Another quick note; the controllers Troy is referring to as "digital" are NOT digital controllers. They are analog controllers that use an electronic circuit board with transistors (SCRs) or a resistor array to control the power. They act like a "resistor" by using electronic components and are far more adjustable. Some of these electronic controllers may have a "digital" control circuit on the board but their power output is the same as a regular ceramic resistor. True digital controllers can only be used to control digital slot cars as their speed is controlled by an actual digital signal that is interpreted within the circuitry of the car or circuitry in the track.

Great video on ohms thank you, I asked a few times and you got it done, you're the best, love your show

Thanks for the videos and information. Keep this hobby alive man.

For what is worth, I found this info on the internet: Pro 10 and faster cars (built up Slotech, Viper, Wizzard, BSRT) will work best with 5-10 ohm control. Pro 4 (stock Viper, BSRT, Wizzard) will work with 15-30 ohms Mega G, SRT, Lifelike, and Tyco work with 30-45 ohms. T-Jets work with 60-90 ohms (many like to add a secondary resistor to provide slight fine adjustment). Mega G+ need 120 ohms for effective control.

I'm noticing a lot of "definitive" suggestions... but the thing about controller resistances... Use what feels best to you The bottom line of it all is... the lower the ohms, the quicker the response... the more ohms, the more smoothly the car responds. Find the combination that works for your individual muscle control.

Great channel! Keep going Dude!

I've never been shy about taking a rotary tool to a trigger. Get in there and shape it for maximum comfort, but also removes the possibility of sticking open

Hi..how many ohm's on the nose paper? Ha..

God bless you.

just getting my feet wet in this world but realize a nicer controller even to keep these ho cars on the track would be nice. any recommendations for brand and ohm? thanks

Thanks.

Some clarification: Be careful as Jeff mentioned below, MG+s have a high ohm armature that needs a high ohm controller. The important part of the ratio of resistance in your controller to the resistance in _the entire remaining portion of the circuit_ (arm, brushes, pickup shoes, track rails, power taps, etc) is to correctly position the _POWER BAND_ in your controller. A properly sized resistor is one where the car just barely begins to move when the wiper touches the second winding and continues to go faster the farther along the resistor the wiper goes and delivers max power just as the wiper reaches the end of it's sweep on the resistor. If the resistor value is too low for the car, the power band slides to the left meaning that the car will jump off the line when the wiper touches the second winding (like an on/off switch) as the car is already receiving more power than it should be and max power will be reached well before the wiper gets to the end of it's sweep. If the resistor value is too high for the car, the power band slides to the right and the car won't begin to move until the wiper is well in to it's sweep and, because the power band is skewed to the right, the resistor by itself will _never provide max power._ (Some controllers like the Parma Turbo and TQ controllers have a "full power" contact separate from the resistor so full power will be delivered when that contact closes at the end of the sweep regardless of the resistor size or power band position but it will cause a noticeable "jump" in speed right at the end of the trigger pull). THIS is how your ability to control the car is affected by the controller resistance to arm resistance ratio. Either of the conditions described above will also cause both the controller and the car to run hotter than normal.

Will 132 scale or 124 scale controllers work on a ho track?

why does afx recommend a 90-120 ohm for the modern cars with mega g + chassis ? also what would be a proper controller for chassis like jag nc2 gt and pr5 or dr1 ? thanks !

Inaccurate. Mega G+ needs a high ohm controller. In sets they come with 120 ohm controllers. You'll have a hard time driving it with, say a 60 or 70 ohm controller like most other sets come with. This refers to Mega G+ ONLY. Original Mega G runs okay with 60 or 70 ohms as do most other stock HO slotcars. Depending on the track most stock cars with Traction Magnets and even the older Slotcars may perform better using an aftermarket 45 ohm controller. Built cars with stronger magnets and low ohm armatures need a lower ohm controller. 35, 25 ohms for example. Depends on the car, track and voltage. Pro cars may need an even lower ohm controller. The most common aftermarket controller most people are going to want is 45 ohms. Without "brakes" for magnet cars, they don't need it.

I don't know where he gets the idea that 45ohm controllers are any usable setting for TJETS & Non-magnatraction. 80ohm+ is what you need for TJETS and such unless you just want an on and off switch, which you'll get with a 45ohm controller

Is Parma the same molding as the old Russkits from back in the 60's?

Do this effect tcr slotless cars also?

How do I select a drag controller?

So inaccurate info...