return air temps. If less that 21 degree split after 20 minutes check the entering air to outdoor coil temp entering air in shade. If liquid line temp is lower on liquid line than shaded entering shaded coil temp your low on R. If to high on liquid line than O.D. entering air (shaded) temp more than 11 degrees it's slightly over charged.

You didn’t to purge the manifold and suction line

How much should a compressor replacement cost??

125 PSIG on the low side? But the data plate on my condenser says 410A PSIG LOW: 236 HIGH: 446

500 dogecoins for u .😅great video

Why add liquid refrigerant to suction line though? Is it faster? Shouldn't you be adding liquid to liquid line and vapor to suction line?

is he adding liquid to the low side?

adding refringent isn't the problem, low side of course but buying is. The main focus should be identifying the leak and then adding the Freon.

Where can I buy the fe on. I did not have the HVAC license.Thank you

410A is a blend refrigerant if 5 pounds leaked out you cant just add 5 pounds and expect it to work properly.

Very good review for techs. However homeowners should never try this as they may over charge system etc.

It's 2 am and it sounds like a water fall in my ac closet , low on freon again , non of the local ax companies can fix the leak , spent enough to replace it now , had them redo the drain also , they didn't get that right either ..guess I gotta do it myself , after spending thousands to have local professionals do it ..what a joke ..got my macs license, bought my own gauges , bought some freon , got the multimeter that does Temps and such , still don't have a scale , but at 2 am ...priceless ..fixed it in 14 minutes for now ...now where is that leak , dam Sulphur water ate the new air handler (everything is right by the bathroom door that we shower in ) is what there telling me ????

Just replace the TXV 😜

Remember, if you have to add freon, you have a leak somewhere.

why you add Refrigerant using the high pressure side? @6:37 it is dangerous

1st thing everyone thinks, my system needs charged. Unless a leak exists and system was not probably charged during install, it should not be low on gas- refrigerant, freon is a trade name for dupont r-12. I will not be watching to the end, I assume you discuss bleeding has from the high side hose after disconnect. If not every time someone connects and disconnects you lose several oz.of refrigerant. Forget the rest, call the best

Adding réfrigérant as a liquid might damage thé compressor i think

it only cost me $200 for a guy to come out for a couple hours and diagnose everything and fill the unit. just pay the guy with experience this high pressure stuff aint like fixing a sink drain.

5:30 adding in the liquid form would cause more stress to the compressor from my experience. I believe the gas form would be better (not upside down).

First of all I want to say I’ve only listened to half this video. The first half has huge gaps in no sound. Next I want to say everybody’s going about this the hard way. 410a is a blend of three separate gases. If one of these gases leaks out from the system everything that’s in The system is suspect. The best way to recharge a system is to see first of all if you can find a leak. If there is no obvious leaks the next thing you should do is to change the valve cores on the access ports. The next thing you should do is evacuate all the refrigerant that is in the system. Read the data on the nameplate data and find out how many ounces or pounds and ounces your unit takes to operate efficiently. A digital scale is needed to put the proper charge in the system with “ The bottle turned upside down so that the shut off valve is on the bottom”. The refrigerant bottle should be upside down on your Digital scale. If you have evacuated the system, you should then put The liquid in the high side first. Once the system is equalized, you may now turn on The system so that it runs. Slowly put the liquid into the suction side. If you put it in too fast, it will wash away the oil in the compressor and cause compressor failure. Once you have the measured amount call for on the nameplate data in the system, check for proper pressures on the gauges and temperatures. You are checking for the return air temperature and the supply air temperature for the inside ( approximately 20 to 30° difference). For the outside, you are checking outdoor temperature versus exhaust temperature of the fan on the condensing unit. This should take care of your cooling problem. However, this is only if you have a small leak in the system somewhere. You could still have a metering device problem or other problems with the system. As in someone else’s post, the only way you can buy this refrigerant is if you hold an EPA certification. This is something that is not normally held by the homeowner. Unfortunately, the best way to fix your problem is to call a technician. I say unfortunately because you’re going to have to bite the bullet and pay the trained individual to fix your unit. This really is not a homeowner fix.

A guy came out today to charge our system with refrigerant and he said possibly there was a stuck valve inside because he couldn't get the unit to take any refrigerant but he seems like a total f****** dork can this be true do I need to have a tech come out and look at the valve on the inside of the house

Try an average 120 degree day…

1..you get E.P.A. certified

leaks in systems means more money in my pocket dont add gas if you know its going to leak right back out TELL customer the only way to fix it is to fix it right!!!! FIX LEAK!! FIRST THEN ADD GAS

I have a friend who is a licensed mechanical engineer in hvac systems and she says the ONLY proper way to add refrigerant is to pump the system down and add new refrigerant into the vacuumed lines. Is she wrong?

I THOUGHT THIS WAS AN INSTRUCTION HOW TO FILL- ARE YOU TEACHING A CLASS?