Great explanations James 👍

I never understand why they use Darlington transistor. At worst case you mentioned 20A, the transistor will have ~2 volt drop (12 - 2 = 10), so you car will be at 10v and then the full throttle switch kicks in and the throttle jumps ~17%. If I were to design a new controller, i would use a hall effect sensor, 200A 1mΩ FET (at the track terminals, bypassing all the controller wiring and almost zero delay, unlike the relay has), another fet for braking. This would have a finer control over the current, no steps and could add throttle curves/etc. I would probably add a instantaneous led ammeter (this can show how well the pickup shoes/make contact to the track (checking for pickup or track issues) and some other useful stuff. My last power supply and gun I made ~27 years ago. I mostly race AFX. The power supply was regulated 2 channels (one for each lane). On the gun i had 7 switches for power, reverse (mom and latch), brake (3 pos), NOS (afx was 12v, but we ran 25v (this made all of our cars fast), and NOS was 40v), led ammeter. I would link a pic, but yt will delete my comment. Oh, and on the PS, I had a switch to series the 40V channels for 80 volts! Any links to the latest high end controllers? Thanks for sharing.

I like your intro animation

Is a rollout control on 1/24 scale drag racing controller power that's redirected through a rheostat with a type of switch. thank you

If you take apart the socket for that 2amp plug, you'll see the contacts for the plug pins are VERY small, so really the banana plug is a far better connection than the plug.

Is there an adaptor to be able to run this on a scalextric track and not a routed circuit

Esperando o AntiBrake..... PARABÉNS PELO TRABALHO.

Excellent video but so very wrong about the standard ECRA/BSCRA plug. It's a 2 amp plug - not 5 amp, which is larger. And it was, and still is, used in UK mains installations. You can still buy them in Screwfix and from RS and people are still using them in homes, for low power lighting. Fortunately as far as I know no-one has ever plugged a controller into the mains as it would be very dangerous indeed. In this era of generally available 3D printing I did suggest the slot car associations around the world should come up with a standard design (with matching socket) that could be printed anywhere and use the metal inserts from some easily obtainable connector, such as the 4mm ones. But no-one seemed interested.

Ive designed a brake and coast circuit for the brakes on my controller. Works well on cars that have too much braking power. Applies full brakes via a relay for a pre-set time (adjustable) and then reverts to the brake pot which you dial up accordingly (i.e. not much brakes). Or you can have full brakes via the relay, or bypass the relay and just run through the pot. How handy are you with electronics? If youre interested I'll email you. I think I have the diagram as a pdf

The reason the alligator clips are used in the USA is they will break away when the wires are pulled. This setup has saved me so much rewire work on the controllers! There is a method to our madness!

Hi James ! I'm returning to racing Slot car, because of my son. I hope he really enjoys this fascinating hobby. I have old Parma resistor controls, and I would like to know if it is possible to transform my controls into these new digital . In addition to saving money, I always liked to assemble my equipment. If it is possible, do you have a list of parts and any documents on how to assemble? Thank you very much and I really enjoy watching your videos. Regards

Hi! You do not explain much on the way the transistor is connected in this video. Can you explain that also? There is a quick snippet of the circuit, but no explanation. E.g why isn't there a Mosfet used. Keep going, I like your videos, allthough mostly interested in more standard slotcars like Slot-It, NSR and Revo-slot.

I’m a there a risk of electrocution? When slot car racing?