I appreciate your making these videos, it's like hanging out with a good friend.

Adam that was an excellent video of changing belts on 252, and you are doing a great job of repainting machine, looks great and I'm looking forward to seeing it when it's done ! Thanks again Double D's Stump Grinding & Removal

Adam, great video as usual. I’ve got serrated nuts & bolts on my grinders due to loosing from vibration. I sometimes double nut fasteners as well. Thanks again and keep’m coming brother. Fran

I really enjoy your vids

Great tutorial Adam, you mentioned buying extra bolts/nuts for "just in case ". I always carry extra belts with me , for "just in case" . Having a hydro pump belt break on the job without a back up would definitely stink. I need to look around for a 252 , that would get my son out on the bigger jobs with me. Thanks for the belt supplier link. Their prices look very reasonable .

Great job on the clean up / fix up of your SC252 there Adam. The clutch on your SC252 looks different than mine. Mine does not have the triangular plate. And thanks for showing us the weld repair... it was a splinter in my mind... 😁

Awesome video l would like to see one on all the belt alignments. I just quoted a 40 stump job. I need to change my belts want to make sure my 252 is ready for the job.

Great video lots of good stuff to know 👍

Beautiful job .

What color did you use to match is so good? And yet again another great and super helpful video!! Thanks again!

Adam! Nice vid. I've seen Russ' vids too. I put SOOOOO much effort into the alignment of the sheaves on my 252. I didn't used to but would blow through bearings in a few hundred hours, belts real fast sometimes. After doing this I actually found my machine was almost certainly a little twisted when flipped before I bought it, and no more premature wear. I put a straight edge between the outer rim of the sheaves between the cutter and jackshaft, these two I get so straight I cannot tuck a piece of paper behind the straight edge. That should put me at .004" or under. Not that its always perfect the first time but the lower belt is easier for me to get very very lined up. Up top I am not so lucky, that's where the machine is twisted. To get it as close as possible there I tried numerous combinations of washers under the non operator side motor plate bolts till I got it right. Its really really close, not perfect, but that's due to another reason. That reason being I put the clutch/pulley assy on with an impact a few times when changing those bearings and belts before looking up the torque spec. The pulley/bearing assy I think is ever so slightly compressed from this. The "wobble" from this compression has got to be .015"-.030" or less MAX, can't be even a 1/16" of an inch, at least that's what it looks like. I cant get a feeler gauge back there and hold the straight edge and hold the backing plate out of the way while I do it. I do have a "performance" OPE brand clutch/pulley assy on the shelf if I need it but am saving it for a potential 35 or 40 horse upgrade some winter. Built my 252 a plow this past winter, check out the vid when you have time Adam, nothing like the hydraulically controlled ones that come with bigger machines but it works.. I must say having a notch like on the back of your 2011's jackshaft belt cover sure would make this process easier for me! Mine just has a hole in it and once that sheave its on the jackshaft the backing plate stays in the way and I have to move that backing plate up down all around out of the way of the straight edge. Next winter I cut mine like yours unless there is good reason not to. Ok, enough of my book. I've just never seen anyone or had anyone explain the alignment of the sheaves other than "make sure they're straight". This is how I do it. No video to come on the matter from me anytime soon. lol

The slide plate the engine sits on on mine was cracked to hell maybe worth a look, did you say you giving the filter # next week.

Hi and thank you for the time you spend making these videos they help me a great deal. Now I have a problem with my 252. I new to stump grind, but the other day I was grinding and the top shaft where the two bearing sit shifted to the left side of the machine causing one belt to snap and the shaft made a good impression on the belts cover. Apparently the two Allen screws that hold the shaft came lose causing the shaft to spin inside the bearing and shift to one side.( I have to mention that I had several sudden stops of the cutting wheel while grinding) So I bought two new bearings( the old ones were not to good) put everything together. Next they went to work, first job it ran good no shifting on the shaft, while finishing the second job the shaft shift to the RH of the machine. I tightened the screws on the bearings really good but still shifted. Do you have any recommendation on how to avoid this? I thinking to take the shaft to a matching shop and have them drill the shaft a bit where the two bearings Allen screws secure to the shaft. What do you think? Thanks, Greetings from Puerto Rico

Hey man any idea why my sc252 walks slow. Like it would walk up the trailer ramp without a problem and now it can barley make it up the ramp?

I'm the same way when I get bolts for any of my machines I always get extras Especially we go to a bolt supplier and they're stupidly cheap It's not worth it to have to go back to get one more or 5 or 6 extras And then every machine I own I have a toolbox that goes with me when I take that machine out that has all the extras in it so I could do a roadside repair if I had to

I have a question which is better the rayco Rg37 or the bandit zt1844

Thank you for your interesting and informative videos which are very inspiring. I am recently retired, 62 years old, and very keen to start a stump grinding business where I live in East London, South Africa. The population is about 400 000 people, somewhere around 70 000 residential properties. My big concern about this is whether there is enough demand for stump grinding in my city and will I have enough work to make an acceptable profit. South Africa is not like America, a lot of people leave stumps to rot away to avoid the cost of removal and with unemployment at more than 35%, there are a lot of willing people available to remove stumps manually. Do you have a way to estimate demand for stump grinding in a certain area or city. Thanks

11:04 about installing and tightening those belt, someone needs to fabricate a spring loaded belt tensioner (and share it) so that we don't have to slide the motor to tighten or loosen those belts,. Just my $0.02.

What is the belt number for offroadbelts you ordered?

How do you adjust the belt that runs to the cutter wheel

What would be the best motor oil to put in a rayco super Jr?

Hi , my name is Luis and I am very motivated on buying a stump grinder and offer the grinding service. I have a couple of fundamental questions, can you please help me to my ideas together?? Thank you.

What is the belt # from D&D?

Did you upgrade to a 1.5 inch jackshaft?

I don't own or have experience with this machine. Couldn't you just use a pry bar or screw driver and just pop the belt off the smaller pully, then pop the new one on?