Looks to be a handy little device for modelling work Rob. Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK

Nicely done. Thank you for sharing.

Very nice, thank you for showing this set up.

Thank you for showing your work and giving a detailed commentary, always a pleasure to watch your channel. Best regards from Scotland.

Haven't stopped by in some time but really nice design!! Well done! Cheers..

Bravo! Fabulous piece of kit, complementing your dye grinder & Hilda set ups & so useful for putting cross holes where they are needed, using for example the optical setup with the camera microscope that you showed sometime ago to give super accurate hole division etc at such low cost. Thanks for sharing!

Nice little setup

Brill😀👍. Enjoyed the simplicity of the set up .

Thanks Rob good bit of kit.

Great idea. I may get an ER11 adapter to mount directly to the 5mm 775 motor shaft to eliminate the need for the belt and separate spindle. I just need it for a TPG.

Nice setup Robert, works well.

Hi Rob ! I have decided to finish/evaluate my projects in the pipe, but I'm afraid I just got another one in there ;-) ! I will try to draw it first and maybe get some good improvement ideas. Right now I'm buzy finishing my wheel chairs - a Hell of a setup job ! Thx for sharing !

Very good very useful but very easy to make .Thanks

G'day Rob. Very handy little device.

Nice. If you need bigger holes, you can do precise pilot holes with this, and finish on the drill press.

Nice one again Rob Those little motors are very useful and cheap Your setup would be ideal for cutting small keyways in shafts Thumbs up

I didn’t see the build (just subscribed). But this is a clever device! Awesome job mate

Nice job Rob. Looks like a mini Dumore grinder.

Hi Rob, A really nice design. A good test also. So it is a brilliant design for model makers, like you have proved. On one of my toolpost drills I have several drills that are shortened for use, like core drills for BA screws etc .

Thanks for this follow up on this little unit. I sure see lot's of ideas with this. One improvement might be a variable speed with a variable power supply up to full speed for better grinding capabilities etc.

Neat piece of kit Rob. Some cutting oil will no doubt help with drilling steel.

That is not bad on drilling at all, I have the 12 volt version of this, I made a 100mm circular saw for cutting Frets out on a cigar box guitar using a jig i made so the depth is only about 3mm in the cut, works perfect every time, The saw blade is direct on the drill. The 775 motor is not the fastest on the block but it has a lot of torque, Your drills were chipping nice there, they must be sharp!!

A good way to establish center height would be to put a drill or steel rod in the drill Chuck and the other end in the lathe Chuck. Then spot the holes in the pillow block to your mounting bracket

nice video Rob, i made a similar one and i used a larger ac supply with a bridge rectifier rated for 45 amps.and it works great also the same can be applied to a small southbend 9'' .....cheers

I like the setup, thank you for showing. It would be even better if that spindle was available with a small collet chuck, ER11 or so.

Note: It appears that my information about the drill chuck tapers is incorrect. I have only ever seen Jacobs Tapers on drill chucks in Australia, but apparently there is a B taper used on chucks in Europe. I read the chuck stampings and assumed they were all Jacobs as the smallest one is Jacobs 0. I reasoned that the B was a chuck size/type related number. I also notice that Steve Jordan referred to them as B type mounts and thought he was wrong, however it is likely that the three largest chucks are actually European B Taper and not Jacobs. So be aware of this difference. Cheers Rob

Its a pretty good idea Rob--I did something similar a few years ago,made sure the spindle was heavy enough and direct coupled an electric drill to it..Use it as a tool post grinder or use it with an end mill to cut keyways in shafts..Its pretty handy to have around..E Also I have been using the wheel divider full on--had to make 15 or 16 sprockets--38 teeth --22--and so on--it was real easy,it was just work time..

Very cool, I've wondered at how powerful these little units are. Would be good even as a starting point for a light duty tool post grinder setup, where you want it to run a little faster. Thanks for sharing!

Pretty cool.

Note: This is NOT a heavy duty workshop unit. This is just a play thing that is excellent for model making. If you expect more, look elsewhere. Don't expect top shelf equipment for the few miserly bucks this thing costs. If you want the business then be prepared to pay for it. Cheers Rob

Very good

Slow it down and try a end mill might work for every small keyways or slots. Love the concept and simple design great job. Zed

Nice set up Rob... motor seems to work out adequate for modest drill sizes.

Nice job Rob. I will be ordering the same kit from Banggood. A while back, I needed to do some cross drilling on my lathe, so I cobbled a cheap Dremel type tool on to the tool post. It would have been much easier with the kit you used!

muy ingenioso y excelente idea.

I made a similar one some time ago...I think it would benefit from a bit more gearing down, providing more torque. As with most drilling, once you have a pilot hole, opening out to a bigger size is easy.

very cool

Just thinking out aloud... can you angle the compound and re-align the drill channel to parallel to ways and give room for longer drills? Looks great!

Rob, just a suggestion: mount the drill chuck on a pair of slots to lower and higher the chuck and use an end mill. Light milling on this would be a breeze, as always the video is well worth a watch. Keep at it, you give a lot of people both information and entertainment . Cheers

It's easy enough to measure power input, which is how small dc electric motors are often rated, anyway. 746 Watts per horsepower. At 19 volts, that's 39 amps per hp.

I've only just found this video. I've got all the parts to make a similar tool post drill/grinder for my lathe. Interestingly I independently settled on the exact same spindle and motor setup (Looked a good compromise between space and power, But I'm intending to make a flatter "Chassis" from either a block of alloy or, If the final dimensions allow it, one of the offcuts of thick walled steel box section that my workroom's littered with. My idea is to mount the motor at the end of the block, then cross drill the other end so I can lose the original drill spindles housing and fit it's bearings directly into the chassis. This way I should be able to flip the unit over and refit it upside down and at 90' when I need to drill into the end of a workpiece. As long as I measure the height from the compound slides top face to the centerline of the lathes spindle and double that to get the total thickness for the unit's chassis......... But minus a couple of MM, Because I'd rather it was shimmed up to get right on the centerline, as it would be a lot harder to "Shim down" to it if I slightly cock up the dimensions, I should be golden. 😁 I'll drill the tool post mounting hole through the block as close to the units drill chuck corner as I can in the hope it'll cut down on how much torsion the unit sees when I'm trying to push my less than perfectly reground drill bit's through workpieces. With any luck this should be a reasonably quick, But useful little addition for my lathe...... and yet another to it's alarmingly large collection of unguarded pulleys and belts (I really really REALLY have to do something about all those belts, It's probably a good idea to make some guards while I've still got all the fingers I'd require to make them !!! 🤔).

I always find myself thinking of the voltage as being _only_ related to motor speed, but I guess the real import is how much balls (or, in metric, wattage) the motor has to power through the tough stuff as opposed to no-load speed. In that vein, would you not be able to use a larger drill if you powered it with 36V?

Just like you say, it's great for drilling smaller holes, you could even try small carbide drill bits by maxing the speed, just that carbide needs a good solid set-up... Interesting due to the low cost of the whole assembly.

Pretty cool set up. wonder if adjusting the sizes on the pulleys to slow the spindle speed and increase the torque would help with the larger drills?

cool

G’day Rob, simple design and works, what else could you ask for. I was just thinking how many tool post drill/grinders do you need, you’ve done the Hilda, air pencil drill, now this, have you done others or am I confused with Steve Jordan? Works good mate, cheers Peter

Is that the JT2 sized Chuck? Great video, these little no power spindles look pretty neat.

i built one similar with a outrunner RC motor and a ER16 collet chuck

Do you think it would be possible to use a shorter belt? That would give a more compact layout.

that is a very neat set up Rob, I have been on the lookout for something like this for a while with a tool post grinder in mind, do you think your design would be up to grinding cheers mate, bob from Goolwa

hi rob ....is that 5" channel you used for the base of the bracket ? thanks ...Eric in Kentucky ...USA.......

Hi, how did you raise and lower your spindle? I’m going to build. Nice job. Thank you

Nice work sir, while you’re modifying it how about a larger pulley on the spindle, it would give you more torque and bring the rpm down for the larger drill bits.

Nice job, Rob! Given your title above, and that the 775 should take about 150W nominal - I guess you'd have somewhat better torque with a beefier DC supply (and cables): 10-15 Amps out to begin with, then it wouldn't drop its speed or hog, just chew up all the volts and amps and run! With your current supply the motor simply cannot perform, as the power supply limits the motor's possible output, which was your goal with the test. Your quote on "half an amp" is probably when the motor is freewheeling w/o a load. Measure the idling consumption with belt and spindle and you'll probably see it swallows almost 2 of your 4 available amps right there... BangGood's figures for revs and consumption is often not correct even at no-load. //Just for kicks I fed a kiddie electric kickbike 36 V (nominal 12 v & 150 W) and my ammeter maxed out at standstill, more than 20 A, or over 750W in. No harm to the motor in these short bursts. Just zoomed along at max 25 kph.// Cheers, DIYSwede

Have you ever had one of those moments when you turned the lathe on instead of the drill ! Cheers .

Очень хорошее приспособление...Возьму на заметку..если автор не против...!!

Hey mate, where did you get the pulley from? Was it home made or bought? Cheers

Robby, Decent demonstration and simple design that gets it done. I am as surprised as you at the capacity of the little motor. Most cordless machines have even smaller motors but the power is amplified through gear reduction which also amplifies torque. Some of that is achieved in this application by pulley ratio but not that much so the motor is really quite powerful. A set of machine drills and your good to go. Jobber drills would be too long in the larger sizes. Thanks for the information.

Hi nynudu, how much speed did you measure on the axis?

you should try powering it with a rc car brushless motor and esc

With an end mill inserted would it cut a key way groove?

Wonder if I can get to fit a tank. Put huge battery on tank.

Tay nghê gioi quá 👍🏆👏👏👏❤️

Now what you need are a couple of opposed cone pulleys and you will have a ‘drilling machine’!

😮😮

Just wonder how you'd be able to drill on an angle when directional don't have angles or do they

Hi buddy. What's the ratio of the pulleys?

😊

How does it stack up to the hilda

You could make a table saw

Какова мощность привода дополнительного шпинделя ???? Это постоянного тока от шуруповерта ???

you need a gear system...without a gear system. the motor will heat up quickly...

Как выставить соосность ??? или ход по Z...???

just having seen the size of those chinese bearings in the first video , doesn t look as there is a axial bearing in the kit, this will turn out to be a drill dulling device , why don t design and make it yourself

Would have been more impressive if you didnt use a pilot and let it drill a fresh hole each time

I think that little spindle needs a thrust bearing. It also runs to fast in my opinion. 500 rpm would be much better. You' re not doing any production work. you should try a cheap PWM board.

What these

Knowing utterly nothing about it, I would estimate 100 watts.

Power is a factor of torque and speed. You're basically wasting all the power on a speed that's way too fast and an as expected torque that's way too low.

You probably need a bigger pulley

Извиняюсь..что на русском...другого нет...Русский тоже могучий язык....😆

I would slow it down

Ferramenta com correia nao presta

No thanks.