How not to get injured - Antagonistic training for climbers

  Рет қаралды 296,275

Magnus Midtbø

Magnus Midtbø

Күн бұрын

Bouldering starts at 05:25
Music and Sound Effects: share.epidemicsound.com/vSnfn​
Shot and edited by Magnus Midtbø
Sponsors:
- Toyota
- Scarpa
Content
00:00 Training
05:25 Bouldering

Пікірлер: 433
@MiguelClimbs
@MiguelClimbs 2 жыл бұрын
Good one Magnus! I know the training content doesn't get as many views, but it's really helpful to all climbers!
@mrthirty1139
@mrthirty1139 2 жыл бұрын
The last one is external shoulder rotation. It targets two of the rotator cuff muscles, the infraspinatus and teres minor.
@Go3nthar
@Go3nthar 2 жыл бұрын
I think if people don't have weights at home but for example an elastic band they can attach it to a door handle and easily do the same exercise :)
@kennysvensson9337
@kennysvensson9337 2 жыл бұрын
And please tale it real easy with the weights with this one. Talking like 1-2 kilos. Those muscles are tiny and very easy to injure.
@theAFKeyboard
@theAFKeyboard 2 жыл бұрын
@@Go3nthar This one is called "no money". You grab a band with both hands, keeping elbows for the whole time close to the side of the chest and stretch the band to reach 45 to 60 degree angle with each forearm.
@KnicklichtGangster
@KnicklichtGangster 2 жыл бұрын
This exercise in particular helped me a ton while recovering from a dislocated shoulder. After a couple of months it felt very stable again due to this exercise (Of course i had to do other exercises as well)
@Asdfghjkl-ls1or
@Asdfghjkl-ls1or 2 жыл бұрын
Lmao I use to use the same profile picture, now I just have it as my wallpaper. Beautiful dolomites
@SendStory
@SendStory 2 жыл бұрын
Antagonist exercises are also great for coming back from injuries. I've had tendon and inflammatory issues that have always seemed to get better when I do opposition training and supply my body with the appropriate nutrition. They are also great for looking like magnus, haha.
@BoulderingHighlights
@BoulderingHighlights 2 жыл бұрын
4:10 External rotators of your shoulder i.e. Rotator Cuff muscles which include Teres Minor, Teres Major, Subscapularis. These muscles are more towards Agonistic muscles in climbing and are the main supporting muscles for keeping your shoulder healthy especially during overhangs and cutting lose
@Mylada
@Mylada 2 жыл бұрын
Subscapularis and teros major are internal rotators of the shoulder.
@leoingson
@leoingson 2 жыл бұрын
.. and external rotation is antagonistic to normal climbing pull motions.
@AngrySkipperGC
@AngrySkipperGC 2 жыл бұрын
Being a bit pedantic here, but you are incorrect on what the rotator cuff muscles are. There are 4 muscles that make up the rotator cuff - including: subscap, infraspinatus, supraspinatus and teres minor. teres major is not part of the rotator cuff muscle group.
@dave_h_8742
@dave_h_8742 2 жыл бұрын
@@AngrySkipperGC Always open to learning.
@fetskidor
@fetskidor 2 жыл бұрын
@@leoingson Not necessarily. You pull yout body upwards and forward with the humeral head as the pivotal point, that should indicate that you are right. But, at the same time you apply a contralateral rotation in the torso in most climbing motions, that allows you to project your body further upwards/forwards relative to your scapula as you contract supraspinatus, infraspinatus and teres minor, together with the scapular stabilizing muscles. Therefore, external rotation cuff muscles are antagonists in most shoulder pulling motions.
@tommeyer3871
@tommeyer3871 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you Magnus for the training tips. Also, great ideas for the videos coming up, definitely looking forward to those - especially learning more about ice climbing
@griffinlarson5878
@griffinlarson5878 2 жыл бұрын
Love your vids so much Magnus! I have been watching your channel for a WHILE like I think I was here when you were at 100k. Your channel really pushed me to climb.
@mentallyoffline7005
@mentallyoffline7005 2 жыл бұрын
The lighting, angles, and production on this video are sooo good, Great Work!
@philipegoulet448
@philipegoulet448 2 жыл бұрын
The production quality on this one is outstanding! Good job magnus!
@riqui7835
@riqui7835 2 жыл бұрын
I love all your videos magnus, but the educational ones i always watch multiple times, as someone who started climbing as an adult i need all the training and injury prevention i can get!
@InterwovenElements
@InterwovenElements 2 жыл бұрын
Love this stuff. No over explaining, not pretending to know anything you don't know, just sharing the routine and what's working for you. Keep up the great work as always Magnus!
@vancestanfield
@vancestanfield 2 жыл бұрын
Really appreciate all this amazing content you make for your fans! Always shocked me that you even edited the footage as well. Great video!
@davidsayre-dolan9782
@davidsayre-dolan9782 2 жыл бұрын
Love the new feel of the content - it seems relaxed, relatable, and like you’re having fun!
@ThisisIzzat
@ThisisIzzat 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you Magnus for always staying humble and sharing these content! And for keeping me motivated and excited always!
@pwnz0orz
@pwnz0orz 2 жыл бұрын
I'm very new to climbing, coming in from a regular gym training/bodybuilding background and I don't want to stop going to the gym since it's something I love to do. It's great to see someone talk about how I can combine those two sports, not only to complement each other but also to prevent injury! I've been binge watching your vids and it is really helping me progress fast.
@owievisie
@owievisie 2 жыл бұрын
I have the same background and I'm going to give you a big tip, try to focus ALOT on technique instead of power and strength Because we are already strong we tend to use poor technique and just bang out grades really fast This will cause injuries once you start to hold crimps because our fingers are weak and we will rely on bicep and back power to componsate Really focus on technique, the 2 best advices that I got was keep your arms straight and ass low, and try to fuck the wall, aka keep your ass against the wall as much as posible
@thebazm606
@thebazm606 2 жыл бұрын
I always get really excited to go climbing, when I see your videos. Keep it up ! Great content
@ryanzimmermusic
@ryanzimmermusic 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you Magnus for making this video. Such an important topic for climbers to be aware of in their training!
@alixvolte
@alixvolte 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the teasing for the videos to come! Looking forward to these ^^
@talilkr5238
@talilkr5238 2 жыл бұрын
Love this to keep injury free, this is what a lot of fitness tubers miss out on. Keep it up.
@Lexcommentyoutube
@Lexcommentyoutube 2 жыл бұрын
Very excited for the ice climbing video! That sounds like it'll be awesome
@patrickbourne3819
@patrickbourne3819 2 жыл бұрын
Really great video! Your effort has really paid off, it looks great with the lighting and how you set the shot up. Also really loved the format of the video. Including some climbing in there as well was really nice!
@iluecha
@iluecha 2 жыл бұрын
That is the kind of video I am following your channel for! Love the second part 🤘🏻
@michaelbeard7082
@michaelbeard7082 2 жыл бұрын
Amazing videos as always and love the improved quality of camera, transitions, lighting etc.!!! Keep them coming
@FannysLoA
@FannysLoA 2 жыл бұрын
I love educational videos like this ❤️ Keep'em coming. Especially for beginners who have no idea what they're doing
@mithandsmills3693
@mithandsmills3693 2 жыл бұрын
FYI - The 'muscle in the shoudler' he never uses is infraspinatus, which performs external rotation of the shoulder and helps stabilise the top of the arm bone in it's socket! Source: practicing doctor, UK Magnus - amazing content as always
@LittleCloni
@LittleCloni 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the training tips Magnus! I recently started climbing more seriously and I will try to incorporate those exercises into my routine. Also I wanted to say that I love watching your content, you just are a really likeable person I could see myself having a drink and a nice conversation with. OT: I just ordered two pairs of your climbing pants and DUDE are you guys quick! They already shipped and will arrive tomorrow in Switzerland.. amazing! Cheers and see you in the next vid :)
@kroot0x
@kroot0x 2 жыл бұрын
looking forward to those future idea's for content, also very excited to see Pete again. WIDE BOYZ
@reacher1077
@reacher1077 2 жыл бұрын
While you are in switzerland maybe you could collab with Soyfa Yokoyama, she also has a youtube channel and is on the swiss national climbing team, would be really great to see you climb with a really strong female climber!
@sophies5
@sophies5 2 жыл бұрын
Yeah, I would love to see this
@Strummify
@Strummify 2 жыл бұрын
Yes pls
@evanpowers1795
@evanpowers1795 2 жыл бұрын
Yes
@Eduardado
@Eduardado 2 жыл бұрын
Production quality improved. Awesome. Very helpful also. Thanks a lot Magnus
@GoogleAccount-tg9lp
@GoogleAccount-tg9lp 2 жыл бұрын
Love the bouldering, but very excited to hear what you have coming up!
@taylor5982
@taylor5982 2 жыл бұрын
Excellent video, I nerd out watching your editing and cinematography skills!
@bigchickenking9576
@bigchickenking9576 2 жыл бұрын
Plans sound good, so stoked for what's coming Magnus!! :)
@spiercevaughn
@spiercevaughn 2 жыл бұрын
Love the video. Some good exercises I’ll try. Sounds like the ice climbing video will be awesome!
@snefansson
@snefansson 2 жыл бұрын
I've currently started doing a lot of these exercises because I started getting the climber posture. Great that you're getting the word out there. I was getting to the point that my antagonist muscles was so weak in comparison that I was getting injuries everywhere
@el3xg373
@el3xg373 2 жыл бұрын
This is super interesting. I've progressed to a level now (7a+ish) where posture has become a problem. I'm also a tall guy. Actually researched the best antagonist training for climbing a week ago, and this video is just absolutely perfect. Thank you so much :)
@javierromerogarcia4912
@javierromerogarcia4912 2 жыл бұрын
Nice video Magnus! Thankssss for all you did
@BFlanagan97
@BFlanagan97 2 жыл бұрын
Upcoming content sounds great, look forward to the ice climbing!
@Natural_Encounters
@Natural_Encounters 2 жыл бұрын
Awesome video, this is super beneficial content! Thank you for making this.
@fhcwcsy
@fhcwcsy 2 жыл бұрын
Really looking forward to the ice climbing video, and video with Pete!
@chriscroteau4793
@chriscroteau4793 2 жыл бұрын
With all the crazy things you do, never getting hurt is DEFINITELY something to brag about! Can’t wait to see the next episodes!
@LunicussOfficial
@LunicussOfficial 2 жыл бұрын
It's because he's super super strong and always climbs stuff that he has excess strength for - if Magnus can't do a climb, it's probably because of technique, if that makes sense. According to Dave Macleod (who bases this off the research), the number one way to avoid injury climbing is simply being stronger.
@giacomocasanova2893
@giacomocasanova2893 Жыл бұрын
@@LunicussOfficial I would disagree on this. the main climbing related injuries are all tendon related. being stronger prevents muscle injuries but it also puts a lot more stress on your tendons as you can‘t train those. it‘s a problem for bodybuilders as well and I know for a fact that Magnus hast tendinitis. He mentioned it in a video with the ninja warrior guy.
@LunicussOfficial
@LunicussOfficial Жыл бұрын
@@giacomocasanova2893 Huh? You can absolutely train your tendons. Eccentric exercises, for example, will strengthen your tendons. They just get stronger or weaker more slowly than muscles. Magnus has never needed to take time off due to an injury, which is an extreme rarity for a climber with decades of experience.
@giacomocasanova2893
@giacomocasanova2893 Жыл бұрын
@@LunicussOfficial they are still the limiting factor and not the strength of the muscles as you falsely stated in your previous comment.
@LunicussOfficial
@LunicussOfficial Жыл бұрын
​@@giacomocasanova2893 I think that's a misunderstanding on your part. Tendon strength is a subset of strength. When you get stronger, both your tendons and muscles are getting stronger.
@InspeCtaArChiE
@InspeCtaArChiE 2 жыл бұрын
Looking forward to the ice climbing video, that will be super cool!
@gustavdyrssen8729
@gustavdyrssen8729 2 жыл бұрын
Excellent video Magnus!!!!
@foodmanhuffy3090
@foodmanhuffy3090 2 жыл бұрын
I’m looking forward to the ice climbing video so much! It looks so cool!
@aasmundnrsett8751
@aasmundnrsett8751 2 жыл бұрын
So excited to see videos with Pete again!
@matteos.3438
@matteos.3438 2 жыл бұрын
external rotations and other shoulder work is gold!
@TheExecunator
@TheExecunator 2 жыл бұрын
thank u so much, ive been looking for a video like this!
@Rustic.illustration
@Rustic.illustration 2 жыл бұрын
Absolutely loved the way this was filmed mate
@williambeldamlkke8054
@williambeldamlkke8054 2 жыл бұрын
The camera angles and lighting in this video is looking absolutely amazing
@dougthebuilder1
@dougthebuilder1 2 жыл бұрын
can't wait for the videos with Pete again! you two bounce off each other really well.
@sikerow3180
@sikerow3180 2 жыл бұрын
Cant wait for the ice climbing video and gymnastics also sounds quite interesting
@calebmartinez9350
@calebmartinez9350 2 жыл бұрын
Love these types of videos!
@sirsanderson8861
@sirsanderson8861 2 жыл бұрын
Looking forward to you being in Switzerland, we have awesome winter climbing areas as well if you wanna feel some rock ;)
@hawthornewipe
@hawthornewipe 2 жыл бұрын
Magnus - the dumbell when you're laying on the floor is for rotator cuffs. Really useful - you can also do it standing up with a resistance band. Really cool you showed a different way!
@grantnorman1854
@grantnorman1854 2 жыл бұрын
Hyped for another training video!!! I'd pay to see a full powerlifting video!
@andersonboy620
@andersonboy620 2 жыл бұрын
Thats such an important video, thanks Magnus!
@josephdelassus89
@josephdelassus89 2 жыл бұрын
multi-cam is insane! Your prod has glow-up once again! Amazing
@joshwalker3003
@joshwalker3003 2 жыл бұрын
I’ve recently dislocated my knee climbing, so your videos are giving me my fix. Hopefully it won’t be long until I’m back fit and well, maybe more antagonistic training is needed!
@Solemn_Kaizoku
@Solemn_Kaizoku 9 ай бұрын
Thanks for sharing. This is super useful info for someone looking to safely get into climbing.
@joshworley4228
@joshworley4228 2 жыл бұрын
Bring on more collabs with Pete! Your videos together are always great. Thanks for posting a little bit of training stuff as well :)
@bandols
@bandols 2 жыл бұрын
Ice climbing sounds awesome and brutal. Excited to see those videos.
@joeppie1999
@joeppie1999 2 жыл бұрын
great idea to show this!
@csommer4492
@csommer4492 2 жыл бұрын
So psyched for the ice climbing videos!!
@Mirabell97
@Mirabell97 2 жыл бұрын
I'M SO HYPED for the women's gymnastics video!
@Gruuhk
@Gruuhk 2 жыл бұрын
Hey Magnus ! it's nice to hear that you are coming to switzerland ! You should definitely try to meet one of our famous climber Fred Nicole and maybe try some hard stuff on our outdoor crags !
@julianmuller7316
@julianmuller7316 2 жыл бұрын
Great quality of the video 🤙🏼really enjoyed
@tommorris3849
@tommorris3849 2 жыл бұрын
I love videos like this!! Keep ‘em coming:)
@maxw2132
@maxw2132 2 жыл бұрын
Haircut is looking fresh magnus!! Great video as always!
@nikonever94
@nikonever94 2 жыл бұрын
I'm psyched to see you ice climb!
@AP-gg7ep
@AP-gg7ep 2 жыл бұрын
Amazing information! More of this!!
@theuglypugling6770
@theuglypugling6770 2 жыл бұрын
Great lighting in this video magnus!!
@pierrem1012
@pierrem1012 2 жыл бұрын
Another Great video, thanks. Iceclimbing is so much fun, not at all like regular climbing but for shure you are in for a treat. Wish for more outside bouldering, maybe a trip to Fontaine bleau?
@dardhadard837
@dardhadard837 2 жыл бұрын
Within the first 33 secs I subscribed! I've been plagued with inaction and fear of working out: the knowledge that I might develop permanent limitations or imbalances due to armwrestling and climbing. This video I hope will help me start being consistent!
@Moache
@Moache 2 жыл бұрын
That wipe at 5:57 is the best camera transition Magnus has done so far.
@bb1039
@bb1039 2 жыл бұрын
TRS the ready state is a good source for rehab and strength; Strong first and Pavel Tsatsouline has some good knowledge and the good man Buckberger has great ideas and exercise for the rotator cheers
@angelofrevengeable
@angelofrevengeable 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the video .. vey helpful . Hope to see more content like that often
@FluksWorkouts
@FluksWorkouts 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this awesome video!
@ThatLaggyNoob
@ThatLaggyNoob 2 жыл бұрын
Magnus skipping holds on those two super hard boulder problems is just...wow!
@derWein
@derWein 2 жыл бұрын
We'll be waiting for you Magnus! 🇨🇭🧀🍫🌄
@wankershim
@wankershim 2 жыл бұрын
Video schedule sounds awesome! Really excited for the ice climbing. Would love to see some collabs with other fitness youtubers like juji, back guy, or anton.
@insearchoffaith
@insearchoffaith 2 жыл бұрын
love the training content!
@sigmal47
@sigmal47 2 жыл бұрын
Love your content!
@sylviaclimbing7217
@sylviaclimbing7217 2 жыл бұрын
Oh can’t wait for another Pete and Magnus combo!!!!! Exciting!!!! Hope to see some cracks! Maybe one of the parkour crack stuff the wide boyz have been doing
@Reeenald
@Reeenald 2 жыл бұрын
Upcoming videos sound really top !!
@andrewseburn
@andrewseburn 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video :) Great stuff.
@isaac-qz7hn
@isaac-qz7hn 2 жыл бұрын
Great video!
@jonasmata7738
@jonasmata7738 Ай бұрын
It’s so interesting to see training like this, for me I do bodybuilding training and the way it’s different is so cool. I’m also getting into climbing too so this is def a cool video to watch
@TheMegaMrMe
@TheMegaMrMe 2 жыл бұрын
"part of the reason" is one thing, but you should also note what other factors come into play. Genetics is a big one when it comes to injury avoidance. There are people out there that train and warm up but still get injured. What works for one person doesn't necessarily yield the results you want for another. It's healthy to train other movements, so good job on sharing this!
@CuriousGeorge1603
@CuriousGeorge1603 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this!
@henning_jasper
@henning_jasper 2 жыл бұрын
so psyched for the ice climbing!
@petermozuraitis5219
@petermozuraitis5219 2 жыл бұрын
I love training videos, even if they aren't the best for the algorithm I always love learning a little bit more about becoming a stronger climber! Could you please do some videos that include finger and grip strength for the beginner /intermediate level ? I don't think I'm doing to be doing dyno's on a campus board anytime soon lol
@Rlaay
@Rlaay 2 жыл бұрын
Looking forward to the ice climbing stuff, that will be interesting!
@SirCrashALot69
@SirCrashALot69 2 жыл бұрын
I can't wait for the next few vid ideas you have!!! My exgf is a gymnast and coach, so it'll be funny watching guys do female gymnastics. Plus i just watched "The Alpinist" on Netflix about Marc-Andre and it was cool to see him ice climb. I'd love to get back into climbing and go ice picking this year!
@orioltelleria8509
@orioltelleria8509 2 жыл бұрын
For the second exercise (the seated shoulder press) you're focusing the first and second heads of the deltoids, this heads both share the role of raising the arm, this mouvement goes from a range from 0 (elbow close to the body) to 180 (full arm extension above your head). So for making the excercise as much perfect as it can be done (cause you have a lot of intervention from the trapezoids and romboids especially in the final stage of the mouvement) you should go with the dumbell from a position where the elbow it's close to your trunk and from there push to the position where the dumbell its above the shoulder.
@Joulhayan
@Joulhayan 2 жыл бұрын
^ I was just going to say something like but not as elegant
@minihjalte
@minihjalte 2 жыл бұрын
So would you rotate the weight on the way up?
@orioltelleria8509
@orioltelleria8509 2 жыл бұрын
@@minihjalte that wouldn't change anything cause moving thé weight in the final position its just a pronation or supination of the forearm which none of them are tackled with this exercise (because we want to work thé elbow extension nor thé supination/pronation of the forearm). Sorrry bout thé delay to reply but I didnt saw your coment.
@ZoraZoldier
@ZoraZoldier 2 жыл бұрын
Oooo shit I'm so psyched for Magnus Ice Climbing!! 😄 💪
@austinjohnson8932
@austinjohnson8932 2 жыл бұрын
I’m from the future, great video Magnus 👍🏻
@micahbalala8248
@micahbalala8248 2 жыл бұрын
Definitely looking forward to seeing Pete again on your channel, Magnus =)
@klackodonk
@klackodonk 2 жыл бұрын
Much appreciated. As a newbie that just got injured I don’t want to be off the wall for so long again!
@phoenixphoenix12
@phoenixphoenix12 2 жыл бұрын
3:55 It's the rotator cuff which stabilize the shoulder, propably a good accesorry exercice for climbing as you use them to stay close to the wall in some position.
@sascha6auer331
@sascha6auer331 2 жыл бұрын
Finally, Magnus' secrets of getting not injured! Great!
@WillKillen
@WillKillen 2 жыл бұрын
It's actually incredible how you get such a high production quality on these self-shot videos. It must take a lot of time and I think it's fair to say that we all REALLY appreciate the extra effort you put in to make each video so enjoyable to watch!
@petermozuraitis5219
@petermozuraitis5219 2 жыл бұрын
The last exercise is a shoulder external rotation exercise, very very important for anyone who is strength training and doing a push workout. For me, I prefer doing them standing with a rubber band, so there's more tension at the end of rep
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