Hey look I'm back from the dead after 2 years, thanks for the comment and reasonable question. The mixed terrain is to simulate actual game environments, because testing static performance leads to incorrect assumptions. While all you say is true, I specifically said in the conclusion that if you are on a route that has deep mud, why would you use a 6x6 that is clearly not suited to the task? There's bigger trucks specifically made for that task. You use the medium trucks for their speed and utility, not their mud crawling capability. There's quite a few maps with very few long mudpits, and i assure you if you stop running mud's as "insurance" you'll notice a massive time difference. The more experienced you are the more this rule applies and the more time you'll save. Hope that clears up my perspective.

@@TheHumanHighlighter yeah, thats reasonable. I think from a new player perspective, maybe you just don't have that many vehicles especially if you play maps in order so you might not have better than 6x6 or 4x4 for mud. If you have experience and you have all the vehicles, then moving to more specific tires for each route or map could have value. I definitely find the information interesting and useful for sure, I was just went into the video thinking there would be far more significant difference or one would be the "golden goose" of tires to use and it was interesting that there really didn't seem to be much difference over all. I do think it's interesting though that in many cases of not so deep mud the off-road tires cut down to a point that there is "off-road" terrain under the mud.. if you get around to doing more videos, I would be curious what the best "worst case scenario" options are, as on my first play through, i've gotten too Amur, and after much trial and error I have still not found any "best" truck or tire combination for the maps.

If you play maps in order, the only painful stages will be early because of levels locking you from upgrades, most of the maps (except a few obviously) have easy terrain and often have answers to the more difficult stuff baked in (Example being the P16 for the first area which decimates mud and hauls anything you need anywhere, or the Tayga in Russia). BTW, if you are new, consider following an order similar to this kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ecyCqK6ouaevl3k.html because the base game ordering is all over the place considering difficulty. The difference between the tires was a showcase of a worst case scenario, the route I took was horrible for offroad tires and favored the mud's. The whole point of it was to show that unless you are literally bottoming out (which means the truck should not be used for that area) offroads are better in almost every way, even when in a mudtires "playground". As for conquering the harder maps, I'd say your collected upgrades + truck choice (and in turn tire options) will be the biggest determining factor on how easy everything is. For the harder parts of Amur, I literally almost never ran 6x6 trucks in my latest run. Having to unstick with a rescue or take 10 minutes to inch thru mud was not very fun and I intend not to repeat that. As for suggestions, well, it's the same song and dance as any other "op truck" video: 73210, Ziks heavies, Flat nose kolob, Antarctic if you can manage tilt, some people swear by the Dan, and the Mack Def. + Kenworth also pull up for some western muscle. I plan to make A full comprehensive guide when the game releases an official last update where everything I say is set in stone. Mind you, I slapped this one together because nobody was talking about the nuance of tires and grip, which is probably why you are so confused and could (and did) easily misinterpret what I'm showing you. Hell, even this video has tons of outdated and technically incorrect stats, although the core idea still hold true. Also, a lot of community members (Go check out Nathan Province's videos) have done amazing work on the topic since my video, and I will return, but this is all I have to offer for now. Best of luck out there, may you stay upright my friend.

I've been playing for 2 years and just correctly learned how to use the transmission, and when, upon entering our driving in mud/snow

I'll do my best, I think my plan is to get a hold of some extra helping hands to speed up testing and make it less of a hassle to collect the footage.

If you're still playing: It's faster to jump between two maps to reset the mud. But an area around the trucks does not reset.

I follow you as you are my "go to" for snow runner info/gameplay.

Thanks, I'm glad you learned a thing or two. As far as the gear choice, as soon as the game's auto transmission started to want to shift gears (which you can tell by your RPM going down by listening to engine noise) I would usually put it into Low +, also if you hold the "clutch" as the game calls it, and move the "stick" into another gear position, as long as you don't let go it doesn't actually change, so visually it might look like I'm in low gear but its really just me hovering it over the low gear so I can instantly drop it as soon as the auto shows signs of downshifting. Keep in mind I'm only human, so there were a few times I remember shifting into the wrong gear, but generally I follow the rules above to maximize performance. I hope that explains what you are seeing here, and by all means if you can replicate my runs and do them faster then me with the same truck, send me the footage and I'll use it next time

The best way to get the best grip, is use the "diff lock" option, and here's why... when you are in heavy mud/water, with free turning axles, the tyres that grip, have no torque, and the tyres with no grip, are spinning wildly throwing mud everywhere... with diff lock, all four tyres are turning at the same time with equal grip... Also, this game incorrectly identifies the cars/trucks as "all wheel drive"... all wheel drive automatically powers each of the four wheels individually, providing the handling fir said vehicle, whereas, "four wheel drive", or "4x4", turns all four tyres together... Note: I mentioned four tyres, as in like scout cars, like pick-ups etc... the same rule applies for 4x6s, 4x8s, and so on...

Damn, I actually never noticed the fuel part. Luckily circumstances have improved for me and I'm planning to make a part 2 covering tires in different conditions (snow and whatnot) along with testing some tire combos on scouts. If you'd like to join me or maybe even just brainstorm, I'd love some veteran hands and a different view when making my follow-up.

Doing my best, I've got a full schedule but I'll find some time soon

@@TheHumanHighlighter No worries - life comes first. I'm subbed and will get the notification. (I hope). All the best :)

I'll try to make the vid more watchable next time, this one was more "function over form"

@@TheHumanHighlighter your head is in the right space. You are are going to doing the best things. Word to God

I'll try to do it soon, but be assured I WILL do it at some point.

in general - they all suck

@@TheHumanHighlighter quietly holding out hope

@@TheHumanHighlighter so never? :(

The Azov's and Kolobs are really the only bunch worth their salt, some swear by the Dan but the lack of suspension height kills it. You are spot on with the assumption that really the big boys are the only option, and even then the way the game models (or lack thereof) torque kinda kills the heavies. Best of luck in hardmode, especially for Taymir.

I gotcha kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e9qKZdBjv9OXpo0.html

@@TheHumanHighlighter ah yes.. the lofi. Word up. Thank you

The whole point of this was to test applicability IN-GAME as it currently works, I know about the TMHS glitch but I'm not going to edit game files. Doing so would alienate and console players watching this because they are incapable of doing such a change. I understand where you are coming from, but I set out to test general performance in the game's maps, not eek out every possible variable and find the mathematically perfect tire. Testing things in a vacuum usually doesn't yield results that are useful for high variability tasks, such as inconsistent mud thickness, variable terrain types, fuel usage, and the list goes on forever.

The game is the exact same on both, the only difference is graphic settings and control inputs being slightly different

Thank you for replying.

You'd have to give me a full breakdown of your current gamestate and what you have/don't have down to a T. Unfortunately, if you talk about different vehicles with different upgrades, it gets really messy really quick. Some have high lvl req's before they actually become useful, others require lots of map exploration for upgrades etc... Point is, you do what you think is best for right now with your current gamestate and learn from your mistakes.

@@TheHumanHighlighter exploration is not a problem for me. I always start hard mode with travelling to Alaska, and pick up most of the upgrades: ANK raised suspension, advanced special gearbox, heavy engine in Pedro Bay, top Fleetstar engine, high range gearbox, AWD for Kodiak, all Hummer engines, raised suspension for Tween Steer - basically everything I can sell without rescuinh the Royal BM17. I need an offroad truck for Michigan maps. I usually use ANK cos it's capable right from the start. However, I like Paystar a lot, I think it's got the best looks and the best engine sound. My question can be simplified down to: can an upgraded Paystar (balanced gearbox, OHS II wheels, raised suspension cos otherwise it has no rear suspension travel) be as capable as fully stock ANK? I use my offroad truck to pull out stuck heavy duty trucks and for 2 cargo in the bed deliveries, rarely with a trailer, not a semi-trailer, cos I use C70 as a semi truck. And another important part of that question is wether Paystar will have better range. Right now I'm testing (yes, I paused my game and I'm writing) in a brand new non-hard save file at rank 2 ANK Civilian vs Paystar. I can not play up until lv11, so I test ATHS Paystar vs ANKO Civillian. Route starts from the garage in Black River, than I go to the right, go uphill as if I drove to the waregouse, I drive past warehouse, turn to the foresty road with tree roots, than to the highway, go through the log station, than down that smaller highway I drive to the river. I cross the river, drive to the tunnel and finish at the garage in Smithville Dam. Both trucks carry the smaller fuel semi-trailer, like the one found in Island Lake cos Civilian don't have bed. Otherwise I'd have picked Service Spare Parts. So far ANK consumed ~72 liters garage to river, ~28 liters crossing the river, than ~17 river to tunnel and about 10 liters tunel to garage. 71 liters is what left in the tank (yep, I lost 2 liters rounding) Paystar with 3.4 liters consumed while idling in AWD, with the ability to switch to RWD... IT DID WORSE!!! ~95 liters it has swallowed by the time we finally got to the river (it was painfully slow!), it took it ~38 liters and quite a bit more winching to get to the other shore, roughly the same 17 to 18 liters to the tunnel, and the same 8-ish to get to SD garage. I expected something like a tie: worse tires burn more fuel but switchable AWD and a more fuel efficient engine compensates for that. But no, even on tarmac the difference is roughly proportional to the tank size difference. I'm about to test ANK with all-terrains but, honestly, I don't expect it to do that much worse.

@@TheHumanHighlighter I don't want to do the most rational desision, I need a good excuse to use Paystar - a truck I like. Rational decision would be to use ANK cos it's free.

@@TheHumanHighlighter oh, dammit, I forgot All-Terrains for ANK aren't available until rank 6. Than I'll test both on highway tires

@@TheHumanHighlighter can you guess who's shown better fuel economy on highway tires? Yep, the ANK Civillian. This time it's flat bed semi-trailer with 5 Service Spare Parts. It did significantly worse on dry pavement: 16 L to load at th SD warehouse and reach the tunnel, but it NAILED the Black River trailer store section with 27 L vs Paystar's 39 L, than we drove to the drilling island, crossed the river next to wooden bridge and took the shortcut from a 3 dollar gas station to BR Garage. Allthough not proportionally to the size of the fuel tank but stilp ANK consumed less fuel with only 152 L vs 175 L for Paystar. 48 L left in the fuel tank vs 65. Why is ANK so much more fuel efficient?!?!?

If you'd like I can make a Google drive and upload all 3 hours of footage there so you can watch it, and if that isn't enough feel free to copy my route and truck loadouts and do the research yourself. I was trying to keep it tight and not overly long, so ended up cutting alot of footage, sorry to hear that not having a visual analog is detrimental to your perception of factual evidence, but there isn't much I can do for ya.