How many times have you had to adjust your wastegate so far? Have you noticed the voltage being higher or lower more often? I look forward to hearing your responses!

Best video I’ve seen yet and I’ve watched a lot of these. This video isvery informative and walks you step by step so it leaves no room for error. Great job

I haven’t seen many sensors you have to adjust since obd1. I love doing voltage adjustments. Good job making this known

thanks for the video, very useful. Note an E-Clip 5/16 works as a replacement if you lose the original clip.

Your awesome teacher when it comes to working on cars

Man, I have the cousin to this car the Hyundai Sonata 2.0 and although I do love her model year look with the sleek curvy swoopy coup, and interior blue lighting, I think I like the optimas overall look better than my sonata. I'm jealous

Great help. Thank you so much !!!!

I wish I had seen a video of when you replaced the turbo. I'm going to see if you did one. Fitting that 12" round hole into 7" square hole was quite, let's say, a challenge. Anyway, I am curious. I just did a turbo swap on my wife's 2012 Optima EX because I thought the code it threw (P259f) said it was bad... Coinciding with a low-oil incident we had a week earlier which threw the same code. A nieve assumption based on minimal definition on P259f out there. Considering it drove a week between each incident just fine, I assumed an oil-starvation issue. I was very surprised when the turbo spun freely when I got it out. But I wasn't about to wrestle the old one back in. By God! It Was Bad! And even if it's not - that new one is going back in. Money be danged. So, new turbo, which came with a new actuator, measured 1.23 volts after not fixing P259f. Honestly, as your video exhibited, I may have had the engine running and not in accessory mode as you explain. And I am not sure if that has an effect on the reading. So will reassess in the morning in lieu of expecting an answer by then, if at all. Anyway, I am curious what your new turbo setup read when installed? Mine had all the joints dabbed with paint, which (to me) said "We preset this in the factory and you should not need to adjust this." But clearly, you did. So yeah, curious. Thanks, if you can.

Well explained! Thanks so much

Great video thank you very much 💪💪

I want to post another comment. I've already offered my appreciation for this video elsewhere. I want to offer some clarity for the content of this video, in hopes - if you were like me - it's helps you with my hindsight. 1) I was experiencing a P259f code which led me to believe my turbo was bad. I believe it was failing. 2) I changed the entire turbo, but, when asked, Blue Glove commented to he chose the installation of just the cartridge, which (trust me) I wish I would have done instead. Didn't know. If your turbo is dead (bearings, vane issue), a cartridge replacement will likely be 50-times easier. Ask me how I know. 3) my replacement turbo came with exhaust manifold, turbo, and wastegate actuator, the latter of which Blue Glove is adjusting in this video. My voltage on a new unit was about 3.68 volts and I needed to adjust it. The car was still throwing a P259f code after installation of new turbo. 4) Blue Glove shows removing the clip acuating the waste gate side, but in my opinion I would suggest loosening the lock nut on the left side of the rod, as shown, but instead of popping that clip, which is in a tight spot and not the easiest thing to hook and remove... Instead loosen and remove the 10mm lock nut on the actuator motor lever, and once removed rotate the rod from there. When you're done making your adjustment - reattach the actuator nut handbtight and tighten the rod lock-nut to verify your test reading. Way easier than clipping and unclipping that small clip between tests. NOTE: Only precaution here is to maintain the spring and washer when you remove that nut from the actuator (don't let it eject). Just remove the nut (pass nut to right hand while holding the rod still hard against the actuator) slowly pull away the lever watching that the spring and washer stay put, quickly turn the rod, and reinstall the rod, followed by reinstalling actuator nut (hand tight), then tighten the other nut to firm up adjusted rod length. I left the actuator nut only hand-tight until I was satisfied with the voltage reading, so as to minimize the wear on the Nylock nut. When satisfied with the voltage be sure to tighten both the actuator nut and the rod length lock nut. 5) there is a body-to-engine ground strap just behind the passenger side motor mount - ideal for making a good ground point for the volt meter. Battery is good too, as shown. Hope this helps someone.

Great video. Will any generic scan tool have the ability to read waste gate voltage?

Which model Foxwell tool are you using?

Do you have video of turbo R and R

And what does it do to the car? More power?

I don't have a yellow wire. I have blue, grey, red, pink, grey and white. Any suggestions where to plug into

my 2.0t kia turbo looks nothing like this. The arm is on top and easy to get to, the plug is underneath and a pain to get to. the voltage at the yellow wire reads 1.83.

I cant seem to get mine past 1 volt no matter what i do, any ideas?

I made the rod longer to decrease the voltage but instead it increased the voltage more and threw a code 😭

I keep adjusting it over and over it seems to be exactly 4.0 and the check engine light still comes back over and over again wtf could it be

It’s much easier to adjust voltage on the actuator side instead of the waste gate side of the rod (I.e. taking rod off at actuator, loosening nut on rod on waste gate side, turning clockwise to reduce voltage/counter clockwise to increase voltage)