Thanks for the thoughtful comment 😊 ! Really appreciate it. Hope you get this to work for you and get an awesome gridfinity system going 😊

yeah that would definitely be doable. I have smart home plugs on all my printers so I can remotely turn them on or off (you can even make automations for them to turn off after a print is finished based on power draw.) the you can just implement the push off script. Either at the beginning of your new print or as macro in Klipper. 😊 Let me know if you get it to work!

Definitely also an option. If you want the same thing multiple times I think there’s also a loop command

Thanks for the great feedback! Really happy to have you on the channel 😊 And welcome to the 3D printing journey! As for your comments: definitely know what you mean regarding the time-lapse. It was kinda hard to show it in a way that made sense. Especially with the long pauses in between prints... And with the music: I hear you. It's a comment I've been getting a lot... It's a delicate balance between no audible music and too loud 😃 (I'll keep in mind for next time)

@@Arne.Bornheim I found a useful video to at least help understand the issue. If it turns out that you're using premiere pro, good on you, this is basically an easy fix tutorial then. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fah4Y6V326mwcXU.html

Thanks a lot 😊 let me know if it works for you! Hope you get your sword printed soon

Thanks so much! It's definitely a doable project if you have some time on your hands and are willing to tinker

Thanks. Yeah I tried orca slicer later and have been loving it

Thank you 😊

Haha yeah it really depends on what you want. I think tinkering and really understanding everything can be rewarding and fun. But if you just wanna print it’s not perfect

Thanks! 😊

Thanks a lot! 😊

Immer gerne und danke für den Kommentar!

sounds really cool 😊 definitely let me know how it goes!

Thanks! yeah, pushing prints off with the print head can definitely lead to problems. However, with the right temperature and printed my prints come off super easily, so it's not a problem...

You can always re home the printer after the push off if you think it's going to skip some steps while pushing. It's G28 I think

I think it always homes before a print? But I think meeskees was concerned about bending something or similar

Thanks interesting. And this is better than automatic bed leveling?

No no, you'll still do the auto bed leveling after you install the spacers so it confirms the new offset on each corner. Also one thing to not is to do auto leveling each time you remove the plate because when you place it back it can move the offset by a tiny bit although it shouldn't be something for you to worry about since you won't be removing the place much thanks to your print head knocking the print off the plate@@Arne.Bornheim

@@BojanSusic-qi4qn ahhh, thanks. Definitely sounds interesting 😊!

Thanks so much ! Really appreciate your comment

Thanks so much 😊 it’s the Ender 3v3 ke. And Tool head and shroud are just stock!

Definitely a good thought! There will definitely always be limits to this method. Especially with very flat or multiple objects. I like your idea with the wipe wall. Also, you could make the gcode make multiple push offs in different locations, maybe? Since right now, I only need it for gridfinity stuff, I'm trying to keep it simple. But there are definitely ways to improve it 😊

It's definitely doable. But honestly i think this is too sketchy to be officially implemented. there's a lot of tweaking and a lot of ways it can go wrong. Definitely a great option but maybe not for everyone because things could get damaged....

Creality has the CR-30. The printer prints on a belt and once the print is done it will simply turn the belt over. This pushes the print off and makes room for the next print. Since the hotend is angled it also allows for infinite length prints (you can print an entire sword in one go)

Yeah I know of that. Really like the idea and concept but I definitely think it’s a very specialized printer

Yes 🙌 just started using orca recently and love it

Thanks! It’s a standard gridfinity grid and then some custom containers here and there 😊

Yeah definitely an option. I’ve seen both online but haven’t tried it

Honestly it wasn’t really a problem. Otherwise you could also use a brim and use that as your purge line

yeah, pellet extruder is definitely interesting. With 2,5 kilo I already got pretty far and there's also the option of 5kg spools. So I think if you go for something like that, it's not a big problem. Getting a pellet extruder to work would likely be more work (and probably stacking another house of cards on another one in terms of reliability 😃 )

I have no upgrades at all! If you're having Problems I can recommend trying out the standard Creality Slicer (I had problems with Prusa Slicer for example) other than that just standard stuff like using a high quality filament etc... Let me know if it helps!

@@Arne.Bornheim yea man I’ve always used that slicer but still have problems with like layer shifts and every other problem possible wondering if you have some configs you use In the slicer or some more things I should try Lmk man thanks alot

Yeah, as far as I know, you could just loop the same print no problem! For me, I wanted to be able to put different prints into a queue though, which is a lot more flexible 😊

Happy to hear!

Thank you 😊

Interesting with the nebula pad! I got the nebula camera since then which also was a big step forward 😊 Hope you get to implement this on your own printers !

Hey 😊 in many slicers like orca or prusa you can add a custom bed image. I honestly googled it. Found one and then added the red area in photoshop. Since the base image wasn’t mine I cant share mine sadly. Hope the process makes sense though 😊

Yes. The printer is always running a version of Klipper. you’re just installing another interface like mainsail or fluid and can install other stuff like octo everywhere. As far as I know you’re not even changing the Klipper version. Just adding the interfaces or addons. (But I’m not an expert on these things)

Thanks. I think if you really want to do this professionally there’s better ways to especially for prusas there are complete addons for an extra cylinder to push off things or thing to swap the entire build plate!

Thanks for the info on the PEI beds. I knew that one of my sheets worked better than other ones but didn’t know the material. And yeah that’s the cool thing that with a little tinkering you can make this work with most / all printers 😊

Hey! Im currently not looking to make a full tutorial but I’m sure with watching the video and downloading the free files from the description you can get it to work 😊

Definitely. Just depends on preferences. With build in Klipper you don’t have to buy extra hardware which is nice.

Thanks so much! 😊 I didn’t actually make that spoil holder myself. You can find it on thingyverse here : www.thingiverse.com/thing:5759314

My Dutch is a little bit rusty but bedankt 😊

@@Arne.Bornheim But in the background still the sound of a dutchie 🤣😂

Haha sorry I know the music was too loud. I’ve tried to fix it in my newer videos ( you should check them out)

Sorry I don’t :/ what kind of cleaning are you looking to do?

This really also depends on your cooldown time and the print bed. In my experience even the biggest prints can go of with almost no force when they’re cool enough.

I don’t have one so I can’t say for sure. You definitely have to change some values in the code because of the different bed size but generally it should work. Not sure if / how you can make a print queue on Bambu though.

Thanks so much for the feedback 😊 yeah it’s a delicate balance with the troubleshooting. Too much detail and it gets boring but it’s also kinda story of the video!

Thanks so much for the feedback! Yeah I‘mull keep the music lower in the next video which should be out tomorrow 😊

Haha we'll see. Maybe I'll get there one day 😊

What custom gcode are you missing? You can download everything necessary from the link in the description.

thanks! yeah you can also do something like this with octoprint 😊 the nice thing with my way is that you don't need any other hardware if your printer is already running clipper

Thanks for the feedback! Yeah I try to keep a balance between keeping it entertaining and sharing details. I definitely know this isn't a how-to video but a little summary at the end could be a good way to strike that balance

Thanks 🙏

The gcode will definitely work! not sure if the Se runs on Klipper and can be rooted? But if yes that should also work

Yeah that’s also possible but feels less flexible for me than this since you can add new prints at any point

@@Arne.Bornheim maybe so but making a program that does stichs print files together while clearing the prints between files would be something your average person would be excited about. Also it would work on any printer without modification or voiding warranties.

Yes octoprint has something similar. But as far as I know you need a raspi for octoprint whereas my setup runs on the printer natively

On the AnkerMake it’s difficult. You should be able to get the printer to push off the finished prints with gcode. However since the AnkerMake does not run Klipper or something like octoprint I don’t know how to do a print queue. You can manually make gcode that contains multiple prints or maybe get a gcode to loop and print the same thing multiple times. But as far as I know you can’t replicate the full process on the AnkerMake sadly. (If anybody knows how to implement the print queue please correct me 😊 )

hey! @thenhowboy also asked this, so I'm just gonna copy paste my answer 😊 I don’t have one, so I can’t say for sure. You definitely have to change some values in the code because of the different bed size but generally, it should work. Not sure if / how you can make a print queue on Bambu, though.

I don't see why the concept would not work. with my X1c I would need to leave the door open. probably make sure the print being pushed off does not hit the side. I have a theory of designing a wipe wall that is activated by moving the head to the right above the poop shoot area behind the bed. other part is setting up a print que. that you could auto start. or I would probably want to remotely start the next print. at least for a while. till I felt I know the variables that cause it to fail.

This could have many causes. For me, the right print bed definitely made a big difference. I used the one from my ankermake, but someone in the comments said what type works best in general (I think PEI, but please check in the comments). Other than that, you could also play with bed levelling and Z offset. Under normal conditions you can also use a glue stick on the print bed, but since this is something you have to do before every part it doesn't really make sense with this approach because it's not automated...

Yeah good idea. What did you have in mind? I always just checked with my camera every now and then. But something like octo everywhere (which I already have running) has support for print fail detection right?

​@@Arne.Bornheimthere are plugins for octoprint where You have fail detection built in. Also it will be nice to have some smoke detector. Long prints cause high risk, so be carefull with it.

@@Arne.BornheimI think creality have official camera that you can connect to the box, then the box will connect the printer into cloud, where they have AI print failure detection(based on camera) . I am still waiting for my camera arrive to test these feature

@Jesse-zs7yc I have the camera now 😊 but not sure about the ai failure detection? Would that be in the app?

Haha😂

😂 sorry. That was an editing error.

Thanks for the heads up. I still got caught out 🤣

Haha yeah it was pretty bad! But eventually i made it work… I guess for 12€/kg on amazon what was i expecting…. Thanks! Yeah there‘s definitely better solutions but I wanted something anyone can do with very little investment 😊

Haha sorry. That was my editing mistake

Danke fürs Feedback! Hab bei den neueren Videos drauf geachtet. Schau gerne mal rein 😉

Good 👍 idea. I actually have 0,8 mm nozzles for my Anker make laying around but never got around to using them… does it make a big difference in speed?

Ofcourse, bigger nozel = bigger layer . But it would look a bit uneven as the nozzle is bigger ​@@Arne.Bornheim

What do you mean exactly? I thought bambu handy can't even slice files? (Don't have a bambu (yet) so I don't know much about it) Also most of the process is done on the printer and not in slicer

yeah that's definitely a concern. I found on my printbed that with enough cooldown time all parts eventually come off fully. Then it was just a matter of best achieving that timing through gcode 😊

😂 I'm so sorry that was left in there 😃

Thanks for the Feedback! Totally true and fixed in My Recent Videos

Yeah definitely possible! However you'll still only be printing 8 hours and not continually. You could also get more bins on the plate with this method as well. just have to make sure to connect them with a brim or change the push off script. I just wanted to keep it simple for my testing

@@Arne.Bornheim You also have the benefit of the plastic cooling more before the next layer, to help battle some kinds of slumps, etc. I was speaking more to the idea that you can't get much done at night. If you print enough stuff to keep the printer busy over night then that isn't as much of a problem.

I understand where you're coming from. Even with this method, it's possible to put multiple things on at the same time. You just need to put them close together and have a large brim so they are connected. It was just another complexity that i tried to avoid. And if you have the right print bed and cooldown setting the print will honestly come off the bed by themselves. no matter their size...

😉 webinnerface

😂 just making sure everyone's still paying attention

Ich habe mit vielen Sachen auf einem Bett angefangen, aber dann steht es trotzdem viel still. Thema Brandgefahr muss natürlich jeder selbst wissen... Ich habe einen Smarten Rauchmelder, der bei Alarm auch sofort den Strom vom Drucker kappt. Aber na klar. Dabei sein ist am sichersten..

Anet hatte Brandprobleme, Creality hab ich noch nicht gehört. Woher kommt die Info?

@@Arne.Bornheim Das fände ich eigentlich ein interessantes Video mit dem automatisch abschalten.

@@ir0nsight280 Als ich mir die Verkabelung vom Ender 3 meines Kumpels angesehen habe ist mir das Vertrauen verloren gegangen. Verzinnte kabel und schlechte Bewegung der Kabel machen mir schon etwas Angst was mehrere Tage alleine arbeitet. Besonders wenn die Maschine schon 100h gelaufen ist.

Thanks for the feedback. Totally understand and it’s been less loud in the new videos!

Thanks for the feedback! What do you think I should be recommending?

@@Arne.Bornheim Honestly it's obviously a hard problem... At this stage, I'm probably still saying a P1P though. Sure, it's significantly more expensive, but over time the biggest cost of any 3D printer that actually gets used will be filament. My first machine was a Creality CR-6, and I have honestly not added all the money I spent on upgrades to get it to perform as advertised because I am too scared... Easily more than my X1C :/

@@givemeanaccountdamit a P1P is a great machine I personally upgraded from an Ender 3 to a P1S and I enjoy it. Nevertheless I would recommend every beginner to start with an Ender because it helps you understand the machine. If you just have a machine that works out of the box with no manual work you will never get an understanding

@@Jonasmonasonas obviously everyone is entitled to their own opinion on this issue, but I couldn’t disagree more. Again my first machine was a Creality machine that over promised and under delivered. I bought it as a tool, not a hobby, but ultimately spent 4 years modifying it and learning an incredible amount of settings and tweaks in Cura to tune and get the best I could out of it. In the end it was direct drive with an all metal hot end, and even some parts of the motion system were aftermarket. I found it frustrating and expensive because I spent at least as much time getting the printer to run as I wanted as actually printing things I bought it to make. Eventually I bought an X1C and found 2 major things: the frustration of printing is now gone as it just works, and all of the settings, tweaks and general hardware knowledge I acquired are pretty close to irrelevant. I have never heard an opinion that people should learn on a carrier Pidgeon before being allowed a mobile phone so that they can learn how the system really works. Sure, if you are into Pidgeons and love the process I’m sure you can get a lot of joy out of that hobby and the satisfaction of understanding the minutia of requirements around that system. I just feel it in no way is a right of passage and in fact, would think most people would give up part way through that experience and therefore never see how powerful a mobile phone is as a tool. No hate in the above, just trying to explain how I’ve come to my conclusion

@@Jonasmonasonasi can agree, i have heard a p1p is a great printer, but you gotta understand the machine so you can do upgrades or repairs

Why?

Yea wym