Nice work!

In theory it would cause some friction and heat. But in practical application over hundreds of vehicles, never had an issue. If you really make it tight It would give you trouble but if it's slightly tight the way I do it, the shoes may wear prematurely just a bit, then end up precisely perfect with no clearance but no rubbing. In the short amount of time that takes, never had an issue. The alternative is to back off a little further, but most people overshoot that and end up with shoes out of adjustment after they just spend the time to perform adjustment. I target being a tiny bit on the tight side. 🙃

No it doesn’t, the adjustment for that will probably be located near the ebrake, removing the cover of the ebrake inside the vehicle should give access to the ebrake adjustment mechanism, and is usually just 2 nuts that you adjust down to tighten

@@robertwalls1382 - I’m no mechanic but I was doing my brakes with a friend a year ago when I posted that comment. After doing it I learned how it worked….the star adjuster actually DOES effect the ebrake. We didn’t tighten the star adjuster enough so when I pulled the ebrake up it was extremely loose. After tightening the star adjuster properly the ebrake was back to normal. The reason that is, is because that star adjuster pushes out the brake shoes closer to the brake drum. Well if it’s not properly adjusted when you pull the ebrake it’s loose because the brake shoes won’t even come into contact with the brake drum.

That's kind of personal preference. I have seen several different specs called out in factory service manuals. Personally I do it by feel, and probably on the tighter end of acceptable range. Too loose and you will get a low brake pedal. Too tight and you will get a dragging shoes and heat. But if you think about it, the lining will wear slightly and no longer be too tight. Also, 1 vs 2 rev depends on how quickly you can get it to spin, my spin may be different than yours. So either way, 1 or 2, you will be right in the range. Personally I adjust too tight, then back off a bit so it turns with a slight drag.

Must be released

If you engage the brake, you will not be able to get the drum off

This was on a 2017 Tacoma. The Corolla will be similar. If you take the drum off and get a feel for the adjustment while you can see it, it helps. Look for the star adjuster and the rubber plug in the backing plate.

I'm working on a Toyota van wagon from 1987 and it's the exact same lmao

One way will turn fairly easily and you hear a "click", that's the wrong way. Try to turn it the other way and you will notice it doesn't want to move, that's because the auto adjuster prevents it from self loosening. You need one tool to push the auto adjuster lever out of the way and another to turn the "Star wheel". I know you want "up" or "down" answer. I am not familiar enough with a Paseo to know, it varies from one model to the next.

If it has the hole in the drum yes, you are right, watch for the rubber plug. Many aftermarket don't machine it in.

@@paulkelley86 most hubs itself don’t even have the whole for you to adjust it inside of. You are quite lucky, most have to go in through the back which is very difficult

To tighten, just click with one tool, easy. To loosen. Need to hold the lock out of the way and turn using 2 tools

I don’t think that works for toyota. But, lots of toyota models have a rear access so you don’t have to take the wheels off. Just jack up in neutral and adjust until you can spin 5 rotations before it stops. Easy.

That is the common method, and works most of the time when not trying to tighten them on purpose. Typically, when the wheel is rotating in reverse, and then nrakes are applied, the shoes move the little metal piece, which in turn moves the ratchet star about one notch. This little adjuster is designed to spin the star only when the brakes are loose. When the brakes are tight, there is less movement of the shoes when braking in reverse. That reduced movement (or slop) in the brake shoes is insufficient to move the click-lever enough to turn the star adjuster any more. As the brakes wear, they become looser, and then backing and braking will cause thwm to move enough to rotate the click-lever, which rotates the star and tightens the brakes to their optimum fit. Again, that's the plan... When I learned to adjust drum brakes, it usually was a two-step dance after a brake job: Install brakes. 1. Lift car on hoist, or jack it up in back. Make sure BOTH FRONT TIRES are wedge-chocked so it can't roll forward or back. 2. Make sure emergency brake is off. 3. Remove the oval rubber plug in the brake mounting plate (far side of the drum) with wheel and tire mounted. Stop when mild scraping is heard and slight drag is felt. 2. Take vehicle for test drive, using brakes several times. (Backing up is not required here) 3. Jack up and block car so you don't get crushed, and spin tire. Listen and feel for brake pad to be scraping slightly on drum. 4. Adjust shoes again by rotating the star until slight scraping is heard and felt between shoes and drum? and you're good to go! 5. Replace rubber plug in brake mounting plate, make sure wheel and tire are on securely, remove from lift and chocks, and put tools away.

There is, but it is difficult to see, or know what you are attempting to do inside. This is why I show you with the drum off to explain what to do with the drum on through the hole.

Too missing an o

@@paulkelley86 video still dark thank u...

@@paulkelley86 do you know if this would work for a 2001 model Toyota Echo? It seems to have no provision for any adjustment?