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Doug Robinson is climbing national treasure! I think I'd watch a video of him tying his shoes.

Few notes for safety: 1st before Climbing; both leader and follower should be tied in to the ends rope. Leader on the leading end and follower on the dead end. This is so both can double check knots. And the lead will not pull rope to far. It's happened to me, I pulled the rope and the follower was getting her shoes on and missed the end of the rope. I had to alpine bomb the rope down and just trust that she tied her figure 8 correct. 2nd the double quick draw anchor, with gates opposite and opposed, is super good enough only if it is attended, never use that type of anchor out of sight. 3rd if you have locking carabiners, use them. There really not that expensive. So please invest. 4th to get down watch the how not 2 repel video. This was a great video showing different ways of doing it. Always more than one way to skin a cat, and some less bloody than others. Same goes with climbing, and remember if somebody you're climbing with is doing something you feel is sketchy bring it up! Personal example; I've had somebody do the double quick draw anchor set as a top rope system, I had to literally show them if they twist the rope in the wrong way and loaded how it might pop out of one or both carabiners. I then gave them my quad and 4 screw gates as a gesture of friendship. Also means I get to buy new gear for myself ☺️. Always a great video I'm sure this will get a lot of hits! Thank you Ryan, Bobby, Doug and Mike!

"hopefully, short team wins". I gotta say, you are climbing with Doug Robinson (and vice versa), on a perfect day on perfect rock.. A win, X 100, not matter who is atop first.

9:00 you're clipping the rope end biners to your harness, you maniac! 😂

Thanks so much for this video. My girlfriend and I watched it before her first time climbing outside. She was looking for something to be ready for a mutlipitch, or even just cleaning a route, and seeing a video really helped her. Thank you!

You know the saying "Old habits die hard"? Look at the way OG Doug secured that belay device. Cheers!

I learned how to climb via this channel and Hard is Easy. THANK YOU DUDE!

This format of double filming then Editing it in sequence was really good.

This material is like most how-to books on many subjects: you only understand it perfectly if you already know how to do everything shown, in which case you're watching the video for fun and as a refresher. In my case, since I don't know what 'guide mode' is, I didn't understand those parts. But then, I've only done one multi-pitch and I never lead. But my partner introduced the concept of SimulClimbing halfway up, so I naturally I got that part of this video. If you don't know what it means, it's that there's no belayer, just 2 climbers who are passively belaying each other with their body weight and the total friction in the system. As Doug explained, the guy on the bottom gets off easy if he falls while SimulClimbing, whereas the lead climber will feel a downward pull that could cause him to fall whatever the distance he is from his protection.

I can’t believe you guys have to keep traveling all the way to Key West and back again every time you want to climb that face…. But, I guess you really rack up the air miles, which is also pretty cool. I’m also glad Bobby had a good day (for real) and didn’t wind up in the hospital… Once was enough!!

very nice video, it helps to see how others do things, for noobs in climbing like me or even for more experienced people for also see diferent ways to go

20 minutes with Doug is simply unacceptable, Buddy. We need atleast 45. He is our leader.👽

If you’re learning to climb off of KZfaq and you are upset at the quality of this free content, you have only yourself to blame. Plenty of other options out there to round out your knowledge - I hear you can even learn some from TikTok nowadays… Maybe these guys wouldn’t pass an IFMGA advanced course with every technique used here but I agree with the statement “super safe enough”. Some good tips in here, keep doing you Ryan. Thanks for putting in work on these.

Awesome video Ryan! You’ve got so much amazing content. However, you haven’t tested the gear that climbers probably trust the least! Where are the big bros?

Love the channel, but have to echo the concerns. Some complacency definitely on display here. Stay safe out there y'all!

This video should be titled...."If Doug Robinson can get away with it, why can't I?"

Don't know if someone has already said it, but one major difference between guide mode and redirecting off the Anchor. Guide mode essentially halves the force on the Anchor when the follower falls as it's only supporting their force. Redirecting needs to support the force they are loading as well as the opposing force of the belayer

Love your videos but have to ask, what is your cellphone secure system to carry it while climbing and filming. I was using mine at a crag and felt super sketchy reaching into a pocket, and having no wrist tether or anything to prevent it dropping too its doom. What do you do to keep yours safe?

Severely not okay with trusting a single bolt. Especially when there’s an easy redundant bolt right there.

Jumped out of an airplane with a guy wearing a shirt that said "Safeish" once or twice. Happy to hear you use the word in this one :)

I do think it would be cool to see an end-to-end multipitch example with no switching back and forth between two teams: 1. both climbers tie in with an 8 and double-check eachother 2. climbing 3. anchor/clove hitch, "Off Belay!" 4. set up top belay (option 1: climber shows guide mode, Option 2 a grigri with redirect) 5. follow climbing 6. swap lead 8. Bottom belay with redirect 9. Top Belay with option 2 and rope management 10. rappelling with ATC 11. rappelling with grigri and tag line

Dudes, can you break some Reverso that is clipped upside down. So the master carabiner is clipped to the LITTLE hole that's used for lowering in guide mode? In this case the master carabiner has to be with very thin gate lock but it happened to me once. :)

I mean, it's in the title guys. This is how NOT to multipitch!

Totally awesome route

You guys should strength test an anchor system, like a quad, where the carabiners are clipped over the chains vs. under. Under’s super annoying to clean so I wonder if there’s any safety concerns to clipping on top of the chains.

Doug Robinson is an awesome dude

Hi, could you test the knot shown at 2:25 the figure 8 but with the end threaded back to prevent locking. I'm really curious how strong it is since we use it all the time.

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS use a redirect until your climber is at their first bolt. As soon as they are at their first bolt, you can take the rope out of the redirect, as the redirect quick draw can be annoying sometimes. Good video overall guys.

Where is this? Looks perfect for easy multi pitch practice.

Would love to see a series on basics of rock climbing, for people just getting into the sport.

When you get the drop tower set up, you definitely need to test factor 2 falls on slings (PAS) vs factor 2 on clove hitched rope.

OH man, Doug is my new favorite person in the world

11:41 for shame Bobby! You didn't lock that carabiner!

Hey one big question . What can I do if my rope gets stuck with something when I’m pulling it down from the rappel station above me?

The belaying with the device off the anchor thing is nifty and I know a lot of people like it but I've always left the device on my harness. As you showed at the end of the video, complicating things can turn deadly. Hip belays are perfectly good. We used to use them a lot on slabs in Oklahoma because you could reel in rope fast if the leader fell. I got saved once that way. We did the things we read about in Robbin's Basic Rock Craft.

is this the same area from your how not 2 bolt a sport climb ground up?

what is the yellow webbing anchor called he is using at 8:04 ?

Wow, this is so different from how we do it here in Austria (and honestly I think our way is better :D ).

I don't even climb but still watch this for some reason :D

Why is no one holding the brake strand of Doug's rope between when he arrives at the first belay and before he tethers in? Really?

It's odd that Ryan belayed the follower equalized off two bolts but the leader off a single bolt via his tether.

Looking to head out there any tips

Legend.

There's so much weird stuff going on in this video. Some of these anchors aren't actually anchors. I get that this is super easy climbing but should this really be an instructional video on good multipitch climbing? The only thing that looked good was the guy building an anchor with the rope.

Why two different anchors 1) 2 quickdraws and 2) the sliding x sling?

What route is this?

What is this route? Looks like the Tahoe/Sierra area

wow this is sooooo different to what is common in europe or at least the way the Dutch instructors teach multipitch. Not that it’s wrong - hey we’ve got no mountains of our own, what do we know - but different for sure

P1"show me" P2"Now YOU SHOW ME!"

I build houses for a living (5 days a week for 5 years on heights for 1/2 the time) and hate to be clipped into something unless I'm likely to fall (8/12+ or snowy 2nd story). I'm sure I can learn something here thought?

Ryan, is the fact that your helmet always a liiiiitle bit on the side a fashion choice? :)

Where is the place your climbing at

@1:15 wow backup! whats with the fancy fig 8?!

Interesting that you chose to use pas on the way up and not clove in. Why is that?

I need you to break test Dougs hip belay

19:03 Ryan, so we found out in your brake test video that some of these wires are held in with some epoxy. If somebody leaves their ATC in their car and lives in the desert (palm springs, death valley, Joshua Tree, Arizona) in the car can get up to over 140°. And the ATC was in the Sun, it can easily get over the temperature needed to liquefy that epoxy, especially cheap low temp stuff. That's probably why the wire came out on that person for no reason. Not saying you're being skeptical of them or anything I'm just giving it an example of what can happen.

There are many things here which are completely different from the standards and not recommended at all but then the video is how NOT to multi

I still watch the Moving Over Stone videos. D.R. is a legend. At 7:58, you are hanging from one bolt without a belay. Don't know about that. Cordelette would make things much better. Giving a master loop to tie into. Not a big fan of the "guide mode" of belay. You have to go back to the belay loop to lead belay, which you should do a whole new safety check. Where is the benefit? I get it if you are belaying a newbie and they keep falling but most people, on most climbs don't fall, and if they do the friction takes most of the weight anyway. At 7:30, if you were to fall the Gri-Gri could be pulled into the carabiner that can inhibit the cam, the self-locking mechanism. However, the new manual does show this way so I am not sure what has changed so maybe it isn't a problem. At 12:17 I don't know about belaying on one bolt, with one non-locking carabiner. People on El Cap have died when a bolt failed.

What crag is this? I'd like to check out Bobby's stuff

I often forgot I was watching a how not to vid..lots going on.

Anyone know what route this is? Might try it for my first multi pitch!

Location?

I like how you say that you won't ask me to hit the like (because it's annoying) and straight after that you assume that I'm binge watching your videos. Which isn't far from the truth. I'm not a rock climber, but I do love watching your videos.

Mike, where's your helmet?

It was before you had the rocky talky? Hahah so much shaulting

I must say that i have watched and enjoyed all you videos since the very begining on slackchat and stuff. But this is the first time i have to comment something negative. This video is at best impossible to understand for begginers and at worst dangerous. Several techiniques shown here should NEVER be used by anyone ! Why would you make a video showing how to multipitch and be only clipped into one bolt when there is a perfectly safe one lying 20cm to the right ? Why would you make that horrendus anchor with draws ? Yes it is safe(ish) but it is not at all desireable and should not be show in this context. Why would you show doug using a static sling as a personal anchor and not say anything about the potential dangers of this practice ? Why would you use that huge permanent hook in this type of educationnal video ? I am saying that you will never see one in a multipitch route and therefore no one should expect one. The only thing that makes this video less dangerous is that a begginer wouldn't understand a thing as there is no structure, it is going all over the place. How is someone that doesn't already know how to multipitch supposed to learn anything from this ? We don't understand what you did before you show it, we don't see anyone flaking a rope. And come one please show at least one anchor from the moment you climb to it, to the point where you have to leave it. Make cuts if you want but this is a total shitshow. I'll finish by linking a video (and all of the channel for that matter) where you can really see the good stuff being done : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nMCYn651rc66poE.html I hope you remake or modifiy this video as it is way below the usual standards of what you do on this channel. Sorry for the english mistakes this is not my primary language.

How did fellow climber break his arm?

Where is your helmet Mike?

why are the belay bolts on the edges of overlaps/flakes? worst possible place to put them from a strength point of view. doug's belay at 12:17 could be better...he's actually running belay rope through left bolt, so somewhat indirectly on it, but many people watching might not realize and think clove hitching a single non-locker is ok.

Where is this wall?

Where are you climbing? Exactly.

Quite entertaining video, however, bolts or not, a fixed or not fixed triangle at each belay using the two anchors is in order. Clipping the belay device directly to one of the bolts is a no-no in my book. Also, each climber should be double thethered to the belay central point (or at least one of them) not because of strength requirements, but because by mistake you or your partner can remove one o your attachments. Well done, but it could be done better.

What accident happened to Bobby?

Love your vids, but there’s so much YGD cringe in this one. Cloving into non-lockers, tethering into single bolts, and failing to lock belay carabiners. The QuickDraw anchor on multi pitch is just weird and I think you should have showed something more conventional with a redundant master point for your second to clove into. I’m all on board with “Not everything in the system can be redundant” but why not use both bolts at an anchor when they’re right there?? It sounds like these bolts were recently installed by Bobby but most bolts in the wild should be treated with a healthy suspicion and trusting your life to a single bolt is a bad practice to show to newbies. Bolts “should” be strong, but man I’m not trusting my life to “should”.

1:33 has Doug Robinson his carabiner clipped into only the upper loop?

Mike - hope that you get a helmet for Christmas...............

I highly recommend hiring a guide to learn best practice. While the techniques in this video can work, they are not best practice and only work in this situation. I am sure Ryan knows this and showed these methods to to their simplicity.

11:40 red is dead!

wasn't the redirect back clipped?

Calling off-belay while clipped to a single bolt? Why?

I'm a big fan of the channel, but there are so many things in this video (designed for beginners?) that made me cringe. 1:35 Doug should be tied in to the other end of the rope so you can do a partner check of both knots 3:11 Securing off 1 bolt at the anchor instead of 2 is very poor technique... why not use 2? 3:48 The quickdraw anchor. It works, but it's weird and not something I've ever seen multipitch climbers use. There are way better options available. 5:00 Doug using a static sling as a personal anchor instead of clove hitching into the rope (without explaining why that can be a bad idea) 8:12 Clipping the rope side of the quickdraw to your harness is not standard. You want to make sure the biner you clip to the hanger is always the same (hangers can cause little metal scrapes in the biner that you don't want your rope passing across) 9:45 This is an old-school belay method, belaying directly off the anchor in guide mode is preferable these days 10:51 Bobby not locking his locker attached to the anchor 11:48 Doug using a clove hitch on the next pitch but using a non locker. It's preferable to use a clove hitch instead of a personal anchor (rope is dynamic, slings are not), but use a locker! 13:40 You are passing the rope through the hanger-clipping biner of the quickdraw. Like I said above, this is not best practice. 10:57 Bobby builds a nice rope anchor 12:35 Bobby grabs gear to go climbing 13:27 Mike is climbing 14:07 Bobby is back belaying on his rope anchor. So confused on order here?? 15:22 Simulclimbing is a pretty advanced topic... probably better to tell beginners to have some beta and know how long their pitches are so they don't have to simulclimb. 18:45 I like this! Nice to show a beginner's mistake! These techniques are by no means good practice. Sure, you're probably not going to die from any one of these, but it's so easy to do things right and change a low probability of failure into zero probability. It's also confusing as heck to jump around and show so many different techniques, systems and anchor setups. Maybe better to show one good way and just do it really well? If the intent of this video was to show some useful tips and techniques to more novice climbers, I think you've missed the mark. I think your videos would be better with a little more structure, purpose and good technique.

I wonder if showing controversial techniques is for the algorithm ;)

Does Bolting Bible have same amount of mistakes?

Ive got all the respect for Doug, but i don’t think i like him going in direct with a clove hitch and a non locker on a single bolt. Poor practice IMO and is too easily unclipped while operating at the belay.

This video is pretty misleading and a lot of the techniques used I simply cannot recommend for beginner (multi-pitch) climbers. 1) both climbers should be tied into the rope before the leader leaves the ground. This ensures that the follower also has their figure 8 safety checked by leader 2) the quickdraw anchor is an awful example and only should be used if absolutely necessary (i.e. you drop your anchor building material off the face of the climb). Use a pre-tied quad or equalized overhand master point, it can be checked by both climbers before leaving the ground (for the quad at least) and takes far less time to setup upon reaching the top of a pitch. There is an argument to be made for more creative anchor building in trad and/or alpine multi-pitch but on a bolted sport route just use a damn quad 3) pretty poor rope management at the belays. Rope that is pulled in by the belayer at the top of the pitch should be draped over the belayer’s tether so that you don’t have 30ft coils running down below you that could get snagged on terrain features or plants. Bobby does this at 11:20 but this should be standard practice for all of the climbers in the video 4) there is truly no reason to use a PAS when the leader is securing themselves to the anchor. A locker with a clove hitch is far superior for shock absorption and not to mention the length of your tether can be infinitely adjusted to best suit the given belay station 5) at 6:23 Ryan is tether into just 1 of 2 anchor bolts at the belay station. If you have 2 bolts to work with USE them! The only time tethering into a single bolt should be acceptable is emergency situations, ideally where the climber knows they will not dynamically load the tether/bolt Just my 2 cents though. I would recommend to any beginner climbers that want to learn multi-pitch climbing please just hire a guide and take a course on multi-pitch climbing. You will learn the proper techniques in a safe environment with a knowledgeable mentor

Socks n climbing shoes!? How NOT 2 look cool while climbing.

Algorithm comment

Puh, all respect to you guys, but that way to climb multipitches is not state of the art.. hard to see you guys achieving pseudo-redundance with quickdraws...

Bobby's carabiner is not locked :(

3:57 isn't that a tri loaded carabiner? If it is it severely compromises the carabiner's strength.

Lol at all the people who talking shit. Make your own video if you know so much then!

I disagree with all the criticism, looked safe and everyone had fun. Loving these videos with Doug!

LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!! However! Multi pitch climbing is WAY simpler than all this old style, non redundant or unorganized rope work. There were some key red flags if I ever came up on an anchor. Bobby’s locker was unlocked for the atc while belaying his follower perhaps? Why? No point not to lock it. A redirect on 4 class is moderate and acceptable with experience, it’s an older tactic that doesn’t really need any more addressing than if you know about it. You save a lot of time just using the anchor for organizing sake, rescue, or a swap or lead anyhow. Why not clip into a quad or prepare for a multi pitch sport day better with appropriate anchor material? Clipping to one bolt is bomber, but not too shabby when the master point is one anchor bolt per person.. alpine or not, you should always make things efficient and easy. A lot of these systems could have at least been better. For one, the rope anchor Bobby made just clove both ends vs a figure 8. It’s more adjustable, and the master point is easier to manage with cloves. I would also mention that a buddy check is prospect. If you don’t take it a little seriously that could be the last time you buddy check. It’s simple. Figure 8 Knot counts to 12 points (including both harness loops) Harness double backed Atc locked and loaded oriented correctly. As an experienced climber myself and respecting your amazing videos which I watch often myself for reference.. I think this could have been cleaned up quite a bit. With respect. All y’all legends and we appreciate the work.. those of us that are experienced and have technical knowledge know the faults in this video. For the untrained eye. Read the. Idea title and remember that.

This video should be titled how to multipitch without a real anchor. Good luck escaping the belay when it is your anchor. Not a bad method if you drop your anchor or forget it like these guys but less than ideal.

tall team your binner is red hot...

Along with all of the comments and criticisms here...this video will get somene killed....the end where Doug does his old skool hip belay is just another....the non braking side has to be clipped into his harness to prevent the rope from being pulled down around his butt....i have need climbing since '73...use that belay often but he needs to be showing proper use....this should be titled how to kill someone multi-pitching....( and one of the tall guys without a helmet....seriously?)

I love your videos but this video is very dangerous, it literally is a "how not to" video without joke. there are so many dangerous mistakes. I really hope you re-edit it to at least hide the open carabiners belay, the single point security on unchained anchors or the quickdraw relay. and maybe check with the local climbing association to get the latest multipitch belaying guidelines. these guidelines literaly save lives. and multipitch belaying being something you typically do alone without anyone checking you, sincerely think it's worth learning it ONE way and that way should be the current best practice. not 3 different options that might confuse newcomers. (and yes I know those bolts are super strong, but they might not always be, might as well learn to do it the right way).

Lotta yikes going on here. Hope you aren't getting folks hurt. Should just have filmed a fun day out climbing and not pretended to make it instructional.

Massive overconfidence and complacency on display. I think this kind of laissez-faire belaying (9:30) and station building is actively harmful, especially when categorized as "educational". Don't explain things when you aren't doing things correctly. It gives a false sense of adequacy, and newbies will believe that this is safe. Take a course people! Do not copy this stuff.